Neoprene wader repair.

[Kim Sawyer]

I caught the inside leg of my neoprene chest waders on a barbed fence
last week, and put a hole in them. Fortunately, it wasn't too serious.
The barb plucked out a core of neoprene which was easily glued back into
placed and should prove to be waterproof. But it occurred to me that I
wouldn't have known how to repair more serious damage, say, a major
tear.

Two neoprene patches and a tube of glue were included when I bought the
waders, but the instructions on how to make a repair are ambiguous, to
say the least. So does anybody have a particular method? Is the patch
applied from the inside or the outside?

I know it isn't rocket science, but I'd hate to be fishing a long way
from home and have the things start to leak.

--
Kim Sawyer
Sutherland
Scotland

[Derek.Moody]

In article >, Kim Sawyer
> wrote:
> I caught the inside leg of my neoprene chest waders on a barbed fence

> placed and should prove to be waterproof. But it occurred to me that I
> wouldn't have known how to repair more serious damage, say, a major
> tear.

A dive/surfing shop should have instructions and kit for fixing neoprene.

Usually you just have to bring the edges together with a little excess glue,
clamp and wait. Sometimes the damage is such that the area will be subject
to excessive stress so you overlap with a patch. Inside -and- out is always
best otherwise if just one side then the one with the opening stress,
(usually the outside) is best -if- the adjacent surface is in good enough
condition for glueing. Pro-repairers will sometimes cut out a torn area and
insert a new piece - lay the patch and tear together and cut both in one if
you can. It is worth prophilactic patching over a badly worn area before it
goes through rather than playing catch-up with leaks.

Cheerio,

--
>>

[Kim Sawyer]

The message >
from "Derek.Moody" > contains these words:

> In article >, Kim Sawyer
> > wrote:
> > I caught the inside leg of my neoprene chest waders on a barbed fence

> > placed and should prove to be waterproof. But it occurred to me that I
> > wouldn't have known how to repair more serious damage, say, a major
> > tear.

> A dive/surfing shop should have instructions and kit for fixing neoprene.

> Usually you just have to bring the edges together with a little excess glue,
> clamp and wait. Sometimes the damage is such that the area will be subject
> to excessive stress so you overlap with a patch. Inside -and- out is always
> best otherwise if just one side then the one with the opening stress,
> (usually the outside) is best -if- the adjacent surface is in good enough
> condition for glueing. Pro-repairers will sometimes cut out a torn area and
> insert a new piece - lay the patch and tear together and cut both in one if
> you can. It is worth prophilactic patching over a badly worn area before it
> goes through rather than playing catch-up with leaks.

Thanks, Derek. What threw me was the thickness of the neoprene patch. I
just thought that, applying it as a patch from the inside, as the
instructions said, would have left a bulky repair prone to rubbing, that
was bound to curl and fail eventually. So I wondered if the answer was
to remove an entire section, including the damaged area, and replace it
with a patch that was glued edge to edge.

Part of the instruction for repair included separating the outer nylon
membrane from the neoprene. I gave it a try but quickly gave it up as it
was almost impossible to do without causing further damage. Obviously
the answer is to stay well away from barbed wire fences.

Salmon are beginning to run here now.

--
Kim Sawyer
Sutherland
Scotland

[Derek.Moody]

In article >, Kim Sawyer
> wrote:

> Thanks, Derek. What threw me was the thickness of the neoprene patch. I

If the patch is just holding together a glued area under stress then it
doesn't have to be the same weight as the material itself - a bit of thinner
stuff may well be as effective.

> was bound to curl and fail eventually. So I wondered if the answer was
> to remove an entire section, including the damaged area, and replace it
> with a patch that was glued edge to edge.

That's how the professionals deal with major damage.

Biggest I ever saw was when a surfer had fallen off a motorbike (don't ask);
my gf at the time used to do repairs and she was presented with a suit
that had tatters instead of a left leg and very little left elbow...
When she finished the colours were a little odd but the wetsuit was
otherwise as good as new. Very repairable stuff neoprene though for a job
that size she also used a special stitching jig.

> Part of the instruction for repair included separating the outer nylon
> membrane from the neoprene. I gave it a try but quickly gave it up as it
> was almost impossible to do without causing further damage. Obviously
> the answer is to stay well away from barbed wire fences.

Last year I was deep wading a pool when a baliff turned up on the bank and
asked to see my licence. Rather than wade back up the pool I scrambled up
the rather steep, brambly bank at the tail which meant hands and knees at
one point. Of course I knelt on a thorn. As I was wearing thin nylon
waders this meant semi-stripping on the bank to extract the thorn followed
by a wet left foot for the rest of the day until I could effect repairs back
at the b&b.

> Salmon are beginning to run here now.

Go get 'em :-)

Immediate plans here are for a few early brownies to kick-off the season
then switch attention to sea fishing until the trout regain condition. No
plans (yet) for salmon until summer or later this year.

Cheerio,

--
>>

[Titus A Ducksass]

On Tue, 23 Mar 2004 13:01:03 GMT, Kim Sawyer >
wrote:

>I caught the inside leg of my neoprene chest waders on a barbed fence
>last week, and put a hole in them. Fortunately, it wasn't too serious.
>The barb plucked out a core of neoprene which was easily glued back into
>placed and should prove to be waterproof. But it occurred to me that I
>wouldn't have known how to repair more serious damage, say, a major
>tear.
>
>Two neoprene patches and a tube of glue were included when I bought the
>waders, but the instructions on how to make a repair are ambiguous, to
>say the least. So does anybody have a particular method? Is the patch
>applied from the inside or the outside?
>
>I know it isn't rocket science, but I'd hate to be fishing a long way
>from home and have the things start to leak.
<VB GRIN>
Have you never repaired a bike tire?????
Same principle...

For larger tears,,, you need to take up sewing...
Buy some rubber solution, some sand paper, some rubber - try a shoe
repairer.

[W. D. Grey]

In article >, Kim Sawyer
> writes
>Two neoprene patches and a tube of glue were included when I bought the
>waders, but the instructions on how to make a repair are ambiguous, to
>say the least. So does anybody have a particular method? Is the patch
>applied from the inside or the outside?

When I was a member of BSAC I had a 6mm neoprene suit. Some of the lads
used to make their own out of sheet neoprene. The method of joinig was
edge to edge using a contact adhesive called "Black magic" It was used
in the same way as Evostick.

Each edge was coated thinly then allowed to become tacky/dry then the
two edges brought firmly together. worked a treat.

In you case a proper patch of thin neoprene attached on the outside
using the Black Magic should do the trick.

Evostick is water soluble so use the Black Magic or whatever is the
uo-to-date stuff.
--
Bill Grey
http://www.billboy.co.uk

[Kim Sawyer]

The message >
from Titus A Ducksass > contains these words:

> Have you never repaired a bike tire?????
> Same principle...

As I mentioned to Derek in a later post, the thickness of the neoprene
material applied as you have suggested would have made for a very untidy
repair. I was sure there had to be a better way.

> For larger tears,,, you need to take up sewing...
> Buy some rubber solution, some sand paper, some rubber - try a shoe
> repairer.

I think I'll just take the fence down...

--
Kim Sawyer
Sutherland
Scotland

[Kim Sawyer]

The message >
from "Derek.Moody" > contains these words:

> > Salmon are beginning to run here now.

> Go get 'em :-)

First one went back here on the 13th of February. I'm on the Carron. The
lower beats are doing better than previous years. I'm led to believe two
rods had 9 fish between them one day last week. Seems as though there
are plenty of fish about for a change.

> Immediate plans here are for a few early brownies to kick-off the season
> then switch attention to sea fishing until the trout regain condition. No
> plans (yet) for salmon until summer or later this year.

After abandoning them for some years, I revisited some of my old trout
fishing venues last year and had a brilliant time. I intend to do the
same again this year. Beats mowing the lawn.

--
Kim Sawyer
Sutherland
Scotland

[laxhill]

On Tue, 23 Mar 2004 20:37:50 +0000, "W. D. Grey"
> wrote:

>In article >, Kim Sawyer
> writes
>>Two neoprene patches and a tube of glue were included when I bought the
>>waders, but the instructions on how to make a repair are ambiguous, to
>>say the least. So does anybody have a particular method? Is the patch
>>applied from the inside or the outside?
>
>When I was a member of BSAC I had a 6mm neoprene suit. Some of the lads
>used to make their own out of sheet neoprene. The method of joinig was
>edge to edge using a contact adhesive called "Black magic" It was used
>in the same way as Evostick.
>
>Each edge was coated thinly then allowed to become tacky/dry then the
>two edges brought firmly together. worked a treat.
>
>In you case a proper patch of thin neoprene attached on the outside
>using the Black Magic should do the trick.
>
>Evostick is water soluble so use the Black Magic or whatever is the
>uo-to-date stuff.




Presumably this stuff??
http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/details.php?cat=Cyanoacrylate%20Superglue&product=699

Keith

[W. D. Grey]

In article >, laxhill
> writes
>Presumably this stuff??

It wasn't/isn't super Glue but a contact adhesive.

Evostik, Thixofix are examples. - Not Superglue which is water soluble
anyway.
--
Bill Grey
http://www.billboy.co.uk

[Richard Bailey]

- Not Superglue which is water soluble

Does this mean that super-glueing a knot is a waste of time?

Richard Bailey
fishing traditionally in The Fens

[Derek.Moody]

In article >, Richard Bailey
> wrote:
> - Not Superglue which is water soluble
>
> Does this mean that super-glueing a knot is a waste of time?

That depends on the material you're knotting, there are waterproof
cyanoacrylates which might be suitable in some circumstances.

Superglueing (or anything which encases the knot in a rigid matrix) makes
any knot in nylon weaker - so if that's your intention, go ahead.

Cheerio,

--
>>

[Richard Bailey]

Derek

I believe that the main reason for knot failure is that over-tightening it
produces strangulation of the standing part ie the main line where it leaves
the knot. I have found that I get less of this inherent bloodknot problem
when I superglue the knot, but had not realised that the glue was soluble in
water.

Richard.



"Derek.Moody" > wrote in message
...
> In article >, Richard Bailey
> > wrote:
> > - Not Superglue which is water soluble
> >
> > Does this mean that super-glueing a knot is a waste of time?
>
> That depends on the material you're knotting, there are waterproof
> cyanoacrylates which might be suitable in some circumstances.
>
> Superglueing (or anything which encases the knot in a rigid matrix) makes
> any knot in nylon weaker - so if that's your intention, go ahead.
>
> Cheerio,
>
> --
> >>
>

[Kim Sawyer]

The message >
from "W. D. Grey" > contains these words:


> Evostik, Thixofix are examples. - Not Superglue which is water soluble
> anyway.

Hmm, never having used them before, I made up braided loops for all my
new salmon and trout lines last year. I was then informed by a friend
that braided loops have been 'rubbed off' by a hooked fish chaffing the
braid against rocks and other solid submerged objects, so also
Superglued them for added sucurity.

Watch this space...

--
Kim Sawyer
Sutherland
Scotland

[Derek.Moody]

In article >, Richard Bailey
> wrote:

> I believe that the main reason for knot failure is that over-tightening it
> produces strangulation of the standing part ie the main line where it leaves
> the knot. I have found that I get less of this inherent bloodknot problem
> when I superglue the knot, but had not realised that the glue was soluble in
> water.

Nylon mono is used for casting small, complicated holes in rigid substrates
as the line can always be drawn from the hole no matter how complicated the
path. If superglue gets inside the knot it cannot close on itself under
tension and so draws.

What are you using bloodknots for - droppers? Home tied leaders?

Have you tried a water knot for droppers - tied so the strain closes the
knot rather than the lazy way which means that strain opens it?

Cheerio,

--
>>

[Titus A Ducksass]

On Wed, 31 Mar 2004 11:03:46 +0100, "Derek.Moody"
> wrote:

>In article >, Richard Bailey
> wrote:
>
>> I believe that the main reason for knot failure is that over-tightening it
>> produces strangulation of the standing part ie the main line where it leaves
>> the knot. I have found that I get less of this inherent bloodknot problem
>> when I superglue the knot, but had not realised that the glue was soluble in
>> water.
>
>Nylon mono is used for casting small, complicated holes in rigid substrates
>as the line can always be drawn from the hole no matter how complicated the
>path. If superglue gets inside the knot it cannot close on itself under
>tension and so draws.
>
>What are you using bloodknots for - droppers? Home tied leaders?
>
>Have you tried a water knot for droppers - tied so the strain closes the
>knot rather than the lazy way which means that strain opens it?
>
>Cheerio,

I am not familiar with this knot, do you have a link to a site that
shows it?

[Sandy Birrell]

Titus A Ducksass wrote:
> On Wed, 31 Mar 2004 11:03:46 +0100, "Derek.Moody"
> > wrote:
>
>> Have you tried a water knot for droppers - tied so the strain
closes
>> the knot rather than the lazy way which means that strain opens it?
>>
>> Cheerio,
>
> I am not familiar with this knot, do you have a link to a site that
> shows it?

Also known as surgeons knot, have a look below.

http://www.fishandfly.co.uk/knots/index.html#leaders


--
Don`t Worry, Be Happy

Sandy
--

E-Mail:-
Website:- http://www.ftscotland.co.uk
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ICQ : 41266150

[Derek.Moody]

In article >, Titus A Ducksass
> wrote:
> On Wed, 31 Mar 2004 11:03:46 +0100, "Derek.Moody"
> > wrote:

> >Have you tried a water knot for droppers - tied so the strain closes the
> >knot rather than the lazy way which means that strain opens it?
> >
> >Cheerio,
>
> I am not familiar with this knot, do you have a link to a site that
> shows it?

Er, no.

Basically a double or triple overhand knot tied with two strands together
but you can't usually tie it that way as the trick is to lead the strain out
of opposite sides of the knot so make one overhand and work the other into
it.

Cheerio,

--
>>