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#1
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In my quest to join the ranks of gearwhores, I decided to get a 3-wt
outfit to add to my 5, 6 and 8. After reading favorable reviews I opted for the Temple Forks 7'6" 3-wt and a Redington CT. I got both in yesterday, and rigged up to do some lawn-fishing. It appears the CT isn't right or left "handed". It has what looks to be a matching pair of spring and pawls, so I'm guessing it doesn't really matter which way I set it up. Also, I saw no sign of any adjustment mechanism, so I'm guessing that the factory "drag" setting is adequate as is. Is all of this correct? So how do youse guys go about setting up leaders for fishing a light rig like that? Most of the factory-made taper butts seems to be about .021, but that seems a bit too big for matching up to the line (.019 looks more like it). Does anyone make a knotless tapered leader that matches well with a 3-wt, or should I just roll my own? Anyhow, I *really* enjoyed casting with this outfit. It seemed effortless to cast, but I had to pay a little extra attention to the backcast to get the feel for when it was loading. I rigged up with a braided leader just for kicks, and the yarn "fly" I was throwing seemed to just hover above the lawn. Finally, if anyone is interested in owning a NIB 2/3 wt. CT, contact me offgroup. I ordered one before realizing that the 3/4 is better-suited for this rig, so I have one that hasn't even been used. And as of last week, there is at least one place that still has the CT in stock. They aren't reduced, but they are available at Creekside Fly Fishing: http://www.creeksideflyfishing.com/M...tore_Code=CSFF Chuck Vance |
#2
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![]() "Conan the Librarian" wrote in message om... "So how do youse guys go about setting up leaders for fishing a light rig like that? Most of the factory-made taper butts seems to be about .021, but that seems a bit too big for matching up to the line (.019 looks more like it). Does anyone make a knotless tapered leader that matches well with a 3-wt, or should I just roll my own?" After a fair amount of experimentation this summer I have come to rely on a furled leader for my 2 and 3 weight rods, going to hand-tied with SS or Maxima for my 4 weight and above rods. I love the way the 3wt rod I have casts with a furled leader - very nice, delicate delivery. So far, one leader lasted all season and will work well into the next. A fair return on the rather spendy investment these leaders demand (I paid about $10 for a 9 foot, 3 weight design made by an Olympia WA manufacturer stocked by my local shop). A couple things I found. First, use a surgeons loop to add about 12" of 5X tippet to the looped end of the furled leader. I then blood knot 3 feet or so of 5X or 6X tippet to that. The end loop in a furled leader seems delicate to me (though I have had no problems despite a few 16" smallies, numerous panfish and a couple browns in the 14" range). Once it tightens up on the tippet connection it is a pain in the a** to open it back up, requiring an awl or bodkin (or 2). With the "sacrifice" 5X as a semi-permanent connecting piece I only had to work the loop twice all season. I found the furled leader didn't present too much "spray" on a forward cast and what spray there was shook off on a single false cast - fine for dries. The leader is FAR more supple than any mono construction I have tried and works superbly for soft-hackle and wet fly presentations "down and across" a la Nymes. I don't think a furled leader is a very good choice into a wind, but then neither is a 3wt! For my apps (small streams and ponds, flies to size 12 wet or 14 dry) this combo is tough to beat. YMMV Joe C. |
#3
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Joe C. wrote:snip I love the way the 3wt rod I have
casts with a furled leader - very nice, delicate delivery. So far, one leader lasted all season and will work well into the next I am going to have to give these a try. I have a friend that makes the furled leaders and I will ask him to make me a few light ones suitable for use on 3 weight rods. Big Dale |
#4
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Chuck wrote: It appears the CT isn't right or left "handed". It has what
looks to be a matching pair of spring and pawls, so I'm guessing it doesn't really matter which way I set it up. You got that right. I find that the way it is set up out of the box works fine for me. I only use drag to keep the reel from overspooling and it does fine for that. On the leaders, I just buy a 12 foot leader and shorten the butt by three or four geet before glueing it to the tip of the fly line. I like to avoid as many knots as possible due mto all the vegetation in most of the waters that I fish. Sounds like a cool outfit to me. I got a call from my rod builder yesterday and he said that he had finished putting the new cool little Leo Eck reel seat on my Temple Fork 8.5 foot 3 weight 4 piece rod. We will have a good time playing with it at Rendezvous this weekend. I think I am planning on only taking 4 three weights rods there this weekend. Toys are cool Big Dale. |
#5
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"Cornmuse" wrote in message ...
After a fair amount of experimentation this summer I have come to rely on a furled leader for my 2 and 3 weight rods, going to hand-tied with SS or Maxima for my 4 weight and above rods. I love the way the 3wt rod I have casts with a furled leader - very nice, delicate delivery. So far, one leader lasted all season and will work well into the next. A fair return on the rather spendy investment these leaders demand (I paid about $10 for a 9 foot, 3 weight design made by an Olympia WA manufacturer stocked by my local shop). I bought a couple of the *rv*s braided leaders when the Austin shop had their store-closing sale, and so far I like the way it casts on the 3-wt. Is there a company name I should be looking for for the leader you describe? I've been thinking about making my own, but just haven't gotten around to making the jig for braiding. A couple things I found. First, use a surgeons loop to add about 12" of 5X tippet to the looped end of the furled leader. I then blood knot 3 feet or so of 5X or 6X tippet to that. The end loop in a furled leader seems delicate to me (though I have had no problems despite a few 16" smallies, numerous panfish and a couple browns in the 14" range). Once it tightens up on the tippet connection it is a pain in the a** to open it back up, requiring an awl or bodkin (or 2). With the "sacrifice" 5X as a semi-permanent connecting piece I only had to work the loop twice all season. Sounds like excellent advice, thanks. I was actually thinking that the loop on the tippet section looked fairly delicate when I was setting up my rig. Also, I was wondering if I would run into any problems with the mono and braid junction due to the dissimilarity of materials. I found the furled leader didn't present too much "spray" on a forward cast and what spray there was shook off on a single false cast - fine for dries. The leader is FAR more supple than any mono construction I have tried and works superbly for soft-hackle and wet fly presentations "down and across" a la Nymes. I don't think a furled leader is a very good choice into a wind, but then neither is a 3wt! For my apps (small streams and ponds, flies to size 12 wet or 14 dry) this combo is tough to beat. I bought the 3-wt for stream fishing here and for some trips I expect to be taking in the future to places like NC. After my experience casting even a 5-wt into the wind in Montana in September, I've got no illusions about it working in those sorts of conditions. :-} Thanks for your advice. Now if I can just get someone to comment on my question about the Redington reel. Chuck Vance |
#6
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#7
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Conan wrote:snipWhen you say you glue the leader to the line,
are you talking about the method where you insert the leader into the line and glue it (the Whitlock method)? I usually use a loop-to-loop connection with a permanent bit of mono nail-knotted to the line with a perfection loop in the end. Yeah, I use what is now called "the Whitlock method". I first learned it from the guys as the Austin Angler. I keep running into "Whitlock methods" that were in common use before they became "the Whitlock method." I prefer it for my light line fly lines, but then I have waters that grow a lot more "salad" than do the ones in the hill country. Big Dale |
#8
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Brimbum wrote:
Yeah, I use what is now called "the Whitlock method". I first learned it from the guys as the Austin Angler. I keep running into "Whitlock methods" that were in common use before they became "the Whitlock method." Yeah, I know ... I was taught it by those same guys (Joe and ?) back in the early 80's. I just tend to call it that because it's a handy shorthand way to describe it. I prefer it for my light line fly lines, but then I have waters that grow a lot more "salad" than do the ones in the hill country. Just curious, what do you do to minimize changing leaders (and shortening your flyline) while at the same time keeping the knots to a minimum? I've been using the loop-to-loop with an extra length of tippet surgeon's-knotted to the leader. Chuck Vance |
#9
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Conan The Librarian wrote:
Just curious, what do you do to minimize changing leaders (and shortening your flyline) while at the same time keeping the knots to a minimum? I've been using the loop-to-loop with an extra length of tippet surgeon's-knotted to the leader. Realizing you're not talking to me, I'll chime in anyway. I tie new leaders onto a mono "butt end" with a blood knot. One butt end lasts for quite a few leader changes. It's basically the thick end of a new tapered leader. I attach the butt end to the flyline with either a needle knot, a nail knot, or a leader link. Loop-to-loop connections on light tackle suck, IMO. -- Cut "to the chase" for my email address. |
#10
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![]() conan wrote: really matter which way I set it up. Also, I saw no sign of any adjustment mechanism, so I'm guessing that the factory "drag" setting is adequate as is. Is all of this correct? my still-unused "new" redington CT 5/6 has a small slightly knurled knob on the back for adjusting drag. perhaps it's different for the smaller reels???? eric zamora fresno, ca. |
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