old fenwick rod

[Dan]

I need some help from you fly fishers out there. I want to try to take up
again fly fishing for trout. I have a rod I bought for the purpose when I
was a kid. It's a cheap 30 year old Fenwick rod, made, I believe from glass
fibre. It is 8 1/2 feet long and says AFTM 7 on it. I assume this means its
"weight" is 7? My question is, would this be a reasonable rod to try fly
fishing again after doing it perhaps half a dozen times in Scotland as a kid
30 years ago? Opinions on this would be useful. I also need suggestions as
to what might be an appropriate reel to buy to use with it. Do I need to buy
a reel of a matching weight? I was thinking of maybe an LL Bean
"Streamlight" or an Orvis "Clearwater" or "Rocky Mountain" (These last are
now on sale.) Do any of these sound reasonable?

Just to make matters harder, I have no idea yet where I am going to fish. I
am located now in Southern California and know nothing about the
possibilities for trout fishing here, so opinions on where I might start
would also be welcome. As a kid I fished small rivers and lochs in Scotland
and I think I would like to do something similar. Northern California is a
possibility. I am somehow (and I dont want to knock anyone else's pleasure)
against sitting in a boat reeling in trout after trout in a lake that will
be restocked the minute I have gone home for the day. What I remember liking
about it as a kid was that the fishing was but one part of a whole day spent
in the wilderness with few people around.

This no doubt all sounds rather woolly, for which my apologies. I would be
genuinely grateful for any practical advice.

Dan Hugh-Jones

[Bill Kiene]

Hi Dan,

I sold that rod and own them too. That was on of the best casting sizes
Fenwick made in those days. Today for trout we use mostly 4, 5 and 6 weight
rods, but your rod is fairly soft and will work for lots of fly fishing in
California.

I would buy a little larger size reel that is for a # 7 line rod and all the
ones you mentioned would be fine.

I would spend some money like ~$50US for a good new WF7F.

There are lots of fly fishing clubs and good fly shops in California for
help.

--
Bill Kiene

Kiene's Fly Shop
Sacramento, CA
www.kiene.com

"Dan" <lose > wrote in message
...
> I need some help from you fly fishers out there. I want to try to take up
> again fly fishing for trout. I have a rod I bought for the purpose when I
> was a kid. It's a cheap 30 year old Fenwick rod, made, I believe from
glass
> fibre. It is 8 1/2 feet long and says AFTM 7 on it. I assume this means
its
> "weight" is 7? My question is, would this be a reasonable rod to try fly
> fishing again after doing it perhaps half a dozen times in Scotland as a
kid
> 30 years ago? Opinions on this would be useful. I also need suggestions as
> to what might be an appropriate reel to buy to use with it. Do I need to
buy
> a reel of a matching weight? I was thinking of maybe an LL Bean
> "Streamlight" or an Orvis "Clearwater" or "Rocky Mountain" (These last are
> now on sale.) Do any of these sound reasonable?
>
> Just to make matters harder, I have no idea yet where I am going to fish.
I
> am located now in Southern California and know nothing about the
> possibilities for trout fishing here, so opinions on where I might start
> would also be welcome. As a kid I fished small rivers and lochs in
Scotland
> and I think I would like to do something similar. Northern California is a
> possibility. I am somehow (and I dont want to knock anyone else's
pleasure)
> against sitting in a boat reeling in trout after trout in a lake that will
> be restocked the minute I have gone home for the day. What I remember
liking
> about it as a kid was that the fishing was but one part of a whole day
spent
> in the wilderness with few people around.
>
> This no doubt all sounds rather woolly, for which my apologies. I would be
> genuinely grateful for any practical advice.
>
> Dan Hugh-Jones
>
>

[asadi]

Well, if you only, exclusively, fish for trout fine. Just go ahead and talk
that way. But, if you think that trout are the only fish you can pursue with
a fly rod....well...you could fish for just about anything with that rod.

ditto what Bill said on the quality line and slightly larger reel.
Personally, I'd get a Cabelas Cahill II model two reel or a Plueger 1495 or
1595 RC . . . nice and cheap they are. That Pfleuger will seem kinda heavy
tho'...but I like that on an older fiberglass rod...I'm weird.

I'd buy a quality line, two or three leaders (8 or 9 feet 5 X) and a roll of
tippet material.....say 5x from one of the guys here.

I like Cortland lines 'cause they mostly come with that little cleaning
patch for your line.

Then I'd look around for a fly shop that has some rather scruffy looking
individuals that are constantly hanging around and drinking coffee. I'd go
in there and ask them to put the line on the reel with some backing. And
buy some flies. Flies for all kinds of fish.

And if this sounds rather wooly, I'd get some wooly buggers too, got to have
wooly buggers. Big ones and little ones, skinny ones and fat ones, oh how
they wiggle and squirm.

And then I'd look for some City Parks with sunfish (bream) in them to
practice my casting . . .the heck with those tree lined streams for
learning.

.....got up early and made Impossible Bacon Pie for the little girl's
breakfast...came out pretty good....john

[Dan]

Bill,

Thanks for your advice. I have (of course) a few more questions. When you
say a little larger size reel, what do you mean larger? Larger than what
exactly? Larger than #7? Could I get your opinion on the reels I mentioned,
viz Orvis "Clearwater" and "Rocky Mountain" and the LL Bean "Streamlight"?

I assume WF7F is a kind of line? I know there are all kinds of lines and I
have no idea which would be appropriate for whatever kind of fishing I end
up doing. I guess I need to buy a book and do some research.

In reference to the rod, I was doing some reading of old ROFF posts and saw
references to some old brown Fenwick fiberglass rods that were meant to be
pretty decent. Mine however would be bottom of the line. I bought it in a
local sporting good store when I was nine (and I would be surprised if it
cost more than $30. It was rebadged for Milbro and is amber in colour and
looks to be of low quality construction. OTOH, after 30 years nothing seems
to have perished at least.

Finally, is there trout fishing in Sequoia National Park, do you happen to
know? I go there quite a lot.

Thanks for listening,

Dan


"Bill Kiene" > wrote in message
m...
> Hi Dan,
>
> I sold that rod and own them too. That was on of the best casting sizes
> Fenwick made in those days. Today for trout we use mostly 4, 5 and 6
weight
> rods, but your rod is fairly soft and will work for lots of fly fishing in
> California.
>
> I would buy a little larger size reel that is for a # 7 line rod and all
the
> ones you mentioned would be fine.
>
> I would spend some money like ~$50US for a good new WF7F.
>
> There are lots of fly fishing clubs and good fly shops in California for
> help.
>
> --
> Bill Kiene
>
> Kiene's Fly Shop
> Sacramento, CA
> www.kiene.com
>
> "Dan" <lose > wrote in message
> ...
> > I need some help from you fly fishers out there. I want to try to take
up
> > again fly fishing for trout. I have a rod I bought for the purpose when
I
> > was a kid. It's a cheap 30 year old Fenwick rod, made, I believe from
> glass
> > fibre. It is 8 1/2 feet long and says AFTM 7 on it. I assume this means
> its
> > "weight" is 7? My question is, would this be a reasonable rod to try fly
> > fishing again after doing it perhaps half a dozen times in Scotland as a
> kid
> > 30 years ago? Opinions on this would be useful. I also need suggestions
as
> > to what might be an appropriate reel to buy to use with it. Do I need to
> buy
> > a reel of a matching weight? I was thinking of maybe an LL Bean
> > "Streamlight" or an Orvis "Clearwater" or "Rocky Mountain" (These last
are
> > now on sale.) Do any of these sound reasonable?
> >
> > Just to make matters harder, I have no idea yet where I am going to
fish.
> I
> > am located now in Southern California and know nothing about the
> > possibilities for trout fishing here, so opinions on where I might start
> > would also be welcome. As a kid I fished small rivers and lochs in
> Scotland
> > and I think I would like to do something similar. Northern California is
a
> > possibility. I am somehow (and I dont want to knock anyone else's
> pleasure)
> > against sitting in a boat reeling in trout after trout in a lake that
will
> > be restocked the minute I have gone home for the day. What I remember
> liking
> > about it as a kid was that the fishing was but one part of a whole day
> spent
> > in the wilderness with few people around.
> >
> > This no doubt all sounds rather woolly, for which my apologies. I would
be
> > genuinely grateful for any practical advice.
> >
> > Dan Hugh-Jones
> >
> >
>
>

[Tim J.]

"Dan" wrote...

<snip>
> I assume WF7F is a kind of line? I know there are all kinds of lines and I
> have no idea which would be appropriate for whatever kind of fishing I end
> up doing. I guess I need to buy a book and do some research.

Ding, ding, ding! A winnah!

'Though a book (or two or three) is best, here's a good website for some of the
basics: http://www.flyanglersonline.com/begin/101/
--
HTH,
Tim
------------------------
http://css.sbcma.com/timj

[Ernie]

Dan,
I still have a Fenwich Ferrulite which is a great old rod. Eight and a
half feet is a bit long and seven weight is a bit heavy for trout fishing.
Since you need a reel and line I think I would look at Hook & Hackle's or
Cabela,s on line catalog for an economical eight foot four or five weight
combo. Cortland makes economic good lines. The line weight should match
the Rod. Reels only need to be big enough to hold the line.
There is some trout fishing up by Big Bear, but most fly fishermen from
Los Angeles go to the Eastern Sierras by Mammoth Lakes. There are many good
places to fly fish there.
Ernie

"Dan" <lose > wrote in message
...
> I need some help from you fly fishers out there. I want to try to take up
> again fly fishing for trout. I have a rod I bought for the purpose when I
> was a kid. It's a cheap 30 year old Fenwick rod, made, I believe from
glass
> fibre. It is 8 1/2 feet long and says AFTM 7 on it. I assume this means
its
> "weight" is 7? My question is, would this be a reasonable rod to try fly
> fishing again after doing it perhaps half a dozen times in Scotland as a
kid
> 30 years ago? Opinions on this would be useful. I also need suggestions as
> to what might be an appropriate reel to buy to use with it. Do I need to
buy
> a reel of a matching weight? I was thinking of maybe an LL Bean
> Dan Hugh-Jones

[Bill Kiene]

Dan,

Just get the largest Orvis "Clear Water" or "Rocky Mountain" fly reel which
is the #IV for a #7/8 rod.

Probably the best deal on a fly line for your rod is a WF7F Cortland 444
(Peach colored) line or an SA/Mastery "Head Start" line. Getting a good fly
line is the most important part of the deal. Normally you will have to spend
over $30 for this and the "top of the line" is about $50 - $60US.

If you buy the reel on sale on the Internet, you can take your old rod and
the new reel to a good fly shop and get a good fly line from them and have
them install it properly for you. They can get the right amount of quality
small diameter 20# braided Dacron/Micron line on the reel with nice knots
for connections too. All well run fly shops can be a lot of help to people
getting started. If they don't seem interested in you and your old Fenwick,
just keep looking till you find a good fly shop.

Lastly, your Fenwick fiberglass fly rod was one of the best brands of fly
rods in it's day and they did not have different price levels so yours is
the same as all the rest and a good fly rod. They were mostly all sold at
discounted price through the discount stores in those days so they were
about $37.50???

Fenwick was started and owned by Don Green. He sold it to Berkeley Company
and then moved on to start the Sage Rod Company. Now you know the rest of
the story.

--
Bill Kiene

Kiene's Fly Shop
Sacramento, CA
www.kiene.com

"Dan" <lose > wrote in message
...

> Bill,
>
> Thanks for your advice. I have (of course) a few more questions. When you
> say a little larger size reel, what do you mean larger? Larger than what
> exactly? Larger than #7? Could I get your opinion on the reels I
mentioned,
> viz Orvis "Clearwater" and "Rocky Mountain" and the LL Bean "Streamlight"?
>
> I assume WF7F is a kind of line? I know there are all kinds of lines and I
> have no idea which would be appropriate for whatever kind of fishing I end
> up doing. I guess I need to buy a book and do some research.
>
> In reference to the rod, I was doing some reading of old ROFF posts and
saw
> references to some old brown Fenwick fiberglass rods that were meant to be
> pretty decent. Mine however would be bottom of the line. I bought it in a
> local sporting good store when I was nine (and I would be surprised if it
> cost more than $30. It was rebadged for Milbro and is amber in colour and
> looks to be of low quality construction. OTOH, after 30 years nothing
seems
> to have perished at least.
>
> Finally, is there trout fishing in Sequoia National Park, do you happen to
> know? I go there quite a lot.
>
> Thanks for listening,
>
> Dan
>
>
> "Bill Kiene" > wrote in message
> m...
> > Hi Dan,
> >
> > I sold that rod and own them too. That was on of the best casting sizes
> > Fenwick made in those days. Today for trout we use mostly 4, 5 and 6
> weight
> > rods, but your rod is fairly soft and will work for lots of fly fishing
in
> > California.
> >
> > I would buy a little larger size reel that is for a # 7 line rod and all
> the
> > ones you mentioned would be fine.
> >
> > I would spend some money like ~$50US for a good new WF7F.
> >
> > There are lots of fly fishing clubs and good fly shops in California for
> > help.
> >
> > --
> > Bill Kiene
> >
> > Kiene's Fly Shop
> > Sacramento, CA
> > www.kiene.com
> >
> > "Dan" <lose > wrote in message
> > ...
> > > I need some help from you fly fishers out there. I want to try to take
> up
> > > again fly fishing for trout. I have a rod I bought for the purpose
when
> I
> > > was a kid. It's a cheap 30 year old Fenwick rod, made, I believe from
> > glass
> > > fibre. It is 8 1/2 feet long and says AFTM 7 on it. I assume this
means
> > its
> > > "weight" is 7? My question is, would this be a reasonable rod to try
fly
> > > fishing again after doing it perhaps half a dozen times in Scotland as
a
> > kid
> > > 30 years ago? Opinions on this would be useful. I also need
suggestions
> as
> > > to what might be an appropriate reel to buy to use with it. Do I need
to
> > buy
> > > a reel of a matching weight? I was thinking of maybe an LL Bean
> > > "Streamlight" or an Orvis "Clearwater" or "Rocky Mountain" (These last
> are
> > > now on sale.) Do any of these sound reasonable?
> > >
> > > Just to make matters harder, I have no idea yet where I am going to
> fish.
> > I
> > > am located now in Southern California and know nothing about the
> > > possibilities for trout fishing here, so opinions on where I might
start
> > > would also be welcome. As a kid I fished small rivers and lochs in
> > Scotland
> > > and I think I would like to do something similar. Northern California
is
> a
> > > possibility. I am somehow (and I dont want to knock anyone else's
> > pleasure)
> > > against sitting in a boat reeling in trout after trout in a lake that
> will
> > > be restocked the minute I have gone home for the day. What I remember
> > liking
> > > about it as a kid was that the fishing was but one part of a whole day
> > spent
> > > in the wilderness with few people around.
> > >
> > > This no doubt all sounds rather woolly, for which my apologies. I
would
> be
> > > genuinely grateful for any practical advice.
> > >
> > > Dan Hugh-Jones
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

[Bill Kiene]

Asadi,

You got it right on the money.

Nice to see someone that really cares about this guy.

We get people in all the time with old outfits. We just tune them up a bit
if it is workable so they can get started. It might mean straightening the
tip top with pliers so the line will shoot through better, just putting on a
little backing, some knots and a leader, tippet and a few flies. Then if we
are not too busy, we take them out side for a few minutes to give them a
quickie casting lesson for free. It is amazing how many of these people turn
into long term customers and/or send us lots of people they meet for help.

--
Bill Kiene

Kiene's Fly Shop
Sacramento, CA
www.kiene.com

"asadi" > wrote in message
...
> Well, if you only, exclusively, fish for trout fine. Just go ahead and
talk
> that way. But, if you think that trout are the only fish you can pursue
with
> a fly rod....well...you could fish for just about anything with that rod.
>
> ditto what Bill said on the quality line and slightly larger reel.
> Personally, I'd get a Cabelas Cahill II model two reel or a Plueger 1495
or
> 1595 RC . . . nice and cheap they are. That Pfleuger will seem kinda
heavy
> tho'...but I like that on an older fiberglass rod...I'm weird.
>
> I'd buy a quality line, two or three leaders (8 or 9 feet 5 X) and a roll
of
> tippet material.....say 5x from one of the guys here.
>
> I like Cortland lines 'cause they mostly come with that little cleaning
> patch for your line.
>
> Then I'd look around for a fly shop that has some rather scruffy looking
> individuals that are constantly hanging around and drinking coffee. I'd go
> in there and ask them to put the line on the reel with some backing. And
> buy some flies. Flies for all kinds of fish.
>
> And if this sounds rather wooly, I'd get some wooly buggers too, got to
have
> wooly buggers. Big ones and little ones, skinny ones and fat ones, oh how
> they wiggle and squirm.
>
> And then I'd look for some City Parks with sunfish (bream) in them to
> practice my casting . . .the heck with those tree lined streams for
> learning.
>
> ....got up early and made Impossible Bacon Pie for the little girl's
> breakfast...came out pretty good....john
>
>

[rb608]

"Bill Kiene" > wrote in message
> We get people in all the time with old outfits. We just tune them up a bit
> if it is workable so they can get started. It might mean straightening the
> tip top with pliers so the line will shoot through better, just putting on
a
> little backing, some knots and a leader, tippet and a few flies. Then if
we
> are not too busy, we take them out side for a few minutes to give them a
> quickie casting lesson for free. It is amazing how many of these people
turn
> into long term customers and/or send us lots of people they meet for help.

That describes almost exactly my entrance to the sport. I walked into a
shop carrying an old hand-me-down HI fiberglass rod with a mashed tip top,
knowing little to nothing about what I was getting into. A new tip top and
a few minutes out back with the rod to determine the weight, and I was a new
flyfisherman with a 6 wt. line on a new Cortland Rimfly reel. A quick
casting lesson, a little advice, a few basic flies, & I was ready for the
river. Caught a trout on my first trip. I've been a loyal customer there
ever since.

Joe F.

[Tim J.]

"rb608" wrote...
>
> "Bill Kiene" > wrote in message
> > We get people in all the time with old outfits. We just tune them up a bit
> > if it is workable so they can get started. It might mean straightening the
> > tip top with pliers so the line will shoot through better, just putting on
> a
> > little backing, some knots and a leader, tippet and a few flies. Then if
> we
> > are not too busy, we take them out side for a few minutes to give them a
> > quickie casting lesson for free. It is amazing how many of these people
> turn
> > into long term customers and/or send us lots of people they meet for help.
>
> That describes almost exactly my entrance to the sport. I walked into a
> shop carrying an old hand-me-down HI fiberglass rod with a mashed tip top,
> knowing little to nothing about what I was getting into. A new tip top and
> a few minutes out back with the rod to determine the weight, and I was a new
> flyfisherman with a 6 wt. line on a new Cortland Rimfly reel. A quick
> casting lesson, a little advice, a few basic flies, & I was ready for the
> river. Caught a trout on my first trip. I've been a loyal customer there
> ever since.

Some people in business underestimate that service aspect. If you can help set
someone down the right path to get what they want / need, sometimes even if it
means sending them to a competitor, that service is not soon forgotten. I buy my
heating oil from a local company for the same reason and refuse to even shop
anywhere else.
--
TL,
Tim
------------------------
http://css.sbcma.com/timj

[Dan]

Bill,

I am going to do as you suggest: order a reel online, and then look for a
local shop for line and more advice.

I am still a bit confused about which size reel to buy. You said, "get the
largest Orvis "Clear Water" or "Rocky Mountain" fly reel which is the #IV
for a #7/8 rod."

Well, the "Rocky Mountain" reel comes in

a) 3/4, line wts. 2-5

b) 5/6, line wts. 4-7

c) 7/8, line wts. 6-9

Are you saying I should buy the 3/4 or the 5/6? I would have thought the 5/6
since my rod is a 7, but you are the expert and I may have it all backwards.

Again, thanks a million to you and to everyone else who has chimed in.

Dan










"Bill Kiene" > wrote in message
.. .
> Dan,
>
> Just get the largest Orvis "Clear Water" or "Rocky Mountain" fly reel
which
> is the #IV for a #7/8 rod.
>
> Probably the best deal on a fly line for your rod is a WF7F Cortland 444
> (Peach colored) line or an SA/Mastery "Head Start" line. Getting a good
fly
> line is the most important part of the deal. Normally you will have to
spend
> over $30 for this and the "top of the line" is about $50 - $60US.
>
> If you buy the reel on sale on the Internet, you can take your old rod and
> the new reel to a good fly shop and get a good fly line from them and have
> them install it properly for you. They can get the right amount of quality
> small diameter 20# braided Dacron/Micron line on the reel with nice knots
> for connections too. All well run fly shops can be a lot of help to people
> getting started. If they don't seem interested in you and your old
Fenwick,
> just keep looking till you find a good fly shop.
>
> Lastly, your Fenwick fiberglass fly rod was one of the best brands of fly
> rods in it's day and they did not have different price levels so yours is
> the same as all the rest and a good fly rod. They were mostly all sold at
> discounted price through the discount stores in those days so they were
> about $37.50???
>
> Fenwick was started and owned by Don Green. He sold it to Berkeley Company
> and then moved on to start the Sage Rod Company. Now you know the rest of
> the story.
>
> --
> Bill Kiene
>
> Kiene's Fly Shop
> Sacramento, CA
> www.kiene.com

[George Adams]

>I am still a bit confused about which size reel to buy. You said, "get the
>largest Orvis "Clear Water" or "Rocky Mountain" fly reel which is the #IV
>for a #7/8 rod."
>

>Well, the "Rocky Mountain" reel comes in
>
>a) 3/4, line wts. 2-5
>
>b) 5/6, line wts. 4-7
>
>c) 7/8, line wts. 6-9
>

>
>Are you saying I should buy the 3/4 or the 5/6? I would have thought the 5/6
>since my rod is a 7, but you are the expert and I may have it all backwards.
>

Dan, go for the 7/8. It will allow you to use a decent amount of backing. The
guy you buy the line from should be able set it up properly. The 5/6 will take
a 7 wt WF line, but with minimal backing, and if you later on decide to use a
double taper line, you'll be screwed, as it likely won't fit on the smaller
reel.


George Adams

"All good fishermen stay young until they die, for fishing is the only dream of
youth that doth not grow stale with age."
---- J.W Muller

[Bill Kiene]

Dan,

I would get the largest one, the 7/8. It was called a size # IV too.

3/4 was also called a size "II"

5/6 was a "III"

7/8 was a "IV" (get this one).

Sorry for the confusion.

--
Bill Kiene

Kiene's Fly Shop
Sacramento, CA
www.kiene.com

"Dan" <lose > wrote in message
...
> Bill,
>
> I am going to do as you suggest: order a reel online, and then look for a
> local shop for line and more advice.
>
> I am still a bit confused about which size reel to buy. You said, "get the
> largest Orvis "Clear Water" or "Rocky Mountain" fly reel which is the #IV
> for a #7/8 rod."
>
> Well, the "Rocky Mountain" reel comes in
>
> a) 3/4, line wts. 2-5
>
> b) 5/6, line wts. 4-7
>
> c) 7/8, line wts. 6-9
>
> Are you saying I should buy the 3/4 or the 5/6? I would have thought the
5/6
> since my rod is a 7, but you are the expert and I may have it all
backwards.
>
> Again, thanks a million to you and to everyone else who has chimed in.
>
> Dan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> "Bill Kiene" > wrote in message
> .. .
> > Dan,
> >
> > Just get the largest Orvis "Clear Water" or "Rocky Mountain" fly reel
> which
> > is the #IV for a #7/8 rod.
> >
> > Probably the best deal on a fly line for your rod is a WF7F Cortland 444
> > (Peach colored) line or an SA/Mastery "Head Start" line. Getting a good
> fly
> > line is the most important part of the deal. Normally you will have to
> spend
> > over $30 for this and the "top of the line" is about $50 - $60US.
> >
> > If you buy the reel on sale on the Internet, you can take your old rod
and
> > the new reel to a good fly shop and get a good fly line from them and
have
> > them install it properly for you. They can get the right amount of
quality
> > small diameter 20# braided Dacron/Micron line on the reel with nice
knots
> > for connections too. All well run fly shops can be a lot of help to
people
> > getting started. If they don't seem interested in you and your old
> Fenwick,
> > just keep looking till you find a good fly shop.
> >
> > Lastly, your Fenwick fiberglass fly rod was one of the best brands of
fly
> > rods in it's day and they did not have different price levels so yours
is
> > the same as all the rest and a good fly rod. They were mostly all sold
at
> > discounted price through the discount stores in those days so they were
> > about $37.50???
> >
> > Fenwick was started and owned by Don Green. He sold it to Berkeley
Company
> > and then moved on to start the Sage Rod Company. Now you know the rest
of
> > the story.
> >
> > --
> > Bill Kiene
> >
> > Kiene's Fly Shop
> > Sacramento, CA
> > www.kiene.com
>
>

[Dan]

Thanks Bill. But I have another question. I have been studying up on the
internet and it seems that your choice of fish determines your line weight,
which in turn determines your rod and reel weight. So, my old rod is a seven
and you are suggesting I get a reel to match and therefore, I assume, a 7
weight line also. My question is, will that not lock me in to fishing for
large fish, like salmon or steel head? All the webpages I have read suggest
4 or 5 weight lines/rods/reels for trout. Does this mean I will need a new
rod if I want to end up fishing for trout?

Dan

p.s. I wish your shop was in Los Angeles where I am. I would be in there
tomorrow.



"Bill Kiene" > wrote in message
...
> Dan,
>
> I would get the largest one, the 7/8. It was called a size # IV too.
>
> 3/4 was also called a size "II"
>
> 5/6 was a "III"
>
> 7/8 was a "IV" (get this one).
>
> Sorry for the confusion.
>
> --
> Bill Kiene
>
> Kiene's Fly Shop
> Sacramento, CA
> www.kiene.com
>
> "Dan" <lose > wrote in message
> ...
> > Bill,
> >
> > I am going to do as you suggest: order a reel online, and then look for
a
> > local shop for line and more advice.
> >
> > I am still a bit confused about which size reel to buy. You said, "get
the
> > largest Orvis "Clear Water" or "Rocky Mountain" fly reel which is the
#IV
> > for a #7/8 rod."
> >
> > Well, the "Rocky Mountain" reel comes in
> >
> > a) 3/4, line wts. 2-5
> >
> > b) 5/6, line wts. 4-7
> >
> > c) 7/8, line wts. 6-9
> >
> > Are you saying I should buy the 3/4 or the 5/6? I would have thought the
> 5/6
> > since my rod is a 7, but you are the expert and I may have it all
> backwards.
> >
> > Again, thanks a million to you and to everyone else who has chimed in.
> >
> > Dan
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Bill Kiene" > wrote in message
> > .. .
> > > Dan,
> > >
> > > Just get the largest Orvis "Clear Water" or "Rocky Mountain" fly reel
> > which
> > > is the #IV for a #7/8 rod.
> > >
> > > Probably the best deal on a fly line for your rod is a WF7F Cortland
444
> > > (Peach colored) line or an SA/Mastery "Head Start" line. Getting a
good
> > fly
> > > line is the most important part of the deal. Normally you will have to
> > spend
> > > over $30 for this and the "top of the line" is about $50 - $60US.
> > >
> > > If you buy the reel on sale on the Internet, you can take your old rod
> and
> > > the new reel to a good fly shop and get a good fly line from them and
> have
> > > them install it properly for you. They can get the right amount of
> quality
> > > small diameter 20# braided Dacron/Micron line on the reel with nice
> knots
> > > for connections too. All well run fly shops can be a lot of help to
> people
> > > getting started. If they don't seem interested in you and your old
> > Fenwick,
> > > just keep looking till you find a good fly shop.
> > >
> > > Lastly, your Fenwick fiberglass fly rod was one of the best brands of
> fly
> > > rods in it's day and they did not have different price levels so yours
> is
> > > the same as all the rest and a good fly rod. They were mostly all sold
> at
> > > discounted price through the discount stores in those days so they
were
> > > about $37.50???
> > >
> > > Fenwick was started and owned by Don Green. He sold it to Berkeley
> Company
> > > and then moved on to start the Sage Rod Company. Now you know the rest
> of
> > > the story.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Bill Kiene
> > >
> > > Kiene's Fly Shop
> > > Sacramento, CA
> > > www.kiene.com
> >
> >
>
>

[Tim J.]

"Dan" wrote...
> Thanks Bill. But I have another question. I have been studying up on the
> internet and it seems that your choice of fish determines your line weight,
> which in turn determines your rod and reel weight. So, my old rod is a seven
> and you are suggesting I get a reel to match and therefore, I assume, a 7
> weight line also. My question is, will that not lock me in to fishing for
> large fish, like salmon or steel head? All the webpages I have read suggest
> 4 or 5 weight lines/rods/reels for trout. Does this mean I will need a new
> rod if I want to end up fishing for trout?

There's ALWAYS a reason to buy new gear! :) You can catch trout with 7WT just
fine. Someday, when you want a more delicate presentation, you'll want to go for
a lighter weight rod and reel.
--
TL,
Tim
http://css.sbcma.com/timj

[Mike]

Howdy Dan
Check wth Uncle Wally at ezflyfish.com he will set you up with reel
,backing,leader and tippet. He sells many kinds of reels from the inexpensive
to the very expensive but all are top quality and he will stand behind the
products he sells.....Just because it says 7 on it doesn't mean you have to put
a 7wt line on the rod you could get a reel and a couple spare spools one with
say 5wt line for trout and sunfish and one with 7wt line for steelhead and
salmon


Handyman Mike
Standing in a river waving a stick

[Brimbum]

Tim wrote:>There's ALWAYS a reason to buy new gear! :) You can catch trout
with 7WT
>just
>fine. Someday, when you want a more delicate presentation, you'll want to go
>for
>a lighter weight rod and reel

I have enjoyed this thread about the old Fenwick rod. The last rod I bought is
an old Fenwick that appears to be from the 60's. As my old friend michael used
to say"I never met a fiberglass rod I didn't like." This one works pretty good
with a 4WF line.

Big Dale

[Bill Kiene]

Dan,

We fish for trout with #4, 5 and 6 weight outfits with #5 being the top
choice.

You need to put a WF7F on your rod so it will perform properly.

Your fiberglass rod is softer than the new graphites rods so it will be fine
for trout to get you started into the sport.

Later on you could buy yourself a nice 8' #4 outfit for small trout streams
if you feel that would be good for you.

Some good friends of mine that guided in Alaska for years used that exact
fly rod for their number one rod of choice. Becuase it was a soft #7 they
could catch anything from Rainbows to Silver Salmon on it. It is one of the
best casting fiberglass rods ever made and is today still a fine fishing
tool.

Let us know how it goes and if you have more questions

--
Bill Kiene

Kiene's Fly Shop
Sacramento, CA
www.kiene.com

"Dan" <lose > wrote in message
...
> Thanks Bill. But I have another question. I have been studying up on the
> internet and it seems that your choice of fish determines your line
weight,
> which in turn determines your rod and reel weight. So, my old rod is a
seven
> and you are suggesting I get a reel to match and therefore, I assume, a 7
> weight line also. My question is, will that not lock me in to fishing for
> large fish, like salmon or steel head? All the webpages I have read
suggest
> 4 or 5 weight lines/rods/reels for trout. Does this mean I will need a new
> rod if I want to end up fishing for trout?
>
> Dan
>
> p.s. I wish your shop was in Los Angeles where I am. I would be in there
> tomorrow.
>
>
>
> "Bill Kiene" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Dan,
> >
> > I would get the largest one, the 7/8. It was called a size # IV too.
> >
> > 3/4 was also called a size "II"
> >
> > 5/6 was a "III"
> >
> > 7/8 was a "IV" (get this one).
> >
> > Sorry for the confusion.
> >
> > --
> > Bill Kiene
> >
> > Kiene's Fly Shop
> > Sacramento, CA
> > www.kiene.com
> >
> > "Dan" <lose > wrote in message
> > ...
> > > Bill,
> > >
> > > I am going to do as you suggest: order a reel online, and then look
for
> a
> > > local shop for line and more advice.
> > >
> > > I am still a bit confused about which size reel to buy. You said, "get
> the
> > > largest Orvis "Clear Water" or "Rocky Mountain" fly reel which is the
> #IV
> > > for a #7/8 rod."
> > >
> > > Well, the "Rocky Mountain" reel comes in
> > >
> > > a) 3/4, line wts. 2-5
> > >
> > > b) 5/6, line wts. 4-7
> > >
> > > c) 7/8, line wts. 6-9
> > >
> > > Are you saying I should buy the 3/4 or the 5/6? I would have thought
the
> > 5/6
> > > since my rod is a 7, but you are the expert and I may have it all
> > backwards.
> > >
> > > Again, thanks a million to you and to everyone else who has chimed in.
> > >
> > > Dan
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "Bill Kiene" > wrote in message
> > > .. .
> > > > Dan,
> > > >
> > > > Just get the largest Orvis "Clear Water" or "Rocky Mountain" fly
reel
> > > which
> > > > is the #IV for a #7/8 rod.
> > > >
> > > > Probably the best deal on a fly line for your rod is a WF7F Cortland
> 444
> > > > (Peach colored) line or an SA/Mastery "Head Start" line. Getting a
> good
> > > fly
> > > > line is the most important part of the deal. Normally you will have
to
> > > spend
> > > > over $30 for this and the "top of the line" is about $50 - $60US.
> > > >
> > > > If you buy the reel on sale on the Internet, you can take your old
rod
> > and
> > > > the new reel to a good fly shop and get a good fly line from them
and
> > have
> > > > them install it properly for you. They can get the right amount of
> > quality
> > > > small diameter 20# braided Dacron/Micron line on the reel with nice
> > knots
> > > > for connections too. All well run fly shops can be a lot of help to
> > people
> > > > getting started. If they don't seem interested in you and your old
> > > Fenwick,
> > > > just keep looking till you find a good fly shop.
> > > >
> > > > Lastly, your Fenwick fiberglass fly rod was one of the best brands
of
> > fly
> > > > rods in it's day and they did not have different price levels so
yours
> > is
> > > > the same as all the rest and a good fly rod. They were mostly all
sold
> > at
> > > > discounted price through the discount stores in those days so they
> were
> > > > about $37.50???
> > > >
> > > > Fenwick was started and owned by Don Green. He sold it to Berkeley
> > Company
> > > > and then moved on to start the Sage Rod Company. Now you know the
rest
> > of
> > > > the story.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Bill Kiene
> > > >
> > > > Kiene's Fly Shop
> > > > Sacramento, CA
> > > > www.kiene.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

[asadi]

I think I fished two years, with an old Pflueger 8 wt.

john

"Ernie" > wrote in message
m...
> Dan,
> I still have a Fenwich Ferrulite which is a great old rod. Eight and a
> half feet is a bit long and seven weight is a bit heavy for trout
fishing.
> Since you need a reel and line I think I would look at Hook & Hackle's or
> Cabela,s on line catalog for an economical eight foot four or five weight
> combo. Cortland makes economic good lines. The line weight should match
> the Rod. Reels only need to be big enough to hold the line.
> There is some trout fishing up by Big Bear, but most fly fishermen from
> Los Angeles go to the Eastern Sierras by Mammoth Lakes. There are many
good
> places to fly fish there.
> Ernie
>
> "Dan" <lose > wrote in message
> ...
> > I need some help from you fly fishers out there. I want to try to take
up
> > again fly fishing for trout. I have a rod I bought for the purpose when
I
> > was a kid. It's a cheap 30 year old Fenwick rod, made, I believe from
> glass
> > fibre. It is 8 1/2 feet long and says AFTM 7 on it. I assume this means
> its
> > "weight" is 7? My question is, would this be a reasonable rod to try fly
> > fishing again after doing it perhaps half a dozen times in Scotland as a
> kid
> > 30 years ago? Opinions on this would be useful. I also need suggestions
as
> > to what might be an appropriate reel to buy to use with it. Do I need to
> buy
> > a reel of a matching weight? I was thinking of maybe an LL Bean
> > Dan Hugh-Jones
>
>
>