Questions on Redington CT (click and pawl) reel
 

In my quest to join the ranks of gearwhores, I decided to get a 3-wt
outfit to add to my 5, 6 and 8. After reading favorable reviews I
opted for the Temple Forks 7'6" 3-wt and a Redington CT. I got both
in yesterday, and rigged up to do some lawn-fishing.

It appears the CT isn't right or left "handed". It has what looks
to be a matching pair of spring and pawls, so I'm guessing it doesn't
really matter which way I set it up. Also, I saw no sign of any
adjustment mechanism, so I'm guessing that the factory "drag" setting
is adequate as is. Is all of this correct?

So how do youse guys go about setting up leaders for fishing a
light rig like that? Most of the factory-made taper butts seems to be
about .021, but that seems a bit too big for matching up to the line
(.019 looks more like it). Does anyone make a knotless tapered leader
that matches well with a 3-wt, or should I just roll my own?


Anyhow, I *really* enjoyed casting with this outfit. It seemed
effortless to cast, but I had to pay a little extra attention to the
backcast to get the feel for when it was loading. I rigged up with a
braided leader just for kicks, and the yarn "fly" I was throwing
seemed to just hover above the lawn.

Finally, if anyone is interested in owning a NIB 2/3 wt. CT,
contact me offgroup. I ordered one before realizing that the 3/4 is
better-suited for this rig, so I have one that hasn't even been used.
And as of last week, there is at least one place that still has the CT
in stock. They aren't reduced, but they are available at Creekside
Fly Fishing: http://www.creeksideflyfishing.com/M...tore_Code=CSFF


Chuck Vance

Questions on Redington CT (click and pawl) reel
 

"Conan the Librarian" wrote in message
om...
"So how do youse guys go about setting up leaders for fishing a
light rig like that? Most of the factory-made taper butts seems to be
about .021, but that seems a bit too big for matching up to the line
(.019 looks more like it). Does anyone make a knotless tapered leader
that matches well with a 3-wt, or should I just roll my own?"

After a fair amount of experimentation this summer I have come to rely on a
furled leader for my 2 and 3 weight rods, going to hand-tied with SS or
Maxima for my 4 weight and above rods. I love the way the 3wt rod I have
casts with a furled leader - very nice, delicate delivery. So far, one
leader lasted all season and will work well into the next. A fair return on
the rather spendy investment these leaders demand (I paid about $10 for a 9
foot, 3 weight design made by an Olympia WA manufacturer stocked by my local
shop).

A couple things I found. First, use a surgeons loop to add about 12" of 5X
tippet to the looped end of the furled leader. I then blood knot 3 feet or
so of 5X or 6X tippet to that. The end loop in a furled leader seems
delicate to me (though I have had no problems despite a few 16" smallies,
numerous panfish and a couple browns in the 14" range). Once it tightens up
on the tippet connection it is a pain in the a** to open it back up,
requiring an awl or bodkin (or 2). With the "sacrifice" 5X as a
semi-permanent connecting piece I only had to work the loop twice all
season.

I found the furled leader didn't present too much "spray" on a forward cast
and what spray there was shook off on a single false cast - fine for dries.
The leader is FAR more supple than any mono construction I have tried and
works superbly for soft-hackle and wet fly presentations "down and across" a
la Nymes. I don't think a furled leader is a very good choice into a wind,
but then neither is a 3wt! For my apps (small streams and ponds, flies to
size 12 wet or 14 dry) this combo is tough to beat.

YMMV

Joe C.

Questions on Redington CT (click and pawl) reel
 

Joe C. wrote:snip I love the way the 3wt rod I have
casts with a furled leader - very nice, delicate delivery. So far, one
leader lasted all season and will work well into the next

I am going to have to give these a try. I have a friend that makes the furled
leaders and I will ask him to make me a few light ones suitable for use on 3
weight rods.

Big Dale

Questions on Redington CT (click and pawl) reel
 

Chuck wrote: It appears the CT isn't right or left "handed". It has what
looks
to be a matching pair of spring and pawls, so I'm guessing it doesn't
really matter which way I set it up.

You got that right. I find that the way it is set up out of the box works fine
for me. I only use drag to keep the reel from overspooling and it does fine for
that.

On the leaders, I just buy a 12 foot leader and shorten the butt by three or
four geet before glueing it to the tip of the fly line. I like to avoid as many
knots as possible due mto all the vegetation in most of the waters that I fish.

Sounds like a cool outfit to me. I got a call from my rod builder yesterday and
he said that he had finished putting the new cool little Leo Eck reel seat on
my Temple Fork 8.5 foot 3 weight 4 piece rod. We will have a good time playing
with it at Rendezvous this weekend. I think I am planning on only taking 4
three weights rods there this weekend.

Toys are cool

Big Dale.

Questions on Redington CT (click and pawl) reel
 

"Cornmuse" wrote in message ...

After a fair amount of experimentation this summer I have come to rely on a
furled leader for my 2 and 3 weight rods, going to hand-tied with SS or
Maxima for my 4 weight and above rods. I love the way the 3wt rod I have
casts with a furled leader - very nice, delicate delivery. So far, one
leader lasted all season and will work well into the next. A fair return on
the rather spendy investment these leaders demand (I paid about $10 for a 9
foot, 3 weight design made by an Olympia WA manufacturer stocked by my local
shop).

I bought a couple of the *rv*s braided leaders when the Austin shop
had their store-closing sale, and so far I like the way it casts on
the 3-wt. Is there a company name I should be looking for for the
leader you describe?

I've been thinking about making my own, but just haven't gotten
around to making the jig for braiding.

A couple things I found. First, use a surgeons loop to add about 12" of 5X
tippet to the looped end of the furled leader. I then blood knot 3 feet or
so of 5X or 6X tippet to that. The end loop in a furled leader seems
delicate to me (though I have had no problems despite a few 16" smallies,
numerous panfish and a couple browns in the 14" range). Once it tightens up
on the tippet connection it is a pain in the a** to open it back up,
requiring an awl or bodkin (or 2). With the "sacrifice" 5X as a
semi-permanent connecting piece I only had to work the loop twice all
season.

Sounds like excellent advice, thanks. I was actually thinking that
the loop on the tippet section looked fairly delicate when I was
setting up my rig. Also, I was wondering if I would run into any
problems with the mono and braid junction due to the dissimilarity of
materials.

I found the furled leader didn't present too much "spray" on a forward cast
and what spray there was shook off on a single false cast - fine for dries.
The leader is FAR more supple than any mono construction I have tried and
works superbly for soft-hackle and wet fly presentations "down and across" a
la Nymes. I don't think a furled leader is a very good choice into a wind,
but then neither is a 3wt! For my apps (small streams and ponds, flies to
size 12 wet or 14 dry) this combo is tough to beat.

I bought the 3-wt for stream fishing here and for some trips I
expect to be taking in the future to places like NC. After my
experience casting even a 5-wt into the wind in Montana in September,
I've got no illusions about it working in those sorts of conditions.
:-}

Thanks for your advice. Now if I can just get someone to comment
on my question about the Redington reel.


Chuck Vance

Questions on Redington CT (click and pawl) reel
 

Questions on Redington CT (click and pawl) reel
 

Conan wrote:snipWhen you say you glue the leader to the line,
are you talking about the method where you insert the leader into the
line and glue it (the Whitlock method)? I usually use a loop-to-loop
connection with a permanent bit of mono nail-knotted to the line with
a perfection loop in the end.

Yeah, I use what is now called "the Whitlock method". I first learned it from
the guys as the Austin Angler. I keep running into "Whitlock methods" that were
in common use before they became "the Whitlock method." I prefer it for my
light line fly lines, but then I have waters that grow a lot more "salad" than
do the ones in the hill country.

Big Dale

Questions on Redington CT (click and pawl) reel
 

Brimbum wrote:


Yeah, I use what is now called "the Whitlock method". I first learned it from
the guys as the Austin Angler. I keep running into "Whitlock methods" that were
in common use before they became "the Whitlock method."

Yeah, I know ... I was taught it by those same guys (Joe and ?) back
in the early 80's. I just tend to call it that because it's a handy
shorthand way to describe it.

I prefer it for my
light line fly lines, but then I have waters that grow a lot more "salad" than
do the ones in the hill country.

Just curious, what do you do to minimize changing leaders (and
shortening your flyline) while at the same time keeping the knots to a
minimum? I've been using the loop-to-loop with an extra length of
tippet surgeon's-knotted to the leader.


Chuck Vance

Questions on Redington CT (click and pawl) reel
 

Conan The Librarian wrote:

Just curious, what do you do to minimize changing leaders (and
shortening your flyline) while at the same time keeping the knots to a
minimum? I've been using the loop-to-loop with an extra length of
tippet surgeon's-knotted to the leader.

Realizing you're not talking to me, I'll chime in anyway.

I tie new leaders onto a mono "butt end" with a blood knot. One butt end
lasts for quite a few leader changes. It's basically the thick end of a
new tapered leader.

I attach the butt end to the flyline with either a needle knot, a nail
knot, or a leader link.

Loop-to-loop connections on light tackle suck, IMO.

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.

Questions on Redington CT (click and pawl) reel
 

conan wrote:


really matter which way I set it up. Also, I saw no sign of any
adjustment mechanism, so I'm guessing that the factory "drag" setting
is adequate as is. Is all of this correct?

my still-unused "new" redington CT 5/6 has a small slightly knurled knob on
the back for adjusting drag. perhaps it's different for the smaller
reels????

eric zamora
fresno, ca.

Questions on Redington CT (click and pawl) reel
 

The Librarian wrote:snip Just curious, what do you do to minimize changing
leaders (and
shortening your flyline) while at the same time keeping the knots to a
minimum? I've been using the loop-to-loop with an extra length of
tippet surgeon's-knotted to the leader.

I don't trust the glue to last more than a year and just clip off about a half
inch of the flyline when I glue another leader to it. I figure that it will
last me about 25 years before I shorten the fly line by more than a couple of
feet. I don't see that as much of a problem. When the tippet gets too thick, I
simply tie in a perfection loop and then loop on some tippet. I have never
figured out a better way, but I am open for new ideas.

Big Dale

Questions on Redington CT (click and pawl) reel
 

Eric wrote:my still-unused "new" redington CT 5/6 has a small slightly knurled
knob on
the back for adjusting drag. perhaps it's different for the smaller
reels????


The smaller reels have the same knob with the same intended use, but you sure
have to use your imagination to notice a hell of a lot of difference.

Big Dale

Questions on Redington CT (click and pawl) reel
 

On Fri, 31 Oct 2003 07:56:07 -0600, Conan The Librarian
wrote:

I've been playing around with a loop-to-loop for connecting tippet
to the braided leader I have on my 3-wt., but it looks awfully fragile.

I've heard of using bimini loops for that, but never tried it.
--
Charlie...

Questions on Redington CT (click and pawl) reel
 

rw wrote:


Realizing you're not talking to me, I'll chime in anyway.

I tie new leaders onto a mono "butt end" with a blood knot. One butt end
lasts for quite a few leader changes. It's basically the thick end of a
new tapered leader.

I attach the butt end to the flyline with either a needle knot, a nail
knot, or a leader link.

Loop-to-loop connections on light tackle suck, IMO.

By "light tackle" do you mean anything lighter than a 6-wt? 5-wt?
What sorts of problems have you had with the loop-to-loop?

I know that some worry about hinging, but I've never noticed a
problem with that. But, I do like the idea of having a slimmer profile
(I tie perfection loops as small as I possibly can, but in heavy mono
they are still a bit bigger than I'd like).

How long do you make your extra butt end? And do you cut off the
very tip of the leader or just leave a longer butt section? (Sorry
about all the butts.)


Chuck Vance

Questions on Redington CT (click and pawl) reel
 

Brimbum wrote:

I don't trust the glue to last more than a year and just clip off about a half
inch of the flyline when I glue another leader to it. I figure that it will
last me about 25 years before I shorten the fly line by more than a couple of
feet. I don't see that as much of a problem. When the tippet gets too thick, I
simply tie in a perfection loop and then loop on some tippet. I have never
figured out a better way, but I am open for new ideas.

Interesting. So you actually add your loop-to-loop at the tippet
end? Wouldn't that be more prone to picking up vegetation than a
surgeon's knot connection? I've been using a three-turn surgeon for
tippets and the perfection loop on the leader and mono butt.

I've been playing around with a loop-to-loop for connecting tippet
to the braided leader I have on my 3-wt., but it looks awfully fragile.


Chuck Vance

Questions on Redington CT (click and pawl) reel
 

eric paul zamora wrote:

my still-unused "new" redington CT 5/6 has a small slightly knurled knob on
the back for adjusting drag. perhaps it's different for the smaller
reels????

Oooops ... I guess I need to go back and take a look at mine. I
completely missed that.

Thanks for the heads-up.


Chuck Vance

Questions on Redington CT (click and pawl) reel
 

On Fri, 31 Oct 2003 08:22:50 -0800, rw
wrote:


It's actually more of an aesthetic thing, I guess. I don't like that big
wad of mono on my leader,

Try tying a small perfection loop instead of a bow. g
--
Charlie...

Questions on Redington CT (click and pawl) reel
 

rw wrote in
m:

Charlie Choc wrote:
On Fri, 31 Oct 2003 08:22:50 -0800, rw
wrote:



It's actually more of an aesthetic thing, I guess. I don't like that
big wad of mono on my leader,


Try tying a small perfection loop instead of a bow. g

No matter how small you tie your loop, there's going to be a section
of doubled-up mono.


That doubled up mono is right on top of your fly line, at least if you're
using a braided connector. It's only slightly less stealthy than the
flyline itself. Your fly is nine feet away from that, or maybe even 12 if
the situation merits that.

I can think of plenty of reasons why I don't catch fish, and insufficient
stealth is probably one of them, but I haven't gotten around to blaming my
leader loop for it.

Scott

Questions on Redington CT (click and pawl) reel
 

On Fri, 31 Oct 2003 08:46:47 -0800, rw
wrote:

No matter how small you tie your loop, there's going to be a section of
doubled-up mono.

I know, I was just laughing at the "big wad" description.
--
Charlie...

Questions on Redington CT (click and pawl) reel
 

Conan The Librarian wrote:
rw wrote:


Realizing you're not talking to me, I'll chime in anyway.

I tie new leaders onto a mono "butt end" with a blood knot. One butt
end lasts for quite a few leader changes. It's basically the thick end
of a new tapered leader.

I attach the butt end to the flyline with either a needle knot, a nail
knot, or a leader link.

Loop-to-loop connections on light tackle suck, IMO.


By "light tackle" do you mean anything lighter than a 6-wt? 5-wt?

6wt or less.

What sorts of problems have you had with the loop-to-loop?

It's actually more of an aesthetic thing, I guess. I don't like that big
wad of mono on my leader, especially when I'm trying to make delicate
presentations (and I need all the help in that regard that I can get).

I know that some worry about hinging, but I've never noticed a
problem with that. But, I do like the idea of having a slimmer profile
(I tie perfection loops as small as I possibly can, but in heavy mono
they are still a bit bigger than I'd like).

How long do you make your extra butt end?

It's the butt end of a tapered leader that I've nail-knotted or
leader-linked onto my flyline. I'll start at maybe 18", and over time it
gets shorter, of course. If I've used a leader link I don't even have to
trim off any flyline to attach a new leader, but by that time the tip of
the flyline is typically so worn that I'll trim it down anyway.

And do you cut off the
very tip of the leader or just leave a longer butt section? (Sorry
about all the butts.)

I'll usually start with a 9' leader and then trim it down to the butt
section after it wears out.

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.

Questions on Redington CT (click and pawl) reel
 

Charlie Choc wrote:
On Fri, 31 Oct 2003 08:22:50 -0800, rw
wrote:



It's actually more of an aesthetic thing, I guess. I don't like that big
wad of mono on my leader,


Try tying a small perfection loop instead of a bow. g

No matter how small you tie your loop, there's going to be a section of
doubled-up mono.

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.

Questions on Redington CT (click and pawl) reel
 

"Scott Seidman" wrote...
rw wrote:
Charlie Choc wrote:
rw wrote:

It's actually more of an aesthetic thing, I guess. I don't like that
big wad of mono on my leader,


Try tying a small perfection loop instead of a bow. g

No matter how small you tie your loop, there's going to be a section
of doubled-up mono.


That doubled up mono is right on top of your fly line, at least if you're
using a braided connector. It's only slightly less stealthy than the
flyline itself. Your fly is nine feet away from that, or maybe even 12 if
the situation merits that.

I can think of plenty of reasons why I don't catch fish, and insufficient
stealth is probably one of them, but I haven't gotten around to blaming my
leader loop for it.

Stealth, to me, is recovering the fly without shaking the tree too much.
--
TL,
Tim
------------------------
http://css.sbcma.com/timj

Questions on Redington CT (click and pawl) reel
 

"Tim J." wrote in message
...

Stealth, to me, is recovering the fly without shaking the tree too
much.

Bobbing back to the surface with a minimum of disturbance and drying
without being detected by fishing companions.

Wolfgang
not as easy as it sounds. :(

Questions on Redington CT (click and pawl) reel
 

On 10/31/03 11:57 AM, in article , "Tim
J." wrote:

"Scott Seidman" wrote...
I can think of plenty of reasons why I don't catch fish, and insufficient
stealth is probably one of them, but I haven't gotten around to blaming my
leader loop for it.

Stealth, to me, is recovering the fly without shaking the tree too much.

SPLORK!

There goes the Top Ramen....

Bill, catcher of trees

Questions on Redington CT (click and pawl) reel
 

chuck wrote:snip Interesting. So you actually add your loop-to-loop at the
tippet
end? Wouldn't that be more prone to picking up vegetation than a
surgeon's knot connection? I've been using a three-turn surgeon for
tippets and the perfection loop on the leader and mono butt.


Everything picks up vegatation around here. I didn't say i enjoyed doing ith
loop-to-loop at the tippet, it just jeeps me from shortening the main part of
the leader more. The only way I have found to keep that loop-to-loop from
looking too fragile is to stick to 3x for tippet. Now I know a bunch of the
trout guys will have strokes for me saying this, but the bluegill and bass
don't seem to care.

Big Dale