Hey Rodmaker

[Richard Liebert]

Hey Rodmaker:

A while ago you offered to help me with my bass rod building. I did not
forget your kind offer, but I have been waiting until I was really stumped
over something. Well, I'm stumped.

So far I have built two rods. Both kits from Mudhole. Mudhole was very
helpful and I think the kits I bought were a very good value. They came out
pretty good too. One was for my son, the other for his buddy. Both 6' 6"
Medium spinning rods using what I think were American blanks that were
rejected due to a problem with the decals. The blanks were really nice.Each
kit only cost $67 complete.

I built the first one matching the guide size and spacing found on my Loomis
GL3 783 MH. The rod works fine.

I built the second one exactly the same except I added a 5th guide. I did
the spacing half by eye and half by a formula that I more or less concocted
by measuring other rods that I own. I have fished the second rod a lot, it
looks and works great.

I am now preparing to build up a real Loomis 783MH IMX blank. I got a great
price on the blank. I want to match the guide sizing and spacing found on my
GL3 783 MH which is 5 guides plus the tip top, but the gentleman at the rod
shop (not Mudhole) told me I should add 2 additional guides. He suggested I
use a 30, 25, 16, 12, 10, 8, 7 plus a 7 tip top. My Loomis does not have a
30 or a 7, big difference. He says Loomis tries to save money by leaving
guides off and that the rod will be better with the additional guides.

I have a few hundred hours on my (5 guide) GL3 783 with no problems and
plenty of big fish. It seems to work great!

I am sure the gentleman at the rod shop has more experience than me, yet I
have read that beginners tend to use too many guides, so I am confused over
the conflicting rod building concepts.

What do you think I should do?

Also, do you have any good methods or formulas for spacing and sizing
guides? So far I have just copied an existing rod and/or done what looks
good to me.

Comments from anyone are welcome.

Rick Liebert

[Dave Norton]

Richard, I take it that this is one of Loomis's spinning blanks. From the
designation I believe you are referring to a 6'6'' blank. Please correct me
should I be wrong!

If this "is" a spinning blank the 1st or stripper guide from the reelseat
will depend on the reel
itself. This guide should be set about 2/3 from the tip. But this is just to
tune where this guide
belongs. You must perform a series of test casts to determine its final
position.

In this case I would start with a #20 guide if you are going to use a medium
to small reel.
To use Fugi's Concept guide system you need to put the reel on the
reelseat. Align the axis of the "reelspool" to a straight edge. Such as the
edge of a long table.

Where the rod blank ,and the axis of the center
of the reelspool align ,place a mark on the blank. This is where the choke
guide will go.
The choke guide should not be larger than a #7 or a #6 guide.

Between the 1st or stripper guide you can space the guides fairly evenly. A
#16,#12, #10.

Everything above the choke guide must not be larger than the choke guide.
Normally I will use a #7, or #8 choke guide and #6 guide to the tip.

Richard, you have built several rods now. Trust your eye. Don't put the 2nd
guide from the tip farther away than four inches, On spinning rods less is
better , since the tips are usually smaller in diameter.

Do not rely on any "formula" for guide spacing. They only allow for the
"least" amount of guides to support the line.

Always buys a couple of guides extra in the
smallest size you plan to use. You will need them.

Should any of this seem confusing, relax , contact me and I will be happy to
help you through it. It ain't rocket science, except to Al!

--
Dave Norton
Millennium Rods
"Richard Liebert" > wrote in message
...
> Hey Rodmaker:
>
> A while ago you offered to help me with my bass rod building. I did not
> forget your kind offer, but I have been waiting until I was really stumped
> over something. Well, I'm stumped.
>
> So far I have built two rods. Both kits from Mudhole. Mudhole was very
> helpful and I think the kits I bought were a very good value. They came
out
> pretty good too. One was for my son, the other for his buddy. Both 6' 6"
> Medium spinning rods using what I think were American blanks that were
> rejected due to a problem with the decals. The blanks were really
nice.Each
> kit only cost $67 complete.
>
> I built the first one matching the guide size and spacing found on my
Loomis
> GL3 783 MH. The rod works fine.
>
> I built the second one exactly the same except I added a 5th guide. I did
> the spacing half by eye and half by a formula that I more or less
concocted
> by measuring other rods that I own. I have fished the second rod a lot, it
> looks and works great.
>
> I am now preparing to build up a real Loomis 783MH IMX blank. I got a
great
> price on the blank. I want to match the guide sizing and spacing found on
my
> GL3 783 MH which is 5 guides plus the tip top, but the gentleman at the
rod
> shop (not Mudhole) told me I should add 2 additional guides. He suggested
I
> use a 30, 25, 16, 12, 10, 8, 7 plus a 7 tip top. My Loomis does not have a
> 30 or a 7, big difference. He says Loomis tries to save money by leaving
> guides off and that the rod will be better with the additional guides.
>
> I have a few hundred hours on my (5 guide) GL3 783 with no problems and
> plenty of big fish. It seems to work great!
>
> I am sure the gentleman at the rod shop has more experience than me, yet I
> have read that beginners tend to use too many guides, so I am confused
over
> the conflicting rod building concepts.
>
> What do you think I should do?
>
> Also, do you have any good methods or formulas for spacing and sizing
> guides? So far I have just copied an existing rod and/or done what looks
> good to me.
>
> Comments from anyone are welcome.
>
> Rick Liebert
>
>

[Richard Liebert]

Thanks for your input Dave, valuable information to me.
Can you tell me where I can get some more information about the Fuji Guide
System?


"Dave Norton" > wrote in message
...
> Richard, I take it that this is one of Loomis's spinning blanks. From the
> designation I believe you are referring to a 6'6'' blank. Please correct
me
> should I be wrong!
>
> If this "is" a spinning blank the 1st or stripper guide from the reelseat
> will depend on the reel
> itself. This guide should be set about 2/3 from the tip. But this is just
to
> tune where this guide
> belongs. You must perform a series of test casts to determine its final
> position.
>
> In this case I would start with a #20 guide if you are going to use a
medium
> to small reel.
> To use Fugi's Concept guide system you need to put the reel on the
> reelseat. Align the axis of the "reelspool" to a straight edge. Such as
the
> edge of a long table.
>
> Where the rod blank ,and the axis of the center
> of the reelspool align ,place a mark on the blank. This is where the choke
> guide will go.
> The choke guide should not be larger than a #7 or a #6 guide.
>
> Between the 1st or stripper guide you can space the guides fairly evenly.
A
> #16,#12, #10.
>
> Everything above the choke guide must not be larger than the choke guide.
> Normally I will use a #7, or #8 choke guide and #6 guide to the tip.
>
> Richard, you have built several rods now. Trust your eye. Don't put the
2nd
> guide from the tip farther away than four inches, On spinning rods less is
> better , since the tips are usually smaller in diameter.
>
> Do not rely on any "formula" for guide spacing. They only allow for the
> "least" amount of guides to support the line.
>
> Always buys a couple of guides extra in the
> smallest size you plan to use. You will need them.
>
> Should any of this seem confusing, relax , contact me and I will be happy
to
> help you through it. It ain't rocket science, except to Al!
>
> --
> Dave Norton
> Millennium Rods
> "Richard Liebert" > wrote in
message
> ...
> > Hey Rodmaker:
> >
> > A while ago you offered to help me with my bass rod building. I did not
> > forget your kind offer, but I have been waiting until I was really
stumped
> > over something. Well, I'm stumped.
> >
> > So far I have built two rods. Both kits from Mudhole. Mudhole was very
> > helpful and I think the kits I bought were a very good value. They came
> out
> > pretty good too. One was for my son, the other for his buddy. Both 6' 6"
> > Medium spinning rods using what I think were American blanks that were
> > rejected due to a problem with the decals. The blanks were really
> nice.Each
> > kit only cost $67 complete.
> >
> > I built the first one matching the guide size and spacing found on my
> Loomis
> > GL3 783 MH. The rod works fine.
> >
> > I built the second one exactly the same except I added a 5th guide. I
did
> > the spacing half by eye and half by a formula that I more or less
> concocted
> > by measuring other rods that I own. I have fished the second rod a lot,
it
> > looks and works great.
> >
> > I am now preparing to build up a real Loomis 783MH IMX blank. I got a
> great
> > price on the blank. I want to match the guide sizing and spacing found
on
> my
> > GL3 783 MH which is 5 guides plus the tip top, but the gentleman at the
> rod
> > shop (not Mudhole) told me I should add 2 additional guides. He
suggested
> I
> > use a 30, 25, 16, 12, 10, 8, 7 plus a 7 tip top. My Loomis does not have
a
> > 30 or a 7, big difference. He says Loomis tries to save money by leaving
> > guides off and that the rod will be better with the additional guides.
> >
> > I have a few hundred hours on my (5 guide) GL3 783 with no problems and
> > plenty of big fish. It seems to work great!
> >
> > I am sure the gentleman at the rod shop has more experience than me, yet
I
> > have read that beginners tend to use too many guides, so I am confused
> over
> > the conflicting rod building concepts.
> >
> > What do you think I should do?
> >
> > Also, do you have any good methods or formulas for spacing and sizing
> > guides? So far I have just copied an existing rod and/or done what looks
> > good to me.
> >
> > Comments from anyone are welcome.
> >
> > Rick Liebert
> >
> >
>
>

[Dave Norton]

Richard, here is a URL at Angler's Resources.
Hope this will give you some more insight into the Fuji Concept system.

http://www.anglersresource.net/Research/Anglers_Research%20Main.asp

Click on the link for concept guides.

--
Dave Norton
Millennium Rods
"Richard Liebert" > wrote in message
...
> Thanks for your input Dave, valuable information to me.
> Can you tell me where I can get some more information about the Fuji Guide
> System?
>
>
> "Dave Norton" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Richard, I take it that this is one of Loomis's spinning blanks. From
the
> > designation I believe you are referring to a 6'6'' blank. Please correct
> me
> > should I be wrong!
> >
> > If this "is" a spinning blank the 1st or stripper guide from the
reelseat
> > will depend on the reel
> > itself. This guide should be set about 2/3 from the tip. But this is
just
> to
> > tune where this guide
> > belongs. You must perform a series of test casts to determine its final
> > position.
> >
> > In this case I would start with a #20 guide if you are going to use a
> medium
> > to small reel.
> > To use Fugi's Concept guide system you need to put the reel on the
> > reelseat. Align the axis of the "reelspool" to a straight edge. Such as
> the
> > edge of a long table.
> >
> > Where the rod blank ,and the axis of the center
> > of the reelspool align ,place a mark on the blank. This is where the
choke
> > guide will go.
> > The choke guide should not be larger than a #7 or a #6 guide.
> >
> > Between the 1st or stripper guide you can space the guides fairly
evenly.
> A
> > #16,#12, #10.
> >
> > Everything above the choke guide must not be larger than the choke
guide.
> > Normally I will use a #7, or #8 choke guide and #6 guide to the tip.
> >
> > Richard, you have built several rods now. Trust your eye. Don't put the
> 2nd
> > guide from the tip farther away than four inches, On spinning rods less
is
> > better , since the tips are usually smaller in diameter.
> >
> > Do not rely on any "formula" for guide spacing. They only allow for the
> > "least" amount of guides to support the line.
> >
> > Always buys a couple of guides extra in the
> > smallest size you plan to use. You will need them.
> >
> > Should any of this seem confusing, relax , contact me and I will be
happy
> to
> > help you through it. It ain't rocket science, except to Al!
> >
> > --
> > Dave Norton
> > Millennium Rods
> > "Richard Liebert" > wrote in
> message
> > ...
> > > Hey Rodmaker:
> > >
> > > A while ago you offered to help me with my bass rod building. I did
not
> > > forget your kind offer, but I have been waiting until I was really
> stumped
> > > over something. Well, I'm stumped.
> > >
> > > So far I have built two rods. Both kits from Mudhole. Mudhole was very
> > > helpful and I think the kits I bought were a very good value. They
came
> > out
> > > pretty good too. One was for my son, the other for his buddy. Both 6'
6"
> > > Medium spinning rods using what I think were American blanks that were
> > > rejected due to a problem with the decals. The blanks were really
> > nice.Each
> > > kit only cost $67 complete.
> > >
> > > I built the first one matching the guide size and spacing found on my
> > Loomis
> > > GL3 783 MH. The rod works fine.
> > >
> > > I built the second one exactly the same except I added a 5th guide. I
> did
> > > the spacing half by eye and half by a formula that I more or less
> > concocted
> > > by measuring other rods that I own. I have fished the second rod a
lot,
> it
> > > looks and works great.
> > >
> > > I am now preparing to build up a real Loomis 783MH IMX blank. I got a
> > great
> > > price on the blank. I want to match the guide sizing and spacing found
> on
> > my
> > > GL3 783 MH which is 5 guides plus the tip top, but the gentleman at
the
> > rod
> > > shop (not Mudhole) told me I should add 2 additional guides. He
> suggested
> > I
> > > use a 30, 25, 16, 12, 10, 8, 7 plus a 7 tip top. My Loomis does not
have
> a
> > > 30 or a 7, big difference. He says Loomis tries to save money by
leaving
> > > guides off and that the rod will be better with the additional guides.
> > >
> > > I have a few hundred hours on my (5 guide) GL3 783 with no problems
and
> > > plenty of big fish. It seems to work great!
> > >
> > > I am sure the gentleman at the rod shop has more experience than me,
yet
> I
> > > have read that beginners tend to use too many guides, so I am confused
> > over
> > > the conflicting rod building concepts.
> > >
> > > What do you think I should do?
> > >
> > > Also, do you have any good methods or formulas for spacing and sizing
> > > guides? So far I have just copied an existing rod and/or done what
looks
> > > good to me.
> > >
> > > Comments from anyone are welcome.
> > >
> > > Rick Liebert
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

[[email protected]]

The gentleman at the counter is a little behind the times, we've always
known that the lighter the rod, the better the rod, the new concept system
isn't new, but Fuji put a name on it so I guess they have some claim to it.
The Loomis spacing is fine under most circumstances, but the guide selection
isn't from a performance standpoint, it leaves much to be desired.
Dave has put you on the right path there, what looks good to you and casts
the best for you is the best rod period. If your looking for performance,
and I sure would with an IMX blank, use the least amount of rod finish,
guides, wraps, cork, whatever that still gives you the casting and fish
fighting characteristics the blank can supply and you are happy with.
A gentle word of warning, the rod blank you have will last you a lifetime if
you treat it right, don't throw it in the rod locker, step on it, or "high
stick" it. Higher modulus graphite isn't more brittle as some think, but
there is less of it in the rod to do the same work, so it won't take the
abuse it wasn't designed for. Fish don't break rods, we do.
Rich Forhan the "revolver rod" guru would space you rod like this, in inches
from each other starting at the tip top which is a #6 BFAT or CFAT:
5-6-6-6-7-7-8 inches. Both of us would make the first four guides from the
tip top #6 BLAG or CLAG guides, than a 10, 12, 20 BYAG or CYAG guides, if
you using a spool diameter equivalent to a 2000-2500 reel size or smaller.
These are Fuji Alconite guides which give a lot of performance for the
money. If your tips tube diameter is less than 5, or 5/64" space the first
guide from the tip top at 4 1/2 inches.
The great thing is you just tape everything up and try different things
until you and the rod come to an agreement on what's best, and than you
build it that way.
Good Wraps partner, whatever you come up with will be better than an off the
rack rod, because you've made no compromises.

[go-bassn]

I just picked up 2 IMX casting rods, like new, for $200. They're 6 footers,
a bit shorter than I generally use, but I think they'll make great cranking
rods. One's MH & the other's M action. So exciting, my first Loomis' & the
price was less than 50% SRP.

Warren

> wrote in message
.net...
> The gentleman at the counter is a little behind the times, we've always
> known that the lighter the rod, the better the rod, the new concept system
> isn't new, but Fuji put a name on it so I guess they have some claim to
it.
> The Loomis spacing is fine under most circumstances, but the guide
selection
> isn't from a performance standpoint, it leaves much to be desired.
> Dave has put you on the right path there, what looks good to you and casts
> the best for you is the best rod period. If your looking for performance,
> and I sure would with an IMX blank, use the least amount of rod finish,
> guides, wraps, cork, whatever that still gives you the casting and fish
> fighting characteristics the blank can supply and you are happy with.
> A gentle word of warning, the rod blank you have will last you a lifetime
if
> you treat it right, don't throw it in the rod locker, step on it, or "high
> stick" it. Higher modulus graphite isn't more brittle as some think, but
> there is less of it in the rod to do the same work, so it won't take the
> abuse it wasn't designed for. Fish don't break rods, we do.
> Rich Forhan the "revolver rod" guru would space you rod like this, in
inches
> from each other starting at the tip top which is a #6 BFAT or CFAT:
> 5-6-6-6-7-7-8 inches. Both of us would make the first four guides from the
> tip top #6 BLAG or CLAG guides, than a 10, 12, 20 BYAG or CYAG guides, if
> you using a spool diameter equivalent to a 2000-2500 reel size or smaller.
> These are Fuji Alconite guides which give a lot of performance for the
> money. If your tips tube diameter is less than 5, or 5/64" space the first
> guide from the tip top at 4 1/2 inches.
> The great thing is you just tape everything up and try different things
> until you and the rod come to an agreement on what's best, and than you
> build it that way.
> Good Wraps partner, whatever you come up with will be better than an off
the
> rack rod, because you've made no compromises.

[Dave Norton]

Warren, you will find that those rods will suffer as crankin rods. Stick to
a 6'10'' to 7'0'' medium power /medium action for crankbaits. Those rods you
picked up would make very good spinnerbait rods. The medium action would be
a good topwater rod.

"go-bassn" > wrote in message
...
> I just picked up 2 IMX casting rods, like new, for $200. They're 6
footers,
> a bit shorter than I generally use, but I think they'll make great
cranking
> rods. One's MH & the other's M action. So exciting, my first Loomis' &
the
> price was less than 50% SRP.
>
> Warren
>
> > wrote in message
> .net...
> > The gentleman at the counter is a little behind the times, we've always
> > known that the lighter the rod, the better the rod, the new concept
system
> > isn't new, but Fuji put a name on it so I guess they have some claim to
> it.
> > The Loomis spacing is fine under most circumstances, but the guide
> selection
> > isn't from a performance standpoint, it leaves much to be desired.
> > Dave has put you on the right path there, what looks good to you and
casts
> > the best for you is the best rod period. If your looking for
performance,
> > and I sure would with an IMX blank, use the least amount of rod finish,
> > guides, wraps, cork, whatever that still gives you the casting and fish
> > fighting characteristics the blank can supply and you are happy with.
> > A gentle word of warning, the rod blank you have will last you a
lifetime
> if
> > you treat it right, don't throw it in the rod locker, step on it, or
"high
> > stick" it. Higher modulus graphite isn't more brittle as some think, but
> > there is less of it in the rod to do the same work, so it won't take the
> > abuse it wasn't designed for. Fish don't break rods, we do.
> > Rich Forhan the "revolver rod" guru would space you rod like this, in
> inches
> > from each other starting at the tip top which is a #6 BFAT or CFAT:
> > 5-6-6-6-7-7-8 inches. Both of us would make the first four guides from
the
> > tip top #6 BLAG or CLAG guides, than a 10, 12, 20 BYAG or CYAG guides,
if
> > you using a spool diameter equivalent to a 2000-2500 reel size or
smaller.
> > These are Fuji Alconite guides which give a lot of performance for the
> > money. If your tips tube diameter is less than 5, or 5/64" space the
first
> > guide from the tip top at 4 1/2 inches.
> > The great thing is you just tape everything up and try different things
> > until you and the rod come to an agreement on what's best, and than you
> > build it that way.
> > Good Wraps partner, whatever you come up with will be better than an off
> the
> > rack rod, because you've made no compromises.
>
>

[John M]

Warren,
If you need crankin rods, I'd consider selling these off and going with a
CBR series crankbait rod from loomis. The IMX rods are fast action, faster
recovery and the crankbait series (although still graphite) will give you a
more parabolic action and slower recovery. Plus you can jump up to 6'6 or 7'
for crankin. I have a 781, 783, 845, and 847 so let me know if you need
specifics on any of these. If you keep them, good luck they are fine rods
anyway.
John

"go-bassn" > wrote in message
...
> I just picked up 2 IMX casting rods, like new, for $200. They're 6
footers,
> a bit shorter than I generally use, but I think they'll make great
cranking
> rods. One's MH & the other's M action. So exciting, my first Loomis' &
the
> price was less than 50% SRP.
>
> Warren
>
> > wrote in message
> .net...
> > The gentleman at the counter is a little behind the times, we've always
> > known that the lighter the rod, the better the rod, the new concept
system
> > isn't new, but Fuji put a name on it so I guess they have some claim to
> it.
> > The Loomis spacing is fine under most circumstances, but the guide
> selection
> > isn't from a performance standpoint, it leaves much to be desired.
> > Dave has put you on the right path there, what looks good to you and
casts
> > the best for you is the best rod period. If your looking for
performance,
> > and I sure would with an IMX blank, use the least amount of rod finish,
> > guides, wraps, cork, whatever that still gives you the casting and fish
> > fighting characteristics the blank can supply and you are happy with.
> > A gentle word of warning, the rod blank you have will last you a
lifetime
> if
> > you treat it right, don't throw it in the rod locker, step on it, or
"high
> > stick" it. Higher modulus graphite isn't more brittle as some think, but
> > there is less of it in the rod to do the same work, so it won't take the
> > abuse it wasn't designed for. Fish don't break rods, we do.
> > Rich Forhan the "revolver rod" guru would space you rod like this, in
> inches
> > from each other starting at the tip top which is a #6 BFAT or CFAT:
> > 5-6-6-6-7-7-8 inches. Both of us would make the first four guides from
the
> > tip top #6 BLAG or CLAG guides, than a 10, 12, 20 BYAG or CYAG guides,
if
> > you using a spool diameter equivalent to a 2000-2500 reel size or
smaller.
> > These are Fuji Alconite guides which give a lot of performance for the
> > money. If your tips tube diameter is less than 5, or 5/64" space the
first
> > guide from the tip top at 4 1/2 inches.
> > The great thing is you just tape everything up and try different things
> > until you and the rod come to an agreement on what's best, and than you
> > build it that way.
> > Good Wraps partner, whatever you come up with will be better than an off
> the
> > rack rod, because you've made no compromises.
>
>

[AJH]

Rodmaker, would you explain the difference between action and
power..thanks





I fish therefore I lie

[go-bassn]

Hey thanks for the advice John. I have much to learn about crankin, & I
must learn it all asap. What kind of tip do you recommend, I thought fast
was the way to go. How much are the CBR's? Oh, is there a practical use
for my 2 6-footers? Thanks again in advance.

Warren
--
http://www.fishingworld.com/MesaTackleSupply/
http://www.outdoorfrontiers.com http://www.secretweaponlures.com
http://warrenwolk.com/ http://www.tri-statebassmasters.com/

"John M" > wrote in message
. net...
> Warren,
> If you need crankin rods, I'd consider selling these off and going with a
> CBR series crankbait rod from loomis. The IMX rods are fast action, faster
> recovery and the crankbait series (although still graphite) will give you
a
> more parabolic action and slower recovery. Plus you can jump up to 6'6 or
7'
> for crankin. I have a 781, 783, 845, and 847 so let me know if you need
> specifics on any of these. If you keep them, good luck they are fine rods
> anyway.
> John
>
> "go-bassn" > wrote in message
> ...
> > I just picked up 2 IMX casting rods, like new, for $200. They're 6
> footers,
> > a bit shorter than I generally use, but I think they'll make great
> cranking
> > rods. One's MH & the other's M action. So exciting, my first Loomis' &
> the
> > price was less than 50% SRP.
> >
> > Warren
> >
> > > wrote in message
> > .net...
> > > The gentleman at the counter is a little behind the times, we've
always
> > > known that the lighter the rod, the better the rod, the new concept
> system
> > > isn't new, but Fuji put a name on it so I guess they have some claim
to
> > it.
> > > The Loomis spacing is fine under most circumstances, but the guide
> > selection
> > > isn't from a performance standpoint, it leaves much to be desired.
> > > Dave has put you on the right path there, what looks good to you and
> casts
> > > the best for you is the best rod period. If your looking for
> performance,
> > > and I sure would with an IMX blank, use the least amount of rod
finish,
> > > guides, wraps, cork, whatever that still gives you the casting and
fish
> > > fighting characteristics the blank can supply and you are happy with.
> > > A gentle word of warning, the rod blank you have will last you a
> lifetime
> > if
> > > you treat it right, don't throw it in the rod locker, step on it, or
> "high
> > > stick" it. Higher modulus graphite isn't more brittle as some think,
but
> > > there is less of it in the rod to do the same work, so it won't take
the
> > > abuse it wasn't designed for. Fish don't break rods, we do.
> > > Rich Forhan the "revolver rod" guru would space you rod like this, in
> > inches
> > > from each other starting at the tip top which is a #6 BFAT or CFAT:
> > > 5-6-6-6-7-7-8 inches. Both of us would make the first four guides from
> the
> > > tip top #6 BLAG or CLAG guides, than a 10, 12, 20 BYAG or CYAG guides,
> if
> > > you using a spool diameter equivalent to a 2000-2500 reel size or
> smaller.
> > > These are Fuji Alconite guides which give a lot of performance for the
> > > money. If your tips tube diameter is less than 5, or 5/64" space the
> first
> > > guide from the tip top at 4 1/2 inches.
> > > The great thing is you just tape everything up and try different
things
> > > until you and the rod come to an agreement on what's best, and than
you
> > > build it that way.
> > > Good Wraps partner, whatever you come up with will be better than an
off
> > the
> > > rack rod, because you've made no compromises.
> >
> >
>
>

[John M]

They might make good spinnerbait, topwater, or maybe jerkbait rods (although
I'd go with a slower rod for these too, just my opinion). Everyone has their
preference, for cranking I prefer rods with a slower tip, more parabolic
action. Basically if you bend the rod, it flexes more to the middle, as
opposed to a faster tip rod that has maybe 20-30% tip and the rest backbone.
I prefer fast action rods for lures like worms, tubes, super flukes, etc. I
use crankbait rods for fast moving lures like cranks, jerks, spinnerbaits,
etc.

The CBRs run a little less than the IMX rods, but they are graphite. Check
eBay for deals. You can get them for at least $50 off retail. If you want
CBR rods I recommend the 783 6'6, and the 845 7' , very versatile rods.
John


"go-bassn" > wrote in message
...
> Hey thanks for the advice John. I have much to learn about crankin, & I
> must learn it all asap. What kind of tip do you recommend, I thought fast
> was the way to go. How much are the CBR's? Oh, is there a practical use
> for my 2 6-footers? Thanks again in advance.
>
> Warren
> --
> http://www.fishingworld.com/MesaTackleSupply/
> http://www.outdoorfrontiers.com http://www.secretweaponlures.com
> http://warrenwolk.com/ http://www.tri-statebassmasters.com/
>
> "John M" > wrote in message
> . net...
> > Warren,
> > If you need crankin rods, I'd consider selling these off and going with
a
> > CBR series crankbait rod from loomis. The IMX rods are fast action,
faster
> > recovery and the crankbait series (although still graphite) will give
you
> a
> > more parabolic action and slower recovery. Plus you can jump up to 6'6
or
> 7'
> > for crankin. I have a 781, 783, 845, and 847 so let me know if you need
> > specifics on any of these. If you keep them, good luck they are fine
rods
> > anyway.
> > John
> >
> > "go-bassn" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > > I just picked up 2 IMX casting rods, like new, for $200. They're 6
> > footers,
> > > a bit shorter than I generally use, but I think they'll make great
> > cranking
> > > rods. One's MH & the other's M action. So exciting, my first Loomis'
&
> > the
> > > price was less than 50% SRP.
> > >
> > > Warren
> > >
> > > > wrote in message
> > > .net...
> > > > The gentleman at the counter is a little behind the times, we've
> always
> > > > known that the lighter the rod, the better the rod, the new concept
> > system
> > > > isn't new, but Fuji put a name on it so I guess they have some claim
> to
> > > it.
> > > > The Loomis spacing is fine under most circumstances, but the guide
> > > selection
> > > > isn't from a performance standpoint, it leaves much to be desired.
> > > > Dave has put you on the right path there, what looks good to you and
> > casts
> > > > the best for you is the best rod period. If your looking for
> > performance,
> > > > and I sure would with an IMX blank, use the least amount of rod
> finish,
> > > > guides, wraps, cork, whatever that still gives you the casting and
> fish
> > > > fighting characteristics the blank can supply and you are happy
with.
> > > > A gentle word of warning, the rod blank you have will last you a
> > lifetime
> > > if
> > > > you treat it right, don't throw it in the rod locker, step on it, or
> > "high
> > > > stick" it. Higher modulus graphite isn't more brittle as some think,
> but
> > > > there is less of it in the rod to do the same work, so it won't take
> the
> > > > abuse it wasn't designed for. Fish don't break rods, we do.
> > > > Rich Forhan the "revolver rod" guru would space you rod like this,
in
> > > inches
> > > > from each other starting at the tip top which is a #6 BFAT or CFAT:
> > > > 5-6-6-6-7-7-8 inches. Both of us would make the first four guides
from
> > the
> > > > tip top #6 BLAG or CLAG guides, than a 10, 12, 20 BYAG or CYAG
guides,
> > if
> > > > you using a spool diameter equivalent to a 2000-2500 reel size or
> > smaller.
> > > > These are Fuji Alconite guides which give a lot of performance for
the
> > > > money. If your tips tube diameter is less than 5, or 5/64" space the
> > first
> > > > guide from the tip top at 4 1/2 inches.
> > > > The great thing is you just tape everything up and try different
> things
> > > > until you and the rod come to an agreement on what's best, and than
> you
> > > > build it that way.
> > > > Good Wraps partner, whatever you come up with will be better than an
> off
> > > the
> > > > rack rod, because you've made no compromises.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>