Mike,
IMO, what you have on your hands would be considered almost an ultra
light set-up. Some people use this type of set-up with great success.
Personally, the lightest I use for bass fishing is a medium 6' spinning rod
with a spinning reel and 10lb test. I can't really speak to the quality of
Mitchell reels, but I personally like Berkley Lightning rods real well. If
you are gearing more for bass in the future, I would recommend going up from
there, and probably to a baitcasting rig, when you feel your wallet can
stand another hit for this soon-to-be obsession! ;-) Every good bass
fisherman needs at least a couple rods and reels to lug around, for
different situations. I recommend that the nest purchase be a nice
baitcasting reel (I like Abu garcia, personally), on a good 6'6" Med-Heavy
baitcasting rod. This will throw a lot of heavier baits you might use in
the search for bass, like Jigs or crankbaits.

P.S. I've also thrown in a little bass fishing slang dictionary that I have
compiled to help people just getting into the bassin world understand what
the heck we are talking about at times... Hope it helps a little! Best of
luck!
--
Andrew Kidd
http://www.amiasoft.com/ - Software for the rest of us!
http://www.rofb.net/ - ROFB Newsgroup Home

I've compiled a mini terms and slang
dictionary here. There are so many terms that confused me to no end when I
first started bass fishing, that I often take for granted now. Here are a
few. I'm sure I've left many valid techniques and terms out, but these are
some that took some research to find out the real meaning. Please feel free
to add to the list...

Baits:
Crankbait - A minnow or small fish imitator. They vary widely in size and
shape. Many have a bill on the front to make the bait dive when retrieved,
and to impart a side to side wobble on the bait. Several different kinds use
slightly different names, such as dving, shallow running, lipless, etc. The
baits attraction lies in it's similarity to a natural fish, as well as the
vibration and potentially the sound generated by the bait (by some baits
that contain rattles) during the retrieve.

Jerkbait - In hard plastic variety, this is typically a longer version of
crankbait, often used with a jerking motion. The bait is usually know for
it's visual attraction, and from the vibration it puts off in the water.
Sometimes seen in a soft plastic variety as well. An example of this is the
Sluggo, which is usually fished slowly with an erratic stop and drop action.
Mostly a visual bait.

Topwater plug - Similar to a crankbait, only used in a floating application.
Usually without a diving bill of any type. Can be of many different
varieties, but many are worked with a twitching motion. Some make a
spitting action when twitched, some wiggle from side to side, some require
your twitching to impart a very subtle, repetitive action (sometimes
referred to as "walking the dog").

Prop baits - Again, similar to a crankbait in shape, but utilizing a small
prop on the front, back, or both to create a disturbance on the water as the
bait is retrieved. This could also be considered a topwater plug.

Spinnerbait - This category can be broken into a couple differnet styles.
The typical "safety pin" style, which consists of a lead "head" with a hook
out one end, and a bent wire coming out of the other. The opposite end of
the wire contains usually a single or double blade combination. Blade
styles can be broken into three basic styles: willow leaf (which is named
for it's shape), a colorado blade (in a rounded teardrop shape), and an
Indiana blade (a more slender teardrop shape). There are also several blade
styles that are derivative of these main styles. Another style of
spinnerbait is the inleine spinner, which often has only one blade, and no
bend between the wire and the weighted end of the bait. The spinnerbait's
attractions are it's flash generated by the blade, as well as it's
vibration. It is fished in many different ways, fast to slow, to stop and
go.

Jig and Pig - This combination typically consists of a jig, essentially a
hook with a leadhead molded on, containing a "skirt", made of rubber or
animal hair and a "pig" which refers to a pork rind type bait trailer fed
onto the hook. The pork trailer is usually shaped like a, well, like a ....
pork trailer. It consists of a body with pork fat with two trailing "legs"
of pork skin. It has also been replaced with soft plastic trailers as
well, which can be easier to use at times, since the pork must be kept wet
when not being used. The addition of rattles to the jig can often help in
muddier water, and adds to the lure visual attraction and vibration. This
bait is used to simulate a crawfish.

Soft plastic or rubber worms - This category is far to broad to go into
detail about, but usually consists of a soft plastic worm threaded onto a
hook. There are also versions that are pre-rigged onto hooks. Many
different varieties exist using different tail lengths, shapes and colors to
increase or decrease the vibration that this bait displaces and it's
visibility. This bait can be fished in several different ways. See the
Presentation techniques section...

Soft plastic or rubber craws, lizards, french fries, caterpillars, etc -
These are all typically variations of the soft plastic worm. Some are used
in very speciallized techniques, while most can be used for just about any
style of soft plastic fishing you choose.

Stick baits - This category is relatively new, and is exemplified by the
Senko style bait. This is a non-descript, cylindrical soft plastic
material, in a variety of lenghs and colors. It is lightly tapered, closer
to one end then the other. This baits primary attraction is it's
interesting slow fall. It is ususally very full of salt, so it casts well,
even unweighted. it is also know for the fish holding onto it very well
before the hookset.

Presentation techniques:
Weedless - A generic fishing term meaning "does not have exposed hook to
grab onto things".

Texas rig - This rig usually uses the soft plastic lure, with or without a
weight above it on the line. The primary advantage of this technique is the
point of the hook being hidden within the body of the bait, making it a very
weedless presentation. The bait is threaded onto the hook at a slight
angle. The bait is turned such that when the bait portion threaded onto the
hook it will line up with the hook tip, leaving the soft plastic bait
straight, while the hook is at an angle. A good picture of this hooking
technique can be found online at
http://www.catcherman.com/features/r...602sportmn.htm
anbd gives a much better representation then a written description.

Carolina rig - This rig differs from the Texas rig in that it involves more
then just how a soft plastic bait is threaded onto a hook. This is more of
a system. The bait itself can be threaded onto the hook using a Texas Rig
style presentation. The difference in this technique involves using a
heavier weight closest to the reel, followed usually by a glass bead (for
more noise), then a swivel tied directly inline. After the swivel, a
secondary "leader" is tied onto the other end of the swivel, typically of
slightly lower test line then the main line. At the end of this is tied the
hook or bait being used. This presentation involves dragging this along the
bottom at various depths to attract the fish not only throught the vibration
of the primary bait, but also through the commotion that the weight
contacting the bottom makes. Often used as more of a "search" bait then
just the plain texas rigged bait.

Split shotting or split shot rig - This technique is very similar to the
Carolina Rig, minus the swivel and bead. The weight is held inline through
the use of a pinched split shot, or through several different specalized
weight systems. This technique also usually employs a texas rigged bait at
the hook.

Drop Shotting - Drop shotting is a technique used where the weight is hung
from the very end of the fishing line. The baited hook is tied inline
towards the reel, allowing the bait to hang suspended while the weight is on
the bottom. The line between the weight and the bait is considered the
leader. This technique seems well designed for finding fish suspended
slightly above the bottom or over weeds.

Finesse fishing - Although a gross oversimplification, the term finesse
usually refers to downsizing of lures and weights used.

Casting techniques:
Flipping - Flipping is a technique where a length of line is extended from
the rod such that the line can be pulled just above the reel with the hand
not holding the rod, making the bait reappear from the water, swung towards
the body, then released as the pendulum action moves the bait away from the
body and towards the target. In this style of fishing, the reel is never
disengaged as it is during normal casting. It is primarily used in heavy
cover and when the water has some color to it to hide your closeness from
the fish. It usually requires a quiet presentation to not spook the fish,
not only with the lure but with the boat as well.

Pitching - This technique uses an underhand technique, like the flipping,
but the reel is disengaged, as in a normal cast. The bait, or the line
right above the bait is held in your hand not holding the rod. The tip of
the rod is lowered, the bait is released as the rod tip is raised again.
This creates the momentum required to propel the bait towards a target. The
timing of this is meant to have the bait's trajectory send it as horizontal
to the water's surface as possible. The line at the reel is feathered as
the bait approaches it's target, allowing for a soft presentation of the
bait into the water. Many experienced fishermen use this technique as
their primary cast in close quarters to the fish, although a bait can be
cast from quite a distance using this technique after some practice.

Roll cast - This is a cast that is essentially an energy saving technique.
As you prepare for the cast, allow a length of line about 12 - 24 inches to
extend from the rod tip. Hold the rod to your side, and swing the bait in a
circle at the rod tip, such that when the bait is on the lower end of the
circle, it is travelling towards the target. This usually requires just a
flick of the wrist. When the bait reaches it's lowest point, release the
line and allow the momentum developed to send the cast towards it's target.
This allows a lot of momentum to be developed from very little body
movement. After the seventh hour of casting, you will appreciate the energy
this technique saves. With a little practice, this technique can be
surprisingly accurate.

Hope this helps a little. I know I could have used some help like this when
I was just getting started...

"Mike Corrieri" wrote in message
m...
Hi all,

This group seems to get the better posters, so thought I'd ask here.
Been away from fishing (except rarely in sal****er, but not my own
gear) for some 30 years, and want to get back. Call it a mid-aged
crisis! I am sure fish are laughing everywhere... none are old enough
to remember when I was the terror of fish everywhere ;-)

I am hoping for brook trout and bass fishing, wanted to have something
I could use for both a bit. I was planning to use lures and artificial
baits. Advise away please...

I played with a bunch of stuff, then left with what I thought was a
pretty decent combination.. a Berkley rod (lightning rod 6'6', says
Medium Light 4-10) and a Mitchell spinning reel. When I was a kid
Mitchell spinners were the best, so that's what I got - though not the
expensive one, just a 308x. It felt well matched to the pole. The
setup sank me 78.00 total. Anyway when I snapped them togehter in the
store they seemed to have a good feel. Is this just junk? Should I
spend my 78.00 elsewhere, and do a bit better, especially for somebody
who hasn't fished for many years? The kid in me was saying a trout
would fear this setup in the hands of a pro. The rod seemed to be
pretty strong, with a supple top on it. Finding a salesman at Sport's
Authority was impossible, so your advise is a appreciated.

One of the things most suprising to me was the fishing line. The stuff
is tiny now. Anyhow, I was a bit surprised when I got home, with 8 lb
and 6 lb "stren" to read that the reel will only do 6 lb. I think
(especially having not fished for years) that I would do better with
the 8 lb line for starters, I would rather take the chance of not
hooking the fish, than hooking it and breaking the line through my
inexperience. Advice?

Looking on line there is another Mitchell reel, the 300x, which will
take the 8 lb test, but it looks heavier too. Am I making a mountain
out of a molehill?

Thanks for any help, and I would appreciate any advice on a better and
more knowledgeable way to do this. I have to admit, a lot of the
purchase was the kid in me going "Wow, nice rig dad!"

Mike C.