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TR: Seychelles
http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...arth_Image.jpg The resort is on Alphonse Island (top in the photo). The fishing is on the flats of St. Francois Island (bottom). Both are coral atolls. In between them is the small island of Bijoutier. The Seychelles are difficult to get to, especially from Stanley, Idaho, and especially when an unpronounceable volcano in Iceland is shutting down air traffic in Europe: http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...allajokull.jpg I sweated bullets for a week before getting on one of the first planes allowed to fly from the US to Paris. Overnighted in the City of Light. Paris lived up to it that beautiful day. My hotel was across the Seine from Notre Dame Cathedral. Walked through the Tuileries and visited the Musee D'Orsay. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0111.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0112.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0113.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0131.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0133.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0138.jpg The next day -- 10 hours to Mahe Island, Seychelles. Facing a six-hour layover in the Mahe airport, I took a cab to Victoria, the capital of the Seychelles. Friday was fish market day. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0145.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0146.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0147.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0148.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0152.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0153.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0154.jpg The routine at Alphonse is: up at 5:30, breakfast at 6:00, get on the Tam Tam at 7:00, http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0292.jpg 45 minutes to St. Francois, towing the skiffs, http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMGP0732.jpg then take a skiff to the vast flats of the St. Francois lagoon. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0208.jpg Lunch on the water. Back to Alphonse at 5:30. Shower, take care of gear, dinner at 7:00, back to the chalet at 9:00, set alarm, crash, repeat. No down time for snorkeling and lying about. Everything good you may have heard about the bonefishing on St. Francois is true. We fished the tidal drop in the morning and the push in the afternoon. I caught, conservatively, over 100 bones, and could have caught twice as many if that were my only goal. The bones flood onto and out of the flats with the tides by the thousands, concentrating along the channels. They're just as difficult to spot and catch as usual, but you get MANY more shots. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMGP0754.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMGP0758.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMGP0767.jpg At low tide the bones are in the deep and at high tide they're dispersed over the flats, so we do something else. I caught this Giant Trevally (a GT or "Geet" in the local way of speaking) at high tide, during the most amazing fishing experience I've ever had. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMGP0746.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMGP0749.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMGP0747.jpg A huge school of mullet was circulating on a flat in a bait ball, herded by the predatory trevally. Not only that, there were thousands of bonefish all around, like spectators to the carnage. This Geet was 107cm and 57lb. After releasing it I caught bones on every cast until I got bored. At high tide we might do some reef fishing for mystery species. Here's one of the prettiest, an Emperor. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0184.jpg Caught of few of these bluefin trevally, and lost three to lemon sharks. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMGP0755.jpg All the guides were good, but Roy, a Norwegian, was my favorite. Here's Roy with a nice bone caught with my rod while we were surf walking for Geets. The bones in the surf have a green color, distinct from the flats fish. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMGP0764.jpg Roy cuts a striking pose. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMGP0737.jpg Mike, my fishing partner for the week, is one of the most interesting men I've ever met. An anthropologist/archaeologist, Professor Emeritus of Yale, author of several books, he's perhaps the foremost authority of the Pre-Columbian civilizations of Mesoamerica, especially the Maya. He's fished nearly everywhere I've ever heard of and many I haven't, and he's a superb raconteur. At 82 years old he's going strong. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0176.jpg Here's a video of Mike catching the first bone of the day: http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbum/MVI_0182.MOV Only ten rods are allowed on St. Francois. On this trip there were four of us. Charles (left) is from Scotland and John is from the north of England, both excellent companions. Charles caught a 127cm, 80+ lb Geet that was the largest taken this season. John caught a nice Geet, hooked up with, but lost, a milkfish, and caught a very nice trigger fish. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0177.jpg Another favorite guide, Scott, has a place in Fairfield, ID, not far from Stanley. We have some mutual Idaho friends. In the summer Scott guides at Enchanted Lake Lodge in Alaska. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0196.jpg Here's the full group, both guides and sports. Left to right: Serge, Devon, Roy, Andrew, Steve (me), Charles, James, John, Mike, Scott. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0219.jpg There are lots of interesting creatures in the islands. Land crabs: http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0231.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0247.jpg Grey Herons: http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0233.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0330.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0320.jpg Fairy Tern: http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0239.jpg Giant Tortoise: http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMGP0731.jpg The astonishing size of these tortoises isn't apparent in the photo. Here's a video that perhaps gives a better impression: http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbum/MVI_0167.MOV Large, intimidating-looking, but harmless spiders: http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0244.jpg Gecko: http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0246.jpg Eel: http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0311.jpg Frigate Birds: http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMGP0763.jpg There were many animals I didn't photograph: several types of rays, sharks, sea turtles, dolphins, etc. Here are some miscellaneous scenery photos: http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0236.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...tonemapped.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0267.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...tonemapped.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0294.jpg Alphonse Island was established as a coconut plantation in the 19th century. This cemetery dates from about 1860. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0250.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0253.jpg The sky is often beautiful. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0169.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMGP0733.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0202.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0224.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0225.jpg http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0229.jpg Great trip. I'll be going back. -- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. |
TR: Seychelles
On May 6, 3:01*pm, rw wrote:
pg Great trip. I'll be going back. Pretty damn cool |
TR: Seychelles
On 5/6/2010 6:57 PM, Larry L wrote:
On May 6, 3:01 pm, wrote: pg Great trip. I'll be going back. Pretty damn cool friggin fantastic stuff. thanks for taking me to a place i'll never visit...and for the effort you took to share your experience. pretty damn cool, indeed! jeff |
TR: Seychelles
On 2010-05-06 18:01:31 -0400, rw said:
Great trip. I'll be going back. WOW! Best roff trip report ever! Very impressive. Who did you book through, and did that include your arrangements in Paris (great day there I see), and the capitol of Seychelles? Gotts convince the wife to set me free for a couple of weeks. Very nice report/pics, Steve. I'm jealous. Dave |
TR: Seychelles
On 5/6/10 6:02 PM, David LaCourse wrote:
On 2010-05-06 18:01:31 -0400, rw said: Great trip. I'll be going back. WOW! Best roff trip report ever! Very impressive. Who did you book through, and did that include your arrangements in Paris (great day there I see), and the capitol of Seychelles? AnglerAdventures handled Paris to Alphonse and back to Paris. I booked everything else myself. The connections are terrible, which is why I stayed overnight in Paris. Don't try to carry a rod on board in Charles de Gaulle (CDG) airport. Doesn't work. I'll never take my 3-piece Sage RPLXi overseas again. I was lucky to get it home. Should have sold it to the Alphonse outfit. Four-piece rods are the only way to go. They fit in the luggage. Gotts convince the wife to set me free for a couple of weeks. Very nice report/pics, Steve. I'm jealous. Dave I'm kinda sorry about the Dave's cortex crack, but it was just sitting there. -- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. |
TR: Seychelles
On 2010-05-06 20:29:03 -0400, rw said:
On 5/6/10 6:02 PM, David LaCourse wrote: On 2010-05-06 18:01:31 -0400, rw said: Great trip. I'll be going back. WOW! Best roff trip report ever! Very impressive. Who did you book through, and did that include your arrangements in Paris (great day there I see), and the capitol of Seychelles? AnglerAdventures handled Paris to Alphonse and back to Paris. I booked everything else myself. The connections are terrible, which is why I stayed overnight in Paris. When I looked into going last year, the logistics were terrible. I think I had to spend a night in Paris and another in Nairobi or another African city, finally arriving on Mahe three days after leaving Boston. I would have also had to spend a night in Victoria going and coming. The logistics turned me off completely. However, it is still on my bucket list. Don't try to carry a rod on board in Charles de Gaulle (CDG) airport. Doesn't work. I'll never take my 3-piece Sage RPLXi overseas again. I was lucky to get it home. Should have sold it to the Alphonse outfit. Four-piece rods are the only way to go. They fit in the luggage. Well, hell, that would have been one of the the rods *I* would have brought. Four or five is the only way, I guess. F&^%$@n french! Gotts convince the wife to set me free for a couple of weeks. Very nice report/pics, Steve. I'm jealous. Dave I'm kinda sorry about the Dave's cortex crack, but it was just sitting there. Just kinda? d;o) Don't worry about it. After all, this is roff. Great report no matter what! Dave |
Seychelles
Hi RW
Thanks for the trip report mate, not a trip I'd be able to do but got a buzz from you sharing your fun. One question tho, why did the rope coming off the back of the tow boat (towing the skiffs) have 3 knots in it? Was it getting caught in the prop? Thanks Rob. "rw" wrote in message ... .. |
Seychelles
On 5/6/10 8:22 PM, Robert from Oz wrote:
Hi RW Thanks for the trip report mate, not a trip I'd be able to do but got a buzz from you sharing your fun. One question tho, why did the rope coming off the back of the tow boat (towing the skiffs) have 3 knots in it? Was it getting caught in the prop? It wasn't getting caught in the prop, but other than that I have no idea. Those guys have it figured out. Some time soon I'll post a video of a really rough trip back to Alphonse. I mean seriously rough. Major, super-duty rough. Like scary looking-for-life-jackets rough. That might clarify it for you. -- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. |
TR: Seychelles
On 6-May-2010, jeff wrote: n 5/6/2010 6:57 PM, Larry L wrote: On May 6, 3:01 pm, wrote: pg Great trip. I'll be going back. Pretty damn cool friggin fantastic stuff. thanks for taking me to a place i'll never visit...and for the effort you took to share your experience. pretty damn cool, indeed! I agree- Thanks for the TR and Great fotos Fred |
TR: Seychelles
On 5/7/10 8:27 AM, Fred wrote:
On 6-May-2010, wrote: n 5/6/2010 6:57 PM, Larry L wrote: On May 6, 3:01 pm, wrote: pg Great trip. I'll be going back. Pretty damn cool friggin fantastic stuff. thanks for taking me to a place i'll never visit...and for the effort you took to share your experience. pretty damn cool, indeed! I agree- Thanks for the TR and Great fotos Fred Just wondering -- did you guys see the videos? Did they work? -- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. |
TR: Seychelles
"rw" wrote in message ... http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...arth_Image.jpg The resort is on Alphonse Island (top in the photo). The fishing is on the flats of St. Francois Island (bottom). Both are coral atolls. In between them is the small island of Bijoutier. Looks like a spectacular trip Steve, Thanks for sharing, JT |
TR: Seychelles
On 2010-05-07 10:45:02 -0400, rw said:
Just wondering -- did you guys see the videos? Did they work? Saw the one with Mike landing a small bone, but the naration really sucked. d;o) The tortoise one wouldn't download, probably because of the slow service we have here in the mountains. Great photography. |
TR: Seychelles
"rw" wrote in message ... Just wondering -- did you guys see the videos? Did they work? They worked for me, took a bit to download but good video. How tall was the tortoise at the top of the shell? The fishing video puts my mind to dreaming... Thanks, JT |
TR: Seychelles
On 5/7/10 9:46 AM, JT wrote:
"rw" wrote in message ... Just wondering -- did you guys see the videos? Did they work? They worked for me, took a bit to download but good video. How tall was the tortoise at the top of the shell? The fishing video puts my mind to dreaming... Thanks, JT I'd guess it was almost three feet tall. It was freaking enormous. -- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. |
TR: Seychelles
On 2010-05-07 10:45:02 -0400, rw said:
On 5/7/10 8:27 AM, Fred wrote: On 6-May-2010, wrote: n 5/6/2010 6:57 PM, Larry L wrote: On May 6, 3:01 pm, wrote: pg Great trip. I'll be going back. Pretty damn cool friggin fantastic stuff. thanks for taking me to a place i'll never visit...and for the effort you took to share your experience. pretty damn cool, indeed! I agree- Thanks for the TR and Great fotos Fred Just wondering -- did you guys see the videos? Did they work? Finally down-loaded the tortoise vid. Cool. Here is some info on them. Pretty big AND old. Some have lived more than 200 years. |
TR: Seychelles
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TR: Seychelles
Awesome. Do you have a blog? It would be great to put this all together as a pictorial with the text. I would love to hook into one of those "geet." Frank Reid (you looking for a ghillie?). |
TR: Seychelles
On 5/7/2010 10:45 AM, rw wrote:
On 5/7/10 8:27 AM, Fred wrote: On 6-May-2010, wrote: n 5/6/2010 6:57 PM, Larry L wrote: On May 6, 3:01 pm, wrote: pg Great trip. I'll be going back. Pretty damn cool friggin fantastic stuff. thanks for taking me to a place i'll never visit...and for the effort you took to share your experience. pretty damn cool, indeed! I agree- Thanks for the TR and Great fotos Fred Just wondering -- did you guys see the videos? Did they work? the big Q for quicktime showed up, but vids never loaded for me... jeff |
TR: Seychelles
On 5/7/10 9:06 PM, Frank Reid © 2010 wrote:
Awesome. Do you have a blog? It would be great to put this all together as a pictorial with the text. I would love to hook into one of those "geet." Frank Reid (you looking for a ghillie?). I have a web site (where the photos are) but I don't have at the moment have software to create a "blog." Maybe I'll look into that. -- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. |
TR: Seychelles
On 6-May-2010, rw wrote: Lunch on the water. Back to Alphonse at 5:30. Shower, take care of gear, dinner at 7:00, back to the chalet at 9:00, set alarm, crash, repeat. No down time for snorkeling and lying about I have a couple of questions for you, rw, about this trip: How were the accomodations? Seems world class ?? (I ask becuse if they have a spa and other activities I could convince SWMBO & I will run this trip by her) It has to be warmer than Montana in Winter Did you book this trip yourself or thru an outfoitter? Did you shoot the fotos and video for yourself? or for a website or publication? Again thanks for sharing this "great" trip and congratulations on a great trip Fred |
TR: Seychelles
On 05/06/2010 04:01 PM, rw wrote:
http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...arth_Image.jpg The resort is on Alphonse Island (top in the photo). The fishing is on the flats of St. Francois Island (bottom). Both are coral atolls. In between them is the small island of Bijoutier. Great stuff snipped Thanks, Steve, that was friggin' awesome. Absolutely wonderful pictures. Thanks for the morning tag along. Russell |
TR: Seychelles
On 05/08/2010 05:14 AM, rw wrote:
On 5/7/10 9:06 PM, Frank Reid © 2010 wrote: Awesome. Do you have a blog? It would be great to put this all together as a pictorial with the text. I would love to hook into one of those "geet." Frank Reid (you looking for a ghillie?). I have a web site (where the photos are) but I don't have at the moment have software to create a "blog." Maybe I'll look into that. There are a gazillion worthless blogs out there. This would not fit that category. Do it. Russell |
TR: Seychelles
On 5/8/10 10:38 AM, Fred wrote:
On 6-May-2010, wrote: Lunch on the water. Back to Alphonse at 5:30. Shower, take care of gear, dinner at 7:00, back to the chalet at 9:00, set alarm, crash, repeat. No down time for snorkeling and lying about I have a couple of questions for you, rw, about this trip: How were the accomodations? First rate. Seems world class ?? (I ask becuse if they have a spa and other activities I could convince SWMBO & I will run this trip by her) I wouldn't recommend this for someone who isn't mainly interesting in fishing or diving. It has to be warmer than Montana in Winter That's a safe assumption. Did you book this trip yourself or thru an outfoitter? I went through Angler Adventures. Frontiers also books these trips. Did you shoot the fotos and video for yourself? or for a website or publication? Shot them myself (except for the ones I'm in, of course, and the volcano photo and the Google Earth screenshot). I just received via email a couple of photos of the GT that Roy, the guide, shot with his camera. They're much better than mine. I'll post links when I get a chance. -- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. |
TR: Seychelles
On 8-May-2010, rw wrote: I wouldn't recommend this for someone who isn't mainly interesting in fishing or diving. Thanks Fred |
TR: Seychelles
On 2010-05-08 16:48:12 -0400, rw said
I wouldn't recommend this for someone who isn't mainly interesting in fishing or diving. Diving..... Do they have masks, snorkels, fins, and pfd the guests can use? If I go, and that is the plan at the moment (although Jo doesn't know it), it would be nice to take a day off of fishing and do some snorkeling. Weight restrictions would prevent bringing my own stuff. BTW, Steve, how was the food? The accomodations look first class, but I should think the logistics of getting fresh food to such an isolated place would be difficult. What about wine, beer, and some of that wayno stuff (see throughs)? Dave |
TR: Seychelles
On 5/8/10 3:56 PM, David LaCourse wrote:
On 2010-05-08 16:48:12 -0400, rw said I wouldn't recommend this for someone who isn't mainly interesting in fishing or diving. Diving..... Do they have masks, snorkels, fins, and pfd the guests can use? If I go, and that is the plan at the moment (although Jo doesn't know it), it would be nice to take a day off of fishing and do some snorkeling. Weight restrictions would prevent bringing my own stuff. Yes, they have that stuff. I love snorkeling but never had a chance to do it. BTW, Steve, how was the food? The accomodations look first class, but I should think the logistics of getting fresh food to such an isolated place would be difficult. What about wine, beer, and some of that wayno stuff (see throughs)? The food (all meals included) is excellent -- very fancy. Drinks (not included) are extremely expensive. Take your own. -- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. |
TR: Seychelles
said I wouldn't recommend this for someone who isn't mainly interesting in fishing or diving. On 8-May-2010, David LaCourse wrote: If I go, and that is the plan at the moment (although Jo doesn't know it), it would be nice to take a day off of fishing and do some snorkeling One other question please - Are the islands French speaking or at least the predominant language? The problem that I have is that because the trip is not inexpensive my wife would want to go -and to be fair to my Joanne, I can understand why I have gone on other "costly" fishing trips w friends or by myself But now w a 2 -3 week or so trip and the expense My wife would definitely want to go -Perhaps there is a compromise here?? She doesn't really fly fish She has mnade attempts but she wopuld sooner read a book or so while I fish And I myself would like to do some other things besides fishing I have done a regimen similar to yours at other lodges and deduced that 6 straight days of fishing It is not what I would want either Anyway we don't get paid for it and we like sleeping later than 5:30 Ists vaca not work We would like to take a few days and dive or do some tourist activities, photography,watching wildlife or some typical vacationing things,(helicopter trips) I will contact Frontiers and gert further info Thanks Muammar al-Gaddafi |
TR: Seychelles
On 5/8/10 4:23 PM, Fred wrote:
One other question please - Are the islands French speaking or at least the predominant language? The Seychelles was originally a French colony. The British took it in 1814. The people in Mahe can get along in sometimes broken French and English. Among themselves they speak a Creole that was unintelligible to me. The Alphonse Island resort is a South African operation. Everyone with the exception of two guides (Roy, a Norwegian, and Scott, an American) was South African. English is the language, unless you speak Afrikaans. :-) The problem that I have is that because the trip is not inexpensive my wife would want to go -and to be fair to my Joanne, I can understand why I have gone on other "costly" fishing trips w friends or by myself But now w a 2 -3 week or so trip and the expense My wife would definitely want to go -Perhaps there is a compromise here?? The trip cost about $10,000. Maybe a little more. That's single occupancy. Give Joanne $10,000 and tell her she can go where ever she wants while you're in the Seychelles. Anyway we don't get paid for it and we like sleeping later than 5:30 You have to be on the Tam Tam by 7:00. Take it or leave it. This is serious, all-day, all-week flats fishing. That's why people go there. It's the best in the world. -- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. |
TR: Seychelles
On 8-May-2010, rw wrote: The trip cost about $10,000. Maybe a little more. That's single occupancy. Give Joanne $10,000 and tell her she can go where ever she wants while you're in the Seychelles. == I will but you will meet her Anyway we don't get paid for it and we like sleeping later than 5:30 You have to be on the Tam Tam by 7:00. Take it or leave it. This is serious, all-day, all-week flats fishing. That's why people go there. It's the best in the world. There is my compromise man! It is being discussed as of May 8 as i have e-mailed her all info and a call to Fronteirs on Mon I used to be fluent in French- not so now But from what you tell me I am sure I would underatand very little Aanywaty \ It is fun - for me - to speak their langauges French and Spanish and and When I went to ea place I did at least attemt to speak the language and it was fun and you learn esp w French that their language is far more expressive than English perrhaps MORE "emotional content" Patagonia HAblo Esoanol pero We will see Its being mulled over and brewing in our brains We will discuss it- I hope to hoist a brew or 2 w you -not too far away and hopefully warmer Don Drysdale |
TR: Seychelles
On May 6, 3:01*pm, rw wrote:
http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...arth_Image.jpg The resort is on Alphonse Island (top in the photo). The fishing is on the flats of St. Francois Island (bottom). Both are coral atolls. In between them is the small island of Bijoutier. The Seychelles are difficult to get to, especially from Stanley, Idaho, and especially when an unpronounceable volcano in Iceland is shutting down air traffic in Europe: http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...allajokull.jpg I sweated bullets for a week before getting on one of the first planes allowed to fly from the US to Paris. Overnighted in the City of Light. Paris lived up to it that beautiful day. My hotel was across the Seine from Notre Dame Cathedral. Walked through the Tuileries and visited the Musee D'Orsay. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0138.jpg The next day -- 10 hours to Mahe Island, Seychelles. Facing a six-hour layover in the Mahe airport, I took a cab to Victoria, the capital of the Seychelles. Friday was fish market day. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0154.jpg The routine at Alphonse is: up at 5:30, breakfast at 6:00, get on the Tam Tam at 7:00, http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0292.jpg 45 minutes to St. Francois, towing the skiffs, http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMGP0732.jpg then take a skiff to the vast flats of the St. Francois lagoon. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0208.jpg Lunch on the water. Back to Alphonse at 5:30. Shower, take care of gear, dinner at 7:00, back to the chalet at 9:00, set alarm, crash, repeat. No down time for snorkeling and lying about. Everything good you may have heard about the bonefishing on St. Francois is true. We fished the tidal drop in the morning and the push in the afternoon. I caught, conservatively, over 100 bones, and could have caught twice as many if that were my only goal. The bones flood onto and out of the flats with the tides by the thousands, concentrating along the channels. They're just as difficult to spot and catch as usual, but you get MANY more shots. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMGP0767.jpg At low tide the bones are in the deep and at high tide they're dispersed over the flats, so we do something else. I caught this Giant Trevally (a GT or "Geet" in the local way of speaking) at high tide, during the most amazing fishing experience I've ever had. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMGP0747.jpg A huge school of mullet was circulating on a flat in a bait ball, herded by *the predatory trevally. Not only that, there were thousands of bonefish all around, like spectators to the carnage. This Geet was 107cm and 57lb. After releasing it I caught bones on every cast until I got bored. At high tide we might do some reef fishing for mystery species. Here's one of the prettiest, an Emperor. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0184.jpg Caught of few of these bluefin trevally, and lost three to lemon sharks. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMGP0755.jpg All the guides were good, but Roy, a Norwegian, was my favorite. Here's Roy with a nice bone caught with my rod while we were surf walking for Geets. The bones in the surf have a green color, distinct from the flats fish. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMGP0764.jpg Roy cuts a striking pose. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMGP0737.jpg Mike, my fishing partner for the week, is one of the most interesting men I've ever met. An anthropologist/archaeologist, Professor Emeritus of Yale, author of several books, he's perhaps the foremost authority of the Pre-Columbian civilizations of Mesoamerica, especially the Maya. He's fished nearly everywhere I've ever heard of and many I haven't, and he's a superb raconteur. At 82 years old he's going strong. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0176.jpg Here's a video of Mike catching the first bone of the day: http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbum/MVI_0182.MOV Only ten rods are allowed on St. Francois. On this trip there were four of us. Charles (left) is from Scotland and John is from the north of England, both excellent companions. Charles caught a 127cm, 80+ lb Geet that was the largest taken this season. John caught a nice Geet, hooked up with, but lost, a milkfish, and caught a very nice trigger fish. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0177.jpg Another favorite guide, Scott, has a place in Fairfield, ID, not far from Stanley. We have some mutual Idaho friends. In the summer Scott guides at Enchanted Lake Lodge in Alaska. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0196.jpg Here's the full group, both guides and sports. Left to right: Serge, Devon, Roy, Andrew, Steve (me), Charles, James, John, Mike, Scott. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0219.jpg There are lots of interesting creatures in the islands. Land crabs: http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0247.jpg Grey Herons: http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0320.jpg Fairy Tern: http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0239.jpg Giant Tortoise: http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMGP0731.jpg The astonishing size of these tortoises isn't apparent in the photo. Here's a video that perhaps gives a better impression: http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbum/MVI_0167.MOV Large, intimidating-looking, but harmless spiders: http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0244.jpg Gecko: http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0246.jpg Eel: http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0311.jpg Frigate Birds:http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMGP0763.jpg There were many animals I didn't photograph: several types of rays, sharks, sea turtles, dolphins, etc. Here are some miscellaneous scenery photos: http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0294.jpg Alphonse Island was established as a coconut plantation in the 19th century. This cemetery dates from about 1860. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0253.jpg The sky is often beautiful. http://www.ruralnetwork.net/~troutbu...s/IMG_0229.jpg Great trip. I'll be going back. -- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. Great TR. Thanx. From your text the "Mike" you fished with has to be Michael Coe, whose book "Breaking the Mayan Code" publicized the true story of the deciferment of the written Mayan language. Credit for figuring out that the Mayan inscriptions were a written phoenetic spelling system goes to a young Russian, Yuri Knorozoz, in 1952. But many others have moved the work forward. Coe was one of the few Western scholars to give Knorozov findings a fair hearing. But it was not until the 1970s that the English/American propaganda war against just about anything coming out of Communist Russia was overcome and academic and field research was freed. Linda Schele (U of Texas) is the person I credit most, who, along with others put together the incredible story, from the Mayan's own written word, of the "Star Wars" that led to the destruction and abandonment of the great Mayan cities. Despite the factual accounts left by the Mayan writers, popular speculation and political convience as to the causes of the abandonment still include much nonsence. Maybe that's because the written record clearly points the fingure at an out of control, greedy, priesthood and a bloated noble class which weighed so heavily on the worker bees, that ultimately the worker bees just walked away. In the 1940-1960s such a conclusion was not acceptable to the ideologically motivated Cold Warriors. Consequently, funding went to compliant academics. Coe was one of the good guys. Yale's games around repatriation of Inca and Matchu Pichu materials is a less noble chapter. Dave |
TR: Seychelles
On 5/9/10 7:11 PM, DaveS wrote:
Great TR. Thanx. From your text the "Mike" you fished with has to be Michael Coe, whose book "Breaking the Mayan Code" publicized the true story of the deciferment of the written Mayan language. Mike's been a serious fisherman for all of his long life. He's fished everywhere. -- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. |
TR: Seychelles
On May 6, 4:01*pm, rw wrote:
Great trip. I'll be going back. Thanks for sharing, looked like a fine time. Not that I'd pass up a free trip offer, but for some reason flats fishing doesn't excite me very much. I'm sure it'd be fun and fine and all that, but I don't ever see myself going out of my way to pursue flats fishing. About the only thing in S/W that appeals to me enough to perhaps plan a trip for is hooking up on a big (50+?) tarpon on the fly. Different strokes I guess. Jon. |
TR: Seychelles
A nice report with excellent photos, thank you very much. Perfect timing as well, because reading it didn't hurt that much now that the summer is here. -- Jarmo Hurri Remove all garbage from header email address when replying, or just use . |
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