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On Mon, 7 Feb 2005 15:36:24 +0100, "riverman" wrote:
Yuk yuk and no I don't. Here is the original statement: "Then I realized that, for every yard I could walk deeper into the water, it increased my casting distance 2 yards out into the deeps." So tell me, Mr Whitman, how you would have phrased it? If you are asserting that one can cast, for example, 60 yards if they merely wade 30 yards into the water, then I wouldn't have phrased it at all. g -- Charlie... http://www.chocphoto.com/ - photo galleries http://www.chocphoto.com/roff |
"Charlie Choc" wrote in message ... On Mon, 7 Feb 2005 15:36:24 +0100, "riverman" wrote: Yuk yuk and no I don't. Here is the original statement: "Then I realized that, for every yard I could walk deeper into the water, it increased my casting distance 2 yards out into the deeps." So tell me, Mr Whitman, how you would have phrased it? If you are asserting that one can cast, for example, 60 yards if they merely wade 30 yards into the water, then I wouldn't have phrased it at all. g -- Yeah yeah yeah. My point was well understood by those who got it. --riverman ;-) |
"riverman" wrote in message ... "snakefiddler" wrote in message ... what has been ya'll's experience with bootfoot waders? with spring comin (soon i hope) i am thinking of getting a pair of three forks 420 denier's, but they only come in a bootfoot for women. so, i'm wondering about the comfort level of the boot, as well as the maneuverability factor, and anything else i may not know to ask about. any *constructive* ;-) input would be appreciated. thanks- snake Here's my experience, in a nutshell. First, I fished from shore. Then I realized that, for every yard I could walk deeper into the water, it increased my casting distance 2 yards out into the deeps. So then I got some mudboots. Mid-calf. It was less than a month before I realized I needed to get farther out. So then I got some hip waders (bootfoot). That lasted until the end of a single season. I realized that I was constantly pushing the boundary and soaking my legs, and needed some honest waders. So I got some mid-belly ones, stockingfoot (as I wanted to be able to wear them in cool and cold water and needed to be able to accomodate different arrangements of socks). Those got stolen, so my next purchase was some stockingfoot armpit-depth waders. Which I love. But those mudboots and bootfoot hipwaders live forever in my closet. Anyway, that has nothing to do with your question, but you asked for my experience. Hey, wasn't there a thread about a year ago about some Simms waders for sale on EBay from some high-maintenance woman who was dumping her suitor, and his gifts? Too bad you didn't get in on those.... --riverman yeah, i remember that. as i recall, they were the wrong size...... i also recall that she must not have been too bright. i can see returning a diamond ring, but getting rid of a good pair of waders? G snake |
riverman wrote: Thats true, but having a good clear backcast doesn't hurt. Anyway, at the time I was a medicre caster, and changing from mudboots to hip waders did enable me to cover water that was more than a foot deep. It didn't help me catch any more fish, bit at least I could spook more. Grasshopper, if you make a hard stop at the 12:00 position on the backcast, this will often cause your back cast to go straight up, sometimes referred to as a steeple cast. Of more import on the forward cast is the ability to generate line speed and shoot the line. WF lines are better for this and a single haul often helps. As far as covering more water and getting nothing forward, you have proved once again the ability to mend and control your line while stream fishing is more important than the ability to boom a cast regardless of the distance to your target. |
"Wayne Knight" wrote in message ps.com... riverman wrote: Thats true, but having a good clear backcast doesn't hurt. Anyway, at the time I was a medicre caster, and changing from mudboots to hip waders did enable me to cover water that was more than a foot deep. It didn't help me catch any more fish, bit at least I could spook more. Grasshopper, if you make a hard stop at the 12:00 position on the backcast, this will often cause your back cast to go straight up, sometimes referred to as a steeple cast. Of more import on the forward cast is the ability to generate line speed and shoot the line. WF lines are better for this and a single haul often helps. As far as covering more water and getting nothing forward, you have proved once again the ability to mend and control your line while stream fishing is more important than the ability to boom a cast regardless of the distance to your target. Charlie Choc and I had this discussion at the SJMiniClave last year (just he and I for a coupla days). I'm familiar with the steeple cast, and employ it often when I have trees hard against my back on streams and there is too much interference on the water for a roll cast, but even at my intermediate level of casting, I can not get as good a load on the rod with that as I can with a regular backcast. And my effective casting distance is about half, at best. Charlie and I were discussing the relationship between the direction of the line during the backcast in comparison to the frontcast. He says (as does pretty much everyone) that its irrelevant, as the line moves away from your rod perpendicular to whatever direction it was going when it stopped, with no loss of loading. I thought that there was something about this that must disobey the rules about momentum and moment arm. The challenge we gave ourselves was to make a V-shaped cast; where the line went up at 2:00 on the backcast, and up at 10:00 on the forward cast. I found that it just didn't work that well...there were loops and the end of the line flopped every which way. However, if the backcast is directly opposite the forward cast: 3:00 and 9:00 (note: these are the directions the LINE is going, not the rod), then there is a more complete loading of the rod on the backcast, and a cleaner, further forward cast. Your thoughts, Master? --riverm-H^H^H^H^grasshopper |
riverman Charlie and I were discussing the relationship between the riverman direction of the line during the backcast in comparison to riverman the frontcast. He says (as does pretty much everyone) that riverman its irrelevant, as the line moves away from your rod riverman perpendicular to whatever direction it was going when it riverman stopped, with no loss of loading. I'm not 100% sure of what you're trying to say, but in any case this sounds very weird. Say you make your backcast at one o'clock (line again, not rod), while wanting to make the frontcast at 10 o'clock. How are you going to get the rod loaded in the first place during the forward cast? After the backcast the line will first go up. If you start your forward cast directly from there, you can't get the weight of the line against the rod. If you wait until the line is at the right "level" it will no longer be straight but a puddle. Or did I misunderstand this completely? I've read a couple of books on casting, and I think that in those book "pretty much everyone" thinks exactly the opposite. ;-) -- Jarmo Hurri Commercial email countermeasures included in header email address. Remove all garbage from header email address when replying, or just use . |
On Tue, 8 Feb 2005 14:23:09 +0100, "riverman" wrote:
He says (as does pretty much everyone) that its irrelevant, as the line moves away from your rod perpendicular to whatever direction it was going when it stopped I said the line moves in the direction the rod *tip* was moving when you did the "speed up and stop". I'm not exactly sure what your statement above means, but I'm totally sure it's not what I said at the SJ. g -- Charlie... http://www.chocphoto.com/ - photo galleries http://www.chocphoto.com/roff |
On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 17:28:17 +0200, Jarmo Hurri
wrote: I'm not 100% sure of what you're trying to say, but in any case this sounds very weird. Say you make your backcast at one o'clock (line again, not rod), while wanting to make the frontcast at 10 o'clock. How are you going to get the rod loaded in the first place during the forward cast? After the backcast the line will first go up. If you start your forward cast directly from there, you can't get the weight of the line against the rod. If you wait until the line is at the right "level" it will no longer be straight but a puddle. Or did I misunderstand this completely? I've read a couple of books on casting, and I think that in those book "pretty much everyone" thinks exactly the opposite. ;-) At the SJ, Myron was saying that the forward cast *had* to mirror the backcast, i.e. if you wanted your forward cast to go up your backcast had to go down (the discussion started with talking about hitting the water on the backcast). My statement was that the direction of either cast depended on what direction the rod *tip* was moving when you did your "power stroke" or "speed up and stop", whatever you call it. The front cast and back cast do not have to mirror each other. As long as the tip of the line is moving when you start the cast you (or at least Leftyg) can make the cast go pretty much any direction you want. -- Charlie... http://www.chocphoto.com/ - photo galleries http://www.chocphoto.com/roff |
"Jarmo Hurri" wrote in message ... riverman Charlie and I were discussing the relationship between the riverman direction of the line during the backcast in comparison to riverman the frontcast. He says (as does pretty much everyone) that riverman its irrelevant, as the line moves away from your rod riverman perpendicular to whatever direction it was going when it riverman stopped, with no loss of loading. I'm not 100% sure of what you're trying to say, but in any case this sounds very weird. Say you make your backcast at one o'clock (line again, not rod), while wanting to make the frontcast at 10 o'clock. How are you going to get the rod loaded in the first place during the forward cast? After the backcast the line will first go up. If you start your forward cast directly from there, you can't get the weight of the line against the rod. If you wait until the line is at the right "level" it will no longer be straight but a puddle. Or did I misunderstand this completely? No, you read it correctly. I presume, as you do, that if your backcast sends the line out at 1o'clock, then your front cast will want to go out at about 7 o'clock, 8 o'clock if you can 'tweak' it up a bit. But apparently, others disagree. Its no suprise that this sounds strange to you, Jarmo, as the materials you sent me were my primary source in assessing Charlie's ascertations. I didn't disagree with him, as I am far from an expert in this, however I did not completely feel comfortable agreeing, either. His point (which I will let him expand on here shortly, I'm sure) is that the line will move away perpendicular to whatever direction you stop the rod, and will load up when it hits the end, regardless of what direction the following front cast sends it. The frontcast direction is purely a function of where you stop your tip. The *backcast* loads the rod, NOT the beginning of the frontcast. His point (which is accepted, btw) is that we all do this horizontally: false cast parallel to the bank before we release out over the water, perpendicular to the direction of our false casts. The V-shaped cast is just a vertical application of this 'around the corner' horizontal cast. Except that I couldn't do it. --riverman |
Charlie At the SJ, Myron was saying that the forward cast *had* to Charlie mirror the backcast, i.e. if you wanted your forward cast to Charlie go up your backcast had to go down (the discussion started Charlie with talking about hitting the water on the backcast). Ah, yes, I see now. But this is very different from the direction being "irrelevant". Charlie The front cast and back cast do not have to mirror each Charlie other. As long as the tip of the line is moving when you Charlie start the cast you (or at least Leftyg) can make the cast Charlie go pretty much any direction you want. At least the couple of inches of line closest to the rod tip, for a second or two... ;-) -- Jarmo Hurri Commercial email countermeasures included in header email address. Remove all garbage from header email address when replying, or just use . |
"Jarmo Hurri" wrote in message I'm not 100% sure of what you're trying to say, but in any case this sounds very weird. Say you make your backcast at one o'clock (line again, not rod), while wanting to make the frontcast at 10 o'clock. How are you going to get the rod loaded in the first place during the forward cast? After the backcast the line will first go up. If you start your forward cast directly from there, you can't get the weight of the line against the rod. If you wait until the line is at the right "level" it will no longer be straight but a puddle. Or did I misunderstand this completely? I've read a couple of books on casting, and I think that in those book "pretty much everyone" thinks exactly the opposite. ;-) -- Jarmo Hurri There is a slight drift at the end of the backcast from 1:00 which allows you to load the rod properly. You can either turn your head to see this, or more experienced casters can feel it. Next time you cast, try it with short line out (35ft) watch the tip of your rod...you should see a slight drift on your backcast. -tom |
On Tue, 8 Feb 2005 16:45:48 +0100, "riverman" wrote:
His point (which I will let him expand on here shortly, I'm sure) is that the line will move away perpendicular to whatever direction you stop the rod, and will load up when it hits the end, regardless of what direction the following front cast sends it. The line will move in the direction the rod *tip* was traveling when you did the "speed up and stop". That is an important distinction to make. -- Charlie... http://www.chocphoto.com/ - photo galleries http://www.chocphoto.com/roff |
"riverman" wrote in message ... "Wayne Knight" wrote in message ps.com... riverman wrote: Thats true, but having a good clear backcast doesn't hurt. Anyway, at the time I was a medicre caster (stuff snipped) Wayne wrote: Grasshopper, if you make a hard stop at the 12:00 position on the backcast, this will often cause your back cast to go straight up, sometimes referred to as a steeple cast. Of more import on the forward cast is the ability to generate line speed and shoot the line. WF lines are better for this and a single haul often helps. As far as covering more water and getting nothing forward, you have proved once again the ability to mend and control your line while stream fishing is more important than the ability to boom a cast regardless of the distance to your target. Riverman wrote: Charlie Choc and I had this discussion at the SJMiniClave last year (just he and I for a coupla days). I'm familiar with the steeple cast, and employ it often when I have trees hard against my back on streams and there is too much interference on the water for a roll cast, but even at my intermediate level of casting, I can not get as good a load on the rod with that as I can with a regular backcast. And my effective casting distance is about half, at best. Charlie and I were discussing the relationship between the direction of the line during the backcast in comparison to the frontcast. He says (as does pretty much everyone) that its irrelevant, as the line moves away from your rod perpendicular to whatever direction it was going when it stopped, with no loss of loading. I thought that there was something about this that must disobey the rules about momentum and moment arm. The challenge we gave ourselves was to make a V-shaped cast; where the line went up at 2:00 on the backcast, and up at 10:00 on the forward cast. I found that it just didn't work that well...there were loops and the end of the line flopped every which way. However, if the backcast is directly opposite the forward cast: 3:00 and 9:00 (note: these are the directions the LINE is going, not the rod), then there is a more complete loading of the rod on the backcast, and a cleaner, further forward cast. Your thoughts, Master? --riverm-H^H^H^H^grasshopper Riverman, I suggest a book called " The Essence of Flycasting" by Mel Krieger. (ISBN: 0-944169-02-3) DaveMohnsen Denver (missed you guys by a week or so last summer on the San Juan. Would have been fun to watch you guys going through the drill you mentioned with casting. :) I suspect Charlie knows a bit about it, in a lot of different conditions, and in a lot of different waters. Uhh . . .read the book, or get the video, practice, and then fish with Charlie again) |
Hi Wayne:
What you experienced in your V-cast attempts--eg. line flop, loops, etc.--was normal and to be expected. Basically, you attempted to alter the frontcast direction when compared to the backcast direction and which can't be done with much success. Instead, begin your backcast in a direction that is 180 degrees from your intended target. For example, if your target is at 2 o'clock, you should attempt to throw your backcast toward 8 o'clock. In this way, you maximize angular momentum and increase the amount of loading on your rod for longer and more-precise casts. As for restricted backcasts or where they aren't possible at all AND for a quick change of direction of up to about 90 degrees, you might want to learn and then try a one-handed spey cast, that is, a spey cast done with a single-handed rod. It works great in close quarters and allows you to quickly reposition the fly with a minimum of casting strokes. Add a haul on the forwardcast and you can get pretty decent results distancewise too!! Tight lines! |
riverman Its no suprise that this sounds strange to you, Jarmo, as riverman the materials you sent me were my primary source in riverman assessing Charlie's ascertations. Now that I understand what you're talking about this does not sound strange at all. (I guess the word "irrelevant" caused all the confusion.) There are all kinds of casts where the standard casting plane is broken. One of the casts I practiced a couple of years ago was such that first you make consecutive side casts with your palm up (along the direction of the river, for example). Then on the final forward cast you turn your thumb up (reel down) and direct the cast across the river: http://www.sexyloops.com/flycasting/tsidecasting.shtml -- Jarmo Hurri Commercial email countermeasures included in header email address. Remove all garbage from header email address when replying, or just use . |
Charlie Choc wrote:
On Tue, 8 Feb 2005 16:45:48 +0100, "riverman" wrote: His point (which I will let him expand on here shortly, I'm sure) is that the line will move away perpendicular to whatever direction you stop the rod, and will load up when it hits the end, regardless of what direction the following front cast sends it. The line will move in the direction the rod *tip* was traveling when you did the "speed up and stop". That is an important distinction to make. The *end* of the line, aka the fly, will go where the rod tip was pointing during the power stroke, but if you move the rod tip after that, the rest of the line will follow. This is the reach cast, used when you want to put the line upstream of the fly when casting over a current. -- Ken Fortenberry |
riverman wrote: Your thoughts, Master? I think: 1. You should pay more attention to what Charlie is saying, I think you misunderstand the dyanmics of the cast. Charilie is right about the tip direction. 2. Next time you are in civilization, you need to take your rods to a well stocked fly shop and try some different lines, including maybe one weight up or down, your rods should load *as well* at the 12:00 position, 11:00 position, or the 9:00 position. 3. Both Kreh and Jaworski have stated longer casts benefit from longer strokes so your rationale that you cast farther using a 9:00 stop versus an 11:00 stop makes sense. 4. If after doing #2, you don't find improvement, I would be looking at the rods and trying different models and makers to find the one that *fits* you. This of course involves spending money you may or may not have but may help you in the long run. Most folks know that I love Winston rods generically speaking. But what most people don't know is that I found the Winston LT five weight to be one of the worse rods ever made because how I cast and how that rod cast could not mesh. Most folks I know fishing the LT love them. 5. Practice change of direction casts, practice using your backcast as your forward cast. They are ackward, but things that can make your success rate better. One of the hardest things for me to learn was to do what jarmo was talking about casting parallel to the river then changing direction perpendicular. Try moving your rod tip to the left and righ as you practice your final forward cast and watch how the fly line moves in relationship to the tippet end. 6. Pay more attention to what Charlie stated. You want your fly to go in a certain direction, then you gots to point the rod tip in the right place. And Grasshopper, I am no master, if you want a master ask Mike or post this on the Fly Fisherman website, at least three masters post there regularly. |
On 8 Feb 2005 09:07:06 -0800, "Wayne Knight" wrote:
3. Both Kreh and Jaworski have stated longer casts benefit from longer strokes so your rationale that you cast farther using a 9:00 stop versus an 11:00 stop makes sense. I think you are better off with a 10 o'clock stop and letting the rod drift back to 9 o'clock for that. You get the longer forward stroke with less risk of having the rod tip starting down when you stop. -- Charlie... http://www.chocphoto.com/ - photo galleries http://www.chocphoto.com/roff |
Charlie Choc wrote: I think you are better off with a 10 o'clock stop and letting the rod drift back to 9 o'clock for that. You get the longer forward stroke with less risk of having the rod tip starting down when you stop. I rarely consiously stop at 9 when going for a longer cast. i stop and the 10 position and lengthen my arm rather than keeping things tucked in close. If I stop at 9 with a long back cast, i'm picking flowers for the spouse. |
JackL@EpicOdyssey wrote: Hi Wayne: [more good advise snipped.] Jack meet Myron. Myron meet Jack ,g |
"Wayne Knight" wrote in message ups.com... JackL@EpicOdyssey wrote: Hi Wayne: [more good advise snipped.] Jack meet Myron. Myron meet Jack ,g Hi Jack. I'm a fishing addict. --Myron |
"riverman" wrote in message ... SNIP The *backcast* loads the rod, NOT the beginning of the frontcast. His point (which is accepted, btw) is that we all do this horizontally: false cast parallel to the bank before we release out over the water, perpendicular to the direction of our false casts. The V-shaped cast is just a vertical application of this 'around the corner' horizontal cast. Except that I couldn't do it. --riverman Not true. A good caster under normal circumstances will attempt to remove any load from the rod at all on the backcast, ( Drifting!). The forward stroke ( unless you are doing pre-loading tricks, with shooting heads etc), is all that loads the rod. In order to get the line to go where you want it to, you merely need to move the rod tip in that direction. No matter what direction your back cast is, the main purpose is to get the line stretched out from the rod tip in a straight line, with no slack. This also works if you cast the line straight up. The forward motion is more of a thrust and flick, than in a "normal" back/forward cast in the horizontal plane. TL MC |
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"Wayne Knight" wrote in message oups.com... riverman wrote: Your thoughts, Master? I think: 1. You should pay more attention to what Charlie is saying, I think you misunderstand the dyanmics of the cast. Charilie is right about the tip direction. I never doubted him. It was a level of casting analysis I hadn't done, and it was a good discussion. I merely told him what my misconceptions were, and he set me straight, in his inimitable way. g 2. Next time you are in civilization, you need to take your rods to a well stocked fly shop and try some different lines, including maybe one weight up or down, your rods should load *as well* at the 12:00 position, 11:00 position, or the 9:00 position. Hmm, good idea. I think my rods load at all positions, depending on how tidy my retrieve is. What I need is more practice with different style casts, I believe. Watching some folks model them would likely help. 3. Both Kreh and Jaworski have stated longer casts benefit from longer strokes so your rationale that you cast farther using a 9:00 stop versus an 11:00 stop makes sense. Ahh, a lucky hit! :-) But I'm confused about the 9:00 vs 11:00 thing....I stop my casts at 11:00 instead of *2:00* ("think UP, not back..."). Oh wait!! I cast with my right hand....are we getting our clocks reversed? Is there any standardization to this? 4. If after doing #2, you don't find improvement, I would be looking at the rods and trying different models and makers to find the one that *fits* you. This of course involves spending money you may or may not have but may help you in the long run. Most folks know that I love Winston rods generically speaking. But what most people don't know is that I found the Winston LT five weight to be one of the worse rods ever made because how I cast and how that rod cast could not mesh. Most folks I know fishing the LT love them. Ahh, now THATs an idea I like! I think some rod swapping at different claves might be in the making, also. Is that done? 5. Practice change of direction casts, practice using your backcast as your forward cast. They are ackward, but things that can make your success rate better. One of the hardest things for me to learn was to do what jarmo was talking about casting parallel to the river then changing direction perpendicular. Try moving your rod tip to the left and righ as you practice your final forward cast and watch how the fly line moves in relationship to the tippet end. These are things I regularly do. I picked up a book ("The basics of Fly Fishing" by someoneorother) that showed how to cast in a crowded wood: face the trees, cast *into* an open space in the trees, and let the backcast be your delivery cast. I also do this sometimes in windy conditions when I'm on the wrong side of a river: turn around and cast the wrong way, letting the backcast be the delivery. I've gotten pretty dependable with casting parallel to the river, then delivering the fly _across_ the river. That works well in crowded growth situations. But I never really analyzed what my hands or rod were doing; I just 'do it' and it works out well. 6. Pay more attention to what Charlie stated. You want your fly to go in a certain direction, then you gots to point the rod tip in the right place. OK. And Grasshopper, I am no master, if you want a master ask Mike or post this on the Fly Fisherman website, at least three masters post there regularly. I had several nice days of casting practice with Mike, both at the Denmark Clave and again at his house the next year. Again, it was less emphasis on the _mechanics_ of what happens, and more on just 'doing it'. I never pretend to be an advanced caster: I think I might score a C- or D+ on the casting scale. Roger and Mike, on the other hand, amaze me. --riverman |
"Mike Connor" wrote in message ... "riverman" wrote in message ... SNIP The *backcast* loads the rod, NOT the beginning of the frontcast. His point (which is accepted, btw) is that we all do this horizontally: false cast parallel to the bank before we release out over the water, perpendicular to the direction of our false casts. The V-shaped cast is just a vertical application of this 'around the corner' horizontal cast. Except that I couldn't do it. --riverman Not true. A good caster under normal circumstances will attempt to remove any load from the rod at all on the backcast, ( Drifting!). The forward stroke ( unless you are doing pre-loading tricks, with shooting heads etc), is all that loads the rod. In order to get the line to go where you want it to, you merely need to move the rod tip in that direction. No matter what direction your back cast is, the main purpose is to get the line stretched out from the rod tip in a straight line, with no slack. This also works if you cast the line straight up. The forward motion is more of a thrust and flick, than in a "normal" back/forward cast in the horizontal plane. TL MC Yes, agree with Mike, the drift after the stop on the back cast is very important, this allows you to load the rod correctly. On the forward cast, slow the rod down as you accelerate. What this does is take the slack out of the line, and then a thrust or flick at the end of the forward cast at 11:00 will give you those nice tight loops. Some of the best fly casters at the show had a nice smooth gentle cast. It's not about power, let the rod do the work. -tom |
On Tue, 8 Feb 2005 23:11:58 +0100, "Mike Connor"
wrote: Not true. A good caster under normal circumstances will attempt to remove any load from the rod at all on the backcast, ( Drifting!). The forward stroke ( unless you are doing pre-loading tricks, with shooting heads etc), is all that loads the rod. The *beginning* of the backcast loads the rod in the same way that the beginning of the forward cast does. The 'drift' lets you get a longer stroke (and thus more line speed) while still being able to apply the power stroke with the tip going up, but I don't think it's required part of a 'normal' cast - normal being 20-40' in most places I fish. FWIW -- Charlie... http://www.chocphoto.com/ - photo galleries http://www.chocphoto.com/roff |
Hey Myron:
I'm one too! Nice to meet a fellow addict!! Jack |
Mike Connor wrote:
walk on the meniscus! If I may, Counselor, Hilarious. Russell |
Eric...
I agree. The only way I could see getting more distance would be in that circumstance where your back cast is limited due to brush or trees...and the further out you go, you are able to accomplish a better back cast and thereby making a longer cast. Other than that, I would say that at best, you'd gain one yard for every yard you walk forward into the river. And...at some point, if you wade deep enough, it would be less than that in terms of gaining a one for one trade off on distance. For instance, if you're up to your eyeball in water, then your backcast may start slapping the water behind you if you try to throw too much line. Barry "Eric" wrote in message ... Hi.. I don't understand how you get 2 yards casting distance for every yard you walk out from shore. eric On Sat, 5 Feb 2005 19:26:02 +0100, "riverman" wrote: "snakefiddler" wrote in message ... what has been ya'll's experience with bootfoot waders? with spring comin (soon i hope) i am thinking of getting a pair of three forks 420 denier's, but they only come in a bootfoot for women. so, i'm wondering about the comfort level of the boot, as well as the maneuverability factor, and anything else i may not know to ask about. any *constructive* ;-) input would be appreciated. thanks- snake Here's my experience, in a nutshell. First, I fished from shore. Then I realized that, for every yard I could walk deeper into the water, it increased my casting distance 2 yards out into the deeps. So then I got some mudboots. Mid-calf. It was less than a month before I realized I needed to get farther out. So then I got some hip waders (bootfoot). That lasted until the end of a single season. I realized that I was constantly pushing the boundary and soaking my legs, and needed some honest waders. So I got some mid-belly ones, stockingfoot (as I wanted to be able to wear them in cool and cold water and needed to be able to accomodate different arrangements of socks). Those got stolen, so my next purchase was some stockingfoot armpit-depth waders. Which I love. But those mudboots and bootfoot hipwaders live forever in my closet. Anyway, that has nothing to do with your question, but you asked for my experience. Hey, wasn't there a thread about a year ago about some Simms waders for sale on EBay from some high-maintenance woman who was dumping her suitor, and his gifts? Too bad you didn't get in on those.... --riverman |
I think this is bogus thinking. You have the same amount of line out wether
your on the bank or the middle of the river. I think your making all this harder than you need to. b.anderson "Charlie Choc" wrote in message ... On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 22:53:57 -0500, daytripper wrote: On Sun, 6 Feb 2005 22:55:07 +0100, "riverman" wrote: "rw" wrote in message . com... Eric wrote: Hi.. I don't understand how you get 2 yards casting distance for every yard you walk out from shore. More room for the backcast? Yep. You gain a yard of distance because you are a yard deeper. And you get another yard of line out because you're a yard further from the trees. So your casts reach 2 yards farther out for every yard deeper you wade. Hmmm...."I don't think so, Tim" That extra yard of backcast is the same yard when it's in front of you... Myron measures casting distance as distance from shore. If you are 80' from shore you can make 90' casts with a 9' rod and only 1' of line. g -- Charlie... http://www.chocphoto.com/ - photo galleries http://www.chocphoto.com/roff |
Bob Anderson wrote:
I think this is bogus thinking. You have the same amount of line out wether your on the bank or the middle of the river. I think your making all this harder than you need to. Riverman was trying to make a very simple point, but you guys got hung up on fussy literalism. If there are obstructions to the backcast on the bank, the ability to wade even a short distance into the stream usually opens up a lot more casting and presentation opportunities. -- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. |
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