On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 16:30:15 GMT, rw
wrote:

Tim J. wrote:
rw wrote:

Tim J. wrote:


Like
Gary said, make the "D" and let as much remaining line as possible
rest on the water.

It's best to have as LITTLE line remaining on the water as possible,
to avoid what the spey casters call "stick."


Hmmm. . . I've not had that problem, but I've never spey cast, either.
I've watched many people roll cast, and watched several videos, all of
which state the line remains on the water. Here's an example:
http://www.flyfisherman.com/skills/jbrollcast/
One of the people I *haven't* watched is you, so maybe you're on to
something new and better.

You need enough line in the water to create "stick" for the cast to
change direction, but any more than that just results in wasted effort
required to pull the line off the water.


There's roll casts and there's single speys.

Here's a single spey:

http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/mecasting.avi

without a lot of line stick (though it should've been done with even
less).

There's also Skagit casting which relies on copious amounts of stick.

http://www.mountaincable.net/~pcharles/caledonia-7.jpg

that lets you bop out 80 footers from this limited amount of backcast
room.

Good rollcasts can be made with any rod and line, though obviously
some will be better than others. One thing you can't do is roll cast
running line so some of the belly must be in the guides. In the video
clip, I'm stripping the running line back until the end of the head is
in the guides. Spey casts can be performed with a bit of overhang but
it's difficult to get them to work reliably.

Make a clean, hard, high stop on the forward stroke. Try getting a
bit of energy moving backward in the D-loop as you come forward on the
powerstroke.


Peter

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