On Tue, 21 Aug 2007 15:05:25 -0400, "BobS" wrote:
"briansfly" wrote in message
news:jmnyi.5152$ze.748@trnddc07...
BobS wrote:
Been wanting to get a spinning rod/reel outfit as a backup for when the
wind is just to much for my fly casting abilities. Picked up a Shimano,
Stradic 1000FH (2#-6#) at Bass Pro since they had a wee bit of a sale
going on. Now I want to get a multi-piece rod that breaks down so each
section is under 31" - the size of my carry-on rod/reel case. Orvis has
a spinning rod with case ( SI8157-53-65 ) plus a model that comes with
two butt sections (fly/spin) that are priced in the $140 to $160 range.
St. Croix doesn't appear to have a rod in the mid-price range that will
break down that small. Even a 6' two piece rod will be to long (36"). I
looked at a Browning 3 piece (which Bass Pro now owns) and just wasn't
crazy about the feel as compared to a St. Croix one piece rod they had.
Most spinning rods I looked at had a long grip behind the reel seat (not
the St. Croix though) making the rod look like a mini two-handed spey
rod. For what reason do you need a two hand grip on light gear like
this? Felt weird.....and although the rod and reel balanced nicely
(right in front of the reel seat), it just did not feel right for some
reason.
Any recommendations?
Thanks,
Bob S.
You might try Temple Fork Outfitters:
http://www.templeforkflyrods.com/conventional/
brians
brians,
Outstanding idea! Although I didn't even think of Temple Fork as having
spinning rods - they certainly do. There are several choices for the
Ultra-Light to Med-Light rods that fit my criteria nicely. My inclination
is to go with the TFS663ML (4-10#, 6'6", 3 piece) which "appears" to be a
good match with the reel (2-6#) but yet will allow for a little larger reel
later perhaps if needed.
Thanks for the suggestion,
Bob S.
I can't remember who was asking about rod building, but a look around
for one the post-WW2 Japanese bamboo combo rods might be an idea. They
weren't particularly good rods and hardware and wrapping was usually
(but not always) pretty garish crap, but they are often fishable
(blanks) and often available for well under $100USD - yeah, some
"antique" dealers try to hawk them for more because "that's a BAMBOO!!!!
fly rod!!!" but I'd not pay more than $50 or so for one in very good
condition. Redo with some decent HW and wrapping, and they often make
an OK travel "beater-'boo," so to speak.
And a quick history lesson on these...first and foremost, NONE are
valuable, particularly good, or worth more than about $100, tops. You
often see them in sectioned boxes with a POS (no, not a "KPOS," a true
POS - think of a poorly made 50-plus year old $15 Martin) fly reel and
sometimes an equally-magnificent spinning reel, some flies - well, shed
feathers tyed to a catfish hook with sewing thread, line - the left-over
sewing thread, lures - well, more shed feathers and a hook glued to a
painted stick, etc., and surprisingly (or not...) often, all but unused.
They were mostly made as another way to separate armed forces folks from
their script during the occupation, to take advantage of the FFing
trend/"boom" of the period (hint, hint...). No established FFing
equipment dealers, AFAIK, ever sold them. Some are over-priced at
"free."
Folks with the slightest bit of experience can spot most of them with
only a mere glance at a single section from 50 feet away as they are
most often finished with what looks like paperclips quasi-twisted into
snakes and ferrules and a reel seat that looks as if it were made out of
a beer can by a gangsta pimp wannabe (_BRIGHT_ chrome everything and
day-glo wraps) with a ball peen hammer and a pair of Kleins...I've seen
guides on these things I'd not run a decent line through _once_.
OTOH, I've seen and handled quite a few in which the blank would make a
usable-enough fishing tool, and I've redone a couple as a lark that
once, um, "de-crapped," would surprise quite a few folks. I've also
seen some that had fair-ish hardware and less-garish wrapping that were
little more than tomato stakes. If such interests you, I'd advise
buying based on the blank alone, only buying what you can see, hold, and
assemble - IOW, no eBay'ing on these, and if the blank has the slightest
damage or if the strip glue even looks slightly iffy, I'd pass.
TC,
R