Bob,
Very good questions. I'll do my best.
First, there is a good article on chine walk at www.kencook.com

Now for the real deal.
You don't drive "out" of a walk.
You drive to prevent the walk from starting, because once it has, it's too
late, the beast has won.

Simple reason for it happening, you have a force (prop torque) trying to
sling everything to the right. You have a balance point (boats pad) that
you want to stay on. The boat wants to go straight, the prop wants to do
something different. So you are attempting to balance a 1,800 lb weight on
a edge. While your fat cousin is pushing you off.

Balancing load, proper prop and motor height will all affect how quick it
happens, but by no means will it totally prevent it from happening.

I can show you much easier than I can describe what you should do. If you
are experiencing this on your boat and just can't get the hang of it, find
someone who has experience to show you on the lake.

In short, you balance your boat by a continuous left turn, with small right
adjustments. Easiest way to get the feel is to go out and find a nice open
part of the lake, get the beast on plane and start to go. As you increase
speed and come up with the trim, hold the boat in a sweeping left turn, this
should prevent the boat from starting it's walk rythm.

Slow increases and bumping the trim back down if it starts to get out of
hand and then back will go a long way to giving you the confidence of
handling your boat.

After a while, you'll get to the point where you actually can't make the
boat do it, because you've trained yourself to keep it from happening.

Bottom line, take control, don't let it control you.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
Hey Pat... How about a post that describes chine walk and how to handle
it
for the FAQ? My Skeeter didn't go fast enough to worry about it, and my
tunnel hull will not chine walk at all for obvious design reasons, but am
familiar with the concept, and my did's old Hydro Sport would start to
chine
walk at about 65 mph. With two people in the boat it would run out to 70
before you had to start walking it to keep it upright.

Maybe touch on load balance to minimize walk. Look at options like trim
tabs and describe why they will or won't work or how they are a pain
because
they catch on stuff when backing out of a bunch of weeds or tulies while
fishing. A mention of good hydraulic steering to help with steering force
and response time if you use the wheel walk method to hold it centered.
That method by the way always made me wonder if there was a better way to
drive through chine walk.

I was always curious about the Skeeter extended hull design at the transom
and wondered if it made a difference in chine walk like it helps with hole
shot and level running at lower speeds.



--
** Public Fishing and Boating Forums
** www.YumaBassMan.com


"Pat Goff @yahoo.com" pmgoffjrbot wrote in message
...
Like Warren Said...
That boat is a true handful, and you better make sure you have at least
two
full hours of chine walk instruction.

Seriously.

"go-bassn" wrote in message
news
Lordy Doc, be careful. That's a whole lotta boat for your first
"real"
bassboat...

That said, the E-Tec rocks...

Warren

"Doc (The Tin Boat King)" wrote in message
...
I'm in the planning stages of what to get for my new boat. The
dealer
seems to push the new E-Tec Evinrude. Anyone no of any real
world experience or is this just to new? A 250 on a Triton
TR21XD.
Bill P.