On Oct 28, 8:21*am, wrote:
On Thu, 28 Oct 2010 07:39:30 -0400, D. LaCourse wrote:
On 2010-10-28 01:35:02 -0400, " said:

*because I dropped it (and had to repair it with
a visegrip), and I lost the lock nut years ago. Sent it back recently.
$20 later it's like new. I feel like I'm ahead with Bernie and his
sons.

There are lots of good reels, and the really good ones are expensive.
Just make sure that you have an excellent drag and plenty of backing.
And you should have a backup rig.

I too have been happy with my Abels. *The one I use most (with my LT5)
I bought in 1995 or thereabouts. *I thought it was expensive at the
time, but it has excellent trouble-free service all these years.

My only backup rig would be a Sage XP 7 weight with a Lamson reel. *It
souds a little light but has served me well with big salmon and browns.
I'll have to check and make sure it holds enough backing.

The issue with bones isn't exactly "brute strength," it's the run and cast. *I'd
be more concerned with the ability to handle a screaming run than I would the
exact weight class of rod or reel, followed closely with the ability to cast a
fair piece of line into the wind (with a 7 or even a 6 - obviously a wispy 2
with a microreel won't cut it). *Now, if you plan on multi-species fishing
(permit, tarpon, marlin, etc.), you may well need a battery of rods, reels, and
terminal tackle, including some larger-weight gear (or tune your terminal tackle
to protect the gear, if, for example, you're after baby tarpon and get mom or
dad - not likely, but...). *Long story short, a 7 with which _you_ can handle
the casting duties, mated with a reel that will handle the run will be fine.
OTOH, an 8 that _you_ can't cast 20 feet is useless _to you_ as bonefish/flats
gear, as is a reel that either can't handle the run and/or takeup, or, beats the
highholy**** out of you when it does.

IAC, with bones, I put the run-handling slightly above the casting because it
won't help to be able to cast to 'em and then have them smoke the reel once you
hook up, but most rods can, even if with operator difficulty, cast at least far
enough. *And yet again, I'd suggest looking at a 'glass rod as a backup - you
could find a decent rod for under 200.00 (and if you roll yer own, probably well
under 100.00, no time value included). *As a starting point, look around for a
good used Lamiglas or similar, or hell, if you must, IIRC, Tom Morgan sells a 7
or 8 that might be a decent bonefishing rod (I don't know the specifics on it,
so ???). *At least it would be expensive...

One thing to keep in mind, ala the above - one thing with SW fishing that is
substantially different from fresh; the size of the "bait" often goes with the
size of the fish. *IOW, there is a wide variety of fish and size range therein
not found in most FW, and I've seen folks **** up trout (spec) class gear
messing around with things like cobia. *The cobia hookup being intentional -
they rigged up with a large fly that specs would have ignored, just as the cobia
would have ignored a small spec fly/lure/bait. *I've also seen folks manage to
land them on such, too, but they were very experienced and knew how to tend
their gear in such a situation.

HTH,
R





Dave- Hide quoted text -

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For folk w/ a few rods etc . . .
What about using some hearvir steelhead set ups for this fishing?
(Cobia bones etc) Opinions? How much backing? Any use for 2-handers? I
use a standard 8 weight for steelhead but I am fishing small rivers
and the "run" issue is "usually" linear. (Sounds like I catch lots/not
true but above is what Ive experienced myself). In the next week or
two plans are to fish the SE Wa. Steelhead/Brown opening on a lower
Snake trib like the Tucannon. I hear rumblings about good Sockeye runs
hereabouts but no details. Anyone up to speed on Ore/Wash/NorCal
coastals?

Dave