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Kamchatka
If Petropavlovsk is an example of the old Soviet Union, it is easy to
see why we won the Cold War. What a dreary place. Our Tupolev 154 landed in Petro after a four hour flight from Anchorage. It took us 30 minutes to get off the plane. Instead of all passengers leaving at once, a small bus load at a time were taken less than 50 yards to immigration. The Russians are still paranoid, thinking that ALL Americans are CIA agents. Hell, there is nothing in Petro that any American would want. On second thought, Wayno would want the beautiful Russian women. Two hours in passport control was even worse than waiting on the plane. Two hours! Once you got through all the red tape (no pun intended), you were greeted by your Russian host and required to wait on another bus until all had passed through passport control and customs. It was a bumpy and loud 45 minute drive through the outskirts of Petro to the helicopter "pad". If an American entrepreneur wants to invest in a product/service in Kamchatka, I would recommend "Weed-be-Gone", "Round-Up", or any weed whacker. The trouble would be to convince the Russians to use it. Every house and apartment block had a weed field surrounding it. The helo "pad" was a potato field. With the clamshell doors open, the MI8 (HIP) helo looked enormous. Hell, it *was* enormous. It swallowed 20 people and all their gear, and lifted off like a giant bird. A cramped and noisy flight (everyone wore earplugs) took us to the Zendzur Lodge where we deposited eight happy-to-get-off-the-helicopter folks. Lift off and a less crowded flight of 25 minutes and we dropped off the second group of six weary souls. They would float the Zhupanova River behind us by one day. The flight to our starting camp took about 10 minutes and was somewhat enjoyable because we at least could open the porthole windows, get fresh air, and enjoy the scenery. All the camps looked alike. All of them had an octagonal cook/dining hut with a canvas roof. The sports stayed in a canvas Quanset hut or a small two man cabin. The bunks were comfortable. Most of us brought self inflating mattresses to sleep on, but I got tired of deflating and rolling it up each day as we moved to a new camp. Flush toilets and hot showers were also provided. The toilets may have been the flushing type, but that did not help the latrine smell that permeated each one. Or the flies. If the Olympics had a category for biggest and baddest house flies, the Russians would win hands down. I'm a fussy eater. I don't expect New York cut steaks or lobster or prime rib at any of the meals when in a camping situation, but cleanliness would have helped the appetite. The dishes were washed in cool water, and the flies were over everything on the table. I ate very little that first meal, but it was enough to give me the trots for three days. Fortunately I brought a big jar of peanut butter, a small roll of hard salami, and Power Bars. I lived on porridge, fresh fruit and my cache of goodies. I also lost ten pounds, but some would still consider me a fat ass. d;o) The fishing was fabulous. My first fish was the smallest of the trip - a 14 inch Dolly Varden. It was followed by hundreds of Dollies over the next five days, some as big as 26 inches. On the first day of the float, I managed eight rainbows in the 22 - 24 inch range and so many Dollies I gave up counting. (One must never count fish to begin with!) All fish were caught on streamers. This would have been a terrific place for Peter. He would have mopped up with his gazillion foot two-handed seven weight. d;o) We fished until 6 pm every day while floating the river, staying at a new camp every night. Each camp had its own resident manager and dog. At the first camp, the dog was named Pirate. A good sign, eh? The dogs were there to warn for bears, and they worked well. A few barks and the bears would retreat. After we settled in each day, dinner was at 8 and we fished until it was served. Our cook, Serge, broke camp after breakfast each morning, packed up everything in a separate raft, and he and his dog Fairy floated the river and set up for lunch, then packed up and continued to the next camp site. Serge, the camp manager, and the two guides (one American, one Russian who spoke perfect English) unloaded our bags each day and carried them to our cabins. The fish got bigger as we floated down the river. By day two we were consistently landing rainbows from 22 - 28 inches, and lots of big Dollies. I was using a Sage XP 10 foot 7 weight with 1X leader/tippet and very big bait fish imitators that the Fly Shop in Redding provided. A sinking line on my Lamson 3.5 V helped get the fly down in the fast current. On day three we started using size 14 parachute Adams on rising fish. I was taking some nice size fish on the dry when I noted some trout blinking in a short run. Into the vest for a size 12 PT, a little split shot, and I was catching all the fish I could handle while nymphing. The Russian guide came over and asked what I was doing. Duh! He had never before seen anyone nymph on the Zhupanova. I landed at least 20 fish in that short fifty foot run, most Dollies, but some very nice bows too. Let's see…. streamers, dries, and nymphs. The only thing remaining was a mouse pattern…… a *big* mouse pattern. The only time we fished from the raft was when we went by "mousing water". Mousing water is best described as slow moving, sometimes with an eddy and/or foam. Cast the mouse into the foam and when it hits the water, start twitching/stripping it. When the big rainbows spotted it, you could see their attack. They started off swiftly, pushing the water in front of them and creating a water bulge not unlike a nukey sub. I thought, "Wait for the strike - don't set too early," and then the mouse exploded in a giant flash of water and fish. I didn't have to set no stinkin' hook! What a hoot! The Dollies tried to take the mouse, but their attempts usually ended in what the guides called a "toilet flush" - a big boiling of the water, but no hook-up. Mousing was probably my highlight of the trip. I learned a new trick for streamer fishing in fast water. Make your cast across and let the fly swing downstream. When it is almost directly below you, place your rod at water level pointing at the fly, pull the rod back and forth, and wait for the strike. It worked when swinging and stripping did not. Quite the trick. I used it in Alaska on silvers the following week and the guides were amazed when I hooked up and others didn't. The last two days of the float required about four hours of rowing to get to the camps. This left less time to fish, and more time for sight seeing. As the river broadened, we saw more wild life, especially bears. At one point, John, the American guide, pointed out the nest of a Steller Sea Eagle. Just as we turned our heads to look, one of the eagles landed next to the nest. It was enormous. By the time we took out our cameras, the giant bird had flown away. The last two camps on the river were actually lodges. The final stop was Cedar Lodge which was very well appointed with two lovely and attractive "chamber maids". So help me, that's what they were called. (An aside, especially for AWH: The American guide said that "Do you come here often?" is not the standard pick-up line in the night spots of Petropavlovsk. The best approach is, "Hi. I'm a rich American.") Everything was much cleaner and I enjoyed the meals. BTW, Russian beer in big plastic bottles was served at each meal during the float, including breakfast. The beer wasn't very cold, but it was passable on taste. It reminded me of a Budweiser. Good but not great. (BMIAF) We were a bit concerned on the morning of our departure from Cedar Lodge. If the helicopter couldn't make our pick-up, we would miss the Magadan Air flight to Anchorage. If you missed that flight, you had two options: Stay in Petropavlovsk for a week until the next flight, or fly to Seoul Korea and then to Anchorage at a cost of about $3,000. Magadan Air would not refund your money either. We awoke that Friday morning to a very low overcast and it stayed overcast all morning. We fished at the lodge using jet boats for transportation up river, catching more big rainbows and dollies. The Silvers were just coming into the river and a few small ones were caught. About 1 pm, the overcast lifted and the MI8 arrived at 3 pm. We made it through customs a little quicker than when we arrived and boarded the Magadan Air TU154 and took off about 9 pm, landing in Anchorage at 4:30 am the same day, the longest Friday of my life. The flight was cramped but uneventful. While using the "facilities" I noticed a sign over the potty: "Do not put toilet paper or dust in the lavatory." Something was lost, I think, in the translation. Anyway, I'm glad I didn't have to take a dump. Would I do it again? Nope! Too iffy on the transportation both going and coming. If that helicopter can't fly, you're stuck in Petropavlovsk. The food was terrible and too much time was spent rafting from camp to camp. The fishing was wonderful, but it wasn't better than my experiences in Alaska. Going to Kamchatka was an experience I will never forget, and at my next reunion of Navy friends, I will have many tales to tell of what I saw. It is good to be home with my beautiful wife and playful dog, or is that playful wife and beautiful dog? I'm getting old……. The Alaskan portion of the trip will follow, along with pictures of both trips Dave |
"Dave LaCourse" wrote Hell, there is nothing in Petro that any American would want. On second thought, Wayno would want the beautiful Russian women. amerikanski piratik das be tellink dah trootski! for AWH: The American guide said that "Do you come here often?" is not the standard pick-up line in the night spots of Petropavlovsk. The best approach is, "Hi. I'm a rich American.") i hate like hell to lie to a woman, but if you can spring for the airfare, i'll give it my best shot... one damn fine tr, louie! yfitons wayno |
excellent and worth the wait. thanks... but, where are the photos
comrade? g jeff Dave LaCourse wrote: |
millions of Russians died here digging for gold
they used cyanide and other nasty stuff Enjoy the fishing and have a few for lunch |
The fishing was fabulous. My first fish was the smallest of the trip
Sounds great, glad you got there and back safe. You can still adopt me any time... Stand in line. -- Frank Reid Euthanize to respond |
Dave LaCourse wrote:
snip ... BTW, Russian beer in big plastic bottles was served at each meal during the float, including breakfast. The beer wasn't very cold, but it was passable on taste. It reminded me of a Budweiser. Good but not great. (BMIAF) ... Beer for breakfast ? And it tastes like Budweiser ?!? Where do I sign up ? ;-) -- Ken Fortenberry |
On Tue, 06 Sep 2005 12:26:10 -0400, riverman wrote:
millions of Russians died here digging for gold they used cyanide and other nasty stuff Enjoy the fishing and have a few for lunch Hmmm.....Interesting construction, that.... |
On Tue, 06 Sep 2005 15:12:35 -0400, daytripper
wrote: On Tue, 06 Sep 2005 12:26:10 -0400, riverman wrote: millions of Russians died here digging for gold they used cyanide and other nasty stuff Enjoy the fishing and have a few for lunch Hmmm.....Interesting construction, that.... Sorry to inform you, Dave, but the gold digging was on the lower part of Kamchatka. I was above Petro in very virgin country - sort of like Alaska was 50 years ago. So sorry...... d:o) |
Dave LaCourse wrote:
Sorry to inform you, Dave, but the gold digging was on the lower part of Kamchatka. I was above Petro in very virgin country - sort of like Alaska was 50 years ago. So sorry...... d:o) Leaving aside the question of virgins for the moment g, how long did it take after one of those helicopter flights for enough blood to flow back into your knuckles that you could hold a fly rod? :-) Nice report. Looking forward to the pix. (and hoping you took some of the chamber maids......) JR |
On Tue, 06 Sep 2005 12:31:27 -0700, JR wrote:
Dave LaCourse wrote: Sorry to inform you, Dave, but the gold digging was on the lower part of Kamchatka. I was above Petro in very virgin country - sort of like Alaska was 50 years ago. So sorry...... d:o) Leaving aside the question of virgins for the moment g, how long did it take after one of those helicopter flights for enough blood to flow back into your knuckles that you could hold a fly rod? :-) Nice report. Looking forward to the pix. (and hoping you took some of the chamber maids......) JR The lodge shows one on their website: http://tinyurl.com/al4up hth g.c. |
George Cleveland typed:
On Tue, 06 Sep 2005 12:31:27 -0700, JR wrote: Dave LaCourse wrote: Sorry to inform you, Dave, but the gold digging was on the lower part of Kamchatka. I was above Petro in very virgin country - sort of like Alaska was 50 years ago. So sorry...... d:o) Leaving aside the question of virgins for the moment g, how long did it take after one of those helicopter flights for enough blood to flow back into your knuckles that you could hold a fly rod? :-) Nice report. Looking forward to the pix. (and hoping you took some of the chamber maids......) The lodge shows one on their website: http://tinyurl.com/al4up Dave looks pretty young. Was this taken during his Navy days? ;-) -- TL, Tim ------------------------ http://css.sbcma.com/timj/ |
On Tue, 06 Sep 2005 12:31:27 -0700, JR wrote:
Nice report. Looking forward to the pix. (and hoping you took some of the chamber maids......) I did take some of the chamber maids, but only wayno is cleared for that high a classification. Sorry, John. d;o) |
On Tue, 06 Sep 2005 15:23:14 -0500, George Cleveland
wrote: http://tinyurl.com/al4up That was their grandmother. |
Dave,
Looks like things haven't changed much since I visited in 2000. Pleased to hear the fishing is holding up. Looking forward to seeing some pics. some from 2000 are here; http://home.teleport.com/~salmo/K2000 jeff |
George Cleveland wrote:
On Tue, 06 Sep 2005 12:31:27 -0700, JR wrote: Dave LaCourse wrote: Sorry to inform you, Dave, but the gold digging was on the lower part of Kamchatka. I was above Petro in very virgin country - sort of like Alaska was 50 years ago. So sorry...... d:o) Leaving aside the question of virgins for the moment g, how long did it take after one of those helicopter flights for enough blood to flow back into your knuckles that you could hold a fly rod? :-) Nice report. Looking forward to the pix. (and hoping you took some of the chamber maids......) JR The lodge shows one on their website: http://tinyurl.com/al4up hth g.c. damn...she looks just like the bartender at bruce crossing...but dressed better. g jeff |
On 6 Sep 2005 15:12:16 -0700, "jlp" wrote:
some from 2000 are here; http://home.teleport.com/~salmo/K2000 Anadyr? Whoa. They had you way in the sticks for a refuel. I didn't much care for Magadan Air. I thought the plane was going to shake apart when we took off from Anchorage, and when we landed in Petro, I'm willing to bet that pieces *did* fall off. I got some pix of MiG31 (NATO designation Foxhound) that were parked near their reventments at Petro's airport. I suppose I could have been picked up for spying. d;o) |
On Tue, 06 Sep 2005 19:18:42 -0400, Dave LaCourse
wrote: On 6 Sep 2005 15:12:16 -0700, "jlp" wrote: some from 2000 are here; http://home.teleport.com/~salmo/K2000 Anadyr? Whoa. They had you way in the sticks for a refuel. I didn't much care for Magadan Air. I thought the plane was going to shake apart when we took off from Anchorage, and when we landed in Petro, I'm willing to bet that pieces *did* fall off. I got some pix of MiG31 (NATO designation Foxhound) that were parked near their reventments at Petro's airport. I suppose I could have been picked up for spying. d;o) Jeez, Dave, that's pushing the envelope considering your backgorund. :) Send me some pics. Peter turn mailhot into hotmail to reply Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharl...ers/index.html |
HEY!! WTF is this person using my screen name??
We got an imposter posting here. --riverman |
Dave LaCourse wrote:
On 6 Sep 2005 15:12:16 -0700, "jlp" wrote: some from 2000 are here; http://home.teleport.com/~salmo/K2000 Anadyr? Whoa. They had you way in the sticks for a refuel. I didn't much care for Magadan Air. I thought the plane was going to shake apart when we took off from Anchorage, and when we landed in Petro, I'm willing to bet that pieces *did* fall off. I got some pix of MiG31 (NATO designation Foxhound) that were parked near their reventments at Petro's airport. I suppose I could have been picked up for spying. d;o) there was one good thing about the aging aircraft ..mid-week our group was informed thatthe plane was out of service in Anchorage with no idea how long it would take to fix. We were given the choice of staying at the lodge and fishing or getting on the helio and spending an unknown number of days in petro.....got an extra 4 days for free although the poor guys waiting to replace us in Motel 6 in anchorage were a little****ed that we were fishing, eating and drinking on their dime. They only got 3+ days on the river. jeff |
"Jeff Miller" wrote in message news:PnpTe.22475$hp.0@lakeread08... George Cleveland wrote: On Tue, 06 Sep 2005 12:31:27 -0700, JR wrote: Dave LaCourse wrote: Sorry to inform you, Dave, but the gold digging was on the lower part of Kamchatka. I was above Petro in very virgin country - sort of like Alaska was 50 years ago. So sorry...... d:o) Leaving aside the question of virgins for the moment g, how long did it take after one of those helicopter flights for enough blood to flow back into your knuckles that you could hold a fly rod? :-) Nice report. Looking forward to the pix. (and hoping you took some of the chamber maids......) JR The lodge shows one on their website: http://tinyurl.com/al4up hth g.c. damn...she looks just like the bartender at bruce crossing...but dressed better. g jeff Yeah, but you can't see her tats. Wolfgang who prays god he spelled that right. :( |
"riverman" wrote in message ups.com... HEY!! WTF is this person using my screen name?? We got an imposter posting here. --riverman Uh oh. No good can come of this. :( Wolfgang um......well, it COULD be a lot of fun. |
On 6 Sep 2005 16:40:01 -0700, "riverman" wrote:
HEY!! WTF is this person using my screen name?? We got an imposter posting here. Well, there be only one redneck around that would wish me ill, so take a guess. d;o) |
"Dave LaCourse" wrote in message ... If Petropavlovsk is an example of the old Soviet Union, it is easy to see why we won the Cold War. What a dreary place. Our Tupolev 154 landed in Petro after a four hour flight from Anchorage. It took us 30 minutes to get off the plane. Instead of all passengers leaving at once, a small bus load at a time were taken less than 50 yards to immigration. The Russians are still paranoid, thinking that ALL Americans are CIA agents. Hell, there is nothing in Petro that any American would want. On second thought, Wayno would want the beautiful Russian women. Two hours in passport control was even worse than waiting on the plane. Two hours! Once you got through all the red tape (no pun intended), you were greeted by your Russian host and required to wait on another bus until all had passed through passport control and customs. It was a bumpy and loud 45 minute drive through the outskirts of Petro to the helicopter "pad". If an American entrepreneur wants to invest in a product/service in Kamchatka, I would recommend "Weed-be-Gone", "Round-Up", or any weed whacker. The trouble would be to convince the Russians to use it. Every house and apartment block had a weed field surrounding it. The helo "pad" was a potato field. With the clamshell doors open, the MI8 (HIP) helo looked enormous. Hell, it *was* enormous. It swallowed 20 people and all their gear, and lifted off like a giant bird. A cramped and noisy flight (everyone wore earplugs) took us to the Zendzur Lodge where we deposited eight happy-to-get-off-the-helicopter folks. Lift off and a less crowded flight of 25 minutes and we dropped off the second group of six weary souls. They would float the Zhupanova River behind us by one day. The flight to our starting camp took about 10 minutes and was somewhat enjoyable because we at least could open the porthole windows, get fresh air, and enjoy the scenery. All the camps looked alike. All of them had an octagonal cook/dining hut with a canvas roof. The sports stayed in a canvas Quanset hut or a small two man cabin. The bunks were comfortable. Most of us brought self inflating mattresses to sleep on, but I got tired of deflating and rolling it up each day as we moved to a new camp. Flush toilets and hot showers were also provided. The toilets may have been the flushing type, but that did not help the latrine smell that permeated each one. Or the flies. If the Olympics had a category for biggest and baddest house flies, the Russians would win hands down. I'm a fussy eater. I don't expect New York cut steaks or lobster or prime rib at any of the meals when in a camping situation, but cleanliness would have helped the appetite. The dishes were washed in cool water, and the flies were over everything on the table. I ate very little that first meal, but it was enough to give me the trots for three days. Fortunately I brought a big jar of peanut butter, a small roll of hard salami, and Power Bars. I lived on porridge, fresh fruit and my cache of goodies. I also lost ten pounds, but some would still consider me a fat ass. d;o) The fishing was fabulous. My first fish was the smallest of the trip - a 14 inch Dolly Varden. It was followed by hundreds of Dollies over the next five days, some as big as 26 inches. On the first day of the float, I managed eight rainbows in the 22 - 24 inch range and so many Dollies I gave up counting. (One must never count fish to begin with!) All fish were caught on streamers. This would have been a terrific place for Peter. He would have mopped up with his gazillion foot two-handed seven weight. d;o) We fished until 6 pm every day while floating the river, staying at a new camp every night. Each camp had its own resident manager and dog. At the first camp, the dog was named Pirate. A good sign, eh? The dogs were there to warn for bears, and they worked well. A few barks and the bears would retreat. After we settled in each day, dinner was at 8 and we fished until it was served. Our cook, Serge, broke camp after breakfast each morning, packed up everything in a separate raft, and he and his dog Fairy floated the river and set up for lunch, then packed up and continued to the next camp site. Serge, the camp manager, and the two guides (one American, one Russian who spoke perfect English) unloaded our bags each day and carried them to our cabins. The fish got bigger as we floated down the river. By day two we were consistently landing rainbows from 22 - 28 inches, and lots of big Dollies. I was using a Sage XP 10 foot 7 weight with 1X leader/tippet and very big bait fish imitators that the Fly Shop in Redding provided. A sinking line on my Lamson 3.5 V helped get the fly down in the fast current. On day three we started using size 14 parachute Adams on rising fish. I was taking some nice size fish on the dry when I noted some trout blinking in a short run. Into the vest for a size 12 PT, a little split shot, and I was catching all the fish I could handle while nymphing. The Russian guide came over and asked what I was doing. Duh! He had never before seen anyone nymph on the Zhupanova. I landed at least 20 fish in that short fifty foot run, most Dollies, but some very nice bows too. Let's see.. streamers, dries, and nymphs. The only thing remaining was a mouse pattern.. a *big* mouse pattern. The only time we fished from the raft was when we went by "mousing water". Mousing water is best described as slow moving, sometimes with an eddy and/or foam. Cast the mouse into the foam and when it hits the water, start twitching/stripping it. When the big rainbows spotted it, you could see their attack. They started off swiftly, pushing the water in front of them and creating a water bulge not unlike a nukey sub. I thought, "Wait for the strike - don't set too early," and then the mouse exploded in a giant flash of water and fish. I didn't have to set no stinkin' hook! What a hoot! The Dollies tried to take the mouse, but their attempts usually ended in what the guides called a "toilet flush" - a big boiling of the water, but no hook-up. Mousing was probably my highlight of the trip. I learned a new trick for streamer fishing in fast water. Make your cast across and let the fly swing downstream. When it is almost directly below you, place your rod at water level pointing at the fly, pull the rod back and forth, and wait for the strike. It worked when swinging and stripping did not. Quite the trick. I used it in Alaska on silvers the following week and the guides were amazed when I hooked up and others didn't. The last two days of the float required about four hours of rowing to get to the camps. This left less time to fish, and more time for sight seeing. As the river broadened, we saw more wild life, especially bears. At one point, John, the American guide, pointed out the nest of a Steller Sea Eagle. Just as we turned our heads to look, one of the eagles landed next to the nest. It was enormous. By the time we took out our cameras, the giant bird had flown away. The last two camps on the river were actually lodges. The final stop was Cedar Lodge which was very well appointed with two lovely and attractive "chamber maids". So help me, that's what they were called. (An aside, especially for AWH: The American guide said that "Do you come here often?" is not the standard pick-up line in the night spots of Petropavlovsk. The best approach is, "Hi. I'm a rich American.") Everything was much cleaner and I enjoyed the meals. BTW, Russian beer in big plastic bottles was served at each meal during the float, including breakfast. The beer wasn't very cold, but it was passable on taste. It reminded me of a Budweiser. Good but not great. (BMIAF) We were a bit concerned on the morning of our departure from Cedar Lodge. If the helicopter couldn't make our pick-up, we would miss the Magadan Air flight to Anchorage. If you missed that flight, you had two options: Stay in Petropavlovsk for a week until the next flight, or fly to Seoul Korea and then to Anchorage at a cost of about $3,000. Magadan Air would not refund your money either. We awoke that Friday morning to a very low overcast and it stayed overcast all morning. We fished at the lodge using jet boats for transportation up river, catching more big rainbows and dollies. The Silvers were just coming into the river and a few small ones were caught. About 1 pm, the overcast lifted and the MI8 arrived at 3 pm. We made it through customs a little quicker than when we arrived and boarded the Magadan Air TU154 and took off about 9 pm, landing in Anchorage at 4:30 am the same day, the longest Friday of my life. The flight was cramped but uneventful. While using the "facilities" I noticed a sign over the potty: "Do not put toilet paper or dust in the lavatory." Something was lost, I think, in the translation. Anyway, I'm glad I didn't have to take a dump. Would I do it again? Nope! Too iffy on the transportation both going and coming. If that helicopter can't fly, you're stuck in Petropavlovsk. The food was terrible and too much time was spent rafting from camp to camp. The fishing was wonderful, but it wasn't better than my experiences in Alaska. Going to Kamchatka was an experience I will never forget, and at my next reunion of Navy friends, I will have many tales to tell of what I saw. It is good to be home with my beautiful wife and playful dog, or is that playful wife and beautiful dog? I'm getting old... The Alaskan portion of the trip will follow, along with pictures of both trips Dave Great TR, Dave. Both different from and similar to many PETR trip reports I've read :-) Bob -- Bob Patton (remove hat to respond) |
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