On Tue, 08 Apr 2008 23:08:06 GMT, "Larry L"
wrote:

Well, what thoughts and opinions did you form about DIY Patagonia
adventures? Any?

Easily done. Fly into Balmaceda, catch a cab into Coihaique and rent
a Chevy Luv pick-up (probably best reserved before the trip). There
are supermarkets in town, stocked with enough stuff to satisfy
anyone's diet. Booze, beer, and wine also. The fresh meat looks
terrible, but is very good. I was a little leery of it, but it is
very tasty and safe. The Chilean wine is especially good. Bring your
own coffee. South American coffee is "different" and you may not like
it. I know, I know, most of our good coffee comes from SA. Go
figure. While in the Navy, I spent time in Columbia, Peru, and Brazil
and never did get used to it.

Coihaique is a big town and has some good restaurants and cafes, plus
some inexpensive hotels. There is a little bakery in town that makes
the best epanada (spelling) I have ever had, excellent bread, and the
best "home made" donuts. You should be able to find everything you
need for an extended camping stay in country.

I did not see it but I understand there is a sports store in Coihaique
that is used by campers and trekkers. You will see people hitchhiking
and on bikes carrying backpacks. Trekking, I understand, is very
popular in Chile with the Europeans. If they have kayaks or canoes to
rent, definitely get one for use on ponds and lakes. Some of the best
fishing is in the Lagos and Lagoons (lakes and ponds). If you manage
to get a watercraft, fish the reed line. You'll know what I mean when
you see the lake or pond. You may be able to rent camping equipment
too. I haven't googled it, but I'm betting you can find something
online.

Head north out of town on Rt 7 and you will pass the Simpson River.
Farther on Rt 7 is the Moraleas River (with big fish that come to the
fly), and farther still is the Cisnese River (a right turn off of 7
onto a dirt road after Lago Los Torres). These streams have tribs
running into them which are also full of browns and rainbows. Access
is fairly easy. The people (farmers) who own the land will let you
drive through. Just remember to leave a gate as you find it. There
are a couple of suspension bridges over the Morales that will hold a
pick-up. They look shakey, but are very well made and anchored
properly. Once on the other side of the river, you can easily access
it either upstream or downstream. The river runs parallel to the
road.

Head south from Coihaique and there are more rivers and lakes. A map
of the country would include National Parks and the ones with a lake
on them sometimes have boats to rent. You can camp at the park, or at
designated spots (some private, some National). In addition there are
cabins for rent in most of the little towns/villages. Your main food
outlet will be Coihaique. The small villages you will find have only
a limited food selection. It may be enough, but nothing like the big
market in Coihaique. Spanish is most helpful. Not many of these good
folks speak English.

You could spend a couple of weeks exploring the Manuales River and its
tribs, and several weeks on the Cisnes. Both rivers are wadable and
easily accessed.


Flies?
Dec - March: Dragon Fly. These fish have been known to come out of
the water to take a dragon fly that is hovering while eating on
midges/gnats. No delicate presentation necessary: plop that fly on
the surface.

There are some mayfly and caddis hatches which also occur in early
summer (November/December). There was a BWO hatch that came off on
the Cisnes but I saw no fish rise for it. They did like the beetle,
however.

You *have* to mimic the giant beetle that lives in the trees on most
of the streams. The same beetle also exists as far north as Panama.
I can remember seeing it and scaring my kids with one. See the pix I
posted. A big giant "ugly" will work on many of the streams early in
the season.

Later in the season, black, green, or brown weighted woolybuggers cast
with a floating line will work just about anywhere. It was
unseasonably cold the week I was there, so there was a limited amount
of dry fly action.

The fish: Big and very spookable. I never took two fish out of the
same run. Take one and the rest are spooked. I felt that I was
hunting the fish, not fishing for them.

In the lakes and ponds, fish the reed line just as you would fishing
for bass. A fast sink tip is best. In the streams, fish the edges
under logs/bushes etc. If you come to a pool, fish the center of the
tailout. Some of the deeper holes you will encounter may require a
fast sink tip to get the fly down.

I saw some beautiful nymphing water and tried it with both floating
and sinking line. Nothing with a nymph. Put on a bugger and fished
it *as* a nymph and *bang*, I was into a fish.

Bottom line, Larry, a diy in Chile should be easy with proper and
early planning. Everything you need can be had in Coihaique. The
people are friendly and very helpful. A good spanish vocabulary would
be a plus, of course, but I think the average dumb
one-language-American could get by with an English/Spanish dictionary,
and a knowledge of some common phrases.

Do a diy, Larry, and I'll help you with a diy roff clave in 2010.
Gotta get back to that bakery........

Dave