Bill Curry wrote:
Hi,
I would second Bill K's advice about the cost - you can buy an SA or
Cortland and have a good quality line for less than $50-$60.
I would say that the weight forward is MUCH easier to cast for a beginner,
as the Double Taper does not put as much weight up front, and you will
notice the difference in your casting, which at first will be 40 feet and
under- this will be much easier with a WF line.

Although there are some individual difference, overall a double taper
and a weight forward line are the same for about the first thirty five
to forty feet. (This is true for SA, Cortland and Orvis standard lines -
not their specialty lines) Add a leader to this and in the average
stream fishing situation you'll never get to the place where the
difference between the two will show up.



The advantage of a double
taper (reversing it) is really kind of silly - by the time the front wears
out, do you think the rest of the line is still unblemished? A damaged line
is a damaged line.

I disagree. Almost all of the wear on a fly line is on the first ten
feet or so. I do think that you get twice the utility out of a double
taper line. When the line has worn enough, I'll reverse a double taper
and the other section is in close to new condition.



The real advantage to a DT is that because it has less weight up front you
can make more delicate (read - less splashy) casts when presenting dries at
a distance. You won't be doing that for the first year or two probably, so
go with the WF and have some fun!

This is only true on the "specialty" lines. With most manufacturers, the
tapers on the weight forward and the double tapers are the same for the
first 40 feet or so.


So for trout fishing and streams and most rivers which 95% + of all
casts are (or should be) under fifty feet, I recommend a DT line because
you get two lines for the price of one. With heavier outfits where
you're going to need to boom out casts, a WF is better.

Willi