More DS ????

yesterday before I went to the lake I dropped shot-ted in the 10 ft end of
our pool and played around some. I found that just shaking the rod tip
didn't do a lot for the movement of the bait , some but not a lot.The best
movement I saw was letting the bait sink a foot or so and work it back to
the original height.Also by moving the rod tip from left to right on a
slightly slack line seemed to work real well[ swimming the bait from left to
right] . .What type of tricks do you guys use?? Also I'm still having
trouble detecting a bites..... DS ing is not as easy as it would seem. This
is my first serious attempt at DSing and I have only caught one fish in
about 14 hrs fishing. Not a real good average is it??
Well there's always this evening
Thanks
Ken Blevins

"Ken Blevins" wrote in message
news
yesterday before I went to the lake I dropped shot-ted in the 10 ft end of
our pool and played around some. I found that just shaking the rod tip
didn't do a lot for the movement of the bait , some but not a lot.The best
movement I saw was letting the bait sink a foot or so and work it back to
the original height.Also by moving the rod tip from left to right on a
slightly slack line seemed to work real well[ swimming the bait from left
to
right] . .What type of tricks do you guys use?? Also I'm still having
trouble detecting a bites..... DS ing is not as easy as it would seem.
This
is my first serious attempt at DSing and I have only caught one fish in
about 14 hrs fishing. Not a real good average is it??
Well there's always this evening
Thanks
Ken Blevins

Flourocarbon helps, but in only 10' of water you should no problem detecting
strikes with mono either.

I am glad to hear about your experiments. I too tend to just shake the rod.
I have not really experimented with it in the pool. I guess I should have.
I've tried just about everything else int he pool.

Now I'm gonna have to play with it. Seems to me that when I did play with a
drop shot in clear shallow water that shaking the rod made the bait quiver
rather than bounce up and down.


--
Bob La Londe
www.YumaBassMan.com

Ken,

Sometimes it is those subtle movements or no movement at all that
triggers the strike. I have found that letting the bait sink a foot or
so (as you discovered) and then lifting it back up triggers a lot of
strikes. I have to admit, swimming the bait side to side is not
something I have done a lot of (if at all).

I was curious, and you may have mentioned this in previous posts, but
what kind of setup are you running? Meaning rod, line, weight, baits?
I personally use a 7' medium fast action rod (Fenwick) with 8lb Seaguar
carbon pro (or invisx). I have used up to a 1/2 ounce weight, but
mostly I stick with 1/4 ounce. Using a low stretch line like
Fluorocarbon allows you to feel a lot of subtle bites. Also using a
fast action quality rod (light graphite) gives you extra sensitivity as
well. Also what type of structure are you fishing? Are you using your
electronics? Marking bait, fish? Just curious.

Chris
Ken Blevins wrote:
yesterday before I went to the lake I dropped shot-ted in the 10 ft end of
our pool and played around some. I found that just shaking the rod tip
didn't do a lot for the movement of the bait , some but not a lot.The best
movement I saw was letting the bait sink a foot or so and work it back to
the original height.Also by moving the rod tip from left to right on a
slightly slack line seemed to work real well[ swimming the bait from left to
right] . .What type of tricks do you guys use?? Also I'm still having
trouble detecting a bites..... DS ing is not as easy as it would seem. This
is my first serious attempt at DSing and I have only caught one fish in
about 14 hrs fishing. Not a real good average is it??
Well there's always this evening
Thanks
Ken Blevins

Hi Chris
The rig I'm using is a 7'3" All-Star [spiral wrap] , light action tip w/
extra fast backbone.Curado 201 spooled with 15 lb[4 lb dia. ] power pro -3/4
oz weight.As far as baits go
a 3in tube or ribbon tail worm in blue or green seem to have the best action
but doesn't necessary mean they will catch fish. The only fish I have caught
was on a 4 in flouresant [sp]blue Renegade worm.. .Also have the same setup
but use a 2000fa Strada with PP and 7'3" All-Star.I hope to have better
luck tomorrow, raining today
Ken Blevins

"Chris Rennert" wrote in message
.. .
Ken,

Sometimes it is those subtle movements or no movement at all that triggers
the strike. I have found that letting the bait sink a foot or so (as you
discovered) and then lifting it back up triggers a lot of strikes. I have
to admit, swimming the bait side to side is not something I have done a
lot of (if at all).

I was curious, and you may have mentioned this in previous posts, but what
kind of setup are you running? Meaning rod, line, weight, baits?
I personally use a 7' medium fast action rod (Fenwick) with 8lb Seaguar
carbon pro (or invisx). I have used up to a 1/2 ounce weight, but mostly
I stick with 1/4 ounce. Using a low stretch line like Fluorocarbon allows
you to feel a lot of subtle bites. Also using a fast action quality rod
(light graphite) gives you extra sensitivity as well. Also what type of
structure are you fishing? Are you using your electronics? Marking bait,
fish? Just curious.

Chris
Ken Blevins wrote:
yesterday before I went to the lake I dropped shot-ted in the 10 ft end
of our pool and played around some. I found that just shaking the rod
tip didn't do a lot for the movement of the bait , some but not a lot.The
best movement I saw was letting the bait sink a foot or so and work it
back to the original height.Also by moving the rod tip from left to right
on a slightly slack line seemed to work real well[ swimming the bait from
left to right] . .What type of tricks do you guys use?? Also I'm still
having trouble detecting a bites..... DS ing is not as easy as it would
seem. This is my first serious attempt at DSing and I have only caught
one fish in about 14 hrs fishing. Not a real good average is it??
Well there's always this evening
Thanks
Ken Blevins

Ken,

This might start a war here, but are you using Power-Pro in that crystal
clear water? There are a few schools of thought on it, I personally
stay on the side of "make everything as invisible as possible besides
your bait", I use fluorocarbon 100% of the time when drop shotting. KVD
has said he doesn't think line makes a big difference, but Aaron Martens
would probably disagree.
It doesn't mean what I do is the best way, or the right way, it is just
the way I am confident doing it. Things can change :-).

Chris
Ken Blevins wrote:
Hi Chris
The rig I'm using is a 7'3" All-Star [spiral wrap] , light action tip w/
extra fast backbone.Curado 201 spooled with 15 lb[4 lb dia. ] power pro -3/4
oz weight.As far as baits go
a 3in tube or ribbon tail worm in blue or green seem to have the best action
but doesn't necessary mean they will catch fish. The only fish I have caught
was on a 4 in flouresant [sp]blue Renegade worm.. .Also have the same setup
but use a 2000fa Strada with PP and 7'3" All-Star.I hope to have better
luck tomorrow, raining today
Ken Blevins

"Chris Rennert" wrote in message
.. .
Ken,

Sometimes it is those subtle movements or no movement at all that triggers
the strike. I have found that letting the bait sink a foot or so (as you
discovered) and then lifting it back up triggers a lot of strikes. I have
to admit, swimming the bait side to side is not something I have done a
lot of (if at all).

I was curious, and you may have mentioned this in previous posts, but what
kind of setup are you running? Meaning rod, line, weight, baits?
I personally use a 7' medium fast action rod (Fenwick) with 8lb Seaguar
carbon pro (or invisx). I have used up to a 1/2 ounce weight, but mostly
I stick with 1/4 ounce. Using a low stretch line like Fluorocarbon allows
you to feel a lot of subtle bites. Also using a fast action quality rod
(light graphite) gives you extra sensitivity as well. Also what type of
structure are you fishing? Are you using your electronics? Marking bait,
fish? Just curious.

Chris
Ken Blevins wrote:
yesterday before I went to the lake I dropped shot-ted in the 10 ft end
of our pool and played around some. I found that just shaking the rod
tip didn't do a lot for the movement of the bait , some but not a lot.The
best movement I saw was letting the bait sink a foot or so and work it
back to the original height.Also by moving the rod tip from left to right
on a slightly slack line seemed to work real well[ swimming the bait from
left to right] . .What type of tricks do you guys use?? Also I'm still
having trouble detecting a bites..... DS ing is not as easy as it would
seem. This is my first serious attempt at DSing and I have only caught
one fish in about 14 hrs fishing. Not a real good average is it??
Well there's always this evening
Thanks
Ken Blevins

Chris Hello again. I've got a spool of 10 lb Stren fluorocarbon that
I use for leader material .I'll spool it up and see if my catch rate go
up... It can't go down
Ken




"Chris Rennert" wrote in message
.. .
Ken,

This might start a war here, but are you using Power-Pro in that crystal
clear water? There are a few schools of thought on it, I personally stay
on the side of "make everything as invisible as possible besides your
bait", I use fluorocarbon 100% of the time when drop shotting. KVD has
said he doesn't think line makes a big difference, but Aaron Martens would
probably disagree.
It doesn't mean what I do is the best way, or the right way, it is just
the way I am confident doing it. Things can change :-).

Chris
Ken Blevins wrote:
Hi Chris The rig I'm using is a 7'3" All-Star [spiral wrap] , light
action tip w/ extra fast backbone.Curado 201 spooled with 15 lb[4 lb
dia. ] power pro -3/4 oz weight.As far as baits go
a 3in tube or ribbon tail worm in blue or green seem to have the best
action but doesn't necessary mean they will catch fish. The only fish I
have caught was on a 4 in flouresant [sp]blue Renegade worm.. .Also have
the same setup but use a 2000fa Strada with PP and 7'3" All-Star.I hope
to have better luck tomorrow, raining today
Ken Blevins

"Chris Rennert" wrote in message
.. .
Ken,

Sometimes it is those subtle movements or no movement at all that
triggers the strike. I have found that letting the bait sink a foot or
so (as you discovered) and then lifting it back up triggers a lot of
strikes. I have to admit, swimming the bait side to side is not
something I have done a lot of (if at all).

I was curious, and you may have mentioned this in previous posts, but
what kind of setup are you running? Meaning rod, line, weight, baits?
I personally use a 7' medium fast action rod (Fenwick) with 8lb Seaguar
carbon pro (or invisx). I have used up to a 1/2 ounce weight, but
mostly I stick with 1/4 ounce. Using a low stretch line like
Fluorocarbon allows you to feel a lot of subtle bites. Also using a
fast action quality rod (light graphite) gives you extra sensitivity as
well. Also what type of structure are you fishing? Are you using your
electronics? Marking bait, fish? Just curious.

Chris
Ken Blevins wrote:
yesterday before I went to the lake I dropped shot-ted in the 10 ft end
of our pool and played around some. I found that just shaking the rod
tip didn't do a lot for the movement of the bait , some but not a
lot.The best movement I saw was letting the bait sink a foot or so and
work it back to the original height.Also by moving the rod tip from
left to right on a slightly slack line seemed to work real well[
swimming the bait from left to right] . .What type of tricks do you
guys use?? Also I'm still having trouble detecting a bites..... DS ing
is not as easy as it would seem. This is my first serious attempt at
DSing and I have only caught one fish in about 14 hrs fishing. Not a
real good average is it??
Well there's always this evening
Thanks
Ken Blevins

Ken Blevins wrote:
..What type of tricks do you guys use??

They won't let me tell you here, but you can email for the answer no one
here, wants anyone to know. and it won't cost you a dime


--
Rodney Long,
Inventor of the Mojo SpecTastic "WIGGLE" rig, SpecTastic Thread,
Boomerang Fishing Pro. ,Stand Out Hooks ,Stand Out Lures,
Mojo's Rock Hopper & Rig Saver weights, and the EZKnot
http://www.ezknot.com

"Ken Blevins" wrote in message
news
Chris Hello again. I've got a spool of 10 lb Stren fluorocarbon
that I use for leader material .I'll spool it up and see if my catch
rate go up... It can't go down
Ken

If you'd like my honest opinion, I don't think changing to mono is going to
change your catch rate. A fish's brain isn't even developed enough to have
pain receptors, so I don't think having line visible is going to stop them
from biting the lure. You have to trigger a feeding response. The problem
as I see it is this.

With mono or fluorocarbon, you have less visibility, but you also have
stretch. This is going to reduce the feel of the take, and you're also
going to have to overcome the line stretch in order to set the hook! Sure,
you can line watch to eliminate the lack of feel, but you still have the
hooksetting problem.

I've fished smallies in water with visible bottom to 20 feet. I've fished
Yo-Zuri Hybrid while the guy in the back was fishing 10 lb. PowerPro on a
rod identical to the one I was fishing. He caught as many, if not more bass
as I did, from the back of the boat, fishing "used water." I'd have to say
too that our abilities are pretty even.
--
Steve @ OutdoorFrontiers
http://www.outdoorfrontiers.com
G & S Guide Service and Custom Rods
http://www.herefishyfishy.com

On 5 separate occasions now, I've had guys get in my boat set up to DS
with braid of one type or another. In EVERY case, after I got up on them
5 to 10 fish to 0 or 1 fish, they switched to Fluoro. Usually just by
borrowing my spare rod. And don't mess with a leader. Spool that rod up
with no heavier than 6 lb fluoro if you want to catch more DS fish.

Also, 9 times out of 10, the less action you put in the worm, the more
fish you'll catch. I think overworking the worm is the single biggest
mistake DS new DS anglers make.

Switching away from braid is probably a good idea, but maybe you're just
not finding the fish. You said your pool was 10' but how deep are you
fishing? If your trying to DS in 10' of water straight down, you're
probably not going to get hit allot. You can drop shot shallow, but you
need to cast like you're throwing a Carolina rig or something.
My very limited experience with the DS tells me that it seems to work
when the fish are just out of sight below you. At Lake George I could see
down 15 to 25 feet depending on where in the lake I was and most of the 100
or so fish I got on the DS came in about 28 to 35 feet of water, just out of
sight and right under my boat. The whole time I used a 6'6" medium action
spinning combo with 10lb P-Line floroclear (copolymer mono/floro) line.
I've caught a few casting the drop shot from shore and working it in
relatively shallow water like 10 feet or less. I tried applying what I
learned at Lake George back home here in NJ and I found that I don't know
where the fish are. There are a few good lakes by me that the DS would work
well in but now I have to find the spots on the spots. And that can take
some work on sizable "electric only" lakes. Lake George is the cure for the
bad fisherman. They practically jump in your boat up there. Here in NJ
it's a different story.

Rich P