Uni-Leaders
 

http://www.flyfisherman.com/skills/jbleaders/

The above link (from the list that Mike posted in the "Dead
Drift"thread) refers to Gary Borger's Uni-Leader designs. Has anyone
ever tied some up and tried them? The design appeals to me because its
simple (and even more importantly) it would cost me nothing because I
already have the right leader material!

g.c.

Not that I'm cheap or anything...

g.c.

O.K. I *am* cheap.

Uni-Leaders
 

"George Cleveland" wrote in message
...
http://www.flyfisherman.com/skills/jbleaders/

The above link (from the list that Mike posted in the "Dead
Drift"thread) refers to Gary Borger's Uni-Leader designs. Has anyone
ever tied some up and tried them? The design appeals to me because its
simple (and even more importantly) it would cost me nothing because I
already have the right leader material!

g.c.

Not that I'm cheap or anything...

g.c.

O.K. I *am* cheap.



Yeah, they work OK. If you use some other brands of nylon ( instead of
maxima), you have to change some dimensions, but these are rarely very
critical.

TL
MC

Uni-Leaders
 

"George Cleveland" wrote in message
...
http://www.flyfisherman.com/skills/jbleaders/

The above link (from the list that Mike posted in the "Dead
Drift"thread) refers to Gary Borger's Uni-Leader designs. Has anyone
ever tied some up and tried them? The design appeals to me because its
simple (and even more importantly) it would cost me nothing because I
already have the right leader material!

g.c.

Not that I'm cheap or anything...

g.c.

O.K. I *am* cheap.



Yeah, they work OK. If you use some other brands of nylon ( instead of
maxima), you have to change some dimensions, but these are rarely very
critical.

TL
MC

Uni-Leaders
 

On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 21:10:02 +0200, "Mike Connor"
wrote:


"George Cleveland" wrote in message
.. .
http://www.flyfisherman.com/skills/jbleaders/

The above link (from the list that Mike posted in the "Dead
Drift"thread) refers to Gary Borger's Uni-Leader designs. Has anyone
ever tied some up and tried them? The design appeals to me because its
simple (and even more importantly) it would cost me nothing because I
already have the right leader material!

g.c.

Not that I'm cheap or anything...

g.c.

O.K. I *am* cheap.



Yeah, they work OK. If you use some other brands of nylon ( instead of
maxima), you have to change some dimensions, but these are rarely very
critical.

TL
MC

Mike, by "O.K." do you mean as good as or better than knotless
leaders? If they are only as good as knotless ones I won't bother
expending the effort to whip some up.

g.c.

Not only cheap, but lazy too.

Uni-Leaders
 

On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 21:10:02 +0200, "Mike Connor"
wrote:


"George Cleveland" wrote in message
.. .
http://www.flyfisherman.com/skills/jbleaders/

The above link (from the list that Mike posted in the "Dead
Drift"thread) refers to Gary Borger's Uni-Leader designs. Has anyone
ever tied some up and tried them? The design appeals to me because its
simple (and even more importantly) it would cost me nothing because I
already have the right leader material!

g.c.

Not that I'm cheap or anything...

g.c.

O.K. I *am* cheap.



Yeah, they work OK. If you use some other brands of nylon ( instead of
maxima), you have to change some dimensions, but these are rarely very
critical.

TL
MC

Mike, by "O.K." do you mean as good as or better than knotless
leaders? If they are only as good as knotless ones I won't bother
expending the effort to whip some up.

g.c.

Not only cheap, but lazy too.

Uni-Leaders
 

George Cleveland wrote:
http://www.flyfisherman.com/skills/jbleaders/

The above link (from the list that Mike posted in the "Dead
Drift"thread) refers to Gary Borger's Uni-Leader designs. Has anyone
ever tied some up and tried them?

Yes. Personally, I prefer hand tied leaders when fishing clear water.
That Uni-Body design is especially good when a delicate presentation
isn't necessary. I still think any leaders with knots is a royal PITA
when fishing weeded areas. I have one of the few remaining Ernie
Harrison's Blood Knot Machines that make tying them a snap. I'm not sure
if he has any left, but I'd recommend grabbing one or two if he does.

The design appeals to me because its
simple (and even more importantly) it would cost me nothing because I
already have the right leader material!

g.c.

Not that I'm cheap or anything...
O.K. I *am* cheap.

Not that there's anything wrong with that. :)
--
TL,
Tim
------------------------
http://css.sbcma.com/timj

Uni-Leaders
 

George Cleveland wrote:
http://www.flyfisherman.com/skills/jbleaders/

The above link (from the list that Mike posted in the "Dead
Drift"thread) refers to Gary Borger's Uni-Leader designs. Has anyone
ever tied some up and tried them?

Yes. Personally, I prefer hand tied leaders when fishing clear water.
That Uni-Body design is especially good when a delicate presentation
isn't necessary. I still think any leaders with knots is a royal PITA
when fishing weeded areas. I have one of the few remaining Ernie
Harrison's Blood Knot Machines that make tying them a snap. I'm not sure
if he has any left, but I'd recommend grabbing one or two if he does.

The design appeals to me because its
simple (and even more importantly) it would cost me nothing because I
already have the right leader material!

g.c.

Not that I'm cheap or anything...
O.K. I *am* cheap.

Not that there's anything wrong with that. :)
--
TL,
Tim
------------------------
http://css.sbcma.com/timj

Uni-Leaders
 

"Tim J." wrote

when fishing weeded areas. I have one of the few remaining Ernie
Harrison's Blood Knot Machines that make tying them a snap. I'm not sure
if he has any left, but I'd recommend grabbing one or two if he does.


I can't tie a blood knot worth a damn ... but prefer homebuilt leaders ( I'd
throw in the same exception, weedy waters ) ... where do I look for Mr
Harrison and one of his machines ?

Uni-Leaders
 

"Tim J." wrote

when fishing weeded areas. I have one of the few remaining Ernie
Harrison's Blood Knot Machines that make tying them a snap. I'm not sure
if he has any left, but I'd recommend grabbing one or two if he does.


I can't tie a blood knot worth a damn ... but prefer homebuilt leaders ( I'd
throw in the same exception, weedy waters ) ... where do I look for Mr
Harrison and one of his machines ?

Uni-Leaders
 

Larry L wrote:
"Tim J." wrote

when fishing weeded areas. I have one of the few remaining Ernie
Harrison's Blood Knot Machines that make tying them a snap. I'm not
sure if he has any left, but I'd recommend grabbing one or two if he
does.

I can't tie a blood knot worth a damn ... but prefer homebuilt
leaders ( I'd throw in the same exception, weedy waters ) ... where
do I look for Mr Harrison and one of his machines ?

I sent you an email with his info. The machine is pretty ingenious and
simple (I like that part), but the die he used to make the plastic parts
died (pun intended) and he only had a few laying around when I bought
mine a while ago. Good luck.
--
TL,
Tim
------------------------
http://css.sbcma.com/timj

Uni-Leaders
 

Larry L wrote:
"Tim J." wrote

when fishing weeded areas. I have one of the few remaining Ernie
Harrison's Blood Knot Machines that make tying them a snap. I'm not
sure if he has any left, but I'd recommend grabbing one or two if he
does.

I can't tie a blood knot worth a damn ... but prefer homebuilt
leaders ( I'd throw in the same exception, weedy waters ) ... where
do I look for Mr Harrison and one of his machines ?

I sent you an email with his info. The machine is pretty ingenious and
simple (I like that part), but the die he used to make the plastic parts
died (pun intended) and he only had a few laying around when I bought
mine a while ago. Good luck.
--
TL,
Tim
------------------------
http://css.sbcma.com/timj

Uni-Leaders
 

Larry L wrote:
"Tim J." wrote

when fishing weeded areas. I have one of the few remaining Ernie
Harrison's Blood Knot Machines that make tying them a snap. I'm not
sure if he has any left, but I'd recommend grabbing one or two if he
does.

I can't tie a blood knot worth a damn ... but prefer homebuilt
leaders ( I'd throw in the same exception, weedy waters ) ... where
do I look for Mr Harrison and one of his machines ?

I sent you an email with his info. The machine is pretty ingenious and
simple (I like that part), but the die he used to make the plastic parts
died (pun intended) and he only had a few laying around when I bought
mine a while ago. Good luck.
--
TL,
Tim
------------------------
http://css.sbcma.com/timj

Uni-Leaders
 

"George Cleveland" wrote in message
...
SNIP
Mike, by "O.K." do you mean as good as or better than knotless
leaders? If they are only as good as knotless ones I won't bother
expending the effort to whip some up.

g.c.

Not only cheap, but lazy too.




OK since you asked. In my opinion they are nowhere near as good or as
convenient as good knotless tapered leaders. Given the choice, I would go
for knotless leaders every time. I have a couple of mods for knotless
leaders which make them far more useful to me. They also last me a lot
longer, so the initial cost is not really a factor.

Over the years, I have tried hundreds of things, some work alright, some are
well nigh useless. In many cases, even trying them was really a waste of
time, but I learned a lot as a result.

I no longer bother experimenting much with leaders at all, as I can do
everything I want with the modified knotless leaders.

The modifications are quite simple as well. I use a needle knotted butt
section directly on my line, if necessary with two or more sections, to
obtain the diameter and taper I require, as the knotless leader butt
sections are usually of too small a diameter. I use a leader ring at the
end of the knotless leader, as I can then change tippet, or droppers etc
etc, with no fuss and bother, without shortening or otherwise damaging the
leader, and very quickly, and without wasting nylon. This is also much more
flexible in use than knotted leaders.

Often, such a leader will last me a whole season, ( even when I fished a
great deal). I merely change the tippet, droppers etc as required. With
three knotless tapered leaders in different configurations, suitably
modified, I can use practically any standard technique, and a few more
besides. I usually carry spares as well of course. But a total of six new
knotless tapers would normally last me a whole season, and often a lot
longer.

Nylon deteriorates, but the weakest point in a leader is always the tippet,
and I change this regularly.

The function is what I require, all the rest may be nice, ( or not!), but
usually superfluous.

TL
MC

Uni-Leaders
 

"George Cleveland" wrote in message
...
SNIP
Mike, by "O.K." do you mean as good as or better than knotless
leaders? If they are only as good as knotless ones I won't bother
expending the effort to whip some up.

g.c.

Not only cheap, but lazy too.




OK since you asked. In my opinion they are nowhere near as good or as
convenient as good knotless tapered leaders. Given the choice, I would go
for knotless leaders every time. I have a couple of mods for knotless
leaders which make them far more useful to me. They also last me a lot
longer, so the initial cost is not really a factor.

Over the years, I have tried hundreds of things, some work alright, some are
well nigh useless. In many cases, even trying them was really a waste of
time, but I learned a lot as a result.

I no longer bother experimenting much with leaders at all, as I can do
everything I want with the modified knotless leaders.

The modifications are quite simple as well. I use a needle knotted butt
section directly on my line, if necessary with two or more sections, to
obtain the diameter and taper I require, as the knotless leader butt
sections are usually of too small a diameter. I use a leader ring at the
end of the knotless leader, as I can then change tippet, or droppers etc
etc, with no fuss and bother, without shortening or otherwise damaging the
leader, and very quickly, and without wasting nylon. This is also much more
flexible in use than knotted leaders.

Often, such a leader will last me a whole season, ( even when I fished a
great deal). I merely change the tippet, droppers etc as required. With
three knotless tapered leaders in different configurations, suitably
modified, I can use practically any standard technique, and a few more
besides. I usually carry spares as well of course. But a total of six new
knotless tapers would normally last me a whole season, and often a lot
longer.

Nylon deteriorates, but the weakest point in a leader is always the tippet,
and I change this regularly.

The function is what I require, all the rest may be nice, ( or not!), but
usually superfluous.

TL
MC

Uni-Leaders
 

"Tim J." wrote in message
...
SNIP
I sent you an email with his info. The machine is pretty ingenious and
simple (I like that part), but the die he used to make the plastic parts
died (pun intended) and he only had a few laying around when I bought
mine a while ago. Good luck.
--
TL,
Tim
------------------------
http://css.sbcma.com/timj



Ernie´s machine is very good if you want to make leaders at home. It is also
good for "production tying" of modified leaders. I did a review of it a
long time ago. It is a great machine.

TL
MC

Uni-Leaders
 

"Tim J." wrote in message
...
SNIP
I sent you an email with his info. The machine is pretty ingenious and
simple (I like that part), but the die he used to make the plastic parts
died (pun intended) and he only had a few laying around when I bought
mine a while ago. Good luck.
--
TL,
Tim
------------------------
http://css.sbcma.com/timj



Ernie´s machine is very good if you want to make leaders at home. It is also
good for "production tying" of modified leaders. I did a review of it a
long time ago. It is a great machine.

TL
MC

Uni-Leaders
 

"Mike Connor" wrote

The modifications are quite simple as well. I use a needle knotted butt
section directly on my line, if necessary with two or more sections, to
obtain the diameter and taper I require, as the knotless leader butt
sections are usually of too small a diameter. I use a leader ring at the
end of the knotless leader, as I can then change tippet, or droppers etc
etc, with no fuss and bother, without shortening or otherwise damaging the
leader, and very quickly, and without wasting nylon. This is also much
more
flexible in use than knotted leaders.


Mike, a couple questions/ comments

I'm currently using mainly a section or two of maxima, as butt, tied to a
tapered leader with it's butt removed ... I like stiffer butts than what I
find on tapered leaders ... this sounds very much like your, " if necessary
with two or more sections, to
obtain the diameter and taper I require, as the knotless leader butt
sections are usually of too small a diameter" ... is it" or am I reading
your post incorrectly? If correct, then you are really using a kind of
1/2 hand tied leader, like myself, right?

Second ... the phrase "leader ring" is entirely new to me ..... what is this
in American english ? g

In the previous, much diverted, loop thread I said I use loops, and I do not
out of loopophilia, rather ... mainly because its the BUTT not the tippet
that I feel the need to change to match different techniques and conditions.
Again this sounds much like your, "With three knotless tapered leaders in
different configurations, suitably modified, I can use practically any
standard technique, and a few more besides " Are these three mainly BUTT
differences? and you are nail knotting the correct one on as you change
conditions/ techniques even if they change several times a day ?

Uni-Leaders
 

"Mike Connor" wrote

The modifications are quite simple as well. I use a needle knotted butt
section directly on my line, if necessary with two or more sections, to
obtain the diameter and taper I require, as the knotless leader butt
sections are usually of too small a diameter. I use a leader ring at the
end of the knotless leader, as I can then change tippet, or droppers etc
etc, with no fuss and bother, without shortening or otherwise damaging the
leader, and very quickly, and without wasting nylon. This is also much
more
flexible in use than knotted leaders.


Mike, a couple questions/ comments

I'm currently using mainly a section or two of maxima, as butt, tied to a
tapered leader with it's butt removed ... I like stiffer butts than what I
find on tapered leaders ... this sounds very much like your, " if necessary
with two or more sections, to
obtain the diameter and taper I require, as the knotless leader butt
sections are usually of too small a diameter" ... is it" or am I reading
your post incorrectly? If correct, then you are really using a kind of
1/2 hand tied leader, like myself, right?

Second ... the phrase "leader ring" is entirely new to me ..... what is this
in American english ? g

In the previous, much diverted, loop thread I said I use loops, and I do not
out of loopophilia, rather ... mainly because its the BUTT not the tippet
that I feel the need to change to match different techniques and conditions.
Again this sounds much like your, "With three knotless tapered leaders in
different configurations, suitably modified, I can use practically any
standard technique, and a few more besides " Are these three mainly BUTT
differences? and you are nail knotting the correct one on as you change
conditions/ techniques even if they change several times a day ?

Uni-Leaders
 

Larry L wrote:
"Mike Connor" wrote

The modifications are quite simple as well. I use a needle knotted
butt section directly on my line, if necessary with two or more
sections, to obtain the diameter and taper I require, as the
knotless leader butt sections are usually of too small a diameter.
I use a leader ring at the end of the knotless leader, as I can then
change tippet, or droppers etc etc, with no fuss and bother, without
shortening or otherwise damaging the leader, and very quickly, and
without wasting nylon. This is also much more
flexible in use than knotted leaders.

Mike, a couple questions/ comments

I'm currently using mainly a section or two of maxima, as butt, tied
to a tapered leader with it's butt removed ... I like stiffer butts
than what I find on tapered leaders ... this sounds very much like
your, " if necessary with two or more sections, to
obtain the diameter and taper I require, as the knotless leader butt
sections are usually of too small a diameter" ... is it" or am I
reading your post incorrectly? If correct, then you are really
using a kind of 1/2 hand tied leader, like myself, right?

Second ... the phrase "leader ring" is entirely new to me ..... what
is this in American english ? g

In the previous, much diverted, loop thread I said I use loops, and I
do not out of loopophilia, rather ... mainly because its the BUTT
not the tippet that I feel the need to change to match different
techniques and conditions. Again this sounds much like your, "With
three knotless tapered leaders in different configurations, suitably
modified, I can use practically any standard technique, and a few
more besides " Are these three mainly BUTT differences?

After reading your post, i realized the main feature I like better about
hand tied leaders - the stiffer butt section. I've never tried it the
way Mike describes it, but my guess is that I would like the tapered
leader with butt section removed tied onto the stiffer butt section of
Maxima Chameleon (I sometimes use 30 pound / .022 inch, but usually 25
pound / .020 inch). It's just that the blood knot machine is soooooo
much fun, I can't stop! ;-)
--
TL,
Tim
------------------------
http://css.sbcma.com/timj

Uni-Leaders
 

Larry L wrote:
"Mike Connor" wrote

The modifications are quite simple as well. I use a needle knotted
butt section directly on my line, if necessary with two or more
sections, to obtain the diameter and taper I require, as the
knotless leader butt sections are usually of too small a diameter.
I use a leader ring at the end of the knotless leader, as I can then
change tippet, or droppers etc etc, with no fuss and bother, without
shortening or otherwise damaging the leader, and very quickly, and
without wasting nylon. This is also much more
flexible in use than knotted leaders.

Mike, a couple questions/ comments

I'm currently using mainly a section or two of maxima, as butt, tied
to a tapered leader with it's butt removed ... I like stiffer butts
than what I find on tapered leaders ... this sounds very much like
your, " if necessary with two or more sections, to
obtain the diameter and taper I require, as the knotless leader butt
sections are usually of too small a diameter" ... is it" or am I
reading your post incorrectly? If correct, then you are really
using a kind of 1/2 hand tied leader, like myself, right?

Second ... the phrase "leader ring" is entirely new to me ..... what
is this in American english ? g

In the previous, much diverted, loop thread I said I use loops, and I
do not out of loopophilia, rather ... mainly because its the BUTT
not the tippet that I feel the need to change to match different
techniques and conditions. Again this sounds much like your, "With
three knotless tapered leaders in different configurations, suitably
modified, I can use practically any standard technique, and a few
more besides " Are these three mainly BUTT differences?

After reading your post, i realized the main feature I like better about
hand tied leaders - the stiffer butt section. I've never tried it the
way Mike describes it, but my guess is that I would like the tapered
leader with butt section removed tied onto the stiffer butt section of
Maxima Chameleon (I sometimes use 30 pound / .022 inch, but usually 25
pound / .020 inch). It's just that the blood knot machine is soooooo
much fun, I can't stop! ;-)
--
TL,
Tim
------------------------
http://css.sbcma.com/timj

Uni-Leaders
 

Larry L wrote:
"Mike Connor" wrote

The modifications are quite simple as well. I use a needle knotted
butt section directly on my line, if necessary with two or more
sections, to obtain the diameter and taper I require, as the
knotless leader butt sections are usually of too small a diameter.
I use a leader ring at the end of the knotless leader, as I can then
change tippet, or droppers etc etc, with no fuss and bother, without
shortening or otherwise damaging the leader, and very quickly, and
without wasting nylon. This is also much more
flexible in use than knotted leaders.

Mike, a couple questions/ comments

I'm currently using mainly a section or two of maxima, as butt, tied
to a tapered leader with it's butt removed ... I like stiffer butts
than what I find on tapered leaders ... this sounds very much like
your, " if necessary with two or more sections, to
obtain the diameter and taper I require, as the knotless leader butt
sections are usually of too small a diameter" ... is it" or am I
reading your post incorrectly? If correct, then you are really
using a kind of 1/2 hand tied leader, like myself, right?

Second ... the phrase "leader ring" is entirely new to me ..... what
is this in American english ? g

In the previous, much diverted, loop thread I said I use loops, and I
do not out of loopophilia, rather ... mainly because its the BUTT
not the tippet that I feel the need to change to match different
techniques and conditions. Again this sounds much like your, "With
three knotless tapered leaders in different configurations, suitably
modified, I can use practically any standard technique, and a few
more besides " Are these three mainly BUTT differences?

After reading your post, i realized the main feature I like better about
hand tied leaders - the stiffer butt section. I've never tried it the
way Mike describes it, but my guess is that I would like the tapered
leader with butt section removed tied onto the stiffer butt section of
Maxima Chameleon (I sometimes use 30 pound / .022 inch, but usually 25
pound / .020 inch). It's just that the blood knot machine is soooooo
much fun, I can't stop! ;-)
--
TL,
Tim
------------------------
http://css.sbcma.com/timj

Uni-Leaders
 

"Larry L" wrote in message
...
SNIP

Mike, a couple questions/ comments

I'm currently using mainly a section or two of maxima, as butt, tied to a
tapered leader with it's butt removed ... I like stiffer butts than what I
find on tapered leaders ... this sounds very much like your, " if
necessary
with two or more sections, to
obtain the diameter and taper I require, as the knotless leader butt
sections are usually of too small a diameter" ... is it" or am I reading
your post incorrectly? If correct, then you are really using a kind of
1/2 hand tied leader, like myself, right?


That is correct.

Maxima leaders are pretty good though, I don´t usually have to change
anything, I merely add a butt section, and a leader ring at the approriate
length.


Second ... the phrase "leader ring" is entirely new to me ..... what is
this
in American english ? g


Leader ring =
http://www.sportfish-flyfishing.co.u...Tyers_964.html

In the previous, much diverted, loop thread I said I use loops, and I do
not
out of loopophilia, rather ... mainly because its the BUTT not the
tippet
that I feel the need to change to match different techniques and
conditions.
Again this sounds much like your, "With three knotless tapered leaders in
different configurations, suitably modified, I can use practically any
standard technique, and a few more besides " Are these three mainly
BUTT
differences? and you are nail knotting the correct one on as you change
conditions/ techniques even if they change several times a day ?



That is also correct. I modify the butts, and on the river I either change
the leaders, or modify the tippets as required.

Invariably the butts will not turn the leader over properly without
modification, and the tippets are not always as one wishes. This is easy and
quick to modify with the leader rings. One may also use "forcing butts", or
build "slack line leaders" and the like, merely by adding the appropriate
tippet to a previously modified leader.

One has less knots than in a knotted leader ( Amazing that! :)), and one may
also use any diameter tippet as required, to force extreme turnover, extreme
drop, etc etc, merely by knotting the appropriate tippet to the ring. The
knots are secure, as they are not nylon to nylon, but nylon to ring, and
there is no need to observe the decreasing diameter rule ( Joining nylon of
widely varying diameter with blood, and other knots, is unreliable at best).

Really a very simple, versatile, effective, and cheap system.

TL
MC

Uni-Leaders
 

"Larry L" wrote in message
...
SNIP

Mike, a couple questions/ comments

I'm currently using mainly a section or two of maxima, as butt, tied to a
tapered leader with it's butt removed ... I like stiffer butts than what I
find on tapered leaders ... this sounds very much like your, " if
necessary
with two or more sections, to
obtain the diameter and taper I require, as the knotless leader butt
sections are usually of too small a diameter" ... is it" or am I reading
your post incorrectly? If correct, then you are really using a kind of
1/2 hand tied leader, like myself, right?


That is correct.

Maxima leaders are pretty good though, I don´t usually have to change
anything, I merely add a butt section, and a leader ring at the approriate
length.


Second ... the phrase "leader ring" is entirely new to me ..... what is
this
in American english ? g


Leader ring =
http://www.sportfish-flyfishing.co.u...Tyers_964.html

In the previous, much diverted, loop thread I said I use loops, and I do
not
out of loopophilia, rather ... mainly because its the BUTT not the
tippet
that I feel the need to change to match different techniques and
conditions.
Again this sounds much like your, "With three knotless tapered leaders in
different configurations, suitably modified, I can use practically any
standard technique, and a few more besides " Are these three mainly
BUTT
differences? and you are nail knotting the correct one on as you change
conditions/ techniques even if they change several times a day ?



That is also correct. I modify the butts, and on the river I either change
the leaders, or modify the tippets as required.

Invariably the butts will not turn the leader over properly without
modification, and the tippets are not always as one wishes. This is easy and
quick to modify with the leader rings. One may also use "forcing butts", or
build "slack line leaders" and the like, merely by adding the appropriate
tippet to a previously modified leader.

One has less knots than in a knotted leader ( Amazing that! :)), and one may
also use any diameter tippet as required, to force extreme turnover, extreme
drop, etc etc, merely by knotting the appropriate tippet to the ring. The
knots are secure, as they are not nylon to nylon, but nylon to ring, and
there is no need to observe the decreasing diameter rule ( Joining nylon of
widely varying diameter with blood, and other knots, is unreliable at best).

Really a very simple, versatile, effective, and cheap system.

TL
MC

Uni-Leaders
 

"Mike Connor" wrote


Really a very simple, versatile, effective, and cheap system.



I had never heard of these rings ... wonder if I can find some in the USA or
order them shipped here ( for less than a huge cost ) how much is a £ these
days, in USD

Uni-Leaders
 

"Mike Connor" wrote


Really a very simple, versatile, effective, and cheap system.



I had never heard of these rings ... wonder if I can find some in the USA or
order them shipped here ( for less than a huge cost ) how much is a £ these
days, in USD

Uni-Leaders
 

"Mike Connor" wrote


Really a very simple, versatile, effective, and cheap system.



I had never heard of these rings ... wonder if I can find some in the USA or
order them shipped here ( for less than a huge cost ) how much is a £ these
days, in USD

Uni-Leaders
 

"Mike Connor" wrote


Really a very simple, versatile, effective, and cheap system.



I had never heard of these rings ... wonder if I can find some in the USA or
order them shipped here ( for less than a huge cost ) how much is a £ these
days, in USD

Uni-Leaders
 

"Larry L" wrote in message
...

"Mike Connor" wrote


Really a very simple, versatile, effective, and cheap system.



I had never heard of these rings ... wonder if I can find some in the USA
or
order them shipped here ( for less than a huge cost ) how much is a £
these
days, in USD



I have no idea what a pound sterling is worth in dollars. Whatever,
Sportfish will ship them to you, it is not that expensive. Apart from
which, if you search around, you will find them in the states. Several shops
there stock Roman Moser equipment, and he sells the rings as well.

At a pinch, simply go to your local watchmaker or jeweller, they use such
rings for various purposes, a box of twenty or so, ( which will last a
lifetime), costs a dollar or less. (About one Euro).

Once you have used them, you will never go back to buggering about with
complicated nylon to nylon knots, and shortening and ruining leaders when
changing tippets, droppers, etc etc.

TL
MC

Uni-Leaders
 

"Larry L" wrote in message
...

"Mike Connor" wrote


Really a very simple, versatile, effective, and cheap system.



I had never heard of these rings ... wonder if I can find some in the USA
or
order them shipped here ( for less than a huge cost ) how much is a £
these
days, in USD



I have no idea what a pound sterling is worth in dollars. Whatever,
Sportfish will ship them to you, it is not that expensive. Apart from
which, if you search around, you will find them in the states. Several shops
there stock Roman Moser equipment, and he sells the rings as well.

At a pinch, simply go to your local watchmaker or jeweller, they use such
rings for various purposes, a box of twenty or so, ( which will last a
lifetime), costs a dollar or less. (About one Euro).

Once you have used them, you will never go back to buggering about with
complicated nylon to nylon knots, and shortening and ruining leaders when
changing tippets, droppers, etc etc.

TL
MC

Uni-Leaders
 

"Larry L" wrote in message
...

"Mike Connor" wrote


Really a very simple, versatile, effective, and cheap system.



I had never heard of these rings ... wonder if I can find some in the USA
or
order them shipped here ( for less than a huge cost ) how much is a £
these
days, in USD



I have no idea what a pound sterling is worth in dollars. Whatever,
Sportfish will ship them to you, it is not that expensive. Apart from
which, if you search around, you will find them in the states. Several shops
there stock Roman Moser equipment, and he sells the rings as well.

At a pinch, simply go to your local watchmaker or jeweller, they use such
rings for various purposes, a box of twenty or so, ( which will last a
lifetime), costs a dollar or less. (About one Euro).

Once you have used them, you will never go back to buggering about with
complicated nylon to nylon knots, and shortening and ruining leaders when
changing tippets, droppers, etc etc.

TL
MC

Uni-Leaders
 

Mike Connor wrote:

I have no idea what a pound sterling is worth in dollars. Whatever,
Sportfish will ship them to you, it is not that expensive. Apart from
which, if you search around, you will find them in the states. Several shops
there stock Roman Moser equipment, and he sells the rings as well.

After reading your posts about the rings, I started looking for them
to use on my homemade furled leaders, and found the RM rings by
searching on "tippet ring":
http://www.anglersupplyhouse.com/def...=item&itmid=86


Chuck Vance

Uni-Leaders
 

Mike Connor wrote:

I have no idea what a pound sterling is worth in dollars. Whatever,
Sportfish will ship them to you, it is not that expensive. Apart from
which, if you search around, you will find them in the states. Several shops
there stock Roman Moser equipment, and he sells the rings as well.

After reading your posts about the rings, I started looking for them
to use on my homemade furled leaders, and found the RM rings by
searching on "tippet ring":
http://www.anglersupplyhouse.com/def...=item&itmid=86


Chuck Vance