To Clip or Not to Clip...

That is the question.

I always use a duolock type clip for crank baits. I do that for two
reasons. First is because I feel it gives me a much better action than
tieing driectly onto the nose ring of a crank bait. The second is because
of being able to change baits quickly. I have had circumstances where I
have caught a couple fish and then the stopped hitting, but they would still
chase. As soon as I changed colors or body styles just slightly I would
nail a couple more int he same place. I know some guys can break off and
retie quickly, but I feel the pressure of time with bait in the boat instead
of the water.

Now lets get to topwater. With buzz baits, except some swimming minnow
types or a Norman's weeedwhacker you have to tie directly on, but I'm
talking about stick minnows or poppers. I usually work these baits on the
same rods as I do crank baits for much the same reason. To keep fish from
pulling loose on a run. As a result they often get put on the clip that I
already have tied onto the line. I also seem to get a lot of fouling of the
bait particularly when working a stick bait like an Excalibur spittin image
all the way back to the boat. I am wondering if eliminating the clip will
reduce the back and forth action just enough to keep the bait from over
running the line and fouling.

--
** Public Fishing and Boating Forums
** www.YumaBassMan.com

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
That is the question.

I always use a duolock type clip for crank baits. I do that for two
reasons. First is because I feel it gives me a much better action than
tieing driectly onto the nose ring of a crank bait. The second is because
of being able to change baits quickly. I have had circumstances where I
have caught a couple fish and then the stopped hitting, but they would
still
chase. As soon as I changed colors or body styles just slightly I would
nail a couple more int he same place. I know some guys can break off and
retie quickly, but I feel the pressure of time with bait in the boat
instead
of the water.

Now lets get to topwater. With buzz baits, except some swimming minnow
types or a Norman's weeedwhacker you have to tie directly on, but I'm
talking about stick minnows or poppers. I usually work these baits on the
same rods as I do crank baits for much the same reason. To keep fish from
pulling loose on a run. As a result they often get put on the clip that I
already have tied onto the line. I also seem to get a lot of fouling of
the
bait particularly when working a stick bait like an Excalibur spittin
image
all the way back to the boat. I am wondering if eliminating the clip will
reduce the back and forth action just enough to keep the bait from over
running the line and fouling.

Unless I'm forced to use a leader, usually wire because of pike/muskie
cutoffs, I rarely use a snap or clip. I have had snaps open up when I'm
really pressuring a fish, so I try to avoid that when ever possible.

I do however realize that some crankbaits have reduced action when the line
is tied directly. So, for lures like that, I simply put a split ring on the
line tie and cut/retie when I want to change lures. Yes, I know that this
takes a little bit of time, but I also found that I had a tendency to go too
long on retying and lost fish too.

I prefer to have as few connections between me and the fish as possible,
especially ones that are easy to open like a snap.

Tying direct might solve the topwater problem, hard saying.
--
Steve @ OutdoorFrontiers
http://www.outdoorfrontiers.com
G & S Guide Service and Custom Rods
http://www.herefishyfishy.com

Some crankbaits, like the Luhr Jensen Speed Trap, come with high-quality
clips rather than split rings. If used to unclip a lure and put another in
its place, it's no longer on the original lure. You either snip it off and
retie, or eventually put on split rings, or buy another pack of clips.

I agree with Steve... my concern is my going too long without retying, where
the knot becomes strained by pulling free from hang-ups, or the lower
several feet of line becomes abraded and weakened. If I had the self
discipline to check you line regularly and retie, I might do well whether I
used rings or clips. Otherwise, being forced to retie every time I switch
lures takes care of the problem.

Another point... while I'm a big proponent of changing or adapting lures to
meet changing conditions, or switching lures as I experiment to find one
that triggers bass to strike, I've fished with several guys who spend too
much time tinkering with their tackle and too little time fishing. Rather
than change lures frequently, I'd recommend looking at other variables....
lure placement and presentation, or retrieve rate and pattern, for example.
A clip might tempt me to switch up too frequently.

Joe Haubenreich
--
Staring at a computer screen?
Rather be fishing? Free SWL background at:
www.secretweaponlures.com/scrsvr.htm

_______________________
"Steve @ OutdoorFrontiers" wrote in
message ...

Unless I'm forced to use a leader, usually wire because of pike/muskie
cutoffs, I rarely use a snap or clip. I have had snaps open up when I'm
really pressuring a fish, so I try to avoid that when ever possible.

I do however realize that some crankbaits have reduced action when the line
is tied directly. So, for lures like that, I simply put a split ring on the
line tie and cut/retie when I want to change lures. Yes, I know that this
takes a little bit of time, but I also found that I had a tendency to go too
long on retying and lost fish too.

I prefer to have as few connections between me and the fish as possible,
especially ones that are easy to open like a snap.

Tying direct might solve the topwater problem, hard saying.
--
Steve @ OutdoorFrontiers
http://www.outdoorfrontiers.com
G & S Guide Service and Custom Rods
http://www.herefishyfishy.com

I solve the clip failure problem by simpley tossing them in the trash after
a bunch of hard fishing. Three or four times a day normally or anytime they
get too distorted. I have noticed I get more line failures from damaged
line than from knot failure since I went back to tying a half blood or
trilene or modified clinch (or whatever you want to call it) knot.

Lots of guys don't like clips, and that ok. I always say if its working for
you don't let somebody talk you into changing. Something I forget
sometimes.

--
** Public Fishing and Boating Forums
** www.YumaBassMan.com


"Steve @ OutdoorFrontiers" wrote in
message ...

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
That is the question.

I always use a duolock type clip for crank baits. I do that for two
reasons. First is because I feel it gives me a much better action than
tieing driectly onto the nose ring of a crank bait. The second is
because
of being able to change baits quickly. I have had circumstances where I
have caught a couple fish and then the stopped hitting, but they would
still
chase. As soon as I changed colors or body styles just slightly I would
nail a couple more int he same place. I know some guys can break off
and
retie quickly, but I feel the pressure of time with bait in the boat
instead
of the water.

Now lets get to topwater. With buzz baits, except some swimming minnow
types or a Norman's weeedwhacker you have to tie directly on, but I'm
talking about stick minnows or poppers. I usually work these baits on
the
same rods as I do crank baits for much the same reason. To keep fish
from
pulling loose on a run. As a result they often get put on the clip that
I
already have tied onto the line. I also seem to get a lot of fouling of
the
bait particularly when working a stick bait like an Excalibur spittin
image
all the way back to the boat. I am wondering if eliminating the clip
will
reduce the back and forth action just enough to keep the bait from over
running the line and fouling.

Unless I'm forced to use a leader, usually wire because of pike/muskie
cutoffs, I rarely use a snap or clip. I have had snaps open up when I'm
really pressuring a fish, so I try to avoid that when ever possible.

I do however realize that some crankbaits have reduced action when the
line
is tied directly. So, for lures like that, I simply put a split ring on
the
line tie and cut/retie when I want to change lures. Yes, I know that this
takes a little bit of time, but I also found that I had a tendency to go
too
long on retying and lost fish too.

I prefer to have as few connections between me and the fish as possible,
especially ones that are easy to open like a snap.

Tying direct might solve the topwater problem, hard saying.
--
Steve @ OutdoorFrontiers
http://www.outdoorfrontiers.com
G & S Guide Service and Custom Rods
http://www.herefishyfishy.com

I too have had split rings on my stick and crank baits for as long as
I can remember. I first did it to lessen the places a weed or other
chaf could attach to my lure. I also have had snaps open on me. It's
no fun to watch a hard fought fish swim away with your lure in its
mouth.

On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 11:08:54 -0600, "Steve @ OutdoorFrontiers"
sent into the ether:


"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
That is the question.

I always use a duolock type clip for crank baits. I do that for two
reasons. First is because I feel it gives me a much better action than
tieing driectly onto the nose ring of a crank bait. The second is because
of being able to change baits quickly. I have had circumstances where I
have caught a couple fish and then the stopped hitting, but they would
still
chase. As soon as I changed colors or body styles just slightly I would
nail a couple more int he same place. I know some guys can break off and
retie quickly, but I feel the pressure of time with bait in the boat
instead
of the water.

Now lets get to topwater. With buzz baits, except some swimming minnow
types or a Norman's weeedwhacker you have to tie directly on, but I'm
talking about stick minnows or poppers. I usually work these baits on the
same rods as I do crank baits for much the same reason. To keep fish from
pulling loose on a run. As a result they often get put on the clip that I
already have tied onto the line. I also seem to get a lot of fouling of
the
bait particularly when working a stick bait like an Excalibur spittin
image
all the way back to the boat. I am wondering if eliminating the clip will
reduce the back and forth action just enough to keep the bait from over
running the line and fouling.

Unless I'm forced to use a leader, usually wire because of pike/muskie
cutoffs, I rarely use a snap or clip. I have had snaps open up when I'm
really pressuring a fish, so I try to avoid that when ever possible.

I do however realize that some crankbaits have reduced action when the line
is tied directly. So, for lures like that, I simply put a split ring on the
line tie and cut/retie when I want to change lures. Yes, I know that this
takes a little bit of time, but I also found that I had a tendency to go too
long on retying and lost fish too.

I prefer to have as few connections between me and the fish as possible,
especially ones that are easy to open like a snap.

Tying direct might solve the topwater problem, hard saying.


Remove the x for e-mail reply
www.outdoorfrontiers.com
www.SecretWeaponLures.com

Learn to tie a Rapala knot,Gives the action you are looking for, and
eliminates unecessary mechanical parts.

--
D.Norton

"Dan, danl, danny boy, Redbeard, actually Greybeard now"
wrote in message
...
I too have had split rings on my stick and crank baits for as long as
I can remember. I first did it to lessen the places a weed or other
chaf could attach to my lure. I also have had snaps open on me. It's
no fun to watch a hard fought fish swim away with your lure in its
mouth.

On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 11:08:54 -0600, "Steve @ OutdoorFrontiers"
sent into the ether:


"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
That is the question.

I always use a duolock type clip for crank baits. I do that for two
reasons. First is because I feel it gives me a much better action
than
tieing driectly onto the nose ring of a crank bait. The second is
because
of being able to change baits quickly. I have had circumstances
where I
have caught a couple fish and then the stopped hitting, but they
would
still
chase. As soon as I changed colors or body styles just slightly I
would
nail a couple more int he same place. I know some guys can break off
and
retie quickly, but I feel the pressure of time with bait in the boat
instead
of the water.

Now lets get to topwater. With buzz baits, except some swimming
minnow
types or a Norman's weeedwhacker you have to tie directly on, but I'm
talking about stick minnows or poppers. I usually work these baits
on the
same rods as I do crank baits for much the same reason. To keep fish
from
pulling loose on a run. As a result they often get put on the clip
that I
already have tied onto the line. I also seem to get a lot of fouling
of
the
bait particularly when working a stick bait like an Excalibur spittin
image
all the way back to the boat. I am wondering if eliminating the clip
will
reduce the back and forth action just enough to keep the bait from
over
running the line and fouling.

Unless I'm forced to use a leader, usually wire because of pike/muskie
cutoffs, I rarely use a snap or clip. I have had snaps open up when
I'm
really pressuring a fish, so I try to avoid that when ever possible.

I do however realize that some crankbaits have reduced action when the
line
is tied directly. So, for lures like that, I simply put a split ring
on the
line tie and cut/retie when I want to change lures. Yes, I know that
this
takes a little bit of time, but I also found that I had a tendency to
go too
long on retying and lost fish too.

I prefer to have as few connections between me and the fish as
possible,
especially ones that are easy to open like a snap.

Tying direct might solve the topwater problem, hard saying.


Remove the x for e-mail reply
www.outdoorfrontiers.com
www.SecretWeaponLures.com

On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 13:05:34 -0600, "D, Norton"
sent into the ether:

Learn to tie a Rapala knot,Gives the action you are looking for, and
eliminates unecessary mechanical parts.

Too lazy :} And the 2 knots I know took me years and years to
master. :}


Remove the x for e-mail reply
www.outdoorfrontiers.com
www.SecretWeaponLures.com

I have had bad luck with the Rapala knot weakening and eventually breaking
where it had rubbed & chafed against the eye of the lure. Conversely, I have
never had a real Duolock snap open on me during use. But then again, I have
never broken a rod either. Maybe it's just the luck of the draw?

Bob Rickard
(AKA Dr. Spinnerbait)
www.secretweaponlures.com
--------------------------=x O')))


----- Original Message -----
From: "D, Norton"
Newsgroups: rec.outdoors.fishing.bass
Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2005 1:05 PM
Subject: To Clip or Not to Clip...


Learn to tie a Rapala knot,Gives the action you are looking for, and
eliminates unecessary mechanical parts.

--
D.Norton

A plain old Loop Knot is easier to tie.


"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
That is the question.

I always use a duolock type clip for crank baits. I do that for two
reasons. First is because I feel it gives me a much better action than
tieing driectly onto the nose ring of a crank bait. The second is because
of being able to change baits quickly. I have had circumstances where I
have caught a couple fish and then the stopped hitting, but they would
still
chase. As soon as I changed colors or body styles just slightly I would
nail a couple more int he same place. I know some guys can break off and
retie quickly, but I feel the pressure of time with bait in the boat
instead
of the water.

Now lets get to topwater. With buzz baits, except some swimming minnow
types or a Norman's weeedwhacker you have to tie directly on, but I'm
talking about stick minnows or poppers. I usually work these baits on the
same rods as I do crank baits for much the same reason. To keep fish from
pulling loose on a run. As a result they often get put on the clip that I
already have tied onto the line. I also seem to get a lot of fouling of
the
bait particularly when working a stick bait like an Excalibur spittin
image
all the way back to the boat. I am wondering if eliminating the clip will
reduce the back and forth action just enough to keep the bait from over
running the line and fouling.

--
** Public Fishing and Boating Forums
** www.YumaBassMan.com

eh?

--
David Norton

"Jerry Barton (NervisRek)" wrote in message
...
A plain old Loop Knot is easier to tie.


"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
That is the question.

I always use a duolock type clip for crank baits. I do that for two
reasons. First is because I feel it gives me a much better action than
tieing driectly onto the nose ring of a crank bait. The second is
because
of being able to change baits quickly. I have had circumstances where I
have caught a couple fish and then the stopped hitting, but they would
still
chase. As soon as I changed colors or body styles just slightly I would
nail a couple more int he same place. I know some guys can break off and
retie quickly, but I feel the pressure of time with bait in the boat
instead
of the water.

Now lets get to topwater. With buzz baits, except some swimming minnow
types or a Norman's weeedwhacker you have to tie directly on, but I'm
talking about stick minnows or poppers. I usually work these baits on
the
same rods as I do crank baits for much the same reason. To keep fish
from
pulling loose on a run. As a result they often get put on the clip that
I
already have tied onto the line. I also seem to get a lot of fouling of
the
bait particularly when working a stick bait like an Excalibur spittin
image
all the way back to the boat. I am wondering if eliminating the clip
will
reduce the back and forth action just enough to keep the bait from over
running the line and fouling.

--
** Public Fishing and Boating Forums
** www.YumaBassMan.com