On Mar 19, 2:05 pm, (Steve Thomas) wrote:
How many feet of flyline should be tied on to your backing?

Thanks,

Steve Thomas

That depends heavily on how many feet of fly-line you need, and what
you want to do with it. Most people buy a ready made fly-line, either
a WF ( weight forward, badly misnamed, which is basically a shooting
head, normally about thirty feet long attached to integrated running
line), or a DT ( Double taper ). The "standard" fly-line length is
ninety feet. Some people cut this in half, or even other
configurations, to match the rod, suit a particular purpose, get more
backing on the reel, or a combination of all these things.

There are now a large number of variations and deviations from the
standards in fly-lines.

Most versatile of all systems is a shooting head system. The following
may be of use to you;

What is a "shooting head"? What can I do with it? Do I really need
one?

Basically a shooting head is just a piece of line of a certain length
and weight, designed to carry out a specific task.

Although shooting heads are widely considered to be pure distance
tools, this is not at all the case. Of course they are excellent
distance tools, but when correctly set up, they can be used for a
whole host of things. The abbreviation used for shooting heads is
"ST". For instance, a ready made head might be designated ST#7F. This
translates to "Shooting Taper, AFTM #7, Floater.

The AFTMA, American Fishing Tackle Manufacturers Association, which is
now the ASA, American Sportfishing Association, originally defined
some standards for fly lines. These standards were based on the first
thirty feet of any given line, ( excluding any level tip, if present),
and have been in use for a long time now.

The "taper" on most shooting heads is the same as the taper on the
front of a DT on standard heads, but there are in the meantime a great
many "special" tapers available.

Of course one may buy shooting heads "ready-made", including those
with special tapers, but these will practically never match either the
rod, or your preferences.

How do I get one suited to my particular purposes then?

First of all, one has to determine what those purposes might be.

It is as well to know how these things are defined, and the
nomenclature in use.

A shooting head is basically any piece of line other than a full line,
which is joined to shooting line by a knot or similar. That is to say,
any line where the shooting line is not "integrated" at manufacture.

Any line with a head and running line section which are seamlessly
integrated, may be referred to as Weight Forward ( WF) fly line.
Rocket Tapers, Bass Bug Tapers, Sal****er Tapers, Steelhead Tapers,
Triangle Tapers and Teeny Tapers are all weight Forward Fly Lines. The
integrated shooting line, is in this case referred to as "running
line".

Assume we wanted a head for pure distance casting, then we must find a
piece of line which suits our rod and other preferences exactly. As
this particular type of casting is more suited to the competition and
tournament fields, we will leave this for the moment, and move on to
more practical considerations. Suffice it to say here, that the
shooting head for distance is irrevocably linked to the double haul,
which was first introduced to competition casting by Marvin Hedge at
the 1934 Nationals in St. Louis.

We will first take a look at a specific practical use for shooting
heads, namely, fly fishing in sal****er.

As a shooting head rarely even enters the rod-rings during this type
of fishing, it does not have to be of any extreme quality. One may use
mill end DT´s and cut them as desired. This is cheap and easy.

How does one decide what weight line to use in the first place?

As a rough guide, here is a table, for roughly matching fly-sizes to
lines;

The larger the number ( up to size 1/0) the smaller the hook. Above
1/0 the
larger the number, the larger the hook.

Line Weight Fly size
3 28 -12
4 up to 10
5 up to 8
6 up to 6
7 up to 4
8 12 - 1/0
9 up to 2/0
10 up to 3/0
11 up to 4/0
12 up to 6/0

There is a lot of overlap, and heavy ( weighted) or bulky flies will
require a heavier line than indicated in the table. There is a lot of
nonsense talked about "weightless" flies etc. Here again, there is no
such animal. The larger the fly the heavier it is. Bulky flies also
have more air resistance and need heavier lines to carry them.

Double hauling will increase the weight of fly which can be carried,
as it generates more line speed. A shooting head will carry the most
weight in any given range.

This is the AFTM line rating table. It is the only set of standards in
existence for fly-fishing tackle. There are no others. The figures
given are for the first thirty feet of a DT line, including the taper,
but excluding the level tip, ( if present).

AFTM In grains In grams In ounces
3 100 +/- 6 6.48 0.228
4 120 +/- 6 7.78 0.274
5 140 +/- 6 9.07 0.32
6 160 +/- 8 10.42 0.366
7 185 +/- 8 11.99 0.422
8 210 +/- 8 13.61 0.48
9 240 +/- 10 15.55 0.55
10 280 +/- 10 18.14 0.64
11 330 +/- 12 21.38 0.75
12 380 +/- 12 24.62 0.86

It will be seen that 30 feet of #12 line weighs 0.86 ounces. (Most of
my #12 sal****er and pike fishing heads weigh a full ounce, as they
are slightly longer than thirty feet).

Once again, as a rough guide, most #6 rated rods, will cast a full
ounce without difficulty.

A one ounce weight will carry a relatively heavy fly a long way.

Unfortunately, most people do not grasp the basics of fly-casting or
gear matching from the start. Often as a result of misinformation.

In order to be succesful you must match your gear to the task at hand.
The only way to do this, is to decide what you are going to fish for,
where you are going to do it, under what circumstances, and WITH WHICH
FLIES!!!!!

Once you know which flies ( in terms of size, weight etc), you need,
then you know what size line you need to carry them. Once you know
which line you need to carry them, you can choose a rod to suit the
line.

You may also use different lines on the same rod to suit particular
purposes, quite irrespective of what is marked on the butt.

This is what matching, or "balancing" gear means.

Assuming however, that you already have a rod you wish to use, most
people have, although, as stated, it is the wrong way to go about
things, then you need to find a "rough" match for it, so that you know
which weight line to buy.

Assume further that the AFTM rating on the rod is accurate. Assume the
rod has a rating of #8. This means that the rod will theoretically
cast optimally with thirty feet of #8 line outside the tip.

This is "NEVER" the case! Most rods will cast much heavier weights
than they are rated for, as they must usually be capable of casting a
whole DT!

This means that this particular rod will cast ninety feet of #8 line!
Ninety feet of #8 line weighs 630 grains!!! Or 1.44 oz!

As a general rule, and a matter of experience, the optimum casting
weight for such a rod usually lies at about two thirds of this weight
= ~ 400 grains which is about an ounce.


We only wish to cast thirty feet or so of line. So we need to look at
line that will give us something like this weight for thirty feet.

Thirty feet of #12 line weighs 380 grains (+/- 12 grains tolerance).
So in this case, I would simply put a #12 DT on the rod, and casting
normally, without hauling etc, slowly extend line, until I found the
optimum weight and length, and then cut this at the rod tip. This line
will be about thirty feet long, depending how accurate the line
tolerances are, and the rod rating. That was it! Quite simple really.
Just attach this "head" to shooting backing, and you have a perfectly
matched head.

Furthermore, if you weigh this head, you know exactly what weight of
floater this rod will cast perfectly. IRRESPECTIVE OF ITS LENGTH!!!
( Within limits of course). If you want better more delicate
presentation, choose a longer length of line with the same weight.
Some casters prefer longer heads, up to 45 feet, or even more. But
these can have disadvantages for sal****er fishing, and less than
perfect casters.

If you wish to use intermediate or sinking lines, the principle is the
same, but take more care when casting the DT. Sinking and intermediate
lines of the same weight, travel a lot faster than floaters, as a
result of their lesser diameter, and greater density, this loads the
rod more. You will almost certainly find that an intermediate line
about one line rating lower than the floater will be about optimal,
and a high density sinker about two ratings lower will be optimal.

There are numerous advantages to such heads. You always cast the same
length and weight of line, and this is easier. They are cheap! You get
at least two heads out of a standard DT. They take up less room on the
reel. They can be used in pretty tight conditions. You can loop on
whatever head you wish to use in a very short time. I carry my heads
loosely coiled in a "CD" wallet.

Of course you can use WF lines, which basically are just shooting
heads spliced to running line, "integrated" heads, which are more or
less the same, or even full DT lines. But if you are serious about
sal****er fishing, with relatively "conventional" fly-gear, then there
is no real alternative to a well matched set of shooting heads.

There is however a great deal more to be learned from the above simple
set of facts.

We have only covered one particular specific use for a shooting head.
We know that a head will carry a great deal more weight than a
conventional line which matches the rod. This is simply because it is
shorter, and of course heavier.

There is no reason we can not use these facts to help us with other
angling problems. One can for instance use a shooting head to cast
much heavier or bulkier flies than the usual rod and line combination
will allow.

We can for instance use a piece of #6 or even heavier line on a #3
weight rod, as long as the weight matches, thus allowing us to cast
relatively heavy flies with very light gear.

A little thought on the matter will show you numerous ways in which a
head can help you with practical fishing problems. There are a number
of solutions to various problems, using heads..

TL
MC