Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

Planning on using some mono to connect flyline
to leader, using a nail knot. What pound test
mono should I use? 4 weight flyline.
This rod will be used for bluegills.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Skip

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

Skip Summer wrote:

Planning on using some mono to connect flyline
to leader, using a nail knot. What pound test
mono should I use? 4 weight flyline.
This rod will be used for bluegills.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Skip

I use store bought "continuous taper" leaders, 7.5' 3X.
Depending on the brand the thick end is between .019 and
..021, which translates to like 20lb. mono. The tipppet
end is .008, of course, about a 4 or 5lb test.

--
Ken Fortenberry

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

"Skip Summer" wrote in message
om...
Planning on using some mono to connect flyline
to leader, using a nail knot. What pound test
mono should I use?

Look at the diameter of the large end of the leader and purchase butt
section that is the same or just a little larger in diameter. Least this is
what I do...

ymmv,
JT

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

Skip Summer wrote:

Planning on using some mono to connect flyline
to leader, using a nail knot. What pound test
mono should I use? 4 weight flyline.
This rod will be used for bluegills.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Skip

Use a braided loop (floating or sinking depending on your line type). This

kind of connection is much stronger than the nailknot.

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

"Svend Tang-Petersen" wrote in message
...
Skip Summer wrote:

Planning on using some mono to connect flyline
to leader, using a nail knot. What pound test
mono should I use? 4 weight flyline.
This rod will be used for bluegills.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Skip

Use a braided loop (floating or sinking depending on your line type). This

kind of connection is much stronger than the nailknot.


Granted Skip is talking about a 4 weight and the braided loop is probably
fine for that application, personally not my preference.

If you are fishing for pike, steelhead, salmon, large species, I would
suggest a nail knot connection... I know of a couple guys that fish pike
allot and they went away from the braided loop after having pike jerk the
loop off the fly line.

I tried the braided loop when they came out and found the end of a floating
line will sink. ymmv.

JT

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

Svend Tang-Petersen wrote:
Skip Summer wrote:
Planning on using some mono to connect flyline
to leader, using a nail knot. What pound test
mono should I use? 4 weight flyline.
This rod will be used for bluegills.
Thanks in advance for the help.

Use a braided loop (floating or sinking depending on your line type). This
kind of connection is much stronger than the nailknot.

I think that's both bad advice and misinformation. I've seen
braided loops pull off and a fly line will break long before
a well tied nail knot will fail.

If it's the loop you're after I'd recommend a nail knot and a
small perfection loop instead of a braided loop and super glue.

--
Ken Fortenberry

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

Ken Fortenberry wrote:

If it's the loop you're after I'd recommend a nail knot and a
small perfection loop instead of a braided loop and super glue.

The most elegant solution, if you want a loop connection for your
leader, is a whipped loop. It's easy to tie. You'll need a razor blade,
thread, a bobbin, and some head cement.

See:
http://www.flyfishinsalt.com/article...&categoryID=69

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

Ken Fortenberry wrote:
I think that's both bad advice and misinformation. I've seen
braided loops pull off and a fly line will break long before
a well tied nail knot will fail.

I've used both but I use the braided loop exclusively now. The only time I
have had one fail is when it goes hard, it doesn't do it's chinese finger
compresion, after it has been on the line for a few years. Getting snagged
on the bottom doesn't even pull it off, the tippet breaks first. I even had
a braided salmon leader break while using a twenty pound tippet and the loop
was still holding.


If it's the loop you're after I'd recommend a nail knot and a
small perfection loop instead of a braided loop and super glue.

I don't use super glue, never have, it makes the braid go hard and it
doesn't tighten on the fly line. I just use the piece of sleeve that comes
with the loop.

I make my own loops now from braided backing, much cheaper :)


--
E-Mail:-
Website:- http://www.ftscotland.co.uk
Looking for a webhost? Try http://www.1and1.co.uk/?k_id=2966019

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

On Wed, 16 Jun 2004 16:11:45 -0600, rw
wrote:

The most elegant solution, if you want a loop connection for your
leader, is a whipped loop. It's easy to tie. You'll need a razor blade,
thread, a bobbin, and some head cement.

I used to do all my lines that way, now I use a braided loop but I
whip finish where the sleeve would go and coat the thread with
Aquaseal.
--
Charlie...

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

Ken Fortenberry wrote:
....I've seen
braided loops pull off and a fly line will break long before
a well tied nail knot will fail.

Sandy Birrell wrote:
I've used both but I use the braided loop exclusively now. The only time I
have had one fail is when it goes hard, it doesn't do it's chinese finger
compresion, after it has been on the line for a few years. ...

Ken:
If it's the loop you're after I'd recommend a nail knot and a
small perfection loop instead of a braided loop and super glue.

I agree.
I tried braided loops a few years back, but quit trusting them when one came
off while I was cleaning the line.

Because I do find it convenient to have a loop at the end of the line, I
nail-knot a short section of .017" mono to the line, with a perfection loop
at the end.
Costs less than five cents, plus a little bit of my time, and will probably
outlast the fly line.

Besides, nail knots "build character."


--
Rusty Hook
Laramie, Wyoming

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

On 16 Jun 2004 13:35:31 -0700, (Skip Summer)
wrote:

Planning on using some mono to connect flyline
to leader, using a nail knot. What pound test
mono should I use? 4 weight flyline.
This rod will be used for bluegills.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Skip

Are you "dapping" (not exactly true "dapping," as in the UK, etc., with
floss and long rods, but actually similar in technique, with shorter
rods and, as shown below, sometimes, er, lax standards about the
proprieties...) or truly casting? If dapping, forget the leader, get
some 6, 8, or pushing it, even 10 pound test Spiderwire. If you're
truly casting, get something around 15-20, use with the leader, and
you'll either have it for other reels, or for playing around with the
dapping. And it doesn't HAVE to be Spiderwire - that's what we get -
but get something of similar diameter/characteristics.

Heck, one cousin just drags some from the handiest light (non-fly) reel,
and goes after it. Doesn't work very well, though - they only got about
100 last weekend...some folks have tried and tried to tell him about
such haphazard fishing procedures at after-fish get-togethers...he just
thanks them, and goes back to eating his fried fish and watching the
scaler turn...

HTH,
R

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

None of the below. Its the result of actual mechanical testing.

I think that's both bad advice and misinformation. I've seen
braided loops pull off and a fly line will break long before
a well tied nail knot will fail.

If it's the loop you're after I'd recommend a nail knot and a
small perfection loop instead of a braided loop and super glue.

--
Ken Fortenberry

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

Svend Tang-Petersen wrote:

None of the below. Its the result of actual mechanical testing.

There are "mechanical tests" that prove a braided loop is a
stronger connection than a nail knot ?

That doesn't jibe with my experience but I'd be interested
to read the actual study.

--
Ken Fortenberry

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

Our club does a knots and leader seminar once or twice a year. Its held
by a retired NASA
mechanical engineer who brings along a stress testing device. (Imagine a
big spring you can
attach your line too. As you pull on the line the spring expands and
pushes an indicator along a
scale measuring basically force applied (spring: F=k*expansion). When
the knot/line breaks
the indicator stays at the max expansion so you can read at what force
the line broke). He has tested all
sorts of knots, leader systems, leader materials (some have less
breaking strength if you spit on the
leader when you thighten the knot) etc..

I think the nailknot breaks at 80% of line strength, where as a properly
done braid is close to 100%.
The man problem with the nailknot is that it basically strips off the
coating of your flyline. If you think
about a nailknot only grips your flyline over a length of roughly 1/12
inch, but a braid is usually 2.5 - 3
inches long so its gripping the flyline over a significantly larger
area. Its weak point it the loop, and if
your braids slip they weren't done properly.

He (Bill Nash)has a nice little booklet showing various line system and
knot strengths and did an in-class test that was very illustrative using
a standart line and leader setup as is usually recommended but the line
manufacturers.

He does a lot of striper fishing which is what got him into the testing.
Ill see if I can get a copy of his
booklet for you. (mail my with your address).

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

Ken Fortenberry wrote:
Svend Tang-Petersen wrote:

None of the below. Its the result of actual mechanical testing.


There are "mechanical tests" that prove a braided loop is a
stronger connection than a nail knot ?

That doesn't jibe with my experience but I'd be interested
to read the actual study.

The question is moot. Even a poorly tied nail knot or braided loop or
perfection loop in heavy mono will be far stronger than the tippet,
unless you're doing something very wrong.

I dislike loop-to-loop connections whenever delicacy of presentation is
an issue. For sal****er fishing, steelhead fishing, shooting heads, etc.
they can be handy, but I still think being able to tie on a butt section
with a nail knot, and a leader to that with a blood knot, is the best
combination.

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

http://hometown.aol.com/billsknots/

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

yes and no. If you are using 4pound tippet and a knot that is only 80% your
tippet strength is effectively
3.6 pounds. So tying proper knots will allow you to use thinner materials
and thus a more delicate
presentation.



The question is moot. Even a poorly tied nail knot or braided loop or
perfection loop in heavy mono will be far stronger than the tippet,
unless you're doing something very wrong.

I dislike loop-to-loop connections whenever delicacy of presentation is
an issue. For sal****er fishing, steelhead fishing, shooting heads, etc.
they can be handy, but I still think being able to tie on a butt section
with a nail knot, and a leader to that with a blood knot, is the best
combination.

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

Svend Tang-Petersen wrote:

http://hometown.aol.com/billsknots/


Nice link. Thanks, Svend.

--
Ken Fortenberry

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

Svend Tang-Petersen wrote:

yes and no. If you are using 4pound tippet and a knot that is only 80% your
tippet strength is effectively
3.6 pounds. So tying proper knots will allow you to use thinner materials
and thus a more delicate
presentation.

I entirely agree that good knots are important, but I thought we were
talking about flyline/leader connections, where the breaking tension is
maybe 50 pounds. If you use an 80% knot, you're down to 40 pounds, and
your 4-pound tippet is still an order of magnitude weaker.

I prefer a flyline/leader connection that slips easily through the
guides, presents the least possible wind resistance, turns over the
leader, and lands quietly on the water. If I want to change leaders,
which I very rarely do, I can tie a blood knot to the butt section about
as fast as I can change a loop-to-loop connection.

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

"Skip Summer" wrote in message
om...
Planning on using some mono to connect flyline
to leader, using a nail knot. What pound test
mono should I use? 4 weight flyline.
This rod will be used for bluegills.
Thanks in advance for the help.

The # test you will be using is irrelevant, you want the diameter of the
mono attached to the fly line to be 2/3 rd's of the diameter of the fly
line. .

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

Sure, but you can apply the argument backwards:

If your fly breaks off you use a better knot. The next thing that gives is you
bloodknot (if you make your own leaders), so you improve that. Ultimately what
you want is a leader system where things break at the
strenght they are supposed to and not at 50-60% of that. Off course at some
point you have improved each
section such that the thing that breaks is your tippet, without having to
improve the butt and line connection.

As long as you know how your leader is designed and that it does what you
wanted, then fine.

Wrt the leader/line connection the nailknot is between 70-80% of leader butt
strength, but
the braid is 100%.

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

This is getting off the original topic a bit, but --

Do you find that having a loop connection decreases your ability to
turnover the leader? I have troubles turning over my leader, at
times, probably because I'm still working on my casting. I'd heard
that loop-to-loop can cause some difficulty in that area, and for that
reason I've just stuck with the nail knot. But, if all y'all experts
use loop-to-loops, I'd be happy to do so myself, as it seems a lot
easier.

(Um, that brings up one more question: do you just attach your leaders
with the loop the manufacturer has already tied at the end, or do you
tie a better one?)


Because I do find it convenient to have a loop at the end of the line, I
nail-knot a short section of .017" mono to the line, with a perfection loop
at the end.
Costs less than five cents, plus a little bit of my time, and will probably
outlast the fly line.

Besides, nail knots "build character."

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

"Tim G" wrote in message
om...
This is getting off the original topic a bit, but --

Do you find that having a loop connection decreases your ability to
turnover the leader? I have troubles turning over my leader, at
times, probably because I'm still working on my casting. I'd heard
that loop-to-loop can cause some difficulty in that area, and for that
reason I've just stuck with the nail knot. But, if all y'all experts
use loop-to-loops, I'd be happy to do so myself, as it seems a lot
easier.

(Um, that brings up one more question: do you just attach your leaders
with the loop the manufacturer has already tied at the end, or do you
tie a better one?)

I use a "nail-less" nail knot. Easy to tie, and works well. I went away from
the loop-to-loop connections a number of years ago, for the very reason you
mention. As far I am concerned, the fewer knots, bumps, loops, connections,
and monofilament hangnails the better.

The leaders I use don't have a loop on the end.

Tim Lysyk

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

"Ken Fortenberry" wrote:
I think that's both bad advice and misinformation. I've seen
braided loops pull off and a fly line will break long before
a well tied nail knot will fail.

I agree. I have never had a nail knot fail, and properly tied, you
won't even feel it going through the guides.
On *most* new fly lines, I use a nail knot to tie on a butt section
of red Amnesia mono (I think it's about 25 lb test). I use a barrel knot to
tie the leader to the Amnesia; so whenever I need to tie on a new leader,
the butt section (and not the fly line) loses a half inch.

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

Hi skip,

The old rule of thumb was to have the butt section 2/3 the diameter of the
end of the fly line.

Another approach is to have the butt section at least the same diameter of
the large end of your knotless tapered leader.

I think that a 7 1/2' 2x leader would be fine.

Usually the larger pound test knotless tapered leaders have a larger butt
diameter for turning over bigger flies..

--
Bill Kiene

Kiene's Fly Shop
Sacramento, CA, USA

Web site: www.kiene.com


"Skip Summer" wrote in message
om...

Planning on using some mono to connect flyline
to leader, using a nail knot. What pound test
mono should I use? 4 weight flyline.
This rod will be used for bluegills.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Skip

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

On Wed, 16 Jun 2004 19:18:24 -0600, rw
wrote:

I prefer a flyline/leader connection that slips easily through the
guides, presents the least possible wind resistance, turns over the
leader, and lands quietly on the water.

I've found that loop to loop connections go through the guides
smoother than nail knots, and have not found any difference in turning
over the leader or quiet landing. I've never considered the wind
resistance issue.
--
Charlie...

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

"rw" wrote in message
m...

...I prefer a flyline/leader connection that slips easily through the
guides,

Leader link

presents the least possible wind resistance,

Leader link.

turns over the leader,

Leader link.

and lands quietly on the water.

Leader link.

If I want to change leaders...

Leader link.

Wolfgang
some debates, while easy enough to follow, are nevertheless impossible to
understand.

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

"Svend Tang-Petersen" wrote in message
...
Our club does a knots and leader seminar once or twice a year. Its held
by a retired NASA
mechanical engineer who brings along a stress testing device. (Imagine a
big spring you can
attach your line too. As you pull on the line the spring expands and
pushes an indicator along a
scale measuring basically force applied (spring: F=k*expansion). When
the knot/line breaks
the indicator stays at the max expansion so you can read at what force
the line broke). He has tested all
sorts of knots, leader systems, leader materials (some have less
breaking strength if you spit on the
leader when you thighten the knot) etc..


How did the "no knot" eyelets fair in these tests, if they were tested. I
used these for years without
problems. Of course my main quarry was panfish and such when I was a kid. I
am just now getting
back into flyfishing after a 20 year absence.

lou

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

"Lou W" wrote in message
news:HthAc.1340$5t2.450@fed1read01...

"Svend Tang-Petersen" wrote in message
...
Our club does a knots and leader seminar once or twice a year. Its
held
by a retired NASA
mechanical engineer who brings along a stress testing device.
(Imagine a
big spring you can
attach your line too. As you pull on the line the spring expands
and
pushes an indicator along a
scale measuring basically force applied (spring: F=k*expansion).
When
the knot/line breaks
the indicator stays at the max expansion so you can read at what
force
the line broke). He has tested all
sorts of knots, leader systems, leader materials (some have less
breaking strength if you spit on the
leader when you thighten the knot) etc..


How did the "no knot" eyelets fair in these tests, if they were
tested. I
used these for years without
problems. Of course my main quarry was panfish and such when I was a
kid. I
am just now getting
back into flyfishing after a 20 year absence.

Don't know about any formal tests done with them, but there are a
several problems. In the first place, they are a bit of a pain in the
ass to get into the end of the fly line. They are made of
steel.....that makes them heavy. As small as they are, they will sink
the end of the fly line. You still have to knot the leader to the
eye. This necessarily means the leader is tied to a surface
perpendicular to its own length.....a more or less perfect hinge.
Being made of steel, they WILL rust. This results in a pitted surface
that saws through the leader knot pretty efficiently as it hinges.
They rely on barbs, much like those on hooks, to remain fastened to
the line. The barbs have fairly sharp edges which eventually cut the
line.

I've tried them myself and know a number of others who have also. I
don't know anyone who has used them for long.

Wolfgang

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

Wolfgang wrote:
"rw" wrote in message
m...


...I prefer a flyline/leader connection that slips easily through the
guides,


Leader link

I like Leader Links as well, but I have had them break before. I've only
had them break on one side to I didn't lose my leader or fly but it did
require me to replace the Leader Link.

Russell

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

"Russell" wrote in message
...
Wolfgang wrote:
"rw" wrote in message
m...


...I prefer a flyline/leader connection that slips easily through
the
guides,


Leader link

I like Leader Links as well, but I have had them break before. I've
only
had them break on one side to I didn't lose my leader or fly but it
did
require me to replace the Leader Link.

We've seen several reports of breakage here over the last few years.
Like you, I've had one break on one side, but never completely. I
fished the half broken one for several weeks before replacing it. I
don't remember for sure, but I suspect this one was very old. I've
got three or four reels strung up with various lines for my 7 wt. All
of the lines and leader links on these are at least ten years old. No
problems.

Wolfgang

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

http://www.flyanglersonline.com/

SA has a new L2L system on the market. I will be part of a field test
group. If you're interested, contact me offlist.

--
Stev Lenon 91B20 '68-'69
Drowning flies to Dark Star

http://web.tampabay.rr.com/stevglo/i...age92kword.htm

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

I have to admit I have never considered a Leader Link. I think Ernie
Harrison uses them and I found this article that seemed pretty informative:

http://www.hotspotfishing.com/public...s/fish-254.asp

Chris 'padishar creel' Fanning


"Wolfgang" wrote in message
...

"rw" wrote in message
m...

...I prefer a flyline/leader connection that slips easily through the
guides,

Leader link

presents the least possible wind resistance,

Leader link.

turns over the leader,

Leader link.

and lands quietly on the water.

Leader link.

If I want to change leaders...

Leader link.

Wolfgang
some debates, while easy enough to follow, are nevertheless impossible to
understand.

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

"Padishar Creel" wrote in message
...
I have to admit I have never considered a Leader Link.

Try it. You'll like it.

Wolfgang

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

Padishar Creel wrote:
I have to admit I have never considered a Leader Link. I think Ernie
Harrison uses them and I found this article that seemed pretty informative:

I use them, too, and I think they work well, but I'm not dogmatic about
them. A nail knot works just as well. A needle knot is even better.

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

Wolfgang wrote:

["no-knot" eyelets]

Don't know about any formal tests done with them, but there are a
several problems. In the first place, they are a bit of a pain in the
ass to get into the end of the fly line. They are made of
steel.....that makes them heavy. As small as they are, they will sink
the end of the fly line. You still have to knot the leader to the
eye. This necessarily means the leader is tied to a surface
perpendicular to its own length.....a more or less perfect hinge.
Being made of steel, they WILL rust. This results in a pitted surface
that saws through the leader knot pretty efficiently as it hinges.
They rely on barbs, much like those on hooks, to remain fastened to
the line. The barbs have fairly sharp edges which eventually cut the
line.

I've tried them myself and know a number of others who have also. I
don't know anyone who has used them for long.

I remember when I first started flyfishing back in the early 80's, I
tried them thinking that it would be nice to be able to avoid tying
nailknots, etc. (funny how things never really change). They were
horrible. Worst of all was the hinging you describe above, as the knot
would swivel at the tie-point with each false cast. And I don't know if
it was just my lack of knot-tying skills, but I remember it simply being
a pain to knot the leader to the eye.

When I picked up the sport again I found a few of them sitting at
the bottom of a box with my old tackle. Even twenty years later the
image of trying to use the things was fresh.

Since getting back into it again, I mostly played around with
nailknots and loop-to-loop connections, but after reading various
threads about leader links, I finally decided to give them a try. And
frankly, I haven't had any problems with them whatsoever, as long as I
make sure to test the knots for slippage after they are inserted in the
links. I assume they have a somewhat limited life and could distort or
crack over time, but it's easy enough to replace them every so often to
avoid that.

I know it's not considered the "proper" connection by some, but
aside from aesthetics, I can't really think of any reason not to use
them. I'll use a nailknot for attaching backing to line, but now I
rarely bother with it for line to leader connections.


Chuck Vance (just call me lazy)

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

Charlie Wilson wrote:

"Ken Fortenberry" wrote:

I think that's both bad advice and misinformation. I've seen
braided loops pull off and a fly line will break long before
a well tied nail knot will fail.


I agree. I have never had a nail knot fail, and properly tied, you
won't even feel it going through the guides.
On *most* new fly lines, I use a nail knot to tie on a butt section
of red Amnesia mono (I think it's about 25 lb test). I use a barrel knot to
tie the leader to the Amnesia; so whenever I need to tie on a new leader,
the butt section (and not the fly line) loses a half inch.



That's what I do too (except for the red Amnesia). The butts section
lasts at least a season even with alot of fishing.

Willi

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

Granted Skip is talking about a 4 weight and the braided loop is probably
fine for that application, personally not my preference.

If you are fishing for pike, steelhead, salmon, large species, I would
suggest a nail knot connection... I know of a couple guys that fish pike
allot and they went away from the braided loop after having pike jerk the
loop off the fly line.

I tried the braided loop when they came out and found the end of a floating
line will sink. ymmv.

JT

There are two kinds of materials used for braids. The one commonly sold will
sink, but there's also a
floating version.

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

"Svend Tang-Petersen" wrote in message
...



Granted Skip is talking about a 4 weight and the braided loop is
probably
fine for that application, personally not my preference.

If you are fishing for pike, steelhead, salmon, large species, I would
suggest a nail knot connection... I know of a couple guys that fish pike
allot and they went away from the braided loop after having pike jerk
the
loop off the fly line.

I tried the braided loop when they came out and found the end of a
floating
line will sink. ymmv.

JT

There are two kinds of materials used for braids. The one commonly sold
will
sink, but there's also a
floating version.


The only braided loops that I have used are the braided loops that came with
the Cortland fly lines I have used. Last year I purchased a floating 444
(peach, my favorite) and I can't remember if it came with a loop or not, so
I don't know if they still send the loops with their lines? However, the
floating Lazer Lines that I bought in the previous years had them and I had
trouble with the tip of my Lazers sinking... I figured, Cortland would send
the floating version with a floating line... Do you know if the loops sent
with a floating Cortland Series fly line are the floating version?

I must have a 1/2 dozen of them in my leader pouch, not sure why I have hung
on to them?

JT

Flyline/Leader Connection Question
 

All of the sal****er fishermen that I have had contact with use the braided
loop with two nail knots close together towards the top of the braid. The
braid below the lowest knot will hold like a chinese finger puzzle. This is
important in lines that do not crush. Most trout lines are made using a
woven core that is hollow and wil crush when a knot is drawn tight. the
woven core does a great job of holding the plastic /PVC in place. Many
sal****er lines are now made with a woven core that is not hollow or a mono
solid core that will not crush. Neither is great at holding the plastic/PVC
in place. IF you use a single nail knot and a mono loop, there is the
possiblility that a large fish will just strip off all of the plastic/PVC
below the knot.

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"Skip Summer" wrote in message
om...
Planning on using some mono to connect flyline
to leader, using a nail knot. What pound test
mono should I use? 4 weight flyline.
This rod will be used for bluegills.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Skip