super glue
 

Dear Rofftyans,

This question has been posted and answered before, but I can't remember how
others have kept their super glue stored so that it does not evaporate.

I have several tubes of super glue. Two have been opened within the past 6
months. When I went to use the tubes that had been opened, both had dried up
(evaporated). I was careful to close the used tubes as air tight as possible
so this would not happen. Didn't work. I think this has happened to me a few
less than 100 times. Any help would be appreciated.
(Maybe it is a ploy by the manufacturer to keep sales up)
Thanks,
Slow Learner

On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 09:45:43 -0600, "Guy Thornberg"
wrote:

Dear Rofftyans,

This question has been posted and answered before, but I can't remember how
others have kept their super glue stored so that it does not evaporate.

Put it in the freezer along with your Aquaseal.
--
Charlie...
http://www.chocphoto.com/ - photo galleries
http://www.chocphoto.com/roff

Thanks Charlie!
Been fishing since the SJ?
Your photo of Danl deserves an award.
G
www.guysflies.com

"Charlie Choc" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 09:45:43 -0600, "Guy Thornberg"
wrote:

Dear Rofftyans,

This question has been posted and answered before, but I can't remember
how
others have kept their super glue stored so that it does not evaporate.

Put it in the freezer along with your Aquaseal.
--
Charlie...
http://www.chocphoto.com/ - photo galleries
http://www.chocphoto.com/roff

On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 09:45:43 -0600, "Guy Thornberg"
wrote:

Dear Rofftyans,

This question has been posted and answered before, but I can't remember how
others have kept their super glue stored so that it does not evaporate.

I have several tubes of super glue. Two have been opened within the past 6
months. When I went to use the tubes that had been opened, both had dried up
(evaporated). I was careful to close the used tubes as air tight as possible
so this would not happen. Didn't work. I think this has happened to me a few
less than 100 times. Any help would be appreciated.
(Maybe it is a ploy by the manufacturer to keep sales up)
Thanks,
Slow Learner

On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 10:04:39 -0600, "Guy Thornberg"
wrote:

Been fishing since the SJ?

Just once. My favorite stream was 'changed' by the last hurricane that went
through and I spent most of the time just looking around.

How about you?
--
Charlie...
http://www.chocphoto.com/ - photo galleries
http://www.chocphoto.com/roff

Next Saturday we are going to Beavers Bend. Won't get allot of fishing in
though, we are preparing a free BBQ lunch at Syd's Fly Shop in the Park. Can
you join us?

"Charlie Choc" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 10:04:39 -0600, "Guy Thornberg"
wrote:

Been fishing since the SJ?

Just once. My favorite stream was 'changed' by the last hurricane that
went
through and I spent most of the time just looking around.

How about you?
--
Charlie...
http://www.chocphoto.com/ - photo galleries
http://www.chocphoto.com/roff

On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 09:45:43 -0600, "Guy Thornberg"
wrote:

Dear Rofftyans,

This question has been posted and answered before, but I can't remember how
others have kept their super glue stored so that it does not evaporate.

I have several tubes of super glue. Two have been opened within the past 6
months. When I went to use the tubes that had been opened, both had dried up
(evaporated). I was careful to close the used tubes as air tight as possible
so this would not happen. Didn't work. I think this has happened to me a few
less than 100 times. Any help would be appreciated.
(Maybe it is a ploy by the manufacturer to keep sales up)
Thanks,
Slow Learner


Looks like my original post got lost.

Just so you know I'm not making this up, I work for the largest maker
of CA's (AKA cyanoacrylates, superglues) in the world.
The single best thing you can do is to keep CA'sin the freezer (in a
plastic baggie in case of leaks) until ready to use. Then let the
container come to room temperature berofre you start to use it. Thats
because the second best thing you can do is to keep humidity and
condensation as low as possible. CA's don't cure by drying. They
polymerize and are accelerated by temperature, humidity and pH, with
basic surfaces making them cure faster and acidic surfaces inhibiting
cure. Age makes a difference too, and so does brand. Buy the good
stuff and avoid the stuff in dollar stores etc.

Thanks Lou,
Which are the 3 or 4 highest quality brands?
G

"LouF" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 09:45:43 -0600, "Guy Thornberg"
wrote:

Dear Rofftyans,

This question has been posted and answered before, but I can't remember
how
others have kept their super glue stored so that it does not evaporate.

I have several tubes of super glue. Two have been opened within the past
6
months. When I went to use the tubes that had been opened, both had dried
up
(evaporated). I was careful to close the used tubes as air tight as
possible
so this would not happen. Didn't work. I think this has happened to me a
few
less than 100 times. Any help would be appreciated.
(Maybe it is a ploy by the manufacturer to keep sales up)
Thanks,
Slow Learner


Looks like my original post got lost.

Just so you know I'm not making this up, I work for the largest maker
of CA's (AKA cyanoacrylates, superglues) in the world.
The single best thing you can do is to keep CA'sin the freezer (in a
plastic baggie in case of leaks) until ready to use. Then let the
container come to room temperature berofre you start to use it. Thats
because the second best thing you can do is to keep humidity and
condensation as low as possible. CA's don't cure by drying. They
polymerize and are accelerated by temperature, humidity and pH, with
basic surfaces making them cure faster and acidic surfaces inhibiting
cure. Age makes a difference too, and so does brand. Buy the good
stuff and avoid the stuff in dollar stores etc.

Super glue spill!!! on the kichen p-lam. what solvent to use? lacquer
thinner, acetone, denatured alcohol, WD40, gin?
G
"Guy Thornberg" wrote in message
...
Thanks Lou,
Which are the 3 or 4 highest quality brands?
G

"LouF" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 09:45:43 -0600, "Guy Thornberg"
wrote:

Dear Rofftyans,

This question has been posted and answered before, but I can't remember
how
others have kept their super glue stored so that it does not evaporate.

I have several tubes of super glue. Two have been opened within the
past
6
months. When I went to use the tubes that had been opened, both had
dried
up
(evaporated). I was careful to close the used tubes as air tight as
possible
so this would not happen. Didn't work. I think this has happened to me
a
few
less than 100 times. Any help would be appreciated.
(Maybe it is a ploy by the manufacturer to keep sales up)
Thanks,
Slow Learner


Looks like my original post got lost.

Just so you know I'm not making this up, I work for the largest maker
of CA's (AKA cyanoacrylates, superglues) in the world.
The single best thing you can do is to keep CA'sin the freezer (in a
plastic baggie in case of leaks) until ready to use. Then let the
container come to room temperature berofre you start to use it. Thats
because the second best thing you can do is to keep humidity and
condensation as low as possible. CA's don't cure by drying. They
polymerize and are accelerated by temperature, humidity and pH, with
basic surfaces making them cure faster and acidic surfaces inhibiting
cure. Age makes a difference too, and so does brand. Buy the good
stuff and avoid the stuff in dollar stores etc.

On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 10:29:31 -0600, "Guy Thornberg"
wrote:

Next Saturday we are going to Beavers Bend. Won't get allot of fishing in
though, we are preparing a free BBQ lunch at Syd's Fly Shop in the Park. Can
you join us?

Wish I could, sounds like a good time.
--
Charlie...
http://www.chocphoto.com/ - photo galleries
http://www.chocphoto.com/roff

On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 11:07:38 -0600, "Guy Thornberg"
wrote:

Super glue spill!!! on the kichen p-lam. what solvent to use? lacquer
thinner, acetone, denatured alcohol, WD40, gin?
G
"Guy Thornberg" wrote in message
...
Thanks Lou,
Which are the 3 or 4 highest quality brands?
G

Highest quailty IMNSHO, Loctite or Henkel brands. I work for them so
I'm somewhat biased. In the consumer market(Lowes, Home Depot etc)
probably sold under the Quiktite name in nifty dispensers. You might
also try an industrial distributor for more choices. If you do that
ask for 495 for general purpose, or 454 for a gel. Also 420 is water
thin and will wick into the threads. If they have 380 or 480 try
them..they're black, rubber toughened formulations. They'll also have
the accelerator in either a brush top or spray bottle.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...y.asp?catID=15

For spills, the absolute best solvent is nitromethane if you can get
it or almost as good, acetone...nail polish remover for real nails.
The stuff for fake nails is ethyl acetate and won't work, neither will
alcohol or toluene.. You'll need a lot if it's a big spill since the
solvents just dissolve the cured ca and spread it around.. for small
drops you can just allow it to cure fully then scrape the glob off
with a razor and then just clean the area with acetone.

What a great thread. Thanks to all for input!!!
What is best adhesive to attach foam (hard and flexible) to fly hooks? CA
or other? Any advice to make your recommendation hold up longer?

John

--
Remove FLY to reply
"LouF" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 11:07:38 -0600, "Guy Thornberg"
wrote:

Super glue spill!!! on the kichen p-lam. what solvent to use? lacquer
thinner, acetone, denatured alcohol, WD40, gin?
G
"Guy Thornberg" wrote in message
...
Thanks Lou,
Which are the 3 or 4 highest quality brands?
G

Highest quailty IMNSHO, Loctite or Henkel brands. I work for them so
I'm somewhat biased. In the consumer market(Lowes, Home Depot etc)
probably sold under the Quiktite name in nifty dispensers. You might
also try an industrial distributor for more choices. If you do that
ask for 495 for general purpose, or 454 for a gel. Also 420 is water
thin and will wick into the threads. If they have 380 or 480 try
them..they're black, rubber toughened formulations. They'll also have
the accelerator in either a brush top or spray bottle.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...y.asp?catID=15

For spills, the absolute best solvent is nitromethane if you can get
it or almost as good, acetone...nail polish remover for real nails.
The stuff for fake nails is ethyl acetate and won't work, neither will
alcohol or toluene.. You'll need a lot if it's a big spill since the
solvents just dissolve the cured ca and spread it around.. for small
drops you can just allow it to cure fully then scrape the glob off
with a razor and then just clean the area with acetone.

On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 11:23:39 -0800, "John"
wrote:

What a great thread. Thanks to all for input!!!
What is best adhesive to attach foam (hard and flexible) to fly hooks? CA
or other? Any advice to make your recommendation hold up longer?

John

I use a light coat of CA on the hook before I tie in the foam, then
tie it in before it starts to set up. The problem is that it's
difficult, if not impossible to hold in the foam without getting
adhesive on your fingers.

Oops I was not clear. I meant solid foam. Like for poppers or bangers or
cylinders punched from sheets. All these have slots for inserting CA so
fingers are pretty clean except for the bee-type Dirt Dauber pattern.

John
--
Remove FLY to reply
"LouF" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 11:23:39 -0800, "John"
wrote:

What a great thread. Thanks to all for input!!!
What is best adhesive to attach foam (hard and flexible) to fly hooks?
CA
or other? Any advice to make your recommendation hold up longer?

John

I use a light coat of CA on the hook before I tie in the foam, then
tie it in before it starts to set up. The problem is that it's
difficult, if not impossible to hold in the foam without getting
adhesive on your fingers.

On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 12:51:39 -0800, "John"
wrote:

Oops I was not clear. I meant solid foam. Like for poppers or bangers or
cylinders punched from sheets. All these have slots for inserting CA so
fingers are pretty clean except for the bee-type Dirt Dauber pattern.

John

In that case ca's will work but they're very briitle. Epoxy is a
better choice if you can wait till they cure.

Lou,
Though I am wrapping rods right now I have another question regarding super
glue. The metallic tag wraps are always a pain to me. You get them wrapped,
trim the excess, think they look tight and the next second they unravel on
you prior to covering with Hi-Build. That is why I am using the tiniest spec
of super glue on my wraps as a temporary hold prior to applying the epoxy.
Question - will super glue be visible under the epoxy finish? I hope you or
someone can answer this question.
Thanks,
G

"LouF" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 11:07:38 -0600, "Guy Thornberg"
wrote:

Super glue spill!!! on the kichen p-lam. what solvent to use? lacquer
thinner, acetone, denatured alcohol, WD40, gin?
G
"Guy Thornberg" wrote in message
...
Thanks Lou,
Which are the 3 or 4 highest quality brands?
G

Highest quailty IMNSHO, Loctite or Henkel brands. I work for them so
I'm somewhat biased. In the consumer market(Lowes, Home Depot etc)
probably sold under the Quiktite name in nifty dispensers. You might
also try an industrial distributor for more choices. If you do that
ask for 495 for general purpose, or 454 for a gel. Also 420 is water
thin and will wick into the threads. If they have 380 or 480 try
them..they're black, rubber toughened formulations. They'll also have
the accelerator in either a brush top or spray bottle.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...y.asp?catID=15

For spills, the absolute best solvent is nitromethane if you can get
it or almost as good, acetone...nail polish remover for real nails.
The stuff for fake nails is ethyl acetate and won't work, neither will
alcohol or toluene.. You'll need a lot if it's a big spill since the
solvents just dissolve the cured ca and spread it around.. for small
drops you can just allow it to cure fully then scrape the glob off
with a razor and then just clean the area with acetone.

Epoxy works but frequently dries forming a ridge that is difficult to sand
flush with the adjacent surface. CA shrinks. Zap-a-gap can be applied but
multiple coats become labor intensive.

For cork and balsa poppers, my go to adhesive is 3M Super Adhesive. It has
many shortcomings as epoxy. Do you have any alternative suggestions?
John


--
Remove FLY to reply
"LouF" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 12:51:39 -0800, "John"
wrote:

Oops I was not clear. I meant solid foam. Like for poppers or bangers or
cylinders punched from sheets. All these have slots for inserting CA so
fingers are pretty clean except for the bee-type Dirt Dauber pattern.

John

In that case ca's will work but they're very briitle. Epoxy is a
better choice if you can wait till they cure.

On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 15:08:57 -0600, "Guy Thornberg"
wrote:

Lou,
Though I am wrapping rods right now I have another question regarding super
glue. The metallic tag wraps are always a pain to me. You get them wrapped,
trim the excess, think they look tight and the next second they unravel on
you prior to covering with Hi-Build. That is why I am using the tiniest spec
of super glue on my wraps as a temporary hold prior to applying the epoxy.
Question - will super glue be visible under the epoxy finish? I hope you or
someone can answer this question.
Thanks,
G

I know exactly what you mean, that drives me crazy!
It should not be visible itself but if you trap any air bubbles you'll
see them. I've never tried that but maybe you can try a test wrap on
a piece of scrap rod

On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 13:10:25 -0800, "John"
wrote:

Epoxy works but frequently dries forming a ridge that is difficult to sand
flush with the adjacent surface. CA shrinks. Zap-a-gap can be applied but
multiple coats become labor intensive.

For cork and balsa poppers, my go to adhesive is 3M Super Adhesive. It has
many shortcomings as epoxy. Do you have any alternative suggestions?
John


Thats a spray solvent based adhesive and if it's working why change?
My choice for strength is still epoxy. How about wiping the ridge
before it cures completeley with a rag wet with solvent? I assume
you're talking about a ridge along the bottom of the slice in the
balsa?

Solvent wiping seems like a great idea! I have not tried that recently.

For foam, cork and balsa poppers, I slice a slot using a scalpel. Then I
wind a hump shanked hook with cotton or nylon non-waxed thread and tie off
and cut off both ends. I apply a thin layer of adhesive into the slot and
on top of the wrapped hook. The thread seems to help any adhesive any
adhesive I use bind tighter and retain its attraction to the hook. I work
the coated hook into the slot and adjust the hook into its proper position.
I run a small bead over the hook inside the slot to finish it off. CA and
3M Super Adhesive dry so quickly that I can hang the freshly glued hooked
popper into a wooden railing for overnight curing. The 3M is squeeze tube
not a spray solvent based adhesive so I can also wipe it with solvent to
make a smooth bottom surface on the popper.

Epoxy on the other hand must be mixed in a small batch for the number of
bugs my revolving wheel will handle (15). I typically use a 30 or 60 minute
version. Now as I remove each batch from the revolving wheel, I can
solvent-wipe each one to smooth the bug's bottom. Sounds like a great idea.
Gotta make up several batches this way and see how they work out. Any
further comments?

Thanks
John

--
Remove FLY to reply
"LouF" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 13:10:25 -0800, "John"
wrote:

Epoxy works but frequently dries forming a ridge that is difficult to sand
flush with the adjacent surface. CA shrinks. Zap-a-gap can be applied
but
multiple coats become labor intensive.

For cork and balsa poppers, my go to adhesive is 3M Super Adhesive. It
has
many shortcomings as epoxy. Do you have any alternative suggestions?
John


Thats a spray solvent based adhesive and if it's working why change?
My choice for strength is still epoxy. How about wiping the ridge
before it cures completeley with a rag wet with solvent? I assume
you're talking about a ridge along the bottom of the slice in the
balsa?

LouF wrote in
:

On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 11:07:38 -0600, "Guy Thornberg"
wrote:

Super glue spill!!! on the kichen p-lam. what solvent to use? lacquer
thinner, acetone, denatured alcohol, WD40, gin?
G
"Guy Thornberg" wrote in message
...
Thanks Lou,
Which are the 3 or 4 highest quality brands?
G

Highest quailty IMNSHO, Loctite or Henkel brands. I work for them so
I'm somewhat biased. In the consumer market(Lowes, Home Depot etc)
probably sold under the Quiktite name in nifty dispensers. You might
also try an industrial distributor for more choices. If you do that
ask for 495 for general purpose, or 454 for a gel. Also 420 is water
thin and will wick into the threads. If they have 380 or 480 try
them..they're black, rubber toughened formulations. They'll also have
the accelerator in either a brush top or spray bottle.


Can you tell us what the accelerant for CA's is?

Scott

Can you tell us what the accelerant for CA's is?

Scott

They're generally low molecular weight aromatic amines. I have never
tried it but ammonia fumes would probably work too.

http://montana-riverboats.com/pages/...uper_Glue.html

.....used to sell super glue to fly fishing stores, as Sandy's Superfly.
I've seen it get hard in the bottle, but never evaporate.
Keeping it cold does extend the shelf life. The most important thing
is to use Teflon tubing as a super accurate, pin-point dispensing tool.

I use thin CA glue (ZapCA, for instance) for thread wraps, and medium
viscosity glue (ZapAGap, for instance) for most everything else.
The ability to place pin-point drops at just the right spot makes all
the difference.

Where to get teflon tubing Thank You?
Guy

wrote in message
ups.com...

http://montana-riverboats.com/pages/...uper_Glue.html

....used to sell super glue to fly fishing stores, as Sandy's Superfly.
I've seen it get hard in the bottle, but never evaporate.
Keeping it cold does extend the shelf life. The most important thing
is to use Teflon tubing as a super accurate, pin-point dispensing tool.

I use thin CA glue (ZapCA, for instance) for thread wraps, and medium
viscosity glue (ZapAGap, for instance) for most everything else.
The ability to place pin-point drops at just the right spot makes all
the difference.

Guy Thornberg wrote:
Where to get teflon tubing Thank You?
Guy

Radio Shack or any other electronics supply store.
--
Frank Reid
Euthanize to reply

Guy Thornberg wrote:
Where to get teflon tubing Thank You?
Guy

The following page:

http://montana-riverboats.com/pages/...uper_Glue.html

....has a link to an online source: Action Electronics.
I will cost about ten bucks to get a lifetime supply of tubing:
24 guage thinwall Teflon tubing for ZapCA
and 18 guage thinwall for ZapAGap

Thanks Gents.
G

Salmo Bytes anything like Salmon Bites?

"Salmo Bytes" wrote in message
...
Guy Thornberg wrote:
Where to get teflon tubing Thank You?
Guy

The following page:


http://montana-riverboats.com/pages/...uper_Glue.html

...has a link to an online source: Action Electronics.
I will cost about ten bucks to get a lifetime supply of tubing:
24 guage thinwall Teflon tubing for ZapCA
and 18 guage thinwall for ZapAGap