Re: Fly rodding for pike

[Derek.Moody]

In article >, Jim Murray
> wrote:
> A few questions on flyrodding for pike.

A little OT here. X-posted & followups set to urf.coarse

> 1. I have some 14lb. fluorocarbon line, would this make a good leader
> material?

Use something cheap and stiff. Really nasty cut-priced 15lb bs would be my
choice. Try not to have a hinge-point between the leader and the wire
tippet. In other words use a knot that whips onto the wire rather than any
sort of loop to loop.

> 2. Can you use a braided loop connector to join the line to the backing.

Don't see why not though I tend to whip mine.

> 3. I've bought a 8/9 intermediate sinking line. Have heard that the (pike)
> fly will turn over better if you cut about 2 feet from the forward end of
> the line. Would this be correct?

For really big flies you might want to try a shorter piece of flat 12 weight
as a 'shooting' head although you'll probably not be shooting for range.

I haven't really had a chance to experiment this year. I was planning to
try some bigger flies hoping for bigger fish. The 4" jobs that seem to be
standard are smaller than many I use in the sea. Come the summer I intend
to try some 8" poppers.

Cheerio,

--
>>

[colin]

Take a look at www.pikeflyfishing.co.uk for all you need to know about pike
on the fly.

Colin

"Derek.Moody" > wrote in message
...
> In article >, Jim Murray
> > wrote:
> > A few questions on flyrodding for pike.
>
> A little OT here. X-posted & followups set to urf.coarse
>
> > 1. I have some 14lb. fluorocarbon line, would this make a good leader
> > material?
>
> Use something cheap and stiff. Really nasty cut-priced 15lb bs would be
my
> choice. Try not to have a hinge-point between the leader and the wire
> tippet. In other words use a knot that whips onto the wire rather than
any
> sort of loop to loop.
>
> > 2. Can you use a braided loop connector to join the line to the backing.
>
> Don't see why not though I tend to whip mine.
>
> > 3. I've bought a 8/9 intermediate sinking line. Have heard that the
(pike)
> > fly will turn over better if you cut about 2 feet from the forward end
of
> > the line. Would this be correct?
>
> For really big flies you might want to try a shorter piece of flat 12
weight
> as a 'shooting' head although you'll probably not be shooting for range.
>
> I haven't really had a chance to experiment this year. I was planning to
> try some bigger flies hoping for bigger fish. The 4" jobs that seem to be
> standard are smaller than many I use in the sea. Come the summer I intend
> to try some 8" poppers.
>
> Cheerio,
>
> --
> >>
>

[Jim Murray]

I've already been using short crimped traces with a small swivel to connect
to the leader and these work ok. Which knot would you use to whip nylon to
wire though?

Jim.

>
> Use something cheap and stiff. Really nasty cut-priced 15lb bs would be
my
> choice. Try not to have a hinge-point between the leader and the wire
> tippet. In other words use a knot that whips onto the wire rather than
any
> sort of loop to loop.

[Derek.Moody]

In article >, Jim Murray
> wrote:
> I've already been using short crimped traces with a small swivel to connect
> to the leader and these work ok. Which knot would you use to whip nylon to
> wire though?

Er, I expect it has a name but I don't recall it. I use the same knot
for spade end hooks or for eyed ones when I want them to stay in line.

For nylon to wire:

Fold the last centimeter of wire back on itself. Overlap the leader
end-to-end with the wire, fold it back on itself, whip four or five turns
over the four strands working towards the fold (now a loop) in the leader,
put the end through the loop and draw tight.

Cheerio,

--
>>