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Starting drag info please
I am lookinginto buying an 8 wt reel in the up to $200 range.
Mostly for steelhead/salmon and stripers with some light sal****er usage once in a while. Tioga Reels seem to be very popular and I was ready to buy a LA one but than a friend pointed out a Lamson Velocity 3.5 in a local shop. Most people here seem to like the Velocity reels. Last night a browswed through a book - Lefty Kreh "Presenting the fly"- and in the section about reels he says: "A low starting drag is vital to prevent fish from breaking off" I could not remember hearing or reading about this but than again I am pretty new to fly fishing. I figured that is just something the reel manufacturers are not happy to talk about. I was sure I would find a lot of info in ROFF. Not so. I did a search on "startup drag" and "starting drag" and "startup inertia" and pretty much the only useful info I found was a post from May 2002 talking about a Fly Fish America magazine test. The Lamson Velocity 3.5 with a startup velocity of 14.3% was the 2nd WORST. The LA Tioga was not listed in the post. How come there are no discussions on this in ROFF ? I mean if Lefty talks about it there has to be SOMETHING to it. Any opinions ? Thanks ZL |
Starting drag info please
"zoranlee" wrote in message om... How come there are no discussions on this in ROFF ? I mean if Lefty talks about it there has to be SOMETHING to it. Any opinions ? Thanks ZL I seem to remember quite a discussion on the subject here on ROFF, with all the attendant theories relating the diameter of standard spools vs. large arbor spools, and the effects of ziton rays on the meniscus, etc. I feel sure that someone will be happy to rehash this. BTW, some of us put more credence in Pancho than Lefty. Danl |
Starting drag info please
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Starting drag info please
Don't buy anything until you play with an Sth LA3.
http://www.sthreels.com/turbinedisc.html "zoranlee" wrote in message om... I am lookinginto buying an 8 wt reel in the up to $200 range. Mostly for steelhead/salmon and stripers with some light sal****er usage once in a while. Tioga Reels seem to be very popular and I was ready to buy a LA one but than a friend pointed out a Lamson Velocity 3.5 in a local shop. Most people here seem to like the Velocity reels. Last night a browswed through a book - Lefty Kreh "Presenting the fly"- and in the section about reels he says: "A low starting drag is vital to prevent fish from breaking off" I could not remember hearing or reading about this but than again I am pretty new to fly fishing. I figured that is just something the reel manufacturers are not happy to talk about. I was sure I would find a lot of info in ROFF. Not so. I did a search on "startup drag" and "starting drag" and "startup inertia" and pretty much the only useful info I found was a post from May 2002 talking about a Fly Fish America magazine test. The Lamson Velocity 3.5 with a startup velocity of 14.3% was the 2nd WORST. The LA Tioga was not listed in the post. How come there are no discussions on this in ROFF ? I mean if Lefty talks about it there has to be SOMETHING to it. Any opinions ? Thanks ZL |
Starting drag info please
Charlie Choc wrote: On 8 Feb 2004 14:19:36 -0800, (zoranlee) wrote: Last night a browswed through a book - Lefty Kreh "Presenting the fly"- and in the section about reels he says: "A low starting drag is vital to prevent fish from breaking off" Read a little further and he says to set the drag for no more than 1# of straight pull and apply additional pressure as needed with your fingers. This will pretty much take any additional start up resistance of the reel out of play - assuming your tippet strength is greater than 1#. If you set a drag so low, what is the advantage of a reel with a drag over a click and pawl? Willi |
Starting drag info please
On Sun, 08 Feb 2004 18:07:40 -0700, Willi wrote:
Charlie Choc wrote: On 8 Feb 2004 14:19:36 -0800, (zoranlee) wrote: Last night a browswed through a book - Lefty Kreh "Presenting the fly"- and in the section about reels he says: "A low starting drag is vital to prevent fish from breaking off" Read a little further and he says to set the drag for no more than 1# of straight pull and apply additional pressure as needed with your fingers. This will pretty much take any additional start up resistance of the reel out of play - assuming your tippet strength is greater than 1#. If you set a drag so low, what is the advantage of a reel with a drag over a click and pawl? Willi Except for runners like salmon, steelies, and bones etc. -- not much. Peter turn mailhot into hotmail to reply Visit The Streamer Page at http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharl...ers/index.html |
Starting drag info please
On Sun, 08 Feb 2004 20:26:15 -0500, Peter Charles
wrote: On Sun, 08 Feb 2004 18:07:40 -0700, Willi wrote: Charlie Choc wrote: On 8 Feb 2004 14:19:36 -0800, (zoranlee) wrote: Last night a browswed through a book - Lefty Kreh "Presenting the fly"- and in the section about reels he says: "A low starting drag is vital to prevent fish from breaking off" Read a little further and he says to set the drag for no more than 1# of straight pull and apply additional pressure as needed with your fingers. This will pretty much take any additional start up resistance of the reel out of play - assuming your tippet strength is greater than 1#. If you set a drag so low, what is the advantage of a reel with a drag over a click and pawl? Willi Except for runners like salmon, steelies, and bones etc. -- not much. Which has often been stated here...and many would agree... |
Starting drag info please
In article ,
(zoranlee) wrote: I am lookinginto buying an 8 wt reel in the up to $200 range. Mostly for steelhead/salmon and stripers with some light sal****er usage once in a while. Tioga Reels seem to be very popular and I was ready to buy a LA one but than a friend pointed out a Lamson Velocity 3.5 in a local shop. Most people here seem to like the Velocity reels. Last night a browswed through a book - Lefty Kreh "Presenting the fly"- and in the section about reels he says: "A low starting drag is vital to prevent fish from breaking off" I could not remember hearing or reading about this but than again I am pretty new to fly fishing. I figured that is just something the reel manufacturers are not happy to talk about. I was sure I would find a lot of info in ROFF. Not so. I did a search on "startup drag" and "starting drag" and "startup inertia" and pretty much the only useful info I found was a post from May 2002 talking about a Fly Fish America magazine test. The Lamson Velocity 3.5 with a startup velocity of 14.3% was the 2nd WORST. The LA Tioga was not listed in the post. How come there are no discussions on this in ROFF ? I mean if Lefty talks about it there has to be SOMETHING to it. Any opinions ? Thanks ZL Hi, flyfishamerica discusses this. Go to http://www.flyfishamerica.com/Buyers...ersGuides.html and click on large arbor reels. -- "He that would exchange liberty for temporary safety deserves neither liberty nor safety. Ben Franklin "Those who are ready to sacrifice freedom for security ultimately will lose both" - Abraham Lincoln |
Starting drag info please
Stick to basic black and don't wear open-toe heels in the Winter. :-)
----------------------------------------------------- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. |
Starting drag info please
On 8 Feb 2004 14:19:36 -0800, (zoranlee) wrote: There were some discussions on reel "inertia". Possibly three years ago? I also remember exchanging e-mails with at least two people on the subject. It may have been on another group somewhere, but I donīt think so. There was also some discussion on the old VFS board, as I recall. The main point is, that no matter how free running a reel may be, if the line moves fast enough before the reel engages, then you will get a break-off, if you are using fine tippet. This is exactly due to inertia. The inertia of the reel ( and the friction of the line through the rings, the force bending the rod etc), must be overcome, before it moves at all. You can try this quite easily. Put some fine tippet on the end of your line, get somebody to point the rod straight at you, and jerk the tippet. It will break before the reel even begins to revolve. Pull slowly, and it will not. One of the main purposes of a rod is to cushion such "jerks", and translate them into "smoother" pulls. If you do this with a rod held vertically, you will see that the rod has a considerable bend in it, before you even get close to the breaking strain of any reasonable tippet, and without the reel moving at all. Actually, quite considerable force is required to set even a free running reel revolving. This is quite independent of drags etc, although a drag will of course increase the problem, by braking the reel. Click and pawl "drags" are really only there to stop overruns. They do of course add a braking effect as well. Unfortunately, the description "large arbor" can mean a lot of things. In fact in many cases it seems to mean "wide arbor", and is independent of the reel diameter. However this may be, a large diameter lightweight reel with a wide arbor, is most efficient at start up ( all other things being equal). It is also more efficient when winding in line, or in playing a fish. If one, ( as is common nowadays) uses a very fast ( not only recovery speed wise, but also "stiff"), rod, and fine tippet, then breaks are inevitable, no matter what reel one uses. ( Apart from a fixed spool, which would be a bit pointless for fly-fishing under normal circumstances). Lastly, and possibly of only minor interest anyway, styles and fashions have changed over the years. At one time, it was considered extremely unsporting by many, to use equipment, ( especially tippet), which a fish could easily break. Of course some skill was still required, even with the appropriate tippet.This is apparently no longer the case. The trend is towards very fine tippet, very fast rods, and the fish are often larger as well. The result is inevitable. This is exacerbated by the tons of absolutely useless advice flying around, to "get the fish on the reel". For some fish, this is obviously essential. For normal sized trout and the like, it is a waste of time and effort. Use the rod to fight the fish, not the reel. If you do this properly. and with the correct equipment, then you will never get broken by a fish, quite irrespective of what reel you use. TL MC |
Starting drag info please
Hi! Go to page http://groups.google.com/ and use search words reel startup inertia -- Jarmo Hurri Spam countermeasures included in header email address. Remove all spam from header email address when replying, or just use . |
Starting drag info please
On Sun, 08 Feb 2004 18:07:40 -0700, Willi wrote:
If you set a drag so low, what is the advantage of a reel with a drag over a click and pawl? As others stated, not much other than on long running fish. One of the times I was in Belize I saw a guy's click and pawl reel that was pretty torn up after only one day of fishing. -- Charlie... |
Starting drag info please
"rw" wrote in message . .. Stick to basic black and don't wear open-toe heels in the Winter. :-) hilarious. but i *am* concerned that you were able to make the connection... wayno |
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