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Montana TR- George's Busy Day
Thursday dawned and the depressing thought occurred to me that the
West Big Rock had given up the same number of trout to me as the fingers on my left hand. And the total number of inches of any one of those West Boulder trout failed to accede the total number of fingers on both hands. I ate a quick breakfast of steak and potatoes and headed upstream from the cabin. Forest Service land runs for approximately half a mile along the river near the cabin. It is bracketed by private property on both ends, the West Big Rock River Association on the downstream, northern end and the land of the Burnt Leather Ranch upstream. Montana access law gives the public use of the river up to the average high water mark. By August the river is bordered by gravel and rock beaches for much of its length, so, in theory, even the most private of riverfronts can be accessed by the Great Unwashed. There was a wide run above the cabin, mostly ankle to calf deep. Mid run was a small pine tree that died and was down. Its roots were still on the bank with its top stuck out into the stream. As I approached it a saw a small rise. The Bivisible I had on disappeared in a swirl and soon a small brown was having its picture taken. At the head of the run a small set of rapids curved beneath a high gravel bank. Another rise and another small brown was caught and freed. Rounding the bend I saw the river continue upward through a long set of shallow rapids. I fished my way up it, casting to likely spots. Other than putting down another bankside riser mid run I didn't see evidence of another fish. I was skunked. At the top of the run was a private bridge. By the time I made it to the pool below the bridge there were small grayish yellow mayflies coming off. There was also a feeding fish in the bridge's shadow. http://fishskicanoe.tripod.com/geopics/IMG_0011a.jpg Small West Big Rock Brown I had gone through several fly changes and had just tied on a #16 standard hackle Adams. Like most of my friends I've gravitated to Parachute Adamses over the years but I still have a few of the traditional ties in my boxes. My first few casts under the bridge went unmarked. Getting a good drift was hard in the swirl of currents that flowed between the buttresses. Finally my gray fly was engulfed in a good sized swirl. I tightened and a fish bulldogged upstream. I turned it and forced it down through the end of the pool to my feet. A quick swipe and a 13 inch cutthroat lay enmeshed at my feet. I was going to snap a quick pic when I glanced up and saw another rise under the bridge. I quickly let the cutt go, unphotoed, and stroked another cast under the bridge. The fly was hit by the trout going away, self hooking, pulling line from the reel. In an instant it reached the opposite bridge piling and jumped completely clear of the water. It ran back to the other side of the bridge pool and jumped again. And suddenly I was overcome with the absolute need to land this fish. http://fishskicanoe.tripod.com/geopics/IMG_0012a.jpg Bridge I can get pretty blase about landing the fish I hook. If one shakes the hook or gets tangled in weeds and escapes I am usually the height of philosophical detachment. But not this time. As the fish ran back and forth before me and then past me, down toward the faster water below, I felt my chest tighten in the anxiety of possibly losing this trout. But I didn't. After a few more runs I netted him and got a chance to look him over. He lay in the green mesh of my net, orange spots splattered across his flanks, growing larger near the tail. Trying to estimate his size afterwords from the width of my palm (3 3/4") I think he went an honest 14 inches probably more like 15. Not a huge brown by Montana standards I suppose. But mighty big by G. Cleveland's standards, there in the fourth day of the stay on the West Big Rock. http://fishskicanoe.tripod.com/geopics/IMG_0017a.jpg Deeply Desired Brown I snapped a handful of pictures, then let him go. I fished my way back to the cabin, swinging soft hackles through the green water with nary a nudge. Again I was struck at what a strange piece of water this was. I assumed the fish were there. But why wouldn't they take on standard techniques that worked fine in Wisconsin and worked fine in the next drainage over on the main stem of the river? After lunch we discovered that the supply of coffee was running dangerously low. For most this would be an inconvenience but the the Cleveland adults this was catastrophic. A run down to Big Timber was arranged. Jacci would go with Mason in search of coffee and a cell phone signal while I would be dropped off at the fishermen's access just up from McLeod. The long driveway into the access point was bordered by brown grass. But the banks of the river below were green with willow and cottonwood. After Jacci dropped me off with a promise to return in two hours I surveyed the scene. Just down the slope the river flowed through a rapids punctuated with large, car sized boulders. Across the flow from me was a guy just clambering up the bank. I assumed he was the owner of the car with the Washington state plates parked a few feet away. So I hiked up the driveway toward the highway and then cut across a field and small marsh in order to hit the river far above him. The Big Rock here was big. Not Yellowstone big but at least 3 times the flow that VT and I had fished on the day before. Unfortunately it was also warm. I had dropped my thermometer a few days before while rock hopping the West Big Rock. Its digital guts had disappeared deep into the crevices of the bankside boulders. But I estimated the water here had to be approaching 70 degrees. Conveniently shunting my ethics aside (after all browns and bows are more heat tolerant, aren't they) I decided to fish it anyway. I cast and then cast some more. I fished pockets, inky black holes, deep water runs flowing under grassy banks, shallow, riffly runs and still pools. I changed flies. Madam Xs gave way to Prince nymphs to scuds to hoppers to Elk Hair Caddis and back to Madam Xs. I failed to move a single fish. I failed to see a single fish. When my two hours were up I waded downstream toward the parking lot. The Washingtonian was climbing the bank to his car. Out of the corner of my eye, just downstream from one of the bigger boulders I thought I saw a rise. I cast the caddis I had tied on my leader and then skated it upstream. The small rainbow, fat and cool, took it and then shot off when I released it from its metal bond. I heard a horn beep and turned to see Jacci on the bank above me. She patiently watched as I tried to duplicate my meager feat for her appreciation. No dice. Reeling up, I crab walked my way across the rapids with aid from my aluminum wading staff. There wasn't much to say. She had coffee from the IGA in a brown bag and had contacted our 20 year old son Sam who was working up in Ely for the summer. We drove back up the gravel to the cabin. There was still light in the sky when we got in past the cabin's locked gate. I told Jacci that I wanted to try a few casts and went down through the lower campground. I still had my waders on but only took a small box of flies and my forceps tucked into and clamped on my nylon fishing shirt. I entered the water and immediately saw a tiny riseform, again next to a fallen tree trunk. I still had the caddis on my line and cast up toward the fish. A slash and I had a nice brown dancing at the end of my line. It ran about 13 inches or so. A little farther upstream I saw another rise alongside another tree. Wading quietly up I cast the caddis toward the fish. And wrapped the leader around one of the stubs sticking out from the trunk. I few attempts to pull it free showed that it was an exercise in futility to try and free it. Meanwhile the fish kept rising. I popped the leader and tried to tie a Parachute on in the fast fading light but the hackling job I had done with it blocked the flexible 5x tippet from going through the hook eye. Looking in the box I grabbed a white winged something that had a well exposed eye. Holding it up against the fading twilit sky I threaded it on, tied it off, doped it up and cast it out. The first float went past the trunk untouched. The second float was past the point where the fish had risen before but before I could recast the fly disappeared in a bluegill like smack. Again the fish hooked itself, making an immediate run after it took the fly. It thrashed and then jumped in the near darkness, then tried to run under the trunk that had been its shelter. I snubbed it and soon had it to hand. It draped over my hand, slab-like, at least as big as the brown of that morning. I worked the fly free (afterwords finding out that I had committed the no-no of applying floatant to a CDC bodied caddis) and the fish swam off. By now the short dusk had ended and it was seriously dark. I splashed my way upstream, again sans bear spray. So instead I sang little snatches of bear repellent songs with lyrics the like of "Oh Mr. Bear, here I am, don't eat me." They seemed to work. At the cabin, the lights were gleaming through the windows. Jacci was sitting on the porch and the dogs greeted me enthusiastically. A long day over and only one more full day at the cabin on the West Big Rock. |
Montana TR- George's Busy Day
Great continuing TR
Thanks very much Fred -- Fred Lebow "George Cleveland" wrote in message ... Thursday dawned and the depressing thought occurred to me that the West Big Rock had given up the same number of trout to me as the fingers on my left hand. And the total number of inches of any one of those West Boulder trout failed to accede the total number of fingers on both hands. I ate a quick breakfast of steak and potatoes and headed upstream from the cabin. Forest Service land runs for approximately half a mile along the river near the cabin. It is bracketed by private property on both ends, the West Big Rock River Association on the downstream, northern end and the land of the Burnt Leather Ranch upstream. Montana access law gives the public use of the river up to the average high water mark. By August the river is bordered by gravel and rock beaches for much of its length, so, in theory, even the most private of riverfronts can be accessed by the Great Unwashed. There was a wide run above the cabin, mostly ankle to calf deep. Mid run was a small pine tree that died and was down. Its roots were still on the bank with its top stuck out into the stream. As I approached it a saw a small rise. The Bivisible I had on disappeared in a swirl and soon a small brown was having its picture taken. At the head of the run a small set of rapids curved beneath a high gravel bank. Another rise and another small brown was caught and freed. Rounding the bend I saw the river continue upward through a long set of shallow rapids. I fished my way up it, casting to likely spots. Other than putting down another bankside riser mid run I didn't see evidence of another fish. I was skunked. At the top of the run was a private bridge. By the time I made it to the pool below the bridge there were small grayish yellow mayflies coming off. There was also a feeding fish in the bridge's shadow. http://fishskicanoe.tripod.com/geopics/IMG_0011a.jpg Small West Big Rock Brown I had gone through several fly changes and had just tied on a #16 standard hackle Adams. Like most of my friends I've gravitated to Parachute Adamses over the years but I still have a few of the traditional ties in my boxes. My first few casts under the bridge went unmarked. Getting a good drift was hard in the swirl of currents that flowed between the buttresses. Finally my gray fly was engulfed in a good sized swirl. I tightened and a fish bulldogged upstream. I turned it and forced it down through the end of the pool to my feet. A quick swipe and a 13 inch cutthroat lay enmeshed at my feet. I was going to snap a quick pic when I glanced up and saw another rise under the bridge. I quickly let the cutt go, unphotoed, and stroked another cast under the bridge. The fly was hit by the trout going away, self hooking, pulling line from the reel. In an instant it reached the opposite bridge piling and jumped completely clear of the water. It ran back to the other side of the bridge pool and jumped again. And suddenly I was overcome with the absolute need to land this fish. http://fishskicanoe.tripod.com/geopics/IMG_0012a.jpg Bridge I can get pretty blase about landing the fish I hook. If one shakes the hook or gets tangled in weeds and escapes I am usually the height of philosophical detachment. But not this time. As the fish ran back and forth before me and then past me, down toward the faster water below, I felt my chest tighten in the anxiety of possibly losing this trout. But I didn't. After a few more runs I netted him and got a chance to look him over. He lay in the green mesh of my net, orange spots splattered across his flanks, growing larger near the tail. Trying to estimate his size afterwords from the width of my palm (3 3/4") I think he went an honest 14 inches probably more like 15. Not a huge brown by Montana standards I suppose. But mighty big by G. Cleveland's standards, there in the fourth day of the stay on the West Big Rock. http://fishskicanoe.tripod.com/geopics/IMG_0017a.jpg Deeply Desired Brown I snapped a handful of pictures, then let him go. I fished my way back to the cabin, swinging soft hackles through the green water with nary a nudge. Again I was struck at what a strange piece of water this was. I assumed the fish were there. But why wouldn't they take on standard techniques that worked fine in Wisconsin and worked fine in the next drainage over on the main stem of the river? After lunch we discovered that the supply of coffee was running dangerously low. For most this would be an inconvenience but the the Cleveland adults this was catastrophic. A run down to Big Timber was arranged. Jacci would go with Mason in search of coffee and a cell phone signal while I would be dropped off at the fishermen's access just up from McLeod. The long driveway into the access point was bordered by brown grass. But the banks of the river below were green with willow and cottonwood. After Jacci dropped me off with a promise to return in two hours I surveyed the scene. Just down the slope the river flowed through a rapids punctuated with large, car sized boulders. Across the flow from me was a guy just clambering up the bank. I assumed he was the owner of the car with the Washington state plates parked a few feet away. So I hiked up the driveway toward the highway and then cut across a field and small marsh in order to hit the river far above him. The Big Rock here was big. Not Yellowstone big but at least 3 times the flow that VT and I had fished on the day before. Unfortunately it was also warm. I had dropped my thermometer a few days before while rock hopping the West Big Rock. Its digital guts had disappeared deep into the crevices of the bankside boulders. But I estimated the water here had to be approaching 70 degrees. Conveniently shunting my ethics aside (after all browns and bows are more heat tolerant, aren't they) I decided to fish it anyway. I cast and then cast some more. I fished pockets, inky black holes, deep water runs flowing under grassy banks, shallow, riffly runs and still pools. I changed flies. Madam Xs gave way to Prince nymphs to scuds to hoppers to Elk Hair Caddis and back to Madam Xs. I failed to move a single fish. I failed to see a single fish. When my two hours were up I waded downstream toward the parking lot. The Washingtonian was climbing the bank to his car. Out of the corner of my eye, just downstream from one of the bigger boulders I thought I saw a rise. I cast the caddis I had tied on my leader and then skated it upstream. The small rainbow, fat and cool, took it and then shot off when I released it from its metal bond. I heard a horn beep and turned to see Jacci on the bank above me. She patiently watched as I tried to duplicate my meager feat for her appreciation. No dice. Reeling up, I crab walked my way across the rapids with aid from my aluminum wading staff. There wasn't much to say. She had coffee from the IGA in a brown bag and had contacted our 20 year old son Sam who was working up in Ely for the summer. We drove back up the gravel to the cabin. There was still light in the sky when we got in past the cabin's locked gate. I told Jacci that I wanted to try a few casts and went down through the lower campground. I still had my waders on but only took a small box of flies and my forceps tucked into and clamped on my nylon fishing shirt. I entered the water and immediately saw a tiny riseform, again next to a fallen tree trunk. I still had the caddis on my line and cast up toward the fish. A slash and I had a nice brown dancing at the end of my line. It ran about 13 inches or so. A little farther upstream I saw another rise alongside another tree. Wading quietly up I cast the caddis toward the fish. And wrapped the leader around one of the stubs sticking out from the trunk. I few attempts to pull it free showed that it was an exercise in futility to try and free it. Meanwhile the fish kept rising. I popped the leader and tried to tie a Parachute on in the fast fading light but the hackling job I had done with it blocked the flexible 5x tippet from going through the hook eye. Looking in the box I grabbed a white winged something that had a well exposed eye. Holding it up against the fading twilit sky I threaded it on, tied it off, doped it up and cast it out. The first float went past the trunk untouched. The second float was past the point where the fish had risen before but before I could recast the fly disappeared in a bluegill like smack. Again the fish hooked itself, making an immediate run after it took the fly. It thrashed and then jumped in the near darkness, then tried to run under the trunk that had been its shelter. I snubbed it and soon had it to hand. It draped over my hand, slab-like, at least as big as the brown of that morning. I worked the fly free (afterwords finding out that I had committed the no-no of applying floatant to a CDC bodied caddis) and the fish swam off. By now the short dusk had ended and it was seriously dark. I splashed my way upstream, again sans bear spray. So instead I sang little snatches of bear repellent songs with lyrics the like of "Oh Mr. Bear, here I am, don't eat me." They seemed to work. At the cabin, the lights were gleaming through the windows. Jacci was sitting on the porch and the dogs greeted me enthusiastically. A long day over and only one more full day at the cabin on the West Big Rock. |
Montana TR- George's Busy Day
"George Cleveland" wrote... snip At the cabin, the lights were gleaming through the windows. Jacci was sitting on the porch and the dogs greeted me enthusiastically. A long day over and only one more full day at the cabin on the West Big Rock. You, sir, need to take such trips with greater frequency. Your TRs are simply wonderful. Thanks for sharing. Dan |
Montana TR- George's Busy Day
Great story, George, it enthralled us all. Maybe, especially me.
Living in south central MT my entire life, I have spent 33 of my life's 33 summers fishing and exploring the Bo....oops...Big Rock River valley. It was fantastic to hear another's adventures, and, in fact, I'm headed up there this coming weekend. I certainly hope you make this trip again, and if you do, I have gobs of advice/tips/bestspots etc., if interested. One thing struck me as humorous, though. Those of us who know and love the...Big Rock, consider the West Big Rock to be the "Forsyth" of the Big Rock Drainage. Delapidated. OK, at least barren compared to the most beautiful place on earth, the main flow. Only the first handful of miles have these vacation establishments you wrote about....the higher 40 miles or so past Natural Bridge are about as wild as you can get, aside from primitive campsites, a few one room cabins, and a church camp. This is where i suggest you need to be to see the most amazing beauty and best trout fishing the lower 48 has to offer. I assume you rented one of the Forest Service cabins. There is one on the Main BR that is smack dab in the middle of some of the best trout fishing in the world, and even better, noone that rents it knows because they, like most, don't know where to go once they're there. "A River Runs Through It" was partially filmed here, along with a few other stretches across MT. Most people that camp on this stretch think the fishing is good, but they actually have no clue as to the goldmine they are on because they don't know where to go. Locals, too, have no clue. And we're not talking about 2 hour hikes from camp. I'd love to tell you more if you ever plan on making another trip. But I have a far better place, a fish every cast kinda place, with scenery that blows the barrens of the WB away. I know you had a great time, but you were maybe 30 miles away from easy access, 20 minute walk from camp, mind-blowing action. And as an added bonus, almost all bears here are black bears, not griz. Well, unless you go further up. By the way, Brokaw and Keaton do have places on the WB, thats where most of the private land is. As for whether or not you saw their SUV's, well, there are probably 50 high end SUV's per square mile in MT, and gobs of Hummers. Maybe, maybe not. But hey, when you took the trip to Natural Bridge, you passed Brooke Shields' place. Take your pick. As I said, however, the further past Natural Bridge you go.....no more of that crap. I'd love to talk to you about this area. Actually, I'd love to give you pointers, then read your great stories about it. You do a fantastic job of taking us all with you. |
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