On 5 Sep, 14:59, Pete wrote:
Gorilla Glue tends to expand as it cures, it could distort or break an
old ferrule.

Traditional "Ferrule Cement" (the kind you melt), gets brittle. Use for
emergency temporary repairs in the field.

I'd go along with Mike's recommendation of a 2-part epoxy.

--
Pete

The gentleman is correct. Two-part epoxy is the safest option here.
This is in any case only "semi-permanent", as relatively mild heat
will also break epoxy bonds if desired. This is no problem on a cane
rod. Take care when removing the ferrule, as many of these rods had
pinned ferrules. A pin through the rod, and riveted into the ferrule
at either side. If it has a pin, see below. *

If it has no pin, remove the whippings, and work the ferrule slowly
loose. Remove all old glue by scarping with a blade held
perpendicular to the surfaces. Clean all surfaces thoroughly with
alcohol or similar,before gluing. I would go for twenty minute epoxy
here. Mix very thoroughly, smear the surfaces smoothly but
completely. Join as desired, ensuring that no excess epoxy squeezes
into the ferrule itself. Allow to set at least overnight, preferably
in a warm place like an airing cupboard or similar, ( this increases
epoxy bond strength). Although such epoxy sets up fairly quickly,
final bond strength is only reached after some time.

* If it has a pin, this of course must be removed. The simplest way
to do this is to file the head off one side, and carefully drive the
pin through. It is not necessary to replace the pin, as epoxy gives a
strong enough bond to prevent the ferrule moving much. Suction
ferrules on cane rods MUST ON NO ACCOUNT BE TWISTED WHEN dismantling
etc. Just pulled straight apart! one may use solder to fill the pin
holes in the ferrule.

Twisting rod sections will damage the rod.

Treat the male ferrule occasionally with white paraffin ( candle)
wax.

TL
MC