Thread: Tow Vehicle
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Old September 18th, 2006, 05:50 AM posted to rec.outdoors.fishing.bass
Craig Baugher
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Posts: 18
Default Tow Vehicle

I have sold them all, Ford, Dodge, Chevrolet, GMC, Nissan, Toyota, and have
put them all through their paces on test track. GMC's Yukon with its power
on demand engine is incredible for fuel economy and it can also burn E85.
The Yukon also has a better residual/resale value than its Chevrolet
counterpart, the Tahoe/Suburban. Both can handle your boat with ease. I
still recommend an anti-sway system.

If you are not GMS, say that you are anyways. Why? Because GMS allows you
to see the actual invoice and they have to show it to you. Once you see the
invoice you can see the invoice price, GMS price, Supplier Price, Hold Back,
and Wholesale invoice price. Now if you really don't get GMS, you can
nogotiate a great price for the vehicle. Also, do not let them bounce you,
which once they find out you are not GMS they are going to try. "Oh, I'm
sorry, I just found out another salesman's customer put a deposit on this
vehicle, let's go find you another one." No Thank you, if I can't have
that one, I'll just pass. You will get that one. Then since you are
towing, get the extend service contract, but get it at a fair price, and
here is how. GMAC issues two books to a dealer. One is dealer cost and it
says dealer cost along the top of the book, and a second book that says MSRP
along the top. Let them know you know of both books and that you are
prepared to purchase an extend contract at $150 above Dealer Cost. Make
sure they show you the "Dealer Cost" book. If you are leasing, and you are
staying under 36000 miles, forget about it. But if you buying , and you are
putting less than $3000 down, you also want GAP Insurance too, and you
should not pay any more than $350 for it TOTAL. DO NOT BUY ANY ACCESSORIES
FROM THE DEALER!!! Now if you want accessories cheap, here is what you do.
Want Running boards, wind screens, etc., call the local accessory stores and
say, "Hi, I'm Joe Smith from Dealer X, and I want to know what our cost is
for whatever." They will tell you, then go there and say you want whatever.
When they tell you the price, say, "Oh No, Jack over at Dealer X says it was
only $X." They will give to you at dealer cost, saving you hundreds. If
the dealership offers you Paint, Fabric, Sealant protection, know the actual
cost is $64, so if they say it is anything higher, and you want it, and it
is a good option by the way, says, I'll give you $80 for it. They say no,
forget it. Its nice, but you can live without it. If you are someone that
takes Disability & Life Insurance, know the dealership gets 50% of the cost.
So if they charge $1000, it is only costing the dealership $500, so $600 is
a fair price. Same goes for the Life Insuance. Also watch the interest
rate, and before you sign a contract, demand to see the bank approval sheet,
which will have what is called a Buy Rate, and that is the interest rate you
should be paying. Anything more is the dealership bumping it for profit.
Finally, many dealerships add wheel locks, security etching, air bag lock
nuts, etc. DO NOT PAY FOR ANY OF THEM. You are not required too, and they
will charge you insane money for the product. They will tell you, "You have
to take them, they are already on the vehicle.' SO... TAKE THEM OFF! or
Give them to me for FREE!!!

ONE MORE THING. DO NOT BUY A VEHICLE FOR TOWING THAT DOES NOT HAVE A
FACTORY INSTALLED TOWING PACKAGE (which includes a High Volume Air Intake
and Air filter, Trans Cooler, Oil Cooler, Bigger Radiator, 100Amp Alt, and
bigger shocks). If you buy a hitch after the fact, you are only getting the
hitch, and you need all of it to properly tow you boat!!!)

Well, that you prepare you to get your best deal, regardless of what vehicle
you choose to buy.
--
Craig Baugher