On Wed, 16 Feb 2005 08:16:32 -0600, "Joe Haubenreich" rofbmail (at)
secretweaponlures (dot) com wrote:

My question would be, why would you really need an elevated casting deck...
for flipping? A V-hull boat tilts easier than a wide-bottom jon-boat, so if
I were going to tackle a project like that, I'd rig it like Jim Laumann's
V-hull.... with a floor attached directly to the ribs that makes standing
and moving around the boat more comfortable while maintaining a low center
of gravity.

I fished with Jim on Boom Lake at the NWClassic, and his boat was very
comfortable and fishable. He had built-in storage, plus everything was
positioned so it was in easy reach.

Joe

Those are some very kind words you have for my "old lady" of a boat. I
have been doing more looking at re-build of mine - thanks BTW for all
the links you posted a while back.

Henry

What I've got is your basic 16' V hull aluminum w/ a factory floor.
Bench seats fore & aft w/ "chair seats", the mid section seat was
factory swapped out for a couple of storage boxes - they are not dry -
nothing on my boat can be considered dry.

My wiring is all cobbled together - individual runs of wire & inline
fuses, all connecting to the battery w/ alligator clips. My "live
well" is a ice chest I got for nothing at a yard sale, added a small
areator I found at the local fishing emporium and a ice cream bucket
to fill it.

One deficency I find in my boat is its construction - the two prev
mentioned bench seats are what hold the hull together (side to side) -
there is no stern/transome rib like I see in the newer aluminum boats
- so I have to keep the benches there for strength - eats up floor
space.

Mine desperately needs the bow section of floor replaced. I would
also like a rod locker & a real live well, but floor space is an
issue. I think I can get the rod locker in by taking out both facotry
storage boxes - the live well is a question yet. A 24V bow mount
trolling motor is on the want list, as is a bow mt sonar (got one on
the rear end right now).

One thing my boats previous owner did was to position the gas tank (6
gal) in the bow, as far forward as possible. This does help the boat
get on plane better - espec. when I am alone. I am thinking that
putting the batteries up front for a bow mount motor will help w/ the
plane issue too.

I have a transom mt trolling motor - its battery and the battery for
the gas motor (tiller) are in the rear end - right now in plastic
battery boxes. Am thinking I could build a couple compartments for the
battery boxes and other odds and ends.

One thing I will do - is I will keep the use of wood in the rebuild to
a minimum. Get as much of the framing and "plating" built w/ aluminum
as I can - it doesn't rot and it is a bunch lighter. Look in area area
for metal supply houses - get something in the range of 1/16 - 3/32"
thick. You can cut plate w/ a circular saw and a fine tooth blade,
like a plywood blade - just reverse the blade direction. Make sure you
wear eye and ear protection....

Will run any wiring in 3/4" pvc conduit under the floor - to protect
it from chaffing and getting pinched.

Cardboard and duck tape are great planing / layout tools - so is
pencil and paper

Last thing I can add is look at Cabela's web site - lots of boat
goodies there. Toying w/ popping some holes in the floor and
putting some "hatch covers" in - either for access to wiring &/
plumbing, or maybe storage.

Jim

On Wed, 16 Feb 2005 08:16:32 -0600, "Joe Haubenreich" rofbmail (at)
secretweaponlures (dot) com wrote:

My question would be, why would you really need an elevated casting deck...
for flipping? A V-hull boat tilts easier than a wide-bottom jon-boat, so if
I were going to tackle a project like that, I'd rig it like Jim Laumann's
V-hull.... with a floor attached directly to the ribs that makes standing
and moving around the boat more comfortable while maintaining a low center
of gravity.

I fished with Jim on Boom Lake at the NWClassic, and his boat was very
comfortable and fishable. He had built-in storage, plus everything was
positioned so it was in easy reach.

Joe

Those are some very kind words you have for my "old lady" of a boat. I
have been doing more looking at re-build of mine - thanks BTW for all
the links you posted a while back.

Henry

What I've got is your basic 16' V hull aluminum w/ a factory floor.
Bench seats fore & aft w/ "chair seats", the mid section seat was
factory swapped out for a couple of storage boxes - they are not dry -
nothing on my boat can be considered dry.

My wiring is all cobbled together - individual runs of wire & inline
fuses, all connecting to the battery w/ alligator clips. My "live
well" is a ice chest I got for nothing at a yard sale, added a small
areator I found at the local fishing emporium and a ice cream bucket
to fill it.

One deficency I find in my boat is its construction - the two prev
mentioned bench seats are what hold the hull together (side to side) -
there is no stern/transome rib like I see in the newer aluminum boats
- so I have to keep the benches there for strength - eats up floor
space.

Mine desperately needs the bow section of floor replaced. I would
also like a rod locker & a real live well, but floor space is an
issue. I think I can get the rod locker in by taking out both facotry
storage boxes - the live well is a question yet. A 24V bow mount
trolling motor is on the want list, as is a bow mt sonar (got one on
the rear end right now).

One thing my boats previous owner did was to position the gas tank (6
gal) in the bow, as far forward as possible. This does help the boat
get on plane better - espec. when I am alone. I am thinking that
putting the batteries up front for a bow mount motor will help w/ the
plane issue too.

I have a transom mt trolling motor - its battery and the battery for
the gas motor (tiller) are in the rear end - right now in plastic
battery boxes. Am thinking I could build a couple compartments for the
battery boxes and other odds and ends.

One thing I will do - is I will keep the use of wood in the rebuild to
a minimum. Get as much of the framing and "plating" built w/ aluminum
as I can - it doesn't rot and it is a bunch lighter. Look in area area
for metal supply houses - get something in the range of 1/16 - 3/32"
thick. You can cut plate w/ a circular saw and a fine tooth blade,
like a plywood blade - just reverse the blade direction. Make sure you
wear eye and ear protection....

Will run any wiring in 3/4" pvc conduit under the floor - to protect
it from chaffing and getting pinched.

Cardboard and duck tape are great planing / layout tools - so is
pencil and paper

Last thing I can add is look at Cabela's web site - lots of boat
goodies there. Toying w/ popping some holes in the floor and
putting some "hatch covers" in - either for access to wiring &/
plumbing, or maybe storage.

Jim

I think Lausen was bought out by Tecumseh. A Tecumseh engine dealer might
be able to help you.

Bob La Londe
www.YumaBassMan.com



"Henry Hefner" wrote in message
...
Bob La Londe wrote:
Did you go to the parts department? I have a sears motor made in the
1950s
that I was abel to get some carb parts for through the Sears parts
department.

I was also able to find some through Cherry soemthing or other small
engines.

And of course... Google is your friend, Just need to find out who made
the
carb for the motor. I'm sure it was made by some regualr small engine
or
carb comapny.

I went to their big parts and repair place. All internal parts are
available, but the body is damaged on this one. I was told that the
motor is made by Tecumseh, so maybe I can find something there. The carb
itself has stamped on it: "Lausen Power Products" and either Crafton,
Wis. or Grafton, Wis. also the numbers 349 and 1014. I will email your
father, thanks.

On Wed, 16 Feb 2005 08:17:17 -0600, Henry Hefner
sent into the ether:

Dan, danl, danny boy, Redbeard, actually Greybeard now wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 21:49:41 -0600, Henry Hefner
sent into the ether:


Bob La Londe wrote:

How you progressing on that tin boat project?

Bob La Londe
www.yumabassman.com



Without much free time from work, it will be a looong process. I will
probably be fished quite a bit as is. However, I did find a little time
Sunday afternoon to drag it to the lake with a trolling motor and check
it for stability. The deck will probably have to be lower than I would
originally have liked, unless, hmmmm.... Maybe if I added a little
weight at the bow against the bottom? Maybe that would compensate for
someone standing higher? I'll have to throw a couple of sandbags in and
try walking on the seats. First though, I need to find a carb for a
1985 Gamefisher 5HP. I found out yesterday they are no longer available
through Sears. Ouch.

Henry,
As much as I hate to say it, I don't think any option will make it
stable with a high deck. A lower deck for casting is the best option.
A higher deck enabling a livewell and storage is good but in my 14' I
do not like standing on the higher deck, it just is too narrow for a
stable high platform. Have you decieded where you are going to store
the battery?

Remove the x for e-mail reply
www.outdoorfrontiers.com
www.SecretWeaponLures.com

I think you are right about the deck, the question is, How high is high?

Henry, I do not think a decl above the interior line would be to your
liking in the long run. Do you plan on having more than two people in
the boat? If it's only you and one other you can build frameworks and
decking between the second and third seats or remove the second and
third seats and put in some ribs for stifiners and deck it for
livewell and other storage. Mount the front seat on that and your
seat on the rear bench. Did you check out the parts place I told you
about?

I would like to have some storage, or why bother with adding anything? I
would like the battery towards the front somewhere, from a handyman's
point of view I've never liked the idea of a battery and wiring
connections next to a fuel tank. And guess where most people keep fire
extinguishers? right where they COULDN'T get to them if there was a fire.
Now, all you people who have extinguishers in cabinets above your
stoves, take them down and put them under the sink. NOW.


Remove the x for e-mail reply
www.outdoorfrontiers.com
www.SecretWeaponLures.com

On Wed, 16 Feb 2005 08:10:56 -0600, Henry Hefner
sent into the ether:

Bob La Londe wrote:
Did you go to the parts department? I have a sears motor made in the 1950s
that I was abel to get some carb parts for through the Sears parts
department.

I was also able to find some through Cherry soemthing or other small
engines.

And of course... Google is your friend, Just need to find out who made the
carb for the motor. I'm sure it was made by some regualr small engine or
carb comapny.

I went to their big parts and repair place. All internal parts are
available, but the body is damaged on this one. I was told that the
motor is made by Tecumseh, so maybe I can find something there. The carb
itself has stamped on it: "Lausen Power Products" and either Crafton,
Wis. or Grafton, Wis. also the numbers 349 and 1014. I will email your
father, thanks.

That's Grafton, WI

Remove the x for e-mail reply
www.outdoorfrontiers.com
www.SecretWeaponLures.com

On Wed, 16 Feb 2005 17:04:44 -0600, "Dan, danl, danny boy, Redbeard,
actually Greybeard now" sent into the ether:

On Wed, 16 Feb 2005 08:17:17 -0600, Henry Hefner
sent into the ether:

Dan, danl, danny boy, Redbeard, actually Greybeard now wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 21:49:41 -0600, Henry Hefner
sent into the ether:


Bob La Londe wrote:

How you progressing on that tin boat project?

Bob La Londe
www.yumabassman.com



Without much free time from work, it will be a looong process. I will
probably be fished quite a bit as is. However, I did find a little time
Sunday afternoon to drag it to the lake with a trolling motor and check
it for stability. The deck will probably have to be lower than I would
originally have liked, unless, hmmmm.... Maybe if I added a little
weight at the bow against the bottom? Maybe that would compensate for
someone standing higher? I'll have to throw a couple of sandbags in and
try walking on the seats. First though, I need to find a carb for a
1985 Gamefisher 5HP. I found out yesterday they are no longer available
through Sears. Ouch.

Henry,
As much as I hate to say it, I don't think any option will make it
stable with a high deck. A lower deck for casting is the best option.
A higher deck enabling a livewell and storage is good but in my 14' I
do not like standing on the higher deck, it just is too narrow for a
stable high platform. Have you decieded where you are going to store
the battery?

Remove the x for e-mail reply
www.outdoorfrontiers.com
www.SecretWeaponLures.com

I think you are right about the deck, the question is, How high is high?

Henry, I do not think a decl above the interior line
SHOULD READ INTERIOR BLUE LINE
would be to your liking in the long run. Do you plan on having more than two people in
the boat? If it's only you and one other you can build frameworks and
decking between the second and third seats or remove the second and
third seats and put in some ribs for stifiners and deck it for
livewell and other storage. Mount the front seat on that and your
seat on the rear bench. Did you check out the parts place I told you
about?

I would like to have some storage, or why bother with adding anything? I
would like the battery towards the front somewhere, from a handyman's
point of view I've never liked the idea of a battery and wiring
connections next to a fuel tank. And guess where most people keep fire
extinguishers? right where they COULDN'T get to them if there was a fire.
Now, all you people who have extinguishers in cabinets above your
stoves, take them down and put them under the sink. NOW.


Remove the x for e-mail reply
www.outdoorfrontiers.com
www.SecretWeaponLures.com


Remove the x for e-mail reply
www.outdoorfrontiers.com
www.SecretWeaponLures.com

Jim Laumann wrote:
On Wed, 16 Feb 2005 08:16:32 -0600, "Joe Haubenreich" rofbmail (at)
secretweaponlures (dot) com wrote:


My question would be, why would you really need an elevated casting deck...
for flipping? A V-hull boat tilts easier than a wide-bottom jon-boat, so if
I were going to tackle a project like that, I'd rig it like Jim Laumann's
V-hull.... with a floor attached directly to the ribs that makes standing
and moving around the boat more comfortable while maintaining a low center
of gravity.

I fished with Jim on Boom Lake at the NWClassic, and his boat was very
comfortable and fishable. He had built-in storage, plus everything was
positioned so it was in easy reach.


Joe

Those are some very kind words you have for my "old lady" of a boat. I
have been doing more looking at re-build of mine - thanks BTW for all
the links you posted a while back.

Henry

What I've got is your basic 16' V hull aluminum w/ a factory floor.
Bench seats fore & aft w/ "chair seats", the mid section seat was
factory swapped out for a couple of storage boxes - they are not dry -
nothing on my boat can be considered dry.

My wiring is all cobbled together - individual runs of wire & inline
fuses, all connecting to the battery w/ alligator clips. My "live
well" is a ice chest I got for nothing at a yard sale, added a small
areator I found at the local fishing emporium and a ice cream bucket
to fill it.

One deficency I find in my boat is its construction - the two prev
mentioned bench seats are what hold the hull together (side to side) -
there is no stern/transome rib like I see in the newer aluminum boats
- so I have to keep the benches there for strength - eats up floor
space.

Mine desperately needs the bow section of floor replaced. I would
also like a rod locker & a real live well, but floor space is an
issue. I think I can get the rod locker in by taking out both facotry
storage boxes - the live well is a question yet. A 24V bow mount
trolling motor is on the want list, as is a bow mt sonar (got one on
the rear end right now).

One thing my boats previous owner did was to position the gas tank (6
gal) in the bow, as far forward as possible. This does help the boat
get on plane better - espec. when I am alone. I am thinking that
putting the batteries up front for a bow mount motor will help w/ the
plane issue too.

I have a transom mt trolling motor - its battery and the battery for
the gas motor (tiller) are in the rear end - right now in plastic
battery boxes. Am thinking I could build a couple compartments for the
battery boxes and other odds and ends.

One thing I will do - is I will keep the use of wood in the rebuild to
a minimum. Get as much of the framing and "plating" built w/ aluminum
as I can - it doesn't rot and it is a bunch lighter. Look in area area
for metal supply houses - get something in the range of 1/16 - 3/32"
thick. You can cut plate w/ a circular saw and a fine tooth blade,
like a plywood blade - just reverse the blade direction. Make sure you
wear eye and ear protection....

Will run any wiring in 3/4" pvc conduit under the floor - to protect
it from chaffing and getting pinched.

Cardboard and duck tape are great planing / layout tools - so is
pencil and paper

Last thing I can add is look at Cabela's web site - lots of boat
goodies there. Toying w/ popping some holes in the floor and
putting some "hatch covers" in - either for access to wiring &/
plumbing, or maybe storage.

Jim



Thanks, Jim. If you have any digital pics, email 'em to
if you are so inclined.
1/16 - 3/32 sounds thin to me to span any real distance. I'll have to
get a piece and test it out. And a tip for REALLY cheap aluminum. Lots
of people sell usable pieces to scrap dealers, who will usually sell to
you for their normal markup per pound.
I have an idea in my head now for alternative rod storage. If it comes
to anything, I'll take pics and post a link.

Jim Laumann wrote:
On Wed, 16 Feb 2005 08:16:32 -0600, "Joe Haubenreich" rofbmail (at)
secretweaponlures (dot) com wrote:


My question would be, why would you really need an elevated casting deck...
for flipping? A V-hull boat tilts easier than a wide-bottom jon-boat, so if
I were going to tackle a project like that, I'd rig it like Jim Laumann's
V-hull.... with a floor attached directly to the ribs that makes standing
and moving around the boat more comfortable while maintaining a low center
of gravity.

I fished with Jim on Boom Lake at the NWClassic, and his boat was very
comfortable and fishable. He had built-in storage, plus everything was
positioned so it was in easy reach.


Joe

Those are some very kind words you have for my "old lady" of a boat. I
have been doing more looking at re-build of mine - thanks BTW for all
the links you posted a while back.

Henry

What I've got is your basic 16' V hull aluminum w/ a factory floor.
Bench seats fore & aft w/ "chair seats", the mid section seat was
factory swapped out for a couple of storage boxes - they are not dry -
nothing on my boat can be considered dry.

My wiring is all cobbled together - individual runs of wire & inline
fuses, all connecting to the battery w/ alligator clips. My "live
well" is a ice chest I got for nothing at a yard sale, added a small
areator I found at the local fishing emporium and a ice cream bucket
to fill it.

One deficency I find in my boat is its construction - the two prev
mentioned bench seats are what hold the hull together (side to side) -
there is no stern/transome rib like I see in the newer aluminum boats
- so I have to keep the benches there for strength - eats up floor
space.

Mine desperately needs the bow section of floor replaced. I would
also like a rod locker & a real live well, but floor space is an
issue. I think I can get the rod locker in by taking out both facotry
storage boxes - the live well is a question yet. A 24V bow mount
trolling motor is on the want list, as is a bow mt sonar (got one on
the rear end right now).

One thing my boats previous owner did was to position the gas tank (6
gal) in the bow, as far forward as possible. This does help the boat
get on plane better - espec. when I am alone. I am thinking that
putting the batteries up front for a bow mount motor will help w/ the
plane issue too.

I have a transom mt trolling motor - its battery and the battery for
the gas motor (tiller) are in the rear end - right now in plastic
battery boxes. Am thinking I could build a couple compartments for the
battery boxes and other odds and ends.

One thing I will do - is I will keep the use of wood in the rebuild to
a minimum. Get as much of the framing and "plating" built w/ aluminum
as I can - it doesn't rot and it is a bunch lighter. Look in area area
for metal supply houses - get something in the range of 1/16 - 3/32"
thick. You can cut plate w/ a circular saw and a fine tooth blade,
like a plywood blade - just reverse the blade direction. Make sure you
wear eye and ear protection....

Will run any wiring in 3/4" pvc conduit under the floor - to protect
it from chaffing and getting pinched.

Cardboard and duck tape are great planing / layout tools - so is
pencil and paper

Last thing I can add is look at Cabela's web site - lots of boat
goodies there. Toying w/ popping some holes in the floor and
putting some "hatch covers" in - either for access to wiring &/
plumbing, or maybe storage.

Jim



Thanks, Jim. If you have any digital pics, email 'em to
if you are so inclined.
1/16 - 3/32 sounds thin to me to span any real distance. I'll have to
get a piece and test it out. And a tip for REALLY cheap aluminum. Lots
of people sell usable pieces to scrap dealers, who will usually sell to
you for their normal markup per pound.
I have an idea in my head now for alternative rod storage. If it comes
to anything, I'll take pics and post a link.

Dan, danl, danny boy, Redbeard, actually Greybeard now wrote:


Henry, I do not think a decl above the interior line would be to your
liking in the long run. Do you plan on having more than two people in
the boat? If it's only you and one other you can build frameworks and
decking between the second and third seats or remove the second and
third seats and put in some ribs for stifiners and deck it for
livewell and other storage. Mount the front seat on that and your
seat on the rear bench. Did you check out the parts place I told you
about?

Thanks for your ideas, I have several options running around in my head
now. I found Kendor marine and bookmarked it, but my ISP took the day
off yesterday, and I'm playing catch-up right now.

Dan, danl, danny boy, Redbeard, actually Greybeard now wrote:


Henry, I do not think a decl above the interior line would be to your
liking in the long run. Do you plan on having more than two people in
the boat? If it's only you and one other you can build frameworks and
decking between the second and third seats or remove the second and
third seats and put in some ribs for stifiners and deck it for
livewell and other storage. Mount the front seat on that and your
seat on the rear bench. Did you check out the parts place I told you
about?

Thanks for your ideas, I have several options running around in my head
now. I found Kendor marine and bookmarked it, but my ISP took the day
off yesterday, and I'm playing catch-up right now.