DT question
 

Perhaps a stupid question, but I've been wondering...

Do any of you use DT lines with your heavier gear, say above 6wt, when
fishing in *flowing* water (not stillwater)? Why do you or don't you?

--
Jarmo Hurri

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DT question
 

Double taper lines are suitable in all weights and for all occasions. They
roll cast, mend well and you can turn them around when you wear one end out.
Some other type lines are a little better for distance casting.
Ernie

"Jarmo Hurri" wrote in message
...

Perhaps a stupid question, but I've been wondering...

Do any of you use DT lines with your heavier gear, say above 6wt, when
fishing in *flowing* water (not stillwater)? Why do you or don't you?

--
Jarmo Hurri

Spam countermeasures included. Drop your brain when replying, or just
use .

DT question
 

My original question was very short, so let me elaborate a bit.

1. Practically everyone I know uses some sort of WF lines (or shooting
heads) in heavier gear.

2. The two rod manufacturers that I've checked (Sage, Winston)
recommend WF lines in heavier gear, either explicitly or
implicitly.

3. The DT versions of Scientific Anglers Mastery lines (GPS, XPS) are
not even available in weights over 6. They do have some 7 and 8
weight cheaper DT lines.

Personally I'm a DT fan, and I have a DT line even in my 10wt. On the
other hand, I can't cast very well with it... :-)

--
Jarmo Hurri

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DT question
 

Jarmo Hurri wrote:
My original question was very short, so let me elaborate a bit.

1. Practically everyone I know uses some sort of WF lines (or shooting
heads) in heavier gear.

2. The two rod manufacturers that I've checked (Sage, Winston)
recommend WF lines in heavier gear, either explicitly or
implicitly.

3. The DT versions of Scientific Anglers Mastery lines (GPS, XPS) are
not even available in weights over 6. They do have some 7 and 8
weight cheaper DT lines.

Personally I'm a DT fan, and I have a DT line even in my 10wt. On the
other hand, I can't cast very well with it... :-)


I use WF lines or shooting heads on rods heavier than 5wt.

Ernie is right in his points about better roll casting, mending (*** see
below), and economy with DT lines, but for the heavier weights I come
down on the side of distance casting (usually into the wind).

*** If you're mending more than the belly of a WF line you're doing some
EXTREME mending. :-)

--
Cut "to the chase" for my email address.

DT question
 

On 28 Oct 2003 19:34:42 +0200, Jarmo Hurri
wrote:


My original question was very short, so let me elaborate a bit.

1. Practically everyone I know uses some sort of WF lines (or shooting
heads) in heavier gear.

2. The two rod manufacturers that I've checked (Sage, Winston)
recommend WF lines in heavier gear, either explicitly or
implicitly.

3. The DT versions of Scientific Anglers Mastery lines (GPS, XPS) are
not even available in weights over 6. They do have some 7 and 8
weight cheaper DT lines.

Personally I'm a DT fan, and I have a DT line even in my 10wt. On the
other hand, I can't cast very well with it... :-)


I like DTs for trout but in the heavier weights, I'm usually
interested in distance so it's strictly WF. Evem my spey lines are
WF. A DT won't shoot well if you need the distance.


Peter

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DT question
 

On 28 Oct 2003 19:34:42 +0200, Jarmo Hurri wrote:


My original question was very short, so let me elaborate a bit.

1. Practically everyone I know uses some sort of WF lines (or shooting
heads) in heavier gear.

2. The two rod manufacturers that I've checked (Sage, Winston)
recommend WF lines in heavier gear, either explicitly or
implicitly.

3. The DT versions of Scientific Anglers Mastery lines (GPS, XPS) are
not even available in weights over 6. They do have some 7 and 8
weight cheaper DT lines.

Personally I'm a DT fan, and I have a DT line even in my 10wt. On the
other hand, I can't cast very well with it... :-)

1. Me, too.
2. Marketing. They're selling the Distance = Satisfaction paradigm.
3. Heavier rods and forward-biased lines for bigger water. Pretty much a
truism where I get to fish.

My 5 weights are the most-used rods, and I have both DTF and WFF lines plus a
uniform super-sinker.

For my 4's, 3's and 2's, the lines are all DTF's.
For my 7's, 8's and 9's, the lines are all WFF or WFS types, from so-called
"Bass" tapers to also-so-called "Big Game" tapers (basically, increasingly
forward biased).

So I fit the marketing model pretty well...

/daytripper (Clearly an easy mark for the rod companies ;-)

DT question
 

"Ernie" wrote in message
om...
Double taper lines are suitable in all weights and for all occasions. They
roll cast, mend well and you can turn them around when you wear one end
out.
Some other type lines are a little better for distance casting.
Ernie


That's definately the traditional statement about them, but I've heard that,
in reality, DT lines are dinosaurs. Silk lines were expensive, and used to
get waterlogged, so DTs were used so you could reverse the line and have an
economical dry, waxed end. But modern lines have a different wear pattern:
the tips wear, but you can trim that part off back to the flare. The rest of
the body wears so slowly that by the time you need to reverse the line, you
probably have bought several replacements already. And all that time you
were waiting to make use of the reversibility of the line, the thick body of
the the DT line just made for more heavy line to toss around, and that
you're better off just cutting the end off your DTs for shooting heads.

Is this wrong?

--riverman

DT question
 

Double taper lines are suitable in all weights and for all
occasions. They roll cast, mend well and you can turn them around
when you wear one end out.

riverman That's definately the traditional statement about them, but
riverman I've heard that, in reality, DT lines are dinosaurs. Silk
riverman lines were expensive, and used to get waterlogged, so DTs
riverman were used so you could reverse the line and have an
riverman economical dry, waxed end. But modern lines have a different
riverman wear pattern: the tips wear, but you can trim that part off
riverman back to the flare. The rest of the body wears so slowly that
riverman by the time you need to reverse the line, you probably have
riverman bought several replacements already.

Some people say that WF lines tend to wear at the spot where the thick
part ends. (I think Mike also made that statement in the Baltic
clave.) That makes sense, if we assume that modern lines really do
wear from casting (I have no first hand experience on that).

riverman And all that time you were waiting to make use of the
riverman reversibility of the line, the thick body of the the DT line
riverman just made for more heavy line to toss around, and that
riverman you're better off just cutting the end off your DTs for
riverman shooting heads.

In that statement, I guess you're assuming that you want to shoot
line. Because that's when the thick body is a disadvantage. Otherwise
it's an advantage: if you want to roll cast, spey cast, make long
overhead casts (without shooting line), or mend line, you need the
thick body to transfer the energy all the way down the line. In
addition, when you've got more than 30-40 feet of line out, the thick
body makes it possible to load the rod to the fullest. Assuming that
the rod can take it.

For example, with two handed rods, it is possible to make _very_ long
spey casts with a DT line. I've done it, although unfortunately can't
do it consistently :-). Such casts make fishing in large rivers really
enjoyable, because you don't have to retrieve the running line between
the casts, as you would have to do with a WF line.

In addition, I think that making long casts without shooting line is
one of the most beautiful things in fly-fishing. :-)

--
Jarmo Hurri

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DT question
 

Jarmo Hurri wrote:
... parts snipped ...
In addition, I think that making long casts without shooting line is
one of the most beautiful things in fly-fishing. :-)

Right you are Jarmo. When you get the hang of it the feel is as good
as the looks. When lake fishing to rising trout it's really nice to be
able to start a small roll, pick up 70 feet of line, make one backcast
and redirect the fly 90 degrees to another rising fish before he's left
the area.

Chas
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