Swapping leaders
"M" wrote in message
...
I'm still new to fly fishing and for the moment I'm trying to keep things
simple. Can anyone help with some ideas to make changing leaders easier. I'm
finding it's easier not to, so I need a new approach.
I've been using tapered leaders which seem to be a great but I'm finding
that swapping flies quickly eats in to the taper and then it's time to tie
on a new leader. I've used a nail knot threaded into the fly line which I
really don't want to try to re-tie on the bank.
As an alternative approach, I've taken to tying a leader from three sections
of (untapered) line. Each section is progressively finer. This means I can
(almost) always leave the first section tied to the fly line and generally
only need to replace the last section. Eventually I need to replace the
first section as it's length gradually gets smaller with re-tying.
This works ok I think, but it can be a bit wasteful with line. Is there a
better way?
I've also just started using wet fly. For the moment I'd prefer not to have
to buy another cassette (and sinking line) for my reel, so I'm making do
with a sinking leader... which generally means ripping off the dry leader
sections again!
1. Discover "tippet," what fly fishers call the last (thinnest) part of
the leader, knotted to the fly. Nearly everyone adds to store-bought
leaders a tippet (anything from one to 6 feet long, depending on needs)
cut from the reels of tippet material they carry astream. Tippet thickness
is measured by X numbers (traditional) or thousandths of an inch. The
rule of thumb is that a size 8 fly requires 2X tippet (0.009"), a size 16
fly
4X (0.007") and so on.
2. Beginners need not concern themselves with supposed differences
between floating and sinking leaders. It is more important first to
find some fish, then to present to them a fly they will take. Generally
a dry fly leader should be longish and a sunk fly leader shortish
(especially if on a sinking line.)
--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)
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