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Cork filler (need to buy or make)
"Conan The Librarian" wrote in message ... Wolfgang wrote: Mindful of the thoughtful observation provided earlier about the problematic "repairer's access to tools" and knowing how difficult it can be to find specialty items, I did a bit of research and found the following probably useful site.....looks like a fairly complete line of everything you should need: http://www.cleansweepsupply.com/pages/skugroup7358.html Good luck.......and feel free to consult with our helpful double-naught experts if any further problems arise. :) Heh, heh. :-) Thanks for the tool info. I think I've got about a dozen of those lying around somewhere. But I'm disappointed; I was counting on being able to make a major tool purchase just for this project. Hm..... Ever done any smithing? Let's see.....an anvil, a selection of hammers (flatties, various peens, etc.), tongs, chisels (hot and cold), swages, files, welding flux, a forge, refractory clay, a couple tons of coal, whet stones, some used moter oil, a couple of wooden tubs, a 24" diamter chunk of tree trunk, a decent stock of O2 steel (and whatever scrap you might find lying about), a grindstone.....and a shed to keep it all in, could easily set you back....oh, say three or four grand. Why, in no time at all you could be making your own specialty tools.....knives, carving gouges, etc.* :) Chuck Vance (maybe a lathe?) See Bill. Wolfgang *remember to do all your heat treating on rough pieces......finish shaping, polishing and sharpening should always be done AFTER hardening and tempering! |
Cork filler (need to buy or make)
On Wed, 07 Dec 2005 13:34:04 -0600, Conan The Librarian
wrote: wrote: On Wed, 07 Dec 2005 12:05:21 -0600, Conan The Librarian wrote: IIRC, the OP mentioned a "divot", which seemed like a likely candidate for a patch rather than a sanding dust filler. I honestly don't see any reason why it shouldn't work. You're not gluing it to the surrounding cork. Then I may have misunderstood what you meant as to where you were suggesting gluing the new piece/"Dutchman" - ??? I was probably not precise enough in my previous statement. You are not gluing it to the cork on the sides, but rather the cork below the patch. In woodworking inlays, you don't attempt to glue the edges of the inlay, you glue it to the substrate. I'm assuming you would do the same with cork, but correct me if I'm wrong. Hmmm...first, I've never used, seen, or even heard of a Dutchman used to repair an inlay, nor do I think it would be an appropriate use, but that is certainly another of those "YMMV" things. In my experience, a Dutchman is simply a way to repair/salvage something much larger (a large, wide plank in a casegood, for example) that merits the handwork necessary to fit it. And again, in my experience, a Dutchman would be fully glued, much like a plug. That said, given the time and effort to precisely cut the recept in the handle and the corresponding cork "Dutchman," it would be more an goal in and of itself rather than a practical repair method. And beyond that, you would be relying on the underlying cork to hold the patch, and if you didn't glue the edges, I think that would introduce another weakness in that, unlike the very thin wood inlay where there is no real edge to hold glue, nor is it necessary, the cork Dutchman would susceptible to catching and tearing at the edge of the "patch" unless glued at the edges. Could, for argument's sake, a patch be done by this method? Yeah, sure. Should it be done? That would be up to the individual, but I don't think it would be worth it, and I know that it would be completely unnecessary excess as far as repair goes, even forgetting the "glue to...???" issue and whether it would hold. Heck, you could probably argue for CNC mircocutters with 3D digitizing input and all sorts of other cool ****, but how many double-naught rod-building superheroes do you really need to change a lightbulb? TC, R |
Cork filler (need to buy or make)
wrote in message ... On Wed, 07 Dec 2005 13:34:04 -0600, Conan The Librarian wrote: wrote: On Wed, 07 Dec 2005 12:05:21 -0600, Conan The Librarian wrote: IIRC, the OP mentioned a "divot", which seemed like a likely candidate for a patch rather than a sanding dust filler. I honestly don't see any reason why it shouldn't work. You're not gluing it to the surrounding cork. Then I may have misunderstood what you meant as to where you were suggesting gluing the new piece/"Dutchman" - ??? I was probably not precise enough in my previous statement. You are not gluing it to the cork on the sides, but rather the cork below the patch. In woodworking inlays, you don't attempt to glue the edges of the inlay, you glue it to the substrate. I'm assuming you would do the same with cork, but correct me if I'm wrong. Hmmm...first, I've never used, seen, or even heard of a Dutchman used to repair an inlay, nor do I think it would be an appropriate use, but that is certainly another of those "YMMV" things. In my experience, a Dutchman is simply a way to repair/salvage something much larger (a large, wide plank in a casegood, for example) that merits the handwork necessary to fit it. And again, in my experience, a Dutchman would be fully glued, much like a plug. That said, given the time and effort to precisely cut the recept in the handle and the corresponding cork "Dutchman," it would be more an goal in and of itself rather than a practical repair method. And beyond that, you would be relying on the underlying cork to hold the patch, and if you didn't glue the edges, I think that would introduce another weakness in that, unlike the very thin wood inlay where there is no real edge to hold glue, nor is it necessary, the cork Dutchman would susceptible to catching and tearing at the edge of the "patch" unless glued at the edges. Could, for argument's sake, a patch be done by this method? Yeah, sure. Should it be done? That would be up to the individual, but I don't think it would be worth it, and I know that it would be completely unnecessary excess as far as repair goes, even forgetting the "glue to...???" issue and whether it would hold. Heck, you could probably argue for CNC mircocutters with 3D digitizing input and all sorts of other cool ****, but how many double-naught rod-building superheroes do you really need to change a lightbulb? Oh for God's sake, you fatuous idiot! You cut out a flat bottomed section with vertical ends including the blemish. You cut another flat bottomed piece of fresh cork to fit and stand proud. You cement it in place using contact cement. You sand it flush. Elapsed time......30-45 minutes.......for someone not particularly adept with tools. Given another lifetime or two, YOU could probably even mange it. Wolfgang |
Cork filler (need to buy or make)
"Tom Nakashima" wrote in message
... I got a pretty good size divot where my index finger touches the cork on my fly-rod. There are a lot of divots but this one is annoying. Is there a cork filler on the market, or can you make it yourself? Been to the hardware store, wood filler (not sure if that will do), but no cork filler. The only satisfactory repair is to replace at least one of the cork rings. (This was probably said somewhere in the thread, which I stopped reading when the abuse level passed X.) The point is that all likely adhesives (to hold cork crumbs in place) dry harder than cork. This will sooner or later raise a blister where you touch the handle. -- Don Phillipson Carlsbad Springs (Ottawa, Canada) |
Cork filler (need to buy or make)
On Wed, 7 Dec 2005 14:53:49 -0600, "Wolfgang" wrote:
Oh for God's sake, you fatuous idiot! You cut out a flat bottomed section with vertical ends including the blemish. You cut another flat bottomed piece of fresh cork to fit and stand proud. You cement it in place using contact cement. You sand it flush. Elapsed time......30-45 minutes.......for someone not particularly adept with tools. Given another lifetime or two, YOU could probably even mange it. Oh for God's sake, you idiotically idiotic idiot who idiotically tends to idiotic idiocies! You wrap it with duct tape and go fishing. No fitting, no sanding, no cement. Elapsed time.....15 seconds...well, for normal folks. For you, 15 seconds for the tape, too......after spending 43 hours proving how little you know about duct tape. Given another lifetime or two, you could probably really manage to show how little you actually learned in this one... ...."fatuous idiot"....hee, hee, hee, AND tee-hee, too, Eleven-and-a-half eagles......dick |
Cork filler (need to buy or make)
On Wed, 07 Dec 2005 16:31:27 -0500, William Claspy
wrote: On 12/7/05 2:25 PM, in article , " wrote: On Wed, 07 Dec 2005 14:09:17 -0500, William Claspy wrote: On 12/7/05 12:49 PM, in article , " wrote: On Wed, 07 Dec 2005 12:08:46 -0500, William Claspy wrote: I love that book. Garrison seems like he was the double-naught of cane rod building. He did turn out some pretty decent rods, having taken his, pardon the Bond pun, "cue" from some of the early masters of the art. Well for me, the book is a gem for the illustrations, photographs, and exquisite step-by-step detail of building a bamboo rod. Right on the money, penny (to extend the pun just a tad more than it should be.) Though perhaps the pages and pages at the end filled with tables and graphs is a bit more engineering than truly necessary? For the occasional "hobby" builder, yeah, probably, but for someone who is really into bamboo rod building, especially at the time of publication of the book, it was about it as far as published info. Perhaps it is better that they provided extra info rather than let it go unpublished and perhaps lost, ala much Payne, esp. Ed, and other "masters" info. Perhaps not - as always, YMMV. I don't know, I don't know. All of this free sharing of information could be troublesome, wot? :-) Point taken. I guess it is that part of the book, the over-the-top engineering stuff at the back, that puts me off trying my hand at it. I'll never forget a couple of years back, an article was published in Fine Woodworking on building Chippendale chairs. It went on for at least a couple of pages on how to calculate and measure the mortise and tenon that connects the top rail to the leg- which is an admittedly tricky joint to complete, angled in several directions etc. The author had lots of equations and math and such. An issue or two later, a seasoned chair maker wrote a reply and showed how with a couple of simple tools and in two or three paragraphs how the same joint could be cut. No equations. Of course, I haven't tried building a Chippendale chair yet either... I take it you mean the section on developing tapers, and if so, I don't see why it couldn't be ignored if one were simply making a rod or three using the many tapers already out there. I'd suspect it would be much like the joint - if you don't need to know how to calculate such in a variety of applications (and many, even most, don't), such "quick tricks" are often a real time-saver. There are all sorts of tricks like that out there, and some of them are pretty cool. I've gotten a lot of use from a table of compound cuts (for things like crown moulding), so it's just "dial in and drop the blade" rather than figure it all out. If you aren't already familiar with it, you might get ahold of "Idyll of the Split Bamboo Rod" by George Holden. I'm fairly sure there was at least one reprint, and should be readily available. I'm not familiar with it, beyond the mention of Holden in the Garrison book. We haven't got it, but there is a copy of the original 1920 edition downtown. The Derrydale edition (current Derrydale) is still available apparently. Interesting that the original is "Idyl..." while the modern edition has "corrected" the title to "Idyll..." Interesting - don't recall that I've never noticed that. I'm not sure where my copy is, and given the situation, it may be gone. TC, R |
Cork filler (need to buy or make)
wrote in message ... On Wed, 7 Dec 2005 14:53:49 -0600, "Wolfgang" wrote: Oh for God's sake, you fatuous idiot! You cut out a flat bottomed section with vertical ends including the blemish. You cut another flat bottomed piece of fresh cork to fit and stand proud. You cement it in place using contact cement. You sand it flush. Elapsed time......30-45 minutes.......for someone not particularly adept with tools. Given another lifetime or two, YOU could probably even mange it. Oh for God's sake, you idiotically idiotic idiot who idiotically tends to idiotic idiocies! You wrap it with duct tape and go fishing. No fitting, no sanding, no cement. Elapsed time.....15 seconds...well, for normal folks. For you, 15 seconds for the tape, too......after spending 43 hours proving how little you know about duct tape. Given another lifetime or two, you could probably really manage to show how little you actually learned in this one... Come on, dicklet.....break out of the straight jacket. Dare to be somebody. Tell us just one thing.....one teensy little thing.....that you've actually done in what we may generously refer to as your life. ..."fatuous idiot"....hee, hee, hee, AND tee-hee, too, O.k., so you REALLY know how to hurt a guy. See.....that's a start.....that's an accomplishment......right? Eleven-and-a-half eagles......dick You can't imagine how this mantra enhances your status in this group. Granted, it's nowhere near as imaginative and impressive as "ideology sucks", but hey, there's no doubting that's it's every bit as pregnant with meaning. Wolfgang who is cut to the quick.....AGAIN!.....but will probably bear up for just one more round. and didn't i tell y'all we were gonna have some fun for a few days? :) |
Cork filler (need to buy or make)
Wayne Knight wrote:
I've done this with three rods so far and two pairs of my wife's birkenstocks. Damned libs. ;-) -- TL, Tim --------------------------- http://css.sbcma.com/timj/ |
Cork filler (need to buy or make)
"Tim J." wrote in message ... Wayne Knight wrote: I've done this with three rods so far and two pairs of my wife's birkenstocks. Damned libs. ;-) Grossly unfair and stereotypical! :( Wayne has since acquired many more rods. :) Wolfgang or so i've heard.....i dunno.....all i saw was some dumb old book. |
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