Thanks Dave...

Did you get a chance to see the All Pro Rods that Joe had with him the other
day? He showed one of our distributors the one he had for me and the guy
tested it for spine and guide placement. The thing was perfect... except
this isn't just another "off the rack" rod builder. I wasn't fortunate
enough to actually catch a fish with it the other night, but it was very a
very nice rod for pitching and was as sensitive or better than the All Star
IM10X that I bought earlier in this year at the Nashville Fishing Expo. (Not
belittling my All Star!!!)

These rods also have graphite rings placed in the butt handle that allows
you to feel those little bites better, and the Titanium guides. Ask Joe to
let you use one of his the next time you and him hit Williamsport! Unless
the graphite rings are patented... I'm willing to bet that you could do the
same thing. They really do help to feel what's going on under the water.
It's just too bad that I didn't get to put a fish in the boat with it yet.
LOL


"D.Norton" wrote in message
...
It has been suggested that this subject be covered a bit more in depth.
While I realize that some here will have differing opinions that is quite
alright. As a custom rodbuilder with some 10 yrs. experience I feel
slightly
qualified to expound on this subject, so here goes!

First you must know the application for which the rod will be used. Will
it
be an all purpose rod , or will you use it for a specific appliction such
as
drop shotting. Next you must learn to understand to nomenclature of rods.
By
this I mean the difference between such things as "power" and
"action". There have been several additions to the FAQ
regarding these so I won't elaborate again. Many variables go into the
make
up of a rod. And these all interact as to how a rod performs. It's not
just
about guides, action, power and such. A rods ability to react a certain
way
is designed into the blank itself .However that action or whatever you
wish
to call it can be either heightened or destroyed by the way the rod is
assembled.

Spine) All blanks have an inherent spine(period)! Most
mass producers choose to ignore this when a rod is assembled. But the
location of the spine in relation to the
placement of the guides can make or break a rods
performance. As I said earlier; On a conventional baitcaster the guides
will
be set "directly" over the spine.
While on a spinning rod the guides will be placed at 180
degrees to the spine. I also said that there are ways to further enhance
the
performance of a rod with variations
to the above.

How to find the rods Spine) I do not propose to tell you to take some
specialized rod finder into stores with you.
You will most likely get thrown out. AND PLEASE, do
not under any circumstances try to make one according to
Joe H's description. What he describes is a Morton Spine
Finder, invented by one of the foremost rodbuilders in the world. Mr. Don
Morton of Ala. But what Joe could not see was the actual construction of
the
device. Sorry Joe!
The conical point rests in a free spinning bearing. To make what Joe
described would undoubtably do damage to the butt end of a rod. Again
sorry
Joe, but I needed to clear that up. Lest someone try it, and find
themselves
buying a piece of junk rod.
Ok, again 99.99% of retail sporting goods store have vinyl
floors. PLACE THE BUTT END on the floor and hold the rod at about 45-60
degrees from vertical. Place the tip
end in the palm of one hand. With the index and thumb of your other hand
gently bow the rod downward. Do this at a point about 1/3 of the way from
the tip.Gently roll the blank between you fingers while watching the butt
end. You will feel and see the spine jump. Do this back and forth until
you
have found the spot where it jumps the worst. Hold the rod so the this
spot
at the butt end is making direct contact with the floor. You have just
isolated the effective spine. If this rod is assembled correctly the
guides
for a baitcaster will be on the "outside" of the curve of the rod.
While spinning guides will be on the "inside" of the curve.
If you don't see what you should put it back!

Guide placement- When a rod is flexed the line should follow th "natural"
curve of the blank "period"! Anything else puts undo stress on both the
blank and the guides.
I am sure that by now most of you have heard about the Fuji Concept system
for guide placement. What it allows is for more guides to be used to
support
the line in a more natural arc to the blank. How to test for this. The
best
way
is to take a reel with you to the store, make sure it's a bit
scuffed..........hehehe! Mount the reel to the rod and run the line thru
the
guides . Again place the butt end on the floor ,with about 3ft. of the tag
end out the tip bow the rod. Don't hold the line right at the tip, but
rather a feww feet down. Now "really bow or load the rod. Look at the way
the line flows thru the guides. Does it follow the curve of the blank?
There
should be no sharp bends in the line.
This is what creates stress in blanks and guide feet.

The one critical test which you as a consumer cannot perform in the store
is
a casting test. This is especially true with spinning rods. This test
allows
a rodbuilder to fine tune the placement of the 1st or stripper guide. It
allows us to see how a given reel will perform with the rod. We might
actually change that guide so as to eliminate line slap.
Now days thanks to Fuji's Concept system guides being
used are generally smaller which reduces weight. This means that we can
use
an extra guide where needed to help support the line. More guides does
"not"
necessarily
mean more friction . By better support of the line as it goes thru guides
you can increase casting distance.

Once again we can see how many variables go into the make-up of a good,
great , or mediocre rod .So the next time you go hunting a new rod I hope
this will help you out.
--
D.Norton
Millennium Custom Rods