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First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
Hello,
I recently purchased my first fly rod, a 5wt 4 piece. Now I need to find a reasonably priced reel to go with it. Most of my fishing will be for trout on small to medium sized streams in the Pacific Northwest. There will also be the occasional lake and pond fishing for trout and bass. My questions a 1.) What is a good reel for a college student on very limited budget? I'd like to keep the price of the reel under $50. I see alot of pflueger reels priced inexpensively($30). I've also seen A redington in my price range. I plan on upgrading at some point, so I can have a back up rod or one for friends to use. My main concern is to be able to some serious fishing from now until winter. 2) Do I need a large arbor reel? Would you mind explaining what that is? 3) I've read that a good quality line is more important than the reel, is this true? What would be a good line? I can probably drop another 40-50 bucks on this. 4) Which type of line would you reccomend? Weight Forward or a double taper. Thanks for reading all of this and thanks in Advance for any responses, Dwayne |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
Erratic Grouse wrote:
Hello, I recently purchased my first fly rod, a 5wt 4 piece. Now I need to find a reasonably priced reel to go with it. Most of my fishing will be for trout on small to medium sized streams in the Pacific Northwest. There will also be the occasional lake and pond fishing for trout and bass. My questions a 1.) What is a good reel for a college student on very limited budget? I'd like to keep the price of the reel under $50. I see alot of pflueger reels priced inexpensively($30). I've also seen A redington in my price range. I plan on upgrading at some point, so I can have a back up rod or one for friends to use. My main concern is to be able to some serious fishing from now until winter. Take a look at the Okuma Sierra reels. I own three of them and have been very pleased with them. 2) Do I need a large arbor reel? Would you mind explaining what that is? I've never used one. 3) I've read that a good quality line is more important than the reel, is this true? IMO, yes. Almost everything is more important than the reel. About all the reel does is hold your line. What would be a good line? I can probably drop another 40-50 bucks on this. 4) Which type of line would you reccomend? Weight Forward or a double taper. Are you trying to cause trouble? ;-) I prefer to DT. When one end wears out you can turn it around and use the other end. Two lines for the price of one. I'm cheap. (You can always cut it in half, too.) Thanks for reading all of this and thanks in Advance for any responses, No problem. HTH. Russell |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
"Erratic Grouse" wrote in message ups.com... Hello, I recently purchased my first fly rod, a 5wt 4 piece. Now I need to find a reasonably priced reel to go with it. Most of my fishing will be for trout on small to medium sized streams in the Pacific Northwest. There will also be the occasional lake and pond fishing for trout and bass. My questions a 1.) What is a good reel for a college student on very limited budget? I'd like to keep the price of the reel under $50. I see alot of pflueger reels priced inexpensively($30). I've also seen A redington in my price range. I plan on upgrading at some point, so I can have a back up rod or one for friends to use. My main concern is to be able to some serious fishing from now until winter. 2) Do I need a large arbor reel? Would you mind explaining what that is? 3) I've read that a good quality line is more important than the reel, is this true? What would be a good line? I can probably drop another 40-50 bucks on this. 4) Which type of line would you reccomend? Weight Forward or a double taper. Well, all of the experts (and many of them really are) seem to be busy elsewhere at the moment, so I'll give you a couple of idaes as a warmup. A disc drag mechanism is a good thing to have on a fly rell.....not absolutely necessary for small to medium trout, but good nevertheless. And you never know when you're going to run into something bigger, right? Okuma used to put out a reel they called "Sierra" for about what you're looking to pay. Don't know if they still make it, but it or something comparable would do you well. A large arbor reel is one on which the minimum diameter of the spool that the line gets wound on is much greater than that of the standard reels, say, roughly two to four inches as compared to less than an inch. Pi x diameter says the large arbor will spool up line a LOT faster. Again, not necessary. But, it doesn't hurt, either. Weight forward vs. double tapered is an eternal and eternally silly debate. It really doesn't matter. Can't help you with brand or model selection. Thanks for reading all of this and thanks in Advance for any responses, You're welcome. You'll get a lot of other opinions. Take none of them too seriously. Fly fishing, like anything else is something that you will like.....or you won't. Absent some truly bad luck or decision making (I mean phenomenally bad!) gear selection as a newby will have little to do with it. Learn to do whatever the equipment you choose will allow you to do and you can't go wrong. Oh, and don't be surprised if this discussion goes off on a bit of a tangent........it's been known to happen. :) Good luck. Wolfgang |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
Wolfgang wrote:
know when you're going to run into something bigger, right? Okuma used to put out a reel they called "Sierra" for about what you're looking to pay. Don't know if they still make it, but it or something comparable would do you well. http://www.okumafishing.com/products...rra/sierra.htm |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
"Erratic Grouse" wrote in message ups.com... Hello, I recently purchased my first fly rod, a 5wt 4 piece. Now I need to find a reasonably priced reel to go with it. Most of my fishing will be for trout on small to medium sized streams in the Pacific Northwest. There will also be the occasional lake and pond fishing for trout and bass. My questions a 1.) What is a good reel for a college student on very limited budget? I'd like to keep the price of the reel under $50. I see alot of pflueger reels priced inexpensively($30). I've also seen A redington in my price range. I plan on upgrading at some point, so I can have a back up rod or one for friends to use. My main concern is to be able to some serious fishing from now until winter. You are bound to have some decent flyshops in your area. I'd drop-in on one of them and look at some of the reels. Or simply Google reels and view hundreds, if not thousands. I have nothing against Pflueger (sp?), but the old ones I have are quite heavy and much to heavy for the rods I use to fish for trout, on small NC streams. 2) Do I need a large arbor reel? Would you mind explaining what that is? Not for any trout I could catch on my small to medium streams, but someone is likely to say otherwise. Large arbors are primarily used for big fish fishin', as they will take in more line in one turn of the spool than your standard reels, I believe. 3) I've read that a good quality line is more important than the reel, is this true? Yes, IMMHO! You need to know how you plan to fish: dry fly, nymph, streamers... I primaily use double tapered floating lines of good to excellent quality, for my dry fly fishin. Some folks like to use a weight-forward line. If you are nymphing in deep waters or lake fishin', you may want a sinking line. Sinkin; lines come in varying degrees of sink, so you really need to know just how you plan to fish. You could do as I do and by an extra spool for the reel you purchase and line one with floating line and the other with sinking line. What would be a good line? I can probably drop another 40-50 bucks on this. Cortland is a reputable dealer, as is Orvis. I'm sure others will have many good suggestions, as well. 4) Which type of line would you reccomend? Weight Forward or a double taper. Personally, I'd start with DT, as I think it is more forgiving for the beginner. It worked for me! Buy some books on casting, flyfishing, and any other aspects that you might think will be helpful. See if your local flyshop rents theie videos. Search the WEB for knot tying sites, fly patterns, casting instructions...there is a world of good on the internet! This is a favorite site of many: http://www.sexyloops.com/ If you Google "Flyfishing" you will get approx. 31,000,000 hits, so start your search early and stay up late! Op Thanks for reading all of this and thanks in Advance for any responses, Dwayne |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
On 7 Mar 2006 14:47:54 -0800, "Erratic Grouse"
wrote: Hello, I recently purchased my first fly rod, a 5wt 4 piece. Now I need to find a reasonably priced reel to go with it. Most of my fishing will be for trout on small to medium sized streams in the Pacific Northwest. There will also be the occasional lake and pond fishing for trout and bass. My questions a 1.) What is a good reel for a college student on very limited budget? I'd like to keep the price of the reel under $50. I see alot of pflueger reels priced inexpensively($30). I've also seen A redington in my price range. I plan on upgrading at some point, so I can have a back up rod or one for friends to use. My main concern is to be able to some serious fishing from now until winter. Orvis makes a fairly good beginner's reel, The Clearwater, for under $40. Also, the Battenkill for about 80. The Redington should also be good. 2) Do I need a large arbor reel? Would you mind explaining what that is? A large arbor reel holds more backing than a normal reel. On a five weight rod, I don't think you need a large arbor reel. (The arbor is the part of the reel (spool) that holds the line and backing. Also, a large arbor reel requires fewer turns of the crank (handle) to bring in the line.) 3) I've read that a good quality line is more important than the reel, is this true? What would be a good line? I can probably drop another 40-50 bucks on this. 4) Which type of line would you reccomend? Weight Forward or a double taper. Sci Anglers, Rio, Cortland all make good lines for about $50. If you use a double taper line, you can reverse it and use it twice as long as you would a WF. If you keep it clean (soap and water) and don't abrade it on rocks, logs, etc, a DT should last you four or more years. There are those on this forum that will tell you it will last longer, but they're cheap *******s to begin with. Thanks for reading all of this and thanks in Advance for any responses, Your welcome. Good luck. Post what you decide. BTW, what rod did you buy? Name/model? Dave |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
"Erratic Grouse" wrote in message ups.com... 2) Do I need a large arbor reel? Would you mind explaining what that is? The arbor is the center hub. If it's small and you wind your fly line onto it directly, your line will be wrapped in tight coils - not good. Traditionally you use about 100 yards of backing, which builds up the center hub, so the actual fly line is not wound around the hub directly. As far as I can tell, the only use of a large arbor reel is so that you don't have to use much backing to still get a thick hub section. Unless the entire reel is of larger diameter, in which case you can actually reel in the line faster. 4) Which type of line would you reccomend? Weight Forward or a double taper. Contrary to popular belief, double taper line does not offer a "more delicate" presentation. If you're going to be making longer, regular casts, get weight forward. If you're going to be making normal length casts of up to about 40 feet and will be making longer roll casts and line mends, get double taper. It really doesn't matter much. |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
"Dave LaCourse" wrote in message ... A large arbor reel holds more backing than a normal reel. I think there are different types of large arbor. If just the center hub is bigger, it would actually hold less. |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
"jeffc" wrote in message ... "Dave LaCourse" wrote in message ... A large arbor reel holds more backing than a normal reel. I think there are different types of large arbor. If just the center hub is bigger, it would actually hold less. http://p218.ezboard.com/fflyfishingt...picID=35.topic |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
On Wed, 08 Mar 2006 04:13:48 GMT, "jeffc" wrote:
"Dave LaCourse" wrote in message .. . A large arbor reel holds more backing than a normal reel. I think there are different types of large arbor. If just the center hub is bigger, it would actually hold less. Unless it is much wider, as are all of my large arbors. |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
On Wed, 08 Mar 2006 04:13:48 GMT, "jeffc" wrote:
"Dave LaCourse" wrote in message .. . A large arbor reel holds more backing than a normal reel. I think there are different types of large arbor. If just the center hub is bigger, it would actually hold less. I have several large arbor reels (Bauers and Loops) and they hold less backing than the corresponding small arbor reels for the same line weight. I think this is pretty typical. -- Charlie... http://www.chocphoto.com |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
I am going to wade in (pun not intended) on an opinion on the line for
this fella. I would, if I had it to do over, purchase the Triangle Taper in a 6wt if I were a beginner for a 5wt rod. I realize I am about to be pummeled around the head and shoulders, but that is what I would really do...Wulff Triangle Taper Line TTF-J3-6 Ivory Triangle Taper Line Link: http://www.flyanglersonline.com/pror...gletapers.html Padishar Creel awaiting a large number of bruises... |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
On 7 Mar 2006 14:47:54 -0800, "Erratic Grouse"
wrote: Hello, I recently purchased my first fly rod, a 5wt 4 piece. Now I need to find a reasonably priced reel to go with it. Most of my fishing will be for trout on small to medium sized streams in the Pacific Northwest. There will also be the occasional lake and pond fishing for trout and bass. My questions a 1.) What is a good reel for a college student on very limited budget? I'd like to keep the price of the reel under $50. I see alot of pflueger reels priced inexpensively($30). I've also seen A redington in my price range. I plan on upgrading at some point, so I can have a back up rod or one for friends to use. My main concern is to be able to some serious fishing from now until winter. "Pflueger" covers a lot of ground. If you are talking a older, US-made Medalist, it is a great reel in context (and as the first reel for a beginner with a graphite rod, it probably isn't the appropriate context). If you are talking about the newer Chinese-made Medalist (such as can be had at Wal-Mart, etc.), it is an economy choice - you'll get about what you've paid for: a 22.95USD reel (and yep, for some, a wise, practical choice). If you are talking about Supremes, Trions, and Presidents, you are talking about a different class than either. You are also talking about more than $50. Based on the fishing description you've given up to the use of the words "serious fishing," the reel won't play the largest role - define "serious fishing" please. 2) Do I need a large arbor reel? No. No one _needs_ one. And again, in context, given the fishing you've broadly indicated, you'd probably never notice having one. Here's why: a large arbor, even empty, has a exponentially larger diameter than a smaller arbor. On the first turn loading the backing, the large arbor will load much more than the small arbor. OTOH, on the last turn loading the line, the difference will be solely confined to and by the reel's spool diameter (or internal diameter, if the spool is not readily interchangeable) - let's call it "maximum capacity" diameter. Note that this has nothing to do with the arbor's diameter or the overall diameter of the reel. If the diameter of the line and backing on the reel is 3.35", the size of the arbor under it all is not material to the calculation on a fully-loaded reel with one turn out. Assuming you have two reels of the same "maximum capacity" diameter, one large- and one "small"-arbor, that are fully loaded (NOT equally-loaded) with identical backing and lines, and you strip 20' feet of line from each, the retrieval speed will be about the same, regardless of the arbor diameter. If, OTOH, you strip all the line and half the backing from both, the amount retrieved on each turn will be a great deal different. Here's a hint: the lines are the same length - how long is the backing? Would you mind explaining what that is? It has been explained, at least in terms of its physical description. As to its (practical) advantages, see above. Basically, if your fishing will be with 40-50 ft. or less of total line and tippet out, there are none such as to make buying a large-arbor reel based upon it being a large arbor a practical choice. Large arbors can be helpful when there is a lot of line out - where the quarry is known for long runs - and a quicker retrieve is desired . For example, bonefishing. 3) I've read that a good quality line is more important than the reel, is this true? In some cases, yours almost certainly being one of them, yes. In the aforementioned bonefishing, no. What would be a good line? IMO, it's Impossible to even offer suggestions based on the info you've provided thus far. What rod do you have? What is your goal with this setup? Are you _sure_ about your fishing as outlined above - IOW, again, define "most," "occasional," and "serious fishing." And how large is the expected quarry as opposed to the water? I've seen some pretty big bass in what looked like (or actually were) some pretty small lakes/ponds. I can probably drop another 40-50 bucks on this. Maybe two cheaper lines would be better than a single line...maybe not...see above. 4) Which type of line would you reccomend? Weight Forward or a double taper. Again, see above. HTH, R |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
"Erratic Grouse" wrote in message ups.com... Hello, I recently purchased my first fly rod, a 5wt 4 piece. Now I need to find a reasonably priced reel to go with it. Most of my fishing will be for trout on small to medium sized streams in the Pacific Northwest. There will also be the occasional lake and pond fishing for trout and bass. Greetings Dwayne, I'm from the Pacific Northwest, there are some nice rivers and streams here that will suit that 5wt very well, the Pit River, the McCloud, Hat Creek and certain areas of the Shasta. The 5wt may be a little light to punch the big flies used for bass, but you can use the lighter flies, just be careful not to break the tip. My questions a 1.) What is a good reel for a college student on very limited budget? I'd like to keep the price of the reel under $50. I see alot of pflueger reels priced inexpensively($30). I've also seen A redington in my price range. I plan on upgrading at some point, so I can have a back up rod or one for friends to use. My main concern is to be able to some serious fishing from now until winter. I've seen the Pflueger Medalist 1492 & 1494 under $50 on ebay. I have a 1494 and a 1594, this is what I learned my fly-fishing skills with. They are ok reels to start with, but later on if you decided you would like to get serious you may want to upgrade. The Galvan reels are very nice, but more expensive. 2) Do I need a large arbor reel? Would you mind explaining what that is? Large arbor not really needed. The large arbor reel is larger diameter in the center where the line wraps around. This gives you a faster retrieve and less coil memory on line. I don't use them, but some anglers will swear by them especially with the larger fish 8wt and above. 3) I've read that a good quality line is more important than the reel, is this true? I believe this is true, stick to the name brands, there are also a split of anglers between DT (double taper line) and WF (weight forward line). You'll have to decide for yourself on which to use. Personally I like the WF line. What would be a good line? I can probably drop another 40-50 bucks on this. You'll probably get a mix reaction here, think every fly-fisherman has their favorite. I like the Scientific Anglers (SA) GPX line, but again, it's just my personal preference. 4) Which type of line would you reccomend? Weight Forward or a double taper. Thanks for reading all of this and thanks in Advance for any responses, Dwayne Good luck Dwayne, If you're in the neighborhood, drop into the Upstream Fly Shop in Los Gatos, CA and talk to Curt. He's very honest and will set you up. He knows the Pacific Northwest very well and he can be trusted to guide you in the right direction. http://www.upstreamflyfish.com/pages/846917/index.htm -tom |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
riverman wrote:
If you manage to stock enough backing so that the effective diameter of the spool is the same with a LA and a SA reel, then I can see that you will retrieve the same line with each rotation of the handle. But IME, LA reels tend to be quite a bit larger than a SA with lots of backing. Also, the *width* of the arbor shouldn't have a real effect: if anything, it reduces the increase in the diameter of the takeup reel, and over time will NOT keep pace with the SA reel as it retrieves line. LA reels with wide spools will have more constant retrieval rates, but SA reels with narrow spools will increase their retrieval rate as the spool fills up. But in many cases, the LA reel will still have a larger diameter, and will retrieve faster. The most important advantage of large-arbor reels, IMO, is more consistent drag tension. The second most important (again, IMO) is less tendency to create tangles because of less line coiling. I'd put retrieval speed third. -- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
Tom Nakashima wrote:
If you're in the neighborhood, drop into the Upstream Fly Shop in Los Gatos, CA and talk to Curt. He's very honest and will set you up. He knows the Pacific Northwest very well and he can be trusted to guide you in the right direction. http://www.upstreamflyfish.com/pages/846917/index.htm The one time I was in that shop, years ago, they seemed very disapproving when I said I wanted to buy a creel. :-) The funny thing is that they stocked them, and I bought a very nice Arctic Creel that I've used many times, mostly for whitefish and stocked trout. -- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
On Wed, 8 Mar 2006 07:22:10 -0800, "Tom Nakashima"
wrote: "rw" wrote in message ink.net... Tom Nakashima wrote: If you're in the neighborhood, drop into the Upstream Fly Shop in Los Gatos, CA and talk to Curt. He's very honest and will set you up. He knows the Pacific Northwest very well and he can be trusted to guide you in the right direction. http://www.upstreamflyfish.com/pages/846917/index.htm The one time I was in that shop, years ago, they seemed very disapproving when I said I wanted to buy a creel. :-) The funny thing is that they stocked them, and I bought a very nice Arctic Creel that I've used many times, mostly for whitefish and stocked trout. -- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. Yes rw, I've heard stories about the Upstream Fly Shp in Los Gatos, and about Curt. For some reason he really enjoys chatting with me, guess I'm non threatening or something. On the other hand, anglers have told me they will never visit that shop again. Sunday we talked for hours on bamboo rods and rod makers. Yesterday we talked for hours again while he put new line on my 8wt. when a cat cut my line with her teeth while I was practicing over the past weekend. Yup caught a squirrel and a cat, no harm to either, just yarn used. I've seen Curt a little harsh with other customers, where anglers come in and they think they know everything about fly-fishing. Curt has over 50 years experience in fly-fishing, he's been all over the world and has a great knowledge in the art. He's the first angler I met who doesn't lie, not afraid to admit he's been skunked on a fishing trip. He's also giving me good pointers on fly-fishing. -tom Hmmm...assuming the "facts" reported to be facts, the above says quite a bit about you and "Curt" the magnificent, especially since I'm pretty sure it was unintentional...no, really...for example, I've never met or even conversed with you or good ol' Curt, but I can tell from the info that you've provided that my opinion of either of you wouldn't likely change should the former situation change... |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
On Wed, 08 Mar 2006 06:02:17 -0500, Charlie Choc
wrote: On Wed, 08 Mar 2006 04:13:48 GMT, "jeffc" wrote: "Dave LaCourse" wrote in message . .. A large arbor reel holds more backing than a normal reel. I think there are different types of large arbor. If just the center hub is bigger, it would actually hold less. I have several large arbor reels (Bauers and Loops) and they hold less backing than the corresponding small arbor reels for the same line weight. I think this is pretty typical. Assuming competent, rational reel design rather than reels "designed to sell," it's not only typical, but mathematically highly probable. I'd offer it'd be a certainty unless the reel is, for no apparent practical reason, designed to avoid such - IOW, a unnecessarily (or even ridiculously) wide or large reel. I'd further offer that such (a) design(s) would actually be a detriment. IMO, large-arbor reels acquired with the large arbor being the primary characteristic sought are for those who know exactly why they _want_ them. There's nothing wrong with getting a reel that one likes that happens to be a large-arbor, but that doesn't mean that one can "defend" having it from a practical standpoint on the basis of it being a large-arbor reel. For most FFers, and a great deal of FFing, the arbor size is simply not material. TC, R |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
wrote in message
Assuming competent, rational reel design rather than reels "designed to sell," it's not only typical, but mathematically highly probable. For whatever reason, this reminded me of a mathematical problem whose answer is mathematically correct, but (to me anyway) seemed counterintuitive at first. Here ya go: You have a rope pulled snugly around the earth at the equator (diameter = 7,926 miles +/-). How much length would you need to add to the rope to raise it 6 inches off the earth at all points? Joe F. |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
rb608 wrote:
You have a rope pulled snugly around the earth at the equator (diameter = 7,926 miles +/-). How much length would you need to add to the rope to raise it 6 inches off the earth at all points? pi feet -- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
On 3/8/06 11:39 AM, in article
et, "rw" wrote: rb608 wrote: You have a rope pulled snugly around the earth at the equator (diameter = 7,926 miles +/-). How much length would you need to add to the rope to raise it 6 inches off the earth at all points? pi feet Isn't pi the constant? My guess was 6(pi) inches. It's C=pi(d), so if we add six inches to d (which we had converted from feet to inches), we have C=pi(d+6). Balances out with 6(pi). No? Bill |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
On 3/8/06 11:53 AM, in article , "William
Claspy" wrote: On 3/8/06 11:39 AM, in article et, "rw" wrote: rb608 wrote: You have a rope pulled snugly around the earth at the equator (diameter = 7,926 miles +/-). How much length would you need to add to the rope to raise it 6 inches off the earth at all points? pi feet Isn't pi the constant? My guess was 6(pi) inches. It's C=pi(d), so if we add six inches to d (which we had converted from feet to inches), we have C=pi(d+6). Balances out with 6(pi). No? Whoops. He wanted 6" added to r. So make that 12"(pi), which is pi feet. I'm a little slow on the uptake. (Narrow arbor :-) Bill |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
"William Claspy" wrote in message
My guess was 6(pi) inches. It's C=pi(d), so if we add six inches to d (which we had converted from feet to inches), we have C=pi(d+6). Balances out with 6(pi). No? No. You're thinking correctly, but you only got halfway there. You're actually increasing the diameter by a whole foot (6 inches each side). Joe F. |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
"William Claspy" wrote in message
Whoops. He wanted 6" added to r. So make that 12"(pi), which is pi feet. I'm a little slow on the uptake. (Narrow arbor :-) Too late. The Mars lander already crashed. :-) |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
William Claspy wrote:
On 3/8/06 11:39 AM, in article et, "rw" wrote: rb608 wrote: You have a rope pulled snugly around the earth at the equator (diameter = 7,926 miles +/-). How much length would you need to add to the rope to raise it 6 inches off the earth at all points? pi feet Isn't pi the constant? My guess was 6(pi) inches. It's C=pi(d), so if we add six inches to d (which we had converted from feet to inches), we have C=pi(d+6). Balances out with 6(pi). No? We're not adding six inches to d. We're adding one foot. -- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
|
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
You have a rope pulled snugly around the earth at the equator (diameter = 7,926 miles +/-). How much length would you need to add to the rope to raise it 6 inches off the earth at all points? .8 feet -tom |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
On 3/8/06 12:05 PM, in article
t, "rw" wrote: William Claspy wrote: On 3/8/06 11:39 AM, in article et, "rw" wrote: rb608 wrote: You have a rope pulled snugly around the earth at the equator (diameter = 7,926 miles +/-). How much length would you need to add to the rope to raise it 6 inches off the earth at all points? pi feet Isn't pi the constant? My guess was 6(pi) inches. It's C=pi(d), so if we add six inches to d (which we had converted from feet to inches), we have C=pi(d+6). Balances out with 6(pi). No? We're not adding six inches to d. We're adding one foot. That's why my undergrad degree only has the WRU part of CWRU on it :-) Bill |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
"Tom Nakashima" wrote in message ... You have a rope pulled snugly around the earth at the equator (diameter = 7,926 miles +/-). How much length would you need to add to the rope to raise it 6 inches off the earth at all points? .8 feet -tom Sorry, .08ft -tom |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
"rb608" wrote in
news:v1EPf.40384$%I.25893@trnddc03: "William Claspy" wrote in message My guess was 6(pi) inches. It's C=pi(d), so if we add six inches to d (which we had converted from feet to inches), we have C=pi(d+6). Balances out with 6(pi). No? No. You're thinking correctly, but you only got halfway there. You're actually increasing the diameter by a whole foot (6 inches each side). Joe F. c1=pi*(7926 miles)*5280(feet/mile)*12(inches/ft) c2=pi*((7926 miles)*5280(feet/mile)*12(inches/ft)+12 inches) c2-c1=37.69 inches -- Scott Reverse name to reply |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
On 8 Mar 2006 17:05:57 GMT, Scott Seidman
wrote: This feeling was reinforced when I started seeing mid arbor reels. Brilliant! And, as a NCer would say, hilarious. d;o) |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
You have a rope pulled snugly around the earth at the equator (diameter
= 7,926 miles +/-). How much length would you need to add to the rope to raise it 6 inches off the earth at all points? ..08 ft. or approx, 1" .960" to be exact. -tom |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
On Wed, 08 Mar 2006 16:26:46 GMT, "rb608"
wrote: wrote in message Assuming competent, rational reel design rather than reels "designed to sell," it's not only typical, but mathematically highly probable. For whatever reason, this reminded me of a mathematical problem whose answer is mathematically correct, but (to me anyway) seemed counterintuitive at first. Here ya go: You have a rope pulled snugly around the earth at the equator (diameter = 7,926 miles +/-). How much length would you need to add to the rope to raise it 6 inches off the earth at all points? Joe F OK. You have a piece of fly line wrapped around a pencil (diameter = approx. 1/4"). How much length would you need to add to it to raise it 6 inches off the pencil at all points? You have a chain wrapped around the rear wheel and tire of a tractor (diameter = 5 feet). How much length would you need to add to the chain to raise it 6 inches off the tire at all points? This might provide insight as to why the rope around the equator of the earth seems counterintuitive. Think about the result you want versus to what you're comparing it - using the figure of 7,926 miles is what makes it counterintuitive, because it's the wrong thing to compare with desired result - the 6 inch (radius)/12 inch (diameter) increase. HTH, R |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
rw wrote in news:QmEPf.1822$x94.1172
@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net: Scott Seidman wrote: "rb608" wrote in news:v1EPf.40384$%I.25893@trnddc03: "William Claspy" wrote in message My guess was 6(pi) inches. It's C=pi(d), so if we add six inches to d (which we had converted from feet to inches), we have C=pi(d+6). Balances out with 6(pi). No? No. You're thinking correctly, but you only got halfway there. You're actually increasing the diameter by a whole foot (6 inches each side). Joe F. c1=pi*(7926 miles)*5280(feet/mile)*12(inches/ft) c2=pi*((7926 miles)*5280(feet/mile)*12(inches/ft)+12 inches) c2-c1=37.69 inches Correct, but much more complicated than necessary. c1 = pi*d c2 = pi*(d+(1 foot)) c2-c1 = pi feet Rats. Distributivity gets me again! -- Scott Reverse name to reply |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
On Wed, 08 Mar 2006 16:39:47 GMT, rw
wrote: rb608 wrote: You have a rope pulled snugly around the earth at the equator (diameter = 7,926 miles +/-). How much length would you need to add to the rope to raise it 6 inches off the earth at all points? pi feet hairy palms |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
Scott Seidman wrote:
Rats. Distributivity gets me again! There's a way to raise the rope one foot above the surface of the earth without increasing its length at all. Just move it approximately 308 miles toward either pole. Unfortunately, you'll run up against one of the primary tenets of engineering: You can't push a rope. :-) -- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
"rw" wrote in message k.net... Scott Seidman wrote: Rats. Distributivity gets me again! There's a way to raise the rope one foot above the surface of the earth without increasing its length at all. Just move it approximately 308 miles toward either pole. Assuming your rope initially follows any circumference other than the equator this is impossible. Unfortunately, you'll run up against one of the primary tenets of engineering: You can't push a rope. :-) Which demonstrates one of the primary failings of engineering AND the value of semantics quite nicely. In fact, you most certainly CAN push a rope. :) Wolfgang |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
In article aBDPf.28667$W42.17593@trnddc02, junkmail608
@verizNOSPAMon.net says... wrote in message Assuming competent, rational reel design rather than reels "designed to sell," it's not only typical, but mathematically highly probable. For whatever reason, this reminded me of a mathematical problem whose answer is mathematically correct, but (to me anyway) seemed counterintuitive at first. Here ya go: You have a rope pulled snugly around the earth at the equator (diameter = 7,926 miles +/-). How much length would you need to add to the rope to raise it 6 inches off the earth at all points? Joe F. pi*12" or ~38"? - Ken |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
rw wrote:
Scott Seidman wrote: Rats. Distributivity gets me again! There's a way to raise the rope one foot above the surface of the earth without increasing its length at all. Just move it approximately 308 miles toward either pole. Oops. I made a small arithmetic error. It should be approximately .87 miles. :-) -- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. |
First Fly Rod, Reel and line Questions??
Wolfgang wrote:
"rw" wrote in message k.net... Scott Seidman wrote: Rats. Distributivity gets me again! There's a way to raise the rope one foot above the surface of the earth without increasing its length at all. Just move it approximately 308 miles toward either pole. Assuming your rope initially follows any circumference other than the equator this is impossible. That was part of the problem description: "You have a rope pulled snugly around the earth at the equator." -- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. |
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