On Apr 23, 2:19*pm, Giles wrote:
When Becky and I got our first chestnuts over a year ago all fourteen
of them were already sprouted.....in February. *This past autumn we
collected several hundred and immediately began stratification, the
process of refrigerating them to break dormancy. *We supposed that
they would begin to germinate and be ready to plant by mid to late
winter, just like those in our first batch. *February came and went,
and then so did March. *Nothing happened. *Worry.

But then, when I checked them again about a week ago, there were, at
last, lovely young roots protruding from many of the seeds despite the
fact that most of them were by now covered in a fairly nasty coating
of mildew and what I suspect is some sort of bacterial slime. *A
thorough washing brought them all back into good condition and they
were put back into the refrigerator in fresh sphagnum moss.

This morning I sorted and bagged those slated to be shipped out to a
few ROFFians who said they'd like to have them for planting on their
own properties. *They went out to the Waterford, Wisconsin post office
this afternoon and are slated to arrive at their new homes long about
Monday or Tuesday. *On arrival they should be planted as soon as
possible. *If they cannot be planted immediately, they should be kept
in the bags they were shipped in and refrigerated until planting. *The
bags also contain wet sphagnum. *If they must be stored, be sure to
keep the sphagnum very moist.....it may dry somewhat in transit.

Direct seeding is best as long as adequate water and protection from
rodents can be provided. *Otherwise, plant in a suitable container
(meaning just about anything that provides enough room for growth till
transplanting and is easy to get the seedling out of) and place in a
frost-free spot with lots of sunshine. *American chestnut is fairly
shade tolerant, but you might as well get it off to a good start with
all the sunshine it can get. *In either case, plant the seeds on their
sides.....the axis at which the root protrudes from the seed should be
horizontal.....and cover with about an inch of loose soil. *Chestnut
is not overly fastidious about soil type, drainage, etc., but the
seedlings, again, should be given every advantage. *Loosen the soil
for at least a few inches under the seed before planting and remove
any vegetative growth for at least a foot in diameter around it.

Chestnuts rank very high on the list of favorite foods among rodents
and other vermin. *The shoots and buds and bark are almost as alluring
as the nuts themselves. *The seeds and seedling MUST be given absolute
protection. *Quarter or half inch mesh hardware cloth (actually, woven
or welded wire, for the uninitiated) is best.....a cylinder about two
feet tall and a foot in diameter will suffice through the first year
of growth, and possibly the second as well. *However, keep a close eye
on them in the second year.....chestnut grows FAST! in good
conditions. *Planting inside a deer-proof fence is best, of course,
but not always practical. *Where deer are not a problem and there is
no appreciable snow, *plastic cones work well enough. *The cones are
typically about 18 inches tall and look like an upside-down ice cream
cone with the pointy end cut off, and have three wire prongs on the
wide end. *The wire prongs are simply pushed into the earth around the
seed/seedling. *These cones are translucent and will allow plenty of
light for the seedlings. *Avoid the long cylindrical plant
protectors......lots of problems associated with them. *Where snow
gets deep enough to cover the cones they are inadequate. *Mice and
voles tunnel through the snow or climb out above it and girdle the
seedlings. *Remember, the seedlings need to be protected for at least
two years.....probably more. *Consult local arborists, tree nurseries,
etc. for more detailed and locale specific recommendations.

American chestnut soes not self-pollinate and the wind-borne pollen
does not travel far. *Be sure to plant each seedling no more than a
hundred feet from another.....if you want viable seed. *Closer is
better. *The crown of a mature tree will likely be thirty to fifty
feet in diameter. *Planting 40 or so feet apart will ensure sufficient
room and greatly facilitate nut production. *Remember that even if you
are not interested in propagating more trees, American chestnuts are
delicious (vastly better, if also a lot smaller, than their European
and Asian cousins) and highly nutricious.....a bountiful annual crop
is not only beneficial to wildlife or domestic stock, it is also a
boon at the table. *Conversely, if you are not interested in eating
them, spreading the wealth will help to ensure the future of a highly
threatened species.

With respect to that last bit, be prepared to see your trees die. *If
they remain isolated, far enough and long enough, they will live to a
ripe old age.....I know of some that are fifty-five years old and
going strong, producing a stupefying crop of seeds annually (unlike
most nut tree species which only produce a bumper crop every few
years). *There are NO known blight resistant pure American chestnuts.
Those that survive long do so because no spore laden individuals have
visited them. *Brag about and show off your trees by all means, if you
wish, but remember that an unknown chestnut is a safe chestnut.
Isolation is the key to survival.....for now.

There's more.....lots more.....but I have to go make some venison
stroganoff right now. *Questions and comments, here or via email, are
most welcome.

giles.

Helpful stuff. Thanx
Dave