No, The boat is gone. I do have a new tube made for the next model. It is
in storage, but I will try to locate it. It is actually quite simple. I
hauled the canoe on top of my truck. The steering was a simple lever; the
spring deflected the motor fully in one direction, so when the lever was
centered, it produced straight travel. The only problem was that the
aluminum tube eventually welded itself to the stainless motor shaft. The
new tube is large enough to place a pvc wrap between the new shaft and the
aluminum tube.
http://home.comcast.net/~thuxton/drawing.jpg

The stuffing tube is bolted to the canoe bottom and sealed with a rubbery
vinyl "bathtub calk" which sets firm quickly. The tube provides watertight
passage through the hull, and also a long bearing surface for the motor
shaft. The tube was braced near the top by a simple crossmember with a hole
through which the tube protruded. Attaching the sprocket to the top of the
tube requires a bit of fabrication or ingenuity. I used an end cap from a
truck shock absorber which happened to have the correct diameter to fit the
motor shaft.

Pepperoni

"Jey Jeyasingh" wrote in message
...
Interesting. Can you post a picture of this setup. Thanks,

"Pepperoni" wrote in message
...
You will want it deep enough to turn 360 degrees without hitting the
boat.
If it is too shallow, it will produce a ripping/sucking sound; too deep,
and
you will be picking up weeds and risk damage from striking submerged
objects.
----------------------
I once mounted a 20# electric under the front seat of a 17 foot canoe.
That
little motor would produce 7 knots; fast enough to troll for salmon.
It
was done with a foot long aluminum tube with a flange welded on one end
for
bolting to the bottom of the canoe. The tube came up beneath the front
canoe seat. (and was braced at the top.) This produced a watertight
shaft
to
hold the motor shaft. The motor shaft was cut and fitted with a bicycle
sprocket at the top. (electric wires passed through the center of the
sprocket) The sprocket was for steering. A short bicycle chain was
wrapped
around the sprocket for positive steering. A 1/2 inch pvc pipe was
flexed
around beneath the curved gunwale on one side to guide the steering rope
to
the rear seat. (the other end of the chain was tensioned with a long
spring
found at the truckstop for retaining brake hoses against the cab)
Wiring
for the motor was fabricated to the rear seat. Floatation foam was
added
to
offset the weight of the battery and the entire canoe was covered with
1/4
inch plywood, pop-riveted to the aluminum gunwale. (except for my rear
cockpit, of course).


When I pulled into the dock, the attendant always tried to sell me
gas......haha. None of the motor showed above the boat. Having the
motor
in front produced unbelievable maneuverability. When the salmon were
running, I would cruise by with my canoe paddle, making a paddling
motion,
but not touching the water. Being silent and doing 7 knots really
freaked
out some folks, especially when I backed into shore and pulled her half
out
onto the beach.

Pepperoni

"Marty S." wrote in message
...
Just a quick question... what is the proper depth of a transom
mounted
electric trolling motor for the best efficiency in the water? Do I
want
to
prop to be even with the bottom of the boat (a 12' jon boat), or down
to
its
deepest length? I have a 36" Minn kota transom mounted electric and a
fairly shallow stern/transom, so the motor/prop probably would be able
to
be
18" to 24" or so below the waterline at its deepest setting.

--
Marty S.
Baltimore, MD USA