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-   -   Polarized Prescription Glasses Question (http://www.fishingbanter.com/showthread.php?t=16182)

Charlie Wilson March 22nd, 2005 05:06 PM


"slenon" wrote:
I recommend the photochromic Clearwater Copper. They also work well for
driving. Best high end sunglasses I've ever worn.


I agree.



[email protected] March 22nd, 2005 05:35 PM

Use Glacier Glasses of some kind for the frames,
with leather side flaps, to block out any side-glare.
I bought a pair of 'glacier glasses' and threw out
the lenses, then replaced with perscription by-foagies.
.....couldn't fish without them now.


Joe Ellis March 22nd, 2005 05:40 PM

In article ,
"Charlie Wilson" wrote:

"slenon" wrote:
I recommend the photochromic Clearwater Copper. They also work well for
driving. Best high end sunglasses I've ever worn.


I agree.


Be careful, though.

I bought a pair of polarized prescrition sunglasses a while back, and they were
giving me headaches from day one. I went back several times to get the
prescription checked, but they kept insisting they were OK. Turns out they were
the right prescription...

.... but the polarization wasn't the same on both lenses! They were out of phase
with each other. Rather like = and //.

Check this by using another polarized item and holding the glasses out a bit
from your face while rotating them and looking through both. You should see the
same effects at the same time in both lenses.

--
"What it all comes to is that the whole structure of space flight as it
stands now is creaking, obsolecent, over-elaborate, decaying. The field is
static; no, worse than that, it's losing ground. By this time, our ships
ought to be sleeker and faster, and able to carry bigger payloads. We ought
to have done away with this dichotomy between ships that can land on a planet,
and ships that can fly from one planet to another." - Senator Bliss Wagoner
James Blish - _They Shall Have Stars_

Allen Epps March 22nd, 2005 10:10 PM

In article , Lazarus
Cooke wrote:

I'd go for yellowy amber. I haven't had a pair of prescription
polarized since some evil ******* stole my pair from my car many years
ago. Hope they gave him a headache.

But yellow is supposed to, and IMO possibly does help seeing contrast
in poor light.

Lazarus


The yellow is very tough on the eyes but does indeed provide a lot of
contrast. Worked very well shooting skeet against overcast skies but at
then end of shooting a couple hundred rounds you could tell how hard
your eyes had worked.

Allen

Sum Ting Wong March 22nd, 2005 11:29 PM

On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 16:15:38 GMT, "slenon"
wrote:

Sum, serious answer to your question. Try the Action Optics prescription
service.
http://www.actionoptics.com/rxCollec...ollection.html

I recommend the photochromic Clearwater Copper. They also work well for
driving. Best high end sunglasses I've ever worn.


Thanks to all of you for your input. I have an appointment with the
optomitrist tomorrow morning for a checkup and some new peeps. (They
warned me I'd go blind!) I have searched for some info on polarized
lenses for fishing but most of the posts I found were almost 10 years
old. Presumably there have been some advances since then, so I really
appreciate all of your personal experiences and suggestions.

S.T.W.


daytripper March 23rd, 2005 12:32 AM

On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 17:40:29 GMT, Joe Ellis wrote:

In article ,
"Charlie Wilson" wrote:

"slenon" wrote:
I recommend the photochromic Clearwater Copper. They also work well for
driving. Best high end sunglasses I've ever worn.


I agree.


Be careful, though.

I bought a pair of polarized prescrition sunglasses a while back, and they were
giving me headaches from day one. I went back several times to get the
prescription checked, but they kept insisting they were OK. Turns out they were
the right prescription...

... but the polarization wasn't the same on both lenses! They were out of phase
with each other. Rather like = and //.

Check this by using another polarized item and holding the glasses out a bit
from your face while rotating them and looking through both. You should see the
same effects at the same time in both lenses.


That is a true story that I've gone through as well. Multiple times.

It took the "technician" three tries to produce acceptable phasing of my
latest prescription polaroids, but this was something I've been well aware of
having been through two tries on my very first polarized 'scripts.

Amazingly, it's always been the same lab...

/daytripper (you'd think one of us would learn? ;-)

[email protected] March 23rd, 2005 03:33 AM

I'm going to get some new prescription sunglasses and would like to
get polarized lenses for fishing. Does anyone have any wisdom to lay
on me re lens color, etc. ? Thanks.


I'm doing this investigation myself. Here's my initial thinking:

I like glasses that I can use all the way up to dusk - because I often
fish well into dark, and am rarely bothered by even noonday sun, with
even the lightest sunglasses. What that usually means is I try to use
an AMBER colored lens, which I find to be the best for light
transmission at low levels. (With COPPER being second choice, and
brown and grey being not as good).

I don't know if there are varying levels of light transmission between
brands, aside from the color question. I assume there must be.

With all this in mind, I'm thinking about getting photosensitive
lenses: lenses which change density according to the amount of light.
But, I'm concerned that the "lowest level" setting of these might still
be too much filtering for me. Anyone have any knowledge about that?
(Or, any actual knowledge, other than my guesses here?)

Tim

PS - And, just as a PSA warning: not two weeks ago I was casting a big
sal****er fly, in the high wind conditions that an Eastern trout
fisherman like myself rarely experiences... I raised my glasses to my
forehead, 'cause it was getting dark... and on the next cast hit myself
just 1/4 inch from my eye with, I think, the front of the fly. It left
a nice little cut on my temple, and - pretty scary - a blind spot in my
vision for about three days, where I guess the shock of the blow had
traumatized the optic nerves on the inside of my eye socket. A quarter
inch to the right, and I'd have lost the eye for sure. It's all healed
up now, but you can see why I want glasses that I can wear until the
last possible moment. (Not to mention casting lessons, and maybe a few
more servings of common sense.)


rw March 23rd, 2005 04:33 AM

wrote:

I like glasses that I can use all the way up to dusk - because I often
fish well into dark, and am rarely bothered by even noonday sun, with
even the lightest sunglasses. What that usually means is I try to use
an AMBER colored lens, which I find to be the best for light
transmission at low levels. (With COPPER being second choice, and
brown and grey being not as good).

I don't know if there are varying levels of light transmission between
brands, aside from the color question. I assume there must be.


I've tried several of the common colors, and I don't find much
difference in fish-seeing performance. Like you, I want maximum light
transmission so I can fish into dusk. Overall, I prefer a neutral gray.
The maximum light transmission is theoretically 50% because of the
nature of polarization. That level can be approached with neutral gray,
but typical tinted lenses are below 20%. It seems like amber and copper
sometimes help a little in seeing the bottom of typical freestone
rivers, because the bottom tends to be amber or copper colored. (When I
look for fish in clear moving water, I usually try first to see the
bottom by "filtering out" the distortion from surface turbulence -- the
fish come next -- they tend to look like "bottom" behaving in an odd
way, like a moving shadow or a waving tail).

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.

Sum Ting Wong March 23rd, 2005 04:39 AM

On 22 Mar 2005 19:33:38 -0800,
wrote:

I like glasses that I can use all the way up to dusk - because I often
fish well into dark, and am rarely bothered by even noonday sun, with
even the lightest sunglasses. What that usually means is I try to use
an AMBER colored lens, which I find to be the best for light
transmission at low levels. (With COPPER being second choice, and
brown and grey being not as good).


I haven't fished with polarized lenses before but it seems to me that
after the sun goes down you wouldn't be getting the reflection/glare
that would make them useful no matter what color they were. At that
point I think I would switch to the clear glasses.

I found this post from 1997 on that is sort of interesting:

http://groups-beta.google.com/group/...a775f2bfc4d766

S.T.W.


slenon March 23rd, 2005 03:55 PM

Use Glacier Glasses of some kind for the frames,
with leather side flaps, to block out any side-glare.
I bought a pair of 'glacier glasses' and threw out
the lenses, then replaced with perscription by-foagies.
....couldn't fish without them now.


Good advice, if the frames will fit the lenses one needs. I had only one
frame option from Action Optics because of my prescription. However, I've
used glacier glasses prior to giving up my contacts and really appreciate
the additional protection that the side-blocks provide. AO makes and sells
felt side-blocks for about $5/pair. They fold down or back out of the way
when driving and are there at need.



--
Stev Lenon 91B20 '68-'69
When the dawn came up like thunder

http://web.tampabay.rr.com/stevglo/i...age92kword.htm





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