Frog Fanny substitute

[Larry L]

Frog's Fanny is, imho, a great boon to the flat water fly fisher ( not so
flat, too ), but it is pricey.

I oscillate between wanting to support whoever is packaging it, because they
have improved my fishing and deserve support .... and wanting to find the
same stuff cheaper

I vaguely remember ( about the only type of remember I experience at my
age ) seeing something, somewhere, about the same material packaged for a
different market .... I'm not the least sure it was on ROFF, but if you know
of a different way to obtain this cool stuff ...let me know, please .....
and thank you, in advance

[Mike Connor]

"Larry L" > schrieb im Newsbeitrag
...
> Frog's Fanny is, imho, a great boon to the flat water fly fisher ( not so
> flat, too ), but it is pricey.
>
> I oscillate between wanting to support whoever is packaging it, because
they
> have improved my fishing and deserve support .... and wanting to find the
> same stuff cheaper
>
> I vaguely remember ( about the only type of remember I experience at my
> age ) seeing something, somewhere, about the same material packaged for a
> different market .... I'm not the least sure it was on ROFF, but if you
know
> of a different way to obtain this cool stuff ...let me know, please .....
> and thank you, in advance
>
>

This is basically a powdered desiccant. The following might be of help to
you;


Silica gel is an amorphous form of silicon dioxide, which is synthetically
produced in the form of hard irregular granules (having the appearance of
crystals) or hard irregular beads. A microporous structure of interlocking
cavities gives a very high surface area (800 square meters per gram). It is
this structure that makes silica gel a high capacity desiccant. Water
molecules adhere to the gels surface because it exhibits a lower vapour
pressure than the surrounding air.

When an equilibrium of equal pressure is reached, no more adsorption occurs.
Thus the higher the humidity of the surrounding air, the greater the amount
of water that is adsorbed before equilibrium is reached. It is in these
higher humidity conditions (above 50% Relative Humidity) that stored or
in-transit items are susceptible to damage.

The beauty of silica gel is the physical adsorption of water vapour into its
internal pores. There is no chemical reaction, no by-products or side
effects. Even when saturated with water vapour, silica gel still has the
appearance of a dry product, its shape unchanged.

Advantages of silica gel as a desiccant.

Silica gel has many other properties that recommend it as a desiccant.

- It will adsorb up to one third of its own weight in water vapour. This
adsorption efficiency is approximately 35% greater that typical desiccant
clays, making silica gel the preferred choice where weight or efficiency are
important factors.
- It has an almost indefinite shelf life if stored in airtight conditions.
- It can be regenerated and reused if required. Gently heating silica gel
will drive off the adsorbed moisture and leave it ready for reuse.
- It is a very inert material, it will not normally attack or corrode other
materials and with the exception of strong alkalis and hydrofluoric acid is
itself resistant to attack.
- It is non-toxic and non-flammable.
- It is most frequently and conveniently used packed in a breathable sachet
or bag. These are available in a wide range of sizes suitable for use with a
wide range of applications.

Standard white silica gel is referred to as being non-indicating. As it
adsorbs moisture it remains physically unchanged. Non-indicating silica gel
is both cheap and effective, available loose in bulk packs or packed in
sachets.

Self-indicating silica gels are coloured gels whose colour changes as they
adsorb moisture.


Silica gel, is often used in the packing of electronic equipment and
similar to prevent damage by condensation. It is usually in small paper
sachets in the packing boxes. If you ask at an electrical goods store or
similar they may be able to give you a whole load of it, as they just throw
it away.

Silica gel is in the form of small spheres usually, to use this as a fly
drying medium, just grind these up in a coffee grinder or similar, you can
also crush it with a hammer, and put in an airtight container such as a 35mm
film can. To dry your fly, just dip it in the powder and shake, the fly is
dry almost immediately.

It is not a good idea to use silica gel in fly-boxes, because the gel will
adsorb water from the surroundings, and may have the reverse effect to the
one desired, holding moisture in your box. The best policy is to ensure
your flies are perfectly dry before putting them back in the box. The best
way to do this is to get a small plastic film canister with a snap on lid.
Drill a series of holes with a small drill around the base, and around the
upper rim. Drill a hole in the lid, pass a cord through it and knot it, and
attach the other end to your vest or whatever. Used flies placed in this box
dry perfectly, and relatively quickly. You cannot lose the flies ( flies
tend to fall out of "drying-patches" and the like, especially barbless ones
! ), and your drying box may be emptied at the end of the day and the dry
flies returned to the main box. This is the best way to dry flies I have
yet discovered.

Goose grease, bacon fat, lard ( rendered beef fat), suet, ( rendered kidney
fat), and a host of other things will work as floatants. Palm oil (
cocoanut oil), which is sold in solid white blocks for cooking purposes, is
also an excellent natural floatant. One old guy I used to know in Yorkshire
dipped his dry flies in hot bacon fat, patted them dry on a soft cloth, and
used them quite successfully.

Preen gland oil from ducks ( although it has never been quite clear to me
how this is obtained) is an excellent floatant. ( Perhaps there are whole
tribes of "duck-milkers" wandering around? ).

Some newer chemical treatments actually repel water.

Silica gel, and some other drying crystals work well without floatants of
any kind.

Nowadays, one has even more problems with floatant, as it is unlikely that
you will find a river anywhere which is not contaminated with detergent.
This causes even tenacious floatants to be washed off very quickly indeed.

There are several principles involved here. The main aim of the exercise is
to prevent the flies getting wet. This may be achieved in several ways. The
most common one is to coat the fly with a substance which is immiscible with
water. But without clogging the hackles etc. Many oils work, but wash off
too quickly. Some thicker oils clog the hackles.

As soon as the hackle tips get wet, they start to penetrate the surface
film, and this accelerates the wetting process further, and eventually the
fly goes under. As we have quite a few fairly new subscribers here, it is
perhaps just as well to repeat another point. There is no point applying
floatant to a wet fly. It will sink. The fly is already wet, and applying
"floatant" to it will avail you nothing. Your only recourse is to dry it
carefully, and then re-apply floatant.

There is no floatant extant which will provide a fly with positive buoyancy.
If you read advertising blurb about floatant which says "Your flies float
like corks", then this is pure hyperbole, They are physically incapable of
doing anything of the sort, irrespective of whatever is plastered on them.

The only flies which float like corks, are made of cork, or similar
material, and in this case do not require floatant anyway.

One of the main reasons that top quality dry fly hackles were prized by
anglers, is the fact that these will stay afloat for quite a while without
any treatment at all. Hardly anybody tries this nowadays, but it works
exceedingly well. It requires a little more false casting to keep the
hackles dry, and a well slimed fly ( fish slime is probably one of the best
"sinkants" available), needs to be washed and dried before re-use. But it
works very well.

Quite a few people used thinned down varnish. This also stiffens hackles
somewhat, but can cause a terrible mess.

The first person to invent an intrinsically waterproof hackle will make a
fortune. It surprises me that firms like Hoffman etc, have not apparently
done much research in this area. It ought to be possible to breed a bird
whose hackles are more waterproof.

Adding scent to flies is not difficult. All sorts of things are now
available which would allow one to do this, and I have no doubt that some
people already do it. It rather defeats the object of fly-fishing though,
which is to fool a fish by presenting him with a lifelike visual copy of
whatever he happens to be feeding on. Adding scent to flies, brings in new
dimensions, which many will not agree with.

It may well be that a fish would take even a completely incorrect copy of a
fly, simply because it smelled good. This again, defeats much of the
objective for many.

TL
MC

[Mike Connor]

"Larry L" > schrieb im Newsbeitrag
...
> Frog's Fanny is, imho, a great boon to the flat water fly fisher ( not so
> flat, too ), but it is pricey.
>
> I oscillate between wanting to support whoever is packaging it, because
they
> have improved my fishing and deserve support .... and wanting to find the
> same stuff cheaper
>
> I vaguely remember ( about the only type of remember I experience at my
> age ) seeing something, somewhere, about the same material packaged for a
> different market .... I'm not the least sure it was on ROFF, but if you
know
> of a different way to obtain this cool stuff ...let me know, please .....
> and thank you, in advance
>
>


Silica gel is an amorphous form of silicon dioxide, which is synthetically
produced in the form of hard irregular granules (having the appearance of
crystals) or hard irregular beads. A microporous structure of interlocking
cavities gives a very high surface area (800 square meters per gram). It is
this structure that makes silica gel a high capacity desiccant. Water
molecules adhere to the gels surface because it exhibits a lower vapour
pressure than the surrounding air.

When an equilibrium of equal pressure is reached, no more adsorption occurs.
Thus the higher the humidity of the surrounding air, the greater the amount
of water that is adsorbed before equilibrium is reached. It is in these
higher humidity conditions (above 50% Relative Humidity) that stored or
in-transit items are susceptible to damage.

The beauty of silica gel is the physical adsorption of water vapour into its
internal pores. There is no chemical reaction, no by products or side
effects. Even when saturated with water vapour, silica gel still has the
appearance of a dry product, its shape unchanged.

Advantages of silica gel as a desiccant.

Silica gel has many other properties that recommend it as a desiccant.

- It will adsorb up to one third of its own weight in water vapour. This
adsorption efficiency is approximately 35% greater that typical desiccant
clays, making silica gel the preferred choice where weight or efficiency are
important factors.
- It has an almost indefinite shelf life if stored in airtight conditions.
- It can be regenerated and reused if required. Gently heating silica gel
will drive off the adsorbed moisture and leave it ready for reuse.
- It is a very inert material, it will not normally attack or corrode other
materials and with the exception of strong alkalis and hydrofluoric acid is
itself resistant to attack.
- It is non-toxic and non-flammable.
- It is most frequently and conveniently used packed in a breathable sachet
or bag. These are available in a wide range of sizes suitable for use with a
wide range of applications.

Standard white silica gel is referred to as being non-indicating. As it
adsorbs moisture it remains physically unchanged. Non-indicating silica gel
is both cheap and effective, available loose in bulk packs or packed in
sachets.

Self-indicating silica gels are coloured gels whose colour changes as they
adsorb moisture.


The best and cheapest desiccant is Silica gel, this is often used for
packing electronic equipment and similar to prevent damage by condensation.
It is usually in small paper sachets in the packing boxes. If you ask at an
electrical goods store or similar they may be able to give you a whole load
of it, as they just throw it away. Silica gel is in the form of small
spheres usually, to use this as a fly drying medium, just grind these up in
a coffee grinder or similar, you can also crush it with a hammer, and put in
an airtight container such as a 35mm film can. To dry your fly, just dip it
in the powder and shake, the fly is dry almost immediately.

It is not a good idea to use silica gel in fly-boxes, because the gel will
adsorb water from the surroundings, and may have the reverse effect to the
one desired, holding moisture in your box. The best policy is to ensure
your flies are perfectly dry before putting them back in the box. The best
way to do this is to get a small plastic film canister with a snap on lid.
Drill a series of holes with a small drill around the base, and around the
upper rim. Drill a hole in the lid, pass a cord through it and knot it, and
attach the other end to your vest or whatever. Used flies placed in this box
dry perfectly, and relatively quickly. You cannot lose the flies ( flies
tend to fall out of "drying-patches" and the like, especially barbless ones
! ), and your drying box may be emptied at the end of the day and the dry
flies returned to the
main box. This is the best way to dry flies I have yet discovered.

Goose grease, bacon fat, lard ( rendered beef fat), suet, ( rendered kidney
fat), and a host of other things will work as floatants. Palm oil (
cocoanut oil), which is sold in solid white blocks for cooking purposes, is
also an excellent natural floatant. One old guy I used to know in Yorkshire
dipped his dry flies in hot bacon fat, patted them dry on a soft cloth, and
used them quite successfully.

Preen gland oil from ducks ( although it has never been quite clear to me
how this is obtained) is an excellent floatant. ( Perhaps there are whole
tribes of "duck-milkers" wandering around? ).

Some newer chemical treatments actually repel water.

Silica gel, and some other drying crystals work well without floatants of
any kind.

Nowadays, one has even more problems with floatant, as it is unlikely that
you will find a river anywhere which is not contaminated with detergent.
This causes even tenacious floatants to be washed off very quickly indeed.

There are several principles involved here. The main aim of the exercise is
to prevent the flies getting wet. This may be achieved in several ways. The
most common one is to coat the fly with a substance which is immiscible with
water. But without clogging the hackles etc. Many oils work, but wash off
too quickly. Some thicker oils clog the hackles.

As soon as the hackle tips get wet, they start to penetrate the surface
film, and this accelerates the wetting process further, and eventually the
fly goes under. As we have quite a few fairly new subscribers here, it is
perhaps just as well to repeat another point. There is no point applying
floatant to a wet fly. It will sink. The fly is already wet, and applying
"floatant" to it will avail you nothing. Your only recourse is to dry it
carefully, and then re-apply floatant.

There is no floatant extant which will provide a fly with positive buoyancy.
If you read advertising blurb about floatant which says "Your flies float
like corks", then this is pure hyperbole, They are physically incapable of
doing anything of the sort, irrespective of whatever is plastered on them.

The only flies which float like corks, are made of cork, or similar
material, and in this case do not require floatant anyway.

One of the main reasons that top quality dry fly hackles were prized by
anglers, is the fact that these will stay afloat for quite a while without
any treatment at all. Hardly anybody tries this nowadays, but it works
exceedingly well. It requires a little more false casting to keep the
hackles dry, and a well slimed fly ( fish slime is probably one of the best
"sinkants" available), needs to be washed and dried before re-use. But it
works very well.

Quite a few people used thinned down varnish. This also stiffens hackles
somewhat, but can cause a terrible mess.

The first person to invent an intrinsically waterproof hackle will make a
fortune. It surprises me that firms like Hoffman etc, have not apparently
done much research in this area. It ought to be possible to breed a bird
whose hackles are more waterproof.

Adding scent to flies is not difficult. All sorts of things are now
available which would allow one to do this, and I have no doubt that some
people already do it. It rather defeats the object of fly-fishing though,
which is to fool a fish by presenting him with a lifelike visual copy of
whatever he happens to be feeding on. Adding scent to flies, brings in new
dimensions, which many will not agree with.

It may well be that a fish would take even a completely incorrect copy of a
fly, simply because it smelled good. This again, defeats much of the
objective for many.

TL
MC

[Willi]

Larry L wrote:

> Frog's Fanny is, imho, a great boon to the flat water fly fisher ( not so
> flat, too ), but it is pricey.
>
> I oscillate between wanting to support whoever is packaging it, because they
> have improved my fishing and deserve support .... and wanting to find the
> same stuff cheaper
>
> I vaguely remember ( about the only type of remember I experience at my
> age ) seeing something, somewhere, about the same material packaged for a
> different market .... I'm not the least sure it was on ROFF, but if you know
> of a different way to obtain this cool stuff ...let me know, please .....
> and thank you, in advance
>
>


I share your feelings on this. But I'm a cheap SOB and found Frog's
Fanny pricey because I do go through alot.

I bought a large bag (probably enough to fill 100s of containers) for
$20 at a local fly shop. They told me it was toner. Snoop however, says
that it is an agent they use in fiberglass construction. He used to
build custom airplanes and had used it in the past. Hopefully he'll
comment on this. It is definitely NOT silica gel

No matter where you get it, it is great stuff.

Has anyone tried the trick of using it on nymphs or wets? I keep meaning
to try it during some caddis activity, but always forget.

Willi

[Scott Seidman]

Willi > wrote in news:401582f7$0$70305$75868355
@news.frii.net:

>
> I bought a large bag (probably enough to fill 100s of containers) for
> $20 at a local fly shop. They told me it was toner. Snoop however, says
> that it is an agent they use in fiberglass construction. He used to
> build custom airplanes and had used it in the past. Hopefully he'll
> comment on this. It is definitely NOT silica gel

It would seem like the company would have to provide an MSDS to anyone who
stocked the product. Has anyone asked for one??

Scott

[Dave LaCourse]

Larry L. writes:

>Frog's Fanny is, imho, a great boon to the flat water fly fisher ( not so
>flat, too ), but it is pricey.
>
>I oscillate between wanting to support whoever is packaging it, because they
>have improved my fishing and deserve support .... and wanting to find the
>same stuff cheaper
>
>I vaguely remember ( about the only type of remember I experience at my
>age ) seeing something, somewhere, about the same material packaged for a
>different market .... I'm not the least sure it was on ROFF, but if you know
>of a different way to obtain this cool stuff ...let me know, please .....
>and thank you, in advance

It is a desicant which can be easily bought in bulk (silica gel). You
sometimes see it in electronic packaging. However, it also has a floatant
added to it. I started using desicants years ago to dry my slimed then
washed-off dries, and it works well. But Frog's Fanny is something more than
just hygroscopic crystals. It comes with a brush and the more you work the
material into the hackle, the better the fly floats. I use it on nymphs to
help capture bubbles, not unlike some (most?) caddis pupa.

It *is* expensive. About five bucks for a little jug, but if used prudently, a
jug should last an entire season. You don't need much of it. I usually carry
a bottle of desicant, put the fly in and give it a good shake, blow off the
excess (or false cast it), then treat it with Frog's Fanny. If you use it this
way, a jug will probably go the season. Five bucks to float a fly for the
season -- not bad. d;o)



Dave

http://hometown.aol.com/davplac/myhomepage/index.html

[Larry L]

I haven't tried Fanny on nymphs, but have used a different
dessicant/floatant combo whose name escapes me ... with good results

My only use was with a Bird's Nest, shaken in the stuff, and then sunk via
split shot on the Truckee River .... I caught fish .... which ones wouldn't
have eaten just the Bird's Nest untreated, or how many pointed and laughed
at the treated fly and let it drift on by, I don't know <G>

[Larry L]

"Willi" > wrote

> I bought a large bag (probably enough to fill 100s of containers) for
> $20 at a local fly shop. They told me it was toner. Snoop however, says
> that it is an agent they use in fiberglass construction. He used to
> build custom airplanes and had used it in the past. Hopefully he'll
> comment on this. It is definitely NOT silica gel


did you mean hobby shop? was there a brand name, product name, that I can
ask for?

[Dave LaCourse]

Willi writes:

>Has anyone tried the trick of using it on nymphs or wets? I keep meaning
>to try it during some caddis activity, but always forget.

Yes! If the nymph is the "buggy" kind it works well. If the nymph has got
plastic ribbing AND peacock herl, I put it on the herl, but it works best on
buggy type nymphs.
Dave

http://hometown.aol.com/davplac/myhomepage/index.html

[Stephen Welsh]

"Larry L" > wrote in
:

> Frog's Fanny is, imho, a great boon to the flat water fly fisher ( not
> so flat, too ), but it is pricey.
>
[snip]
> .... I'm not the least sure it was on ROFF, but
> if you know of a different way to obtain this cool stuff ...let me
> know, please ..... and thank you, in advance
>
>

As well as Willi's post on 'toner' I recall something about "Fletching
powder" used in archery ....

Steve

[Snoop]

Willi wrote:

> I bought a large bag (probably enough to fill 100s of containers) for
> $20 at a local fly shop. They told me it was toner. Snoop however, says
> that it is an agent they use in fiberglass construction. He used to
> build custom airplanes and had used it in the past. Hopefully he'll
> comment on this. It is definitely NOT silica gel

Willi,

I'm pretty sure the Frog's Fanny is Cab-O-Sil. It looks like and behaves
like it anyway. We used it to keep resin from flowing on vertical surfaces.
Someone who's experienced with how Frog's Fanny works should order some and
compare. It's really cheap. I'm sorry that I threw the bag (1 gallon) away
when I swore off fiberglassing.
Aircraft Spruce & Specialty in CA sells it. My old catalog has a part no. of
01-14711 at a price of $2.85 for a gallon bag. This catalog is 1995 so don't
know what the price might be now. The phone number for ACS is 800-824-1930.
Freight is probably more than the goods. Another possible source would be West
Marine. You'll have to figure out what to use for a bottle and brush.

Snoop



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[Larry L]

"Mike Connor" > wrote

> Preen gland oil from ducks ( although it has never been quite clear to me
> how this is obtained) is an excellent floatant. ( Perhaps there are whole
> tribes of "duck-milkers" wandering around? ).
>


well crap, here comes another another sleepless night, trying to visualize
duck milking on a large scale


Hehe, I HAVE picked my own CDC off of wild birds, but I draw the line at
duck butt milking

[Charlie Choc]

On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 16:36:27 -0700, Snoop > wrote:

> I'm pretty sure the Frog's Fanny is Cab-O-Sil. It looks like and behaves
>like it anyway.

That's the stuff I was trying to think of. I worked in a fiberglass
plant years ago and we used it there.
--
Charlie...

[rw]

Larry L wrote:

> Frog's Fanny is, imho, a great boon to the flat water fly fisher ( not so
> flat, too ), but it is pricey.
>
> I oscillate between wanting to support whoever is packaging it, because they
> have improved my fishing and deserve support .... and wanting to find the
> same stuff cheaper

Kinda like Gink vs. Albolene. :-)

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.

[Stephen Welsh]

Snoop > wrote in :

> Willi wrote:
>
>> I bought a large bag (probably enough to fill 100s of containers) for
>> $20 at a local fly shop. They told me it was toner. Snoop however,
>> says that it is an agent they use in fiberglass construction. He used
>> to build custom airplanes and had used it in the past. Hopefully
>> he'll comment on this. It is definitely NOT silica gel
>
> Willi,
>
> I'm pretty sure the Frog's Fanny is Cab-O-Sil. It looks like and
> behaves
> like it anyway. We used it to keep resin from flowing on vertical
> surfaces. Someone who's experienced with how Frog's Fanny works should
> order some and compare. It's really cheap. I'm sorry that I threw
> the bag (1 gallon) away when I swore off fiberglassing.
> Aircraft Spruce & Specialty in CA sells it. My old catalog has a
> part no. of
> 01-14711 at a price of $2.85 for a gallon bag. This catalog is 1995
> so don't know what the price might be now. The phone number for ACS
> is 800-824-1930. Freight is probably more than the goods. Another
> possible source would be West Marine. You'll have to figure out what
> to use for a bottle and brush.
>
> Snoop
>
>

Some Synonyms:

Aquafil; CAB-O-SIL; Fossil flour; Aerosil, CAB-O-GRIP II; Colloidal
silica

From:

http://www.nohsc.gov.au/OHSInformation/Databases/ExposureStandards/az/Fum
ed_silica.htm

The different forms of silica are intereting to ... the colloidal one for
instance "... the silica particles must be small enough such that they
are largely unaffected by gravity." - sound familiar?

:-)

Steve

[rw]

Snoop wrote:

> Willi wrote:
>
>> I bought a large bag (probably enough to fill 100s of containers) for
>> $20 at a local fly shop. They told me it was toner. Snoop however,
>> says that it is an agent they use in fiberglass construction. He used
>> to build custom airplanes and had used it in the past. Hopefully he'll
>> comment on this. It is definitely NOT silica gel
>
>
> Willi,
>
> I'm pretty sure the Frog's Fanny is Cab-O-Sil. It looks like and
> behaves like it anyway. We used it to keep resin from flowing on
> vertical surfaces. Someone who's experienced with how Frog's Fanny works
> should order some and compare. It's really cheap. I'm sorry that I
> threw the bag (1 gallon) away when I swore off fiberglassing.
> Aircraft Spruce & Specialty in CA sells it. My old catalog has a part
> no. of 01-14711 at a price of $2.85 for a gallon bag. This catalog is
> 1995 so don't know what the price might be now. The phone number for
> ACS is 800-824-1930. Freight is probably more than the goods. Another
> possible source would be West Marine. You'll have to figure out what to
> use for a bottle and brush.

Maybe you could refill a Frog's Fanny bottle. :-)

http://www.eagerplastics.com/cab.htm

http://w1.cabot-corp.com/controller.jsp?N=23+4294966881+1001&entry=product

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/cabosil.php

A gallon bag of Cabosil costs $6.75 at AircraftSpruce.com. Cabela's
sells Frog's Fanny for $5 for what I'd guess is a 0.5 fluid ounce
bottle. That works out to $1280/gallon, or an 18,962% markup (if, in
fact, they're the same thing, and you ignore all those little bottles
and brushes and labels).

I like Frog's Fanny, but go through it very fast -- much faster than
other dessicants. I could easily use half a dozen bottles in a season.

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.

[Larry L]

"rw" > wrote

> I like Frog's Fanny, but go through it very fast -- much faster than
> other dessicants. I could easily use half a dozen bottles in a season.
>

I go through it fast too, lots just blows away it seems .... and fish on a
budget ... I bet I need my money more than Mr Cabela <G>

[Mike Connor]

"Larry L" > schrieb im Newsbeitrag
...

You might like to try this;
http://www.no-odor.com/moisteze/powder.htm

These dessicant powders are usually a combination of silica gel, and silica
powder. There are a lot of them on the market. They all work for drying
flies. The types with silica powder are somewhat better, as the powder also
acts as a floatant.

I use ground ( coffee grinder) silica gel to dry flies, and then a floatant
to waterproof them again. Works great, and the silica gel costs nothing. I
have about 40 pounds of it, collected from electronics packaging.

TL
MC

[rw]

Larry L wrote:
> "rw" > wrote
>
>
>>I like Frog's Fanny, but go through it very fast -- much faster than
>>other dessicants. I could easily use half a dozen bottles in a season.
>>
>
>
> I go through it fast too, lots just blows away it seems .... and fish on a
> budget ... I bet I need my money more than Mr Cabela <G>

Well, like you said, whoever discovered that this stuff works deserves
credit, and I expect that they're reaping some financial rewards. Sound
familiar? :-) I very much doubt, now that the cat is out of the bag on
ROFF, that they're going to see any serious erosion in their profits. If
a competitor were to repackage caposil at a lower price and an equally
clever name, however ...

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.

[Larry]

If you know any diabetics that use certains types of trst strips, it
comes in the caps of the strips which are typically discarded. I saved
it up for 2 years while using those strips, and now am on a new meter
whose strips don't use it.

Larry n(one of the other ones)

Larry L wrote:

> Frog's Fanny is, imho, a great boon to the flat water fly fisher ( not so
> flat, too ), but it is pricey.
>
> I oscillate between wanting to support whoever is packaging it, because they
> have improved my fishing and deserve support .... and wanting to find the
> same stuff cheaper
>
> I vaguely remember ( about the only type of remember I experience at my
> age ) seeing something, somewhere, about the same material packaged for a
> different market .... I'm not the least sure it was on ROFF, but if you know
> of a different way to obtain this cool stuff ...let me know, please .....
> and thank you, in advance
>
>

[daytripper]

On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 21:29:26 GMT, "Larry L"
> wrote:

>
>"Willi" > wrote
>
>> I bought a large bag (probably enough to fill 100s of containers) for
>> $20 at a local fly shop. They told me it was toner. Snoop however, says
>> that it is an agent they use in fiberglass construction. He used to
>> build custom airplanes and had used it in the past. Hopefully he'll
>> comment on this. It is definitely NOT silica gel
>
>
>did you mean hobby shop? was there a brand name, product name, that I can
>ask for?
>

I wonder if it was "micro-balloons"...

[Mark Tinsky]

I ve used some silica powder that is used for drying flowers. They
sell it at craft stores. One can lasts forever MT