"Mike" wrote in message
...
On 27 Nov, 08:02, Mike wrote:


A couple of other points of note if you want to experiment with this.
After you cut the line, seal the end with an appropriate waterproof
glue.

This rig allows greater control for several reasons. The line can be
mended right to the tip. The line IS EQUALLY BUOYANT right to the tip.
This means that your fly is fishing immediately below the tip of the
line. With a tapered line, the tip is less buoyant, and usually pulled
under by heavy rigs. This means that an indeterminate amount of fly
line is below the surface, and out of your control. This also affects
precise depth presentation. With very heavy rigs, you may still need
a buoyant strike indicator to overcome this, even when using a buoyant
level line.

Precise depth presentations can be all important!

By mending, one can manoeuver the fly very close to undercut banks,
various obstructions etc, and still know exactly where the fly is.
This is more or less impossible when the front taper of the line has
sunk to some depth or other. Knowing exactly where your fly is can
save you a lot of snagging, still allow you to fish in difficult
places, and results in more and bigger fish.

TL
MC

Well Mike, I'll have to say, you figured it out.
I enjoyed reading what you wrote.

Yes, the idea of cutting the taper off (one side) DT line is partly for the
"buoyancy". You'll have to seal the end of the line indeed (common sense).
Also the mending control application, to send a "cast mend" right to the
beginning of the strike indicator, which is less drag on the drifting
nymphs. The idea is to get that drift right.

As I indicated with this rig, one is not throwing heavy dry-flies.
A taper is "not" needed.
It's a rig set-up specifically for drifting nymphs.

For me it's worth a try, if it doesn't work I can always reverse the DT line
and use the tapered side.
-tom