On 7 Mar 2006 14:47:54 -0800, "Erratic Grouse"
wrote:

Hello,

I recently purchased my first fly rod, a 5wt 4 piece. Now I need to
find a reasonably priced reel to go with it. Most of my fishing will be
for trout on small to medium sized streams in the Pacific Northwest.
There will also be the occasional lake and pond fishing for trout and
bass.

My questions a

1.) What is a good reel for a college student on very limited budget?
I'd like to keep the price of the reel under $50. I see alot of
pflueger reels priced inexpensively($30). I've also seen A redington
in my price range. I plan on upgrading at some point, so I can have a
back up rod or one for friends to use. My main concern is to be able to
some serious fishing from now until winter.

"Pflueger" covers a lot of ground. If you are talking a older, US-made
Medalist, it is a great reel in context (and as the first reel for a
beginner with a graphite rod, it probably isn't the appropriate
context). If you are talking about the newer Chinese-made Medalist
(such as can be had at Wal-Mart, etc.), it is an economy choice - you'll
get about what you've paid for: a 22.95USD reel (and yep, for some, a
wise, practical choice). If you are talking about Supremes, Trions, and
Presidents, you are talking about a different class than either. You
are also talking about more than $50.

Based on the fishing description you've given up to the use of the words
"serious fishing," the reel won't play the largest role - define
"serious fishing" please.

2) Do I need a large arbor reel?

No. No one _needs_ one. And again, in context, given the fishing
you've broadly indicated, you'd probably never notice having one. Here's
why: a large arbor, even empty, has a exponentially larger diameter
than a smaller arbor. On the first turn loading the backing, the large
arbor will load much more than the small arbor. OTOH, on the last turn
loading the line, the difference will be solely confined to and by the
reel's spool diameter (or internal diameter, if the spool is not readily
interchangeable) - let's call it "maximum capacity" diameter. Note that
this has nothing to do with the arbor's diameter or the overall diameter
of the reel. If the diameter of the line and backing on the reel is
3.35", the size of the arbor under it all is not material to the
calculation on a fully-loaded reel with one turn out. Assuming you have
two reels of the same "maximum capacity" diameter, one large- and one
"small"-arbor, that are fully loaded (NOT equally-loaded) with identical
backing and lines, and you strip 20' feet of line from each, the
retrieval speed will be about the same, regardless of the arbor
diameter. If, OTOH, you strip all the line and half the backing from
both, the amount retrieved on each turn will be a great deal different.
Here's a hint: the lines are the same length - how long is the backing?

Would you mind explaining what that is?

It has been explained, at least in terms of its physical description. As
to its (practical) advantages, see above. Basically, if your fishing
will be with 40-50 ft. or less of total line and tippet out, there are
none such as to make buying a large-arbor reel based upon it being a
large arbor a practical choice. Large arbors can be helpful when there
is a lot of line out - where the quarry is known for long runs - and a
quicker retrieve is desired . For example, bonefishing.

3) I've read that a good quality line is more important than the reel,
is this true?

In some cases, yours almost certainly being one of them, yes. In the
aforementioned bonefishing, no.

What would be a good line?

IMO, it's Impossible to even offer suggestions based on the info you've
provided thus far. What rod do you have? What is your goal with this
setup? Are you _sure_ about your fishing as outlined above - IOW,
again, define "most," "occasional," and "serious fishing." And how
large is the expected quarry as opposed to the water? I've seen some
pretty big bass in what looked like (or actually were) some pretty small
lakes/ponds.

I can probably drop another 40-50 bucks on this.

Maybe two cheaper lines would be better than a single line...maybe
not...see above.

4) Which type of line would you reccomend? Weight Forward or a double
taper.

Again, see above.

HTH,
R