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Attaching crankbaits
I am still looking for the ultimate way to change crankbaits quickly.
I have tried Duo-Lok snaps(they aren't centered that well and make the bait run to the side) and Normans Speed Clips(I lost a spinnerbait because it came off the clip). I now ALL my spinnerbaits directly but I was wondering about crankbait changing. Thanks |
Attaching crankbaits
I have been using Duo- Lock snaps for years without a problem..Laker
makes a small simple snap that works well with crankbaits, they take some getting use to, but they are secure and crankbaits run pretty straight.. I found them in Wal Mart.. I fish therefore I lie |
Attaching crankbaits
"SHREDİ" wrote in message
news:migHb.31489$gN.9387@fed1read05... I am still looking for the ultimate way to change crankbaits quickly. I have tried Duo-Lok snaps(they aren't centered that well and make the bait run to the side) and Normans Speed Clips(I lost a spinnerbait because it came off the clip). I now ALL my spinnerbaits directly but I was wondering about crankbait changing. I use the duo-lock snaps as well, but I tend to modify them ever so slightly. I've put a pic over on ABPF. In a nutshell, the manufacturing process is a little loose on the smaller snaps. The area where the snap closes is usually at an angle, when it should be more perpendicular to the flat of the body (creating a flat for the snap process). The stress caused when you clip it shut on thta angle seems to make them less flat. By bending this a little you can make the profile flatter. I also clamp down on the bend where the snap is doubled back over the wire itself to create a loop. This holds a little better, and also helps flatten the profile. The picture might help a little... When you get ready to put it on, over spread the wire a little. This creates a better tension in the closed position, and makes it more difficult to snap. This makes the snap less likely to spring open. To get it to close, push upward on the bottom of the curve (where the split ring will rest) as you're closing it, or close with your pliers. Finally, *always* have the opening of the snap facing the rear of the bait. That way, when you bump across things, the snap is much less likely to be opened. Using these little tricks, I've had good success with the snap. They only take a couple seconds, and seem to make a difference. I use it on all of my cranks and hard bodied topwaters... -- Andrew Kidd http://www.amiasoft.com/ - Software for the rest of us! http://www.rofb.net/ - ROFB Newsgroup Home |
Attaching crankbaits
Thanks for the help and pic Andrew!
Andrew Kidd wrote: "SHREDİ" wrote in message news:migHb.31489$gN.9387@fed1read05... I am still looking for the ultimate way to change crankbaits quickly. I have tried Duo-Lok snaps(they aren't centered that well and make the bait run to the side) and Normans Speed Clips(I lost a spinnerbait because it came off the clip). I now ALL my spinnerbaits directly but I was wondering about crankbait changing. I use the duo-lock snaps as well, but I tend to modify them ever so slightly. I've put a pic over on ABPF. In a nutshell, the manufacturing process is a little loose on the smaller snaps. The area where the snap closes is usually at an angle, when it should be more perpendicular to the flat of the body (creating a flat for the snap process). The stress caused when you clip it shut on thta angle seems to make them less flat. By bending this a little you can make the profile flatter. I also clamp down on the bend where the snap is doubled back over the wire itself to create a loop. This holds a little better, and also helps flatten the profile. The picture might help a little... When you get ready to put it on, over spread the wire a little. This creates a better tension in the closed position, and makes it more difficult to snap. This makes the snap less likely to spring open. To get it to close, push upward on the bottom of the curve (where the split ring will rest) as you're closing it, or close with your pliers. Finally, *always* have the opening of the snap facing the rear of the bait. That way, when you bump across things, the snap is much less likely to be opened. Using these little tricks, I've had good success with the snap. They only take a couple seconds, and seem to make a difference. I use it on all of my cranks and hard bodied topwaters... |
Attaching crankbaits
I retie when changing crank baits. The knot would be less likely to slip under
this process. I suppose if i used snaps i may tend to change lures more often. Is it necessary to use snaps? |
Attaching crankbaits
Shred, just how long does it take you to change a bait?
I can do it in 10 seconds. As far as I know adding a cliup or snap of any type can detract from a crankbait's intended action. Warren -- http://www.fishingworld.com/MesaTackleSupply/ http://www.outdoorfrontiers.com http://www.secretweaponlures.com http://www.warrenwolk.com/ http://www.tri-statebassmasters.com/ "SHREDİ" wrote in message news:_gpHb.31549$gN.8931@fed1read05... Thanks for the help and pic Andrew! Andrew Kidd wrote: "SHREDİ" wrote in message news:migHb.31489$gN.9387@fed1read05... I am still looking for the ultimate way to change crankbaits quickly. I have tried Duo-Lok snaps(they aren't centered that well and make the bait run to the side) and Normans Speed Clips(I lost a spinnerbait because it came off the clip). I now ALL my spinnerbaits directly but I was wondering about crankbait changing. I use the duo-lock snaps as well, but I tend to modify them ever so slightly. I've put a pic over on ABPF. In a nutshell, the manufacturing process is a little loose on the smaller snaps. The area where the snap closes is usually at an angle, when it should be more perpendicular to the flat of the body (creating a flat for the snap process). The stress caused when you clip it shut on thta angle seems to make them less flat. By bending this a little you can make the profile flatter. I also clamp down on the bend where the snap is doubled back over the wire itself to create a loop. This holds a little better, and also helps flatten the profile. The picture might help a little... When you get ready to put it on, over spread the wire a little. This creates a better tension in the closed position, and makes it more difficult to snap. This makes the snap less likely to spring open. To get it to close, push upward on the bottom of the curve (where the split ring will rest) as you're closing it, or close with your pliers. Finally, *always* have the opening of the snap facing the rear of the bait. That way, when you bump across things, the snap is much less likely to be opened. Using these little tricks, I've had good success with the snap. They only take a couple seconds, and seem to make a difference. I use it on all of my cranks and hard bodied topwaters... |
Attaching crankbaits
SHREDİ wrote in message news:migHb.31489$gN.9387@fed1read05... I have tried Duo-Lok snaps(they aren't centered that well and make the bait run to the side) I've been using small duolocks for years and have never noticed any problems. |
Attaching crankbaits
Warren wrote: "As far as I know adding a cliup or snap of any type can
detract from a crankbait's intended action." If the clip or snap replaces the original snap ring, in most cases it will enhance or allow the crankbait to achieve its max action. A snap swivel will kill a lures action. -- Craig Baugher |
Attaching crankbaits
go-bassn wrote:
Shred, just how long does it take you to change a bait? I can do it in 10 seconds. As far as I know adding a cliup or snap of any type can detract from a crankbait's intended action. Warren Do you remove the split ring(if it has one) and tie a "Rapala" type knot to allow movement of the bait or do you tie it tight? I thought that removing the ring and tying directly, with a standard knot, would inhibit the side to side movement. FYI: I have removed the split rings and use a Duo-Lock. I was just looking for a better snap because I use the small Duo-Lock snaps and they seem to get out of shape and affect the lure's tracking. "SHREDİ" wrote in message news:_gpHb.31549$gN.8931@fed1read05... Thanks for the help and pic Andrew! Andrew Kidd wrote: "SHREDİ" wrote in message news:migHb.31489$gN.9387@fed1read05... I am still looking for the ultimate way to change crankbaits quickly. I have tried Duo-Lok snaps(they aren't centered that well and make the bait run to the side) and Normans Speed Clips(I lost a spinnerbait because it came off the clip). I now ALL my spinnerbaits directly but I was wondering about crankbait changing. I use the duo-lock snaps as well, but I tend to modify them ever so slightly. I've put a pic over on ABPF. In a nutshell, the manufacturing process is a little loose on the smaller snaps. The area where the snap closes is usually at an angle, when it should be more perpendicular to the flat of the body (creating a flat for the snap process). The stress caused when you clip it shut on thta angle seems to make them less flat. By bending this a little you can make the profile flatter. I also clamp down on the bend where the snap is doubled back over the wire itself to create a loop. This holds a little better, and also helps flatten the profile. The picture might help a little... When you get ready to put it on, over spread the wire a little. This creates a better tension in the closed position, and makes it more difficult to snap. This makes the snap less likely to spring open. To get it to close, push upward on the bottom of the curve (where the split ring will rest) as you're closing it, or close with your pliers. Finally, *always* have the opening of the snap facing the rear of the bait. That way, when you bump across things, the snap is much less likely to be opened. Using these little tricks, I've had good success with the snap. They only take a couple seconds, and seem to make a difference. I use it on all of my cranks and hard bodied topwaters... |
Attaching crankbaits
I get rid of the snap ring on all my crankbaits and use Norman Speed clips.
I have landed bass to 13lbs on them and drum to 30+. They work great. Carlos |
Attaching crankbaits
SHRED,
I personally retie every time I change cranks. I pretty much use the rapala loop knot , depending on how deep I am fishing. I figure I don't want to take any chances with action or presentation with a snap. After retying for years I am finally starting to get pretty fast at it . Bottom line is the more time you spend in the water the more fish you are going to catch. Chris "SHREDİ" wrote in message news:migHb.31489$gN.9387@fed1read05... I am still looking for the ultimate way to change crankbaits quickly. I have tried Duo-Lok snaps(they aren't centered that well and make the bait run to the side) and Normans Speed Clips(I lost a spinnerbait because it came off the clip). I now ALL my spinnerbaits directly but I was wondering about crankbait changing. Thanks |
Attaching crankbaits
On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 16:20:47 GMT, "Carlos"
wrote: I get rid of the snap ring on all my crankbaits and use Norman Speed clips. I have landed bass to 13lbs on them and drum to 30+. They work great. Carlos I also use the speed clips. I remove the split rings from the crank baits first. One thing to remember is they don't last forever. Check their condition and if they get bent out of shape, replace them. I replace mine every few trips, especially when I am cranking a lot. Richard g www.bassstalkers.com |
Attaching crankbaits
I also use the speed clips. I remove the split rings from the crank
baits first. One thing to remember is they don't last forever. Check their condition and if they get bent out of shape, replace them AMEN! I have sent a few baits sailing into the far yonder because the speed clip opened at some time and I did not notice. Brad |
Attaching crankbaits
"Richard g" wrote in message
... On Sun, 28 Dec 2003 16:20:47 GMT, "Carlos" wrote: I get rid of the snap ring on all my crankbaits and use Norman Speed clips. I have landed bass to 13lbs on them and drum to 30+. They work great. Carlos I also use the speed clips. I remove the split rings from the crank baits first. One thing to remember is they don't last forever. Check their condition and if they get bent out of shape, replace them. I replace mine every few trips, especially when I am cranking a lot. Richard g www.bassstalkers.com I disagree about removing the split ring, personally. A two link chain has more freedom of movement then one, and should actually act more like a rapala knot. With the split ring removed, the clip then is moving through the water with more resistance when if it is left to cut through the water with its profile. I like having the opening on that clip facing directly away from the direction the bait is traveling. I almost never have one pop open. my 2 cents... -- Andrew Kidd http://www.amiasoft.com/ - Software for the rest of us! http://www.rofb.net/ - ROFB Newsgroup Home |
Attaching crankbaits
On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 11:41:05 GMT, "Andrew Kidd"
wrote: I disagree about removing the split ring, personally. A two link chain has more freedom of movement then one, and should actually act more like a rapala knot. With the split ring removed, the clip then is moving through the water with more resistance when if it is left to cut through the water with its profile. I like having the opening on that clip facing directly away from the direction the bait is traveling. I almost never have one pop open. my 2 cents... Interesting, I was thinking the speed clip was replacing the split ring. That was my reason for removing the stock ring. I have used it with a spit ring on the Thundershad cranks. Only because I liked the oval split ring that comes on the TS. I noticed that if I get hung with a crank and pull real hard trying to free it the Bill Norman clip can get bent. I replace them right away after getting hung. Richard g www.bassstalkers.com |
Attaching crankbaits
I remove the split rings from the crank
baits first I am surprised at that. I have never had a split ring fail, but have had clips fail. But I retie enough that I would retie every time I switch baits anyway. I will use a clip on some cranks when fishing them on light line, but never use clips with line over 10 pound test and hardly every on lighter line. Ronnie http://fishing.about.com |
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