Deep Hooked Pike

[Danny]

Hi.

I have been lucky until now, having not deep-hooked a Pike. But, what is
the best thing to do if you do deep hook one?

Obviously try to get the hooks out first with forceps, then try to cut the
hooks if it is the only way. But, what if you can't get to the hooks? Is
it better to cut the wire trace as close as possible, so there is less to
get in the way of the fish. Or cut the line leaving the swivel, in case
someone else catches the fish and can try to get the hooks out easier?

For other people interested in deep hooked pike, have a look at these sites:

http://tinyurl.com/tira
http://tinyurl.com/tirm ('then go to Handling')

And this was written by Alan Tomkins (http://tinyurl.com/tism):
I shouldn't have to say anything about pike handling should I. After all,
virtually every article written on pike nowadays deals with the treatment of
pike once they are on the bank. So why do I continually meet anglers whose
only unhooking equipment is a pair of pliers, if that, a pike gag and a pair
of wire cutters (they always have wire cutters!)

Why did I catch a beautiful pike of nearly 22lbs last season that had one
flank permanently disfigured by being allowed to thrash about on a gravel
bank? Why do people who are terrified of pike, fish for them? Why do they
use short traces, enormous trebles and low breaking strain lines? Why do
they wait 5 minutes before striking a run, even on 2 inch livebaits? Why do
I see people casting out herrings, using no audible form of bite indication
(often no visual one either), then disappearing for hours on end to fish for
small fish elsewhere on the lake? It is nearly always the people who deep
hook pike regularly that come ill equipped to deal with that situation.
Standard pike unhooking equipment must include the following:

Soft mat to lay pike on if fishing on hard banks.
At least one pair 12" artery forceps.
Leather glove.
Long handled wire cutters (for cutting up hooks as
a last resort - not just cutting the trace and leaving the hooks in)
Deep throat pike disgorger.

Don't be frightened of a pike - they don't bite you on purpose. Most cuts
are caused by anglers touching the pike's razor sharp teeth, or the gill
covers. Or by having their hand in the wrong place when a pike jumps. Turn
the pike upside down, and slide one hand into the gill covers, starting at
the end furthest from the snout, and moving up until you have a grip. Lift
the pikes head, and it's mouth will open. If you have timed your strike
correctly, it will just be a case of picking out the hooks with the forceps.

If you don't fancy using your bare hands, this operation can be carried out
while wearing a glove on the hand with which you are holding the fish, but
if the glove is at all thick you may find it difficult, and it may be best
to open the pike's mouth my holding it at the tip of its lower jaw and
lifting from there. In either case, on larger pike this is best done while
kneeling astride the fish. If you can't see the hooks, pull gently until you
can, then remove them with the forceps. Turning hooks upside down helps, as
does working through the gill covers, but take care not to damage the
delicate gill filaments. The wire cutters come in as a last resort,
initially to cut up any hooks which you can't remove, and finally, to cut
the trace as far down as possible. Don't go too far with this pulling up of
hooks - turning a pike's stomach inside out can't do it any good.

One last thing - I'm sure many people, even after reading this, and all the
other words written on pike handling, will still go pike fishing without the
necessary equipment. If you do have problems with a badly hooked fish,
please ask other anglers for assistance. Most responsible pike anglers will
not only be properly equipped, but will be only too pleased to help you, and
show you how pike should be unhooked. Don't be too proud to ask - everyone
needs to be shown once. Just because you've been fishing fifty years or
more, it doesn't mean you know everything. Saving the life of a pike is far
more important than a little lost pride!

[Phil.L]

Danny wrote:
: Hi.
:
: I have been lucky until now, having not deep-hooked a Pike. But,
: what is the best thing to do if you do deep hook one?
:
: Obviously try to get the hooks out first with forceps, then try to
: cut the hooks if it is the only way. But, what if you can't get to
: the hooks? Is it better to cut the wire trace as close as possible,
: so there is less to get in the way of the fish. Or cut the line
: leaving the swivel, in case someone else catches the fish and can try
: to get the hooks out easier?
:
: For other people interested in deep hooked pike, have a look at these
: sites:
:
: http://tinyurl.com/tira
: http://tinyurl.com/tirm ('then go to Handling')
:
: And this was written by Alan Tomkins (http://tinyurl.com/tism):
: I shouldn't have to say anything about pike handling should I. After
: all, virtually every article written on pike nowadays deals with the
: treatment of pike once they are on the bank. So why do I continually
: meet anglers whose only unhooking equipment is a pair of pliers, if
: that, a pike gag and a pair of wire cutters (they always have wire
: cutters!)
:
: Why did I catch a beautiful pike of nearly 22lbs last season that had
: one flank permanently disfigured by being allowed to thrash about on
: a gravel bank? Why do people who are terrified of pike, fish for
: them? Why do they use short traces, enormous trebles and low breaking
: strain lines? Why do they wait 5 minutes before striking a run, even
: on 2 inch livebaits? Why do I see people casting out herrings, using
: no audible form of bite indication (often no visual one either), then
: disappearing for hours on end to fish for small fish elsewhere on the
: lake? It is nearly always the people who deep hook pike regularly
: that come ill equipped to deal with that situation. Standard pike
: unhooking equipment must include the following:
:
: Soft mat to lay pike on if fishing on hard banks.
: At least one pair 12" artery forceps.
: Leather glove.
: Long handled wire cutters (for cutting up hooks as
: a last resort - not just cutting the trace and leaving the hooks in)
: Deep throat pike disgorger.
:
: Don't be frightened of a pike - they don't bite you on purpose. Most
: cuts are caused by anglers touching the pike's razor sharp teeth, or
: the gill covers. Or by having their hand in the wrong place when a
: pike jumps. Turn the pike upside down, and slide one hand into the
: gill covers, starting at the end furthest from the snout, and moving
: up until you have a grip. Lift the pikes head, and it's mouth will
: open. If you have timed your strike correctly, it will just be a case
: of picking out the hooks with the forceps.
:
: If you don't fancy using your bare hands, this operation can be
: carried out while wearing a glove on the hand with which you are
: holding the fish, but if the glove is at all thick you may find it
: difficult, and it may be best to open the pike's mouth my holding it
: at the tip of its lower jaw and lifting from there. In either case,
: on larger pike this is best done while kneeling astride the fish. If
: you can't see the hooks, pull gently until you can, then remove them
: with the forceps. Turning hooks upside down helps, as does working
: through the gill covers, but take care not to damage the delicate
: gill filaments. The wire cutters come in as a last resort, initially
: to cut up any hooks which you can't remove, and finally, to cut the
: trace as far down as possible. Don't go too far with this pulling up
: of hooks - turning a pike's stomach inside out can't do it any good.
:
: One last thing - I'm sure many people, even after reading this, and
: all the other words written on pike handling, will still go pike
: fishing without the necessary equipment. If you do have problems with
: a badly hooked fish, please ask other anglers for assistance. Most
: responsible pike anglers will not only be properly equipped, but will
: be only too pleased to help you, and show you how pike should be
: unhooked. Don't be too proud to ask - everyone needs to be shown
: once. Just because you've been fishing fifty years or more, it
: doesn't mean you know everything. Saving the life of a pike is far
: more important than a little lost pride!

A well informed post that everyone should take heed of if they are
attempting to catch pike this winter, also a few more pointers:
Crush the barbs down on your treble hooks, they are not required and will
only make unhooking harder.
Trebles themselves are often too much, I prefer to crack off one of the
hooks making it just a double with the two opposite hooks remaining it
still has ample hooking power to keep the biggest of pike on easily.

[zzr]

as metioned the simplest way of avoiding the deep hooking problem is two
fold, dont wait longer than a couple of seconds before striking and use
de-barbed or barbless hooks ...
However as we all know accidents happen .... long forceps, gentle but firm
and if all else fails LONG SLIM wire cutters to cut up the hook not the
trace ...
"Danny" > wrote in message
...
> Hi.
>
> I have been lucky until now, having not deep-hooked a Pike. But, what is
> the best thing to do if you do deep hook one?
>
> Obviously try to get the hooks out first with forceps, then try to cut the
> hooks if it is the only way. But, what if you can't get to the hooks? Is
> it better to cut the wire trace as close as possible, so there is less to
> get in the way of the fish. Or cut the line leaving the swivel, in case
> someone else catches the fish and can try to get the hooks out easier?
>
> For other people interested in deep hooked pike, have a look at these
sites:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/tira
> http://tinyurl.com/tirm ('then go to Handling')
>
> And this was written by Alan Tomkins (http://tinyurl.com/tism):
> I shouldn't have to say anything about pike handling should I. After all,
> virtually every article written on pike nowadays deals with the treatment
of
> pike once they are on the bank. So why do I continually meet anglers whose
> only unhooking equipment is a pair of pliers, if that, a pike gag and a
pair
> of wire cutters (they always have wire cutters!)
>
> Why did I catch a beautiful pike of nearly 22lbs last season that had one
> flank permanently disfigured by being allowed to thrash about on a gravel
> bank? Why do people who are terrified of pike, fish for them? Why do they
> use short traces, enormous trebles and low breaking strain lines? Why do
> they wait 5 minutes before striking a run, even on 2 inch livebaits? Why
do
> I see people casting out herrings, using no audible form of bite
indication
> (often no visual one either), then disappearing for hours on end to fish
for
> small fish elsewhere on the lake? It is nearly always the people who deep
> hook pike regularly that come ill equipped to deal with that situation.
> Standard pike unhooking equipment must include the following:
>
> Soft mat to lay pike on if fishing on hard banks.
> At least one pair 12" artery forceps.
> Leather glove.
> Long handled wire cutters (for cutting up hooks as
> a last resort - not just cutting the trace and leaving the hooks in)
> Deep throat pike disgorger.
>
> Don't be frightened of a pike - they don't bite you on purpose. Most cuts
> are caused by anglers touching the pike's razor sharp teeth, or the gill
> covers. Or by having their hand in the wrong place when a pike jumps. Turn
> the pike upside down, and slide one hand into the gill covers, starting at
> the end furthest from the snout, and moving up until you have a grip. Lift
> the pikes head, and it's mouth will open. If you have timed your strike
> correctly, it will just be a case of picking out the hooks with the
forceps.
>
> If you don't fancy using your bare hands, this operation can be carried
out
> while wearing a glove on the hand with which you are holding the fish, but
> if the glove is at all thick you may find it difficult, and it may be best
> to open the pike's mouth my holding it at the tip of its lower jaw and
> lifting from there. In either case, on larger pike this is best done while
> kneeling astride the fish. If you can't see the hooks, pull gently until
you
> can, then remove them with the forceps. Turning hooks upside down helps,
as
> does working through the gill covers, but take care not to damage the
> delicate gill filaments. The wire cutters come in as a last resort,
> initially to cut up any hooks which you can't remove, and finally, to cut
> the trace as far down as possible. Don't go too far with this pulling up
of
> hooks - turning a pike's stomach inside out can't do it any good.
>
> One last thing - I'm sure many people, even after reading this, and all
the
> other words written on pike handling, will still go pike fishing without
the
> necessary equipment. If you do have problems with a badly hooked fish,
> please ask other anglers for assistance. Most responsible pike anglers
will
> not only be properly equipped, but will be only too pleased to help you,
and
> show you how pike should be unhooked. Don't be too proud to ask - everyone
> needs to be shown once. Just because you've been fishing fifty years or
> more, it doesn't mean you know everything. Saving the life of a pike is
far
> more important than a little lost pride!
>
>
>

[zzr]

"zzr" > wrote in message
...
> as metioned the simplest way of avoiding the deep hooking problem is two
> fold, dont wait longer than a couple of seconds before striking and use
> de-barbed or barbless hooks ...
> However as we all know accidents happen .... long forceps, gentle but
firm
> and if all else fails LONG SLIM wire cutters to cut up the hook not the
> trace ...
> "Danny" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Hi.
> >
> > I have been lucky until now, having not deep-hooked a Pike. But, what
is
> > the best thing to do if you do deep hook one?
> >
> > Obviously try to get the hooks out first with forceps, then try to cut
the
> > hooks if it is the only way. But, what if you can't get to the hooks?
Is
> > it better to cut the wire trace as close as possible, so there is less
to
> > get in the way of the fish. Or cut the line leaving the swivel, in case
> > someone else catches the fish and can try to get the hooks out easier?
> >
> > For other people interested in deep hooked pike, have a look at these
> sites:
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/tira
> > http://tinyurl.com/tirm ('then go to Handling')
> >
> > And this was written by Alan Tomkins (http://tinyurl.com/tism):
> > I shouldn't have to say anything about pike handling should I. After
all,
> > virtually every article written on pike nowadays deals with the
treatment
> of
> > pike once they are on the bank. So why do I continually meet anglers
whose
> > only unhooking equipment is a pair of pliers, if that, a pike gag and a
> pair
> > of wire cutters (they always have wire cutters!)
> >
> > Why did I catch a beautiful pike of nearly 22lbs last season that had
one
> > flank permanently disfigured by being allowed to thrash about on a
gravel
> > bank? Why do people who are terrified of pike, fish for them? Why do
they
> > use short traces, enormous trebles and low breaking strain lines? Why do

> > they wait 5 minutes before striking a run, even on 2 inch livebaits? Why
> do
> > I see people casting out herrings, using no audible form of bite
> indication
> > (often no visual one either), then disappearing for hours on end to fish
> for
> > small fish elsewhere on the lake? It is nearly always the people who
deep
> > hook pike regularly that come ill equipped to deal with that situation.
> > Standard pike unhooking equipment must include the following:
> >
> > Soft mat to lay pike on if fishing on hard banks.
> > At least one pair 12" artery forceps.
> > Leather glove.
> > Long handled wire cutters (for cutting up hooks as
> > a last resort - not just cutting the trace and leaving the hooks in)
> > Deep throat pike disgorger.
> >
> > Don't be frightened of a pike - they don't bite you on purpose. Most
cuts
> > are caused by anglers touching the pike's razor sharp teeth, or the gill
> > covers. Or by having their hand in the wrong place when a pike jumps.
Turn
> > the pike upside down, and slide one hand into the gill covers, starting
at
> > the end furthest from the snout, and moving up until you have a grip.
Lift
> > the pikes head, and it's mouth will open. If you have timed your strike
> > correctly, it will just be a case of picking out the hooks with the
> forceps.
> >
> > If you don't fancy using your bare hands, this operation can be carried
> out
> > while wearing a glove on the hand with which you are holding the fish,
but
> > if the glove is at all thick you may find it difficult, and it may be
best
> > to open the pike's mouth my holding it at the tip of its lower jaw and
> > lifting from there. In either case, on larger pike this is best done
while
> > kneeling astride the fish. If you can't see the hooks, pull gently until
> you
> > can, then remove them with the forceps. Turning hooks upside down helps,
> as
> > does working through the gill covers, but take care not to damage the
> > delicate gill filaments. The wire cutters come in as a last resort,
> > initially to cut up any hooks which you can't remove, and finally, to
cut
> > the trace as far down as possible. Don't go too far with this pulling up
> of
> > hooks - turning a pike's stomach inside out can't do it any good.
> >
> > One last thing - I'm sure many people, even after reading this, and all
> the
> > other words written on pike handling, will still go pike fishing without
> the
> > necessary equipment. If you do have problems with a badly hooked fish,
> > please ask other anglers for assistance. Most responsible pike anglers
> will
> > not only be properly equipped, but will be only too pleased to help you,
> and
> > show you how pike should be unhooked. Don't be too proud to ask -
everyone
> > needs to be shown once. Just because you've been fishing fifty years or
> > more, it doesn't mean you know everything. Saving the life of a pike is
> far
> > more important than a little lost pride!
> >
> >
> >
>
>

[howard]

"Danny" > wrote in message
...
> Hi.
>
> I have been lucky until now, having not deep-hooked a Pike. But, what is
> the best thing to do if you do deep hook one?
>
> Obviously try to get the hooks out first with forceps, then try to cut the
> hooks if it is the only way. But, what if you can't get to the hooks? Is
> it better to cut the wire trace as close as possible, so there is less to
> get in the way of the fish. Or cut the line leaving the swivel, in case
> someone else catches the fish and can try to get the hooks out easier?


If you leave a treble in the gut the fish will starve to death
as the fish will unable to swallow food. Use long wire cutters.

[Danny]

Cheers.


"howard" > wrote in message
...
>
> If you leave a treble in the gut the fish will starve to death
> as the fish will unable to swallow food. Use long wire cutters.
>
>
>

[kill bob not bill]

good article..


"Phil.L" > wrote in message
...
> Danny wrote:
> : Hi.
> :
> : I have been lucky until now, having not deep-hooked a Pike. But,
> : what is the best thing to do if you do deep hook one?
> :
> : Obviously try to get the hooks out first with forceps, then try to
> : cut the hooks if it is the only way. But, what if you can't get to
> : the hooks? Is it better to cut the wire trace as close as possible,
> : so there is less to get in the way of the fish. Or cut the line
> : leaving the swivel, in case someone else catches the fish and can try
> : to get the hooks out easier?
> :
> : For other people interested in deep hooked pike, have a look at these
> : sites:
> :
> : http://tinyurl.com/tira
> : http://tinyurl.com/tirm ('then go to Handling')
> :
> : And this was written by Alan Tomkins (http://tinyurl.com/tism):
> : I shouldn't have to say anything about pike handling should I. After
> : all, virtually every article written on pike nowadays deals with the
> : treatment of pike once they are on the bank. So why do I continually
> : meet anglers whose only unhooking equipment is a pair of pliers, if
> : that, a pike gag and a pair of wire cutters (they always have wire
> : cutters!)
> :
> : Why did I catch a beautiful pike of nearly 22lbs last season that had
> : one flank permanently disfigured by being allowed to thrash about on
> : a gravel bank? Why do people who are terrified of pike, fish for
> : them? Why do they use short traces, enormous trebles and low breaking
> : strain lines? Why do they wait 5 minutes before striking a run, even
> : on 2 inch livebaits? Why do I see people casting out herrings, using
> : no audible form of bite indication (often no visual one either), then
> : disappearing for hours on end to fish for small fish elsewhere on the
> : lake? It is nearly always the people who deep hook pike regularly
> : that come ill equipped to deal with that situation. Standard pike
> : unhooking equipment must include the following:
> :
> : Soft mat to lay pike on if fishing on hard banks.
> : At least one pair 12" artery forceps.
> : Leather glove.
> : Long handled wire cutters (for cutting up hooks as
> : a last resort - not just cutting the trace and leaving the hooks in)
> : Deep throat pike disgorger.
> :
> : Don't be frightened of a pike - they don't bite you on purpose. Most
> : cuts are caused by anglers touching the pike's razor sharp teeth, or
> : the gill covers. Or by having their hand in the wrong place when a
> : pike jumps. Turn the pike upside down, and slide one hand into the
> : gill covers, starting at the end furthest from the snout, and moving
> : up until you have a grip. Lift the pikes head, and it's mouth will
> : open. If you have timed your strike correctly, it will just be a case
> : of picking out the hooks with the forceps.
> :
> : If you don't fancy using your bare hands, this operation can be
> : carried out while wearing a glove on the hand with which you are
> : holding the fish, but if the glove is at all thick you may find it
> : difficult, and it may be best to open the pike's mouth my holding it
> : at the tip of its lower jaw and lifting from there. In either case,
> : on larger pike this is best done while kneeling astride the fish. If
> : you can't see the hooks, pull gently until you can, then remove them
> : with the forceps. Turning hooks upside down helps, as does working
> : through the gill covers, but take care not to damage the delicate
> : gill filaments. The wire cutters come in as a last resort, initially
> : to cut up any hooks which you can't remove, and finally, to cut the
> : trace as far down as possible. Don't go too far with this pulling up
> : of hooks - turning a pike's stomach inside out can't do it any good.
> :
> : One last thing - I'm sure many people, even after reading this, and
> : all the other words written on pike handling, will still go pike
> : fishing without the necessary equipment. If you do have problems with
> : a badly hooked fish, please ask other anglers for assistance. Most
> : responsible pike anglers will not only be properly equipped, but will
> : be only too pleased to help you, and show you how pike should be
> : unhooked. Don't be too proud to ask - everyone needs to be shown
> : once. Just because you've been fishing fifty years or more, it
> : doesn't mean you know everything. Saving the life of a pike is far
> : more important than a little lost pride!
>
> A well informed post that everyone should take heed of if they are
> attempting to catch pike this winter, also a few more pointers:
> Crush the barbs down on your treble hooks, they are not required and will
> only make unhooking harder.
> Trebles themselves are often too much, I prefer to crack off one of the
> hooks making it just a double with the two opposite hooks remaining it
> still has ample hooking power to keep the biggest of pike on easily.
>
>