On Jun 8, 6:31 pm, "Robert11" wrote:
Hi,

After many years, getting back into bass fishing again.
Still consider myself a real amateur, though.

Use light weight spinning gear; bass around here aren't too big
(unfortunately).

I notice on my spinning reel that I have some line that I probably put on
about 5 years ago, or so.
Still seems to be in good shape.

It's Not monofilament, it's a black, thin, thread type.
If I remember right, and I might be wrong, I think it was call Fireline.

Sure is slippery, and seems to zoom thru the guides just fine.

Questions:

- If I tie it directly to a lure, do bass notice the black color as compared
to clear monofilament ?

I cut my bassin teeth in 1959 using exclusively braided line. It was
the only line our family used until around 1978 when mono line
improved enough to cast as far as braided line and held up fairly
well. I've caught my share of bass on braided line, especially since
it was so greatly improved recently. In the old days it cut the rod
guides terribly because it got dirty and stayed dirty. I don't believe
bass care so much about line visibility until the bass is around 8# in
size and too wise to get away with that. If a bass is hungry it is
likely to get a bait before noticing the line. Most bites come from
behind, the line ahead of the bait, The big exception is in heavy
vegetation where any braid fits in and appears to be just another
strand of hydrilla. Braid has become essential in such places. It cuts
through hydrilla up to the ability of the rod. That all applies to
baits being cranked.

Let's move to drop shotting in clear water. A bass gets a long look at
the bait and line from several angles, in which case braid will fail
you. I use a fluorocarbon leader on mono for sloped drop shotting (at
an angle away from the boat), and all fluorocarbon line for vertical
drop shotting. It's highly sensitive and sinks well to hang straight
in up to a mile or two per hour current.

- Should I replace it with monofilament, in your opinion ?

Braid works very well on spinning rods. The line you have is too old
to keep, though. I replace braid once a year.
If you are used to the braid and like it, stick with it. You can
always tie clear mono or fluorocarbon leaders on it.

- Do most of you flolks use a barrel swivel between the end and the lure to
prevent line twisting, or usually
not really needed ?

Spinning rods guarantee built-in line twist, but there are ways to
reduce it. Using a high quality swivel is one. I avoid using snap
swivels because the snap is an extra possible point of failure. It's
best to tie directly and often, at least once every 10# of fish. Be
sure to use the "braid knot".

Just out of curiosity: other than personal preference, I guess, what are
the rules of thumb for when a spinning outfit is more appropriate, compared
to a bait casting outfit, and vice versa ?

Bob, I use spinning gear for casting light lures (3/8 oz) or for
casting heavier lures very long distances like to a breaking school
way out of reach of a baitcaster using the same lure. Anything heavier
gets tied on a baitcaster if there is somewhat heavy vegetation or
wood around. You get more cranking power with the baitcaster and for
me, better accuracy on long casts. The drag system is almost always
superior to a spinning reel, more consistent and always adjustable
with a fish on the line. Some spinning reels have the drag on the
handle end and can be adjusted mid fight, but I find those awkward.
I'm talking larger potential bass. In your case a spinning rig ought
to be just fine since you won't be working a heavy hard swimming bass
and you can get by well with small lures.

Jim