bow mounted electric trolling motor

[phil caruso]

Hi

Need help with a buying decision for a 14ft aluminum starcraft. Need a
bow-mounted electric trolling motor (12V). Looking at Minn kota.
Foot control or hand op? Any ideas would be great

Thanks
Phil

[Da Chief]

I'm not familiar with this boat. If it has no casting platform, definitely a
hand operated model. If its got a casting platform, then you're absolutely
correct- you must make a choice. There's pros and cons for both. I hate
having my leg hiked up by a high foot pedal. When I get the next boat I will
have either a recessed pedal or one of them "fancy" remote kind with the
"flat" controls. Or, I might opt for the hand operated and sink the extra
bucks saved into better electronics. Or, I might have my registration
numbers painted on, instead of wally-world stick ons. Or, I might buy enough
rods to fill both lockers. Or, ......... Aagh!!!! Enough of this madness!
I'm gettin it all when time comes for the new boat ;)
--
Shelby Foles,

[Bill Kiene]

Hi Phil,

I would buy the largest/strongest size 12 volt which is 55# of thrust.

If you can build a flat front deck between your middle seat and front, then
you will have a place to stand or sit on a pedestal seat. You can usually
put the large 12 volt deep cycle battery under this deck to get it forward
and out of the way.

Most bass fishers use foot control but if you can't make that work, a
reversed tiller steer should work.

I was recently on the east central coast of Florida and noticed they use
hand controlled bow mounted motors on their bay boats around the "Space
Coast" area.

Around my area, northern California, we fly fish from small/medium size
boats for stripers in flat, slow rivers, the Sacramento Delta and
reservoirs. We prefer the Minn Kota "Auto Pilot" model.


--
Bill Kiene

Kiene's Fly Shop
Sacramento, CA
www.kiene.com

"phil caruso" > wrote in message
...
> Hi
>
> Need help with a buying decision for a 14ft aluminum starcraft. Need a
> bow-mounted electric trolling motor (12V). Looking at Minn kota.
> Foot control or hand op? Any ideas would be great
>
> Thanks
> Phil
>

[RichZ]

Phil wrote:
> Need a
> bow-mounted electric trolling motor (12V). Looking at Minn kota.
> Foot control or hand op? Any ideas would be great
>

If it's me, I put on a 55 lb thrust Minnkota Power Drive with the wireless
CoPilot option.

The short bowmount of the powerdrive series motors makes them a favorite
for mounting on 'non-bassboat' hulls. I always hated these motors though,
until I added the copilot to mine. Now, I'd never go back to a foot control
again. The copilot remote makes the motor function like a hand control that
you never have to reach for. If everything I owned did its job as well as
that Minnkota motor with the copilot, I'd be a very happ7y man.

RichZ©
www.richz.com/fishing

[Calif Bill]

"RichZ" > wrote in message
...
> Phil wrote:
> > Need a
> > bow-mounted electric trolling motor (12V). Looking at Minn kota.
> > Foot control or hand op? Any ideas would be great
> >
>
> If it's me, I put on a 55 lb thrust Minnkota Power Drive with the wireless
> CoPilot option.
>
> The short bowmount of the powerdrive series motors makes them a favorite
> for mounting on 'non-bassboat' hulls. I always hated these motors though,
> until I added the copilot to mine. Now, I'd never go back to a foot
control
> again. The copilot remote makes the motor function like a hand control
that
> you never have to reach for. If everything I owned did its job as well as
> that Minnkota motor with the copilot, I'd be a very happ7y man.
>
> RichZ©
> www.richz.com/fishing
>

I run a MK 65 AP. Love the autopilot feature. When running a long rockwall
I can just set the direction and run with the AP. If not running long
areas, just run as a powerdrive. My older MK cable drive was a pain as I
always had to be on the pedal. If not, the motor went to the side. Gave me
leg and back pains. The electric drive stays where you set it. Have though
of getting the copilot. Suny's Electric in Sacramento makes a hand control
that is cable connected.
Bill

Bill

[Dan, danl, danny boy, Redbeard, actually Greybeard]

On Mon, 20 Oct 2003 09:46:58 -0400, phil caruso
> sent into the ether:

>Hi
>
>Need help with a buying decision for a 14ft aluminum starcraft. Need a
>bow-mounted electric trolling motor (12V). Looking at Minn kota.
>Foot control or hand op? Any ideas would be great
>
>Thanks
>Phil


Phil, I have a 14" alum Crestliner. It was a 4 seater and when I got
it the 4th seat was gone. I removed the small bow cap and installed a
piece of plywood and covered it with a sheet of 0.40 alum, glued on
top and 1/16" alum angle for the edging. I screwed this directly into
the top of the gunnal(sp). I mounted my Minn trolling motor onto this
with a Minn slide mount. I have the wired electronic foot pedal, at
the moment on a 765MXT and can operate from the back or front of the
boat. I can operate for several days of light to medium use without a
charge if necessary. The 765 id a 35 or 40# thrust, I can't remember
which. Get the Minnkota brand, they are the best!! A 50# thrust
would move you along very well indeed. Under the bow platform I used
the brackets from the 4th seat to mount a another piece of plywood for
the battery mount. I usually fish alone and having the battery under
this platform works well. I installed a small carpet covered plywood
floor between the first front seat and this platform. It is lower
than the bench seat, so sitting on the seat I have on the bench is
comfortable and you can stand up, without feeling like you are getting
too tippy or sit down. After this first bench seat and running to the
next bench I installed a piece of carpet covered plywood and installed
a home made live well under it. I bedded the live well, actually a 15
gallon Rubbermaid storage container, in Silicone sealant to prevent it
rubbing on the alum and wearing through the hull. I then installed a
lowered carpet covered plywood floor between the 2nd bench and the
drivers bench. On the drivers bench I mounted a 5 or 6" tall box and
mounted the seat on it. It helps me to see over the person in the
front seat when I am driving. I also offset this seat so I could
operate the tiller comfortably. This is offset by the gas tank on the
other side.

Now, for some caveats on installation. Use as light a plywood and you
can to keep weight down. I used 3/8 for the floors and mid deck with
2x2" stringers to re-enforce it. Looking back, I would run the
plywood for the center section over the top of the benches and use
alum angle for strength. I would also fiberglass resin all plywood to
waterproof it. Spend the money on a good, large live well.
The 15 gallon I used is too small, if I fish an all species tourney, I
have to let large Northerns go :<{ Get the largest pump you can for
the livewell feed and don't forget to install an overflow outlet above
the waterline of the hull. If your boat is old, like mine, you might
have trouble with leaking rivets. When I redo my boat, I will epoxy
all rivets under the seats and any other installations. You might
also want to back the bare boat into the water while still attached to
the trailer. This will allow you to see any leaks and epoxy them.
Use a wire wheel and non-residue solvent to clean alum before epoxy
application. ALWAYS pad any surface that comes in contact with the
alum hull. Plywood and other surfaces will rub through the alum. I
made my floors to lift out easily for cleaning and maintenance. Don't
forget to tightly secure the battery to its platform. I use cheap
carpet samples under the gas tank and anchors that sit in the area
between the last seat and the transom. It helps sound proof and
protect the alum hull.

I hope this helps, feel free to e-mail me for any other questions or
suggestions.
danl
Good fishing, great catching
www.outdoorfrontiers.com
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