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hook sharpener q



 
 
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  #1  
Old July 29th, 2005, 04:52 PM
Ben S.
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Default hook sharpener q

Hi folks

I'm getting a little tired of poor hit to hookup ratio, I think I need
to sharpen my hooks. Has anyone tried the electric hook sharpeners,
like the Rapala and Berkley ones? Any good?

I know I need to get better at setting the hook, but sharp hooks remove
one variable from the equation...

thanks,
-ben
  #2  
Old July 29th, 2005, 07:45 PM
David H. Lipman
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Default

From: "Ben S."

| Hi folks
|
| I'm getting a little tired of poor hit to hookup ratio, I think I need
| to sharpen my hooks. Has anyone tried the electric hook sharpeners,
| like the Rapala and Berkley ones? Any good?
|
| I know I need to get better at setting the hook, but sharp hooks remove
| one variable from the equation...
|
| thanks,
| -ben

I use a Dremel with a flat aluminum oxide or other fine sandstone disc.

--
Dave
http://www.claymania.com/removal-trojan-adware.html
http://www.ik-cs.com/got-a-virus.htm


  #3  
Old July 30th, 2005, 02:35 AM
Mark D
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Default

Hi, As the Previous poster has noted, a Dremel Tool would be good, and
probably the tools you mention also.

I've used a regular very fine Hook File over the years, and it will
sharpen virtually any Hook with just a few swipes. With a small manual
tool like this, you'll be able to always keep it handy in your Tackle
Box if needed, and won't ever have to worry about dead
batteries-electricity when you need it

What I recommend, is spend an hour, or two with all your favorite lures,
and sit down, and sharpen all of them. Any bum Treble hooks, replace
them with high quality hooks such as Eagle Claw-Gamatsu of similar size.

What is most important, is not so much the type, or brand of hook
Sharpener you use, but your own skill at attaining a sharp Hook.
Test them by lightly dragging-skimming the Hook's point across your
fingernail, or thumbnail. An ultra sharp hook will grab easily, and
immediately, regardless of size. A dull hook will skid, and not bite
into your nail.

Sharp Hooks are important for any type fish, but especially important
for freshwater fish like Muskie, Northern Pike, which have very hard,
boney mouths.

Yes, Hookset is very important also. For little fish, or fish that have
paper thin mouths like Crappie, a delicate hookset is needed.

But for larger fish, such as 5 lb+ Bass, large Northerns, and Muskies,
you really need to lay into them very hard, and need to ensure you have
the proper test line that can handle these torturous shock forces.

Many pros use what is called a "reverse Hookset".

This hookset is done with a snap, not just a gradual rearing back on the
rod. This hookset really drives the hooks home hard.

Distances are another consideration. Any line that has considerable
stretch will not be good for hooksets over a longer distance (lets say
50ft as an example) Most high quality Mono lines sold now days have
very little stretch to the monofilaments of old. Don't skimp with cheap
generic no name lines. Stick with the big brands.

Larger fish are generally very smart. They'll try every trick in the
book to get loose. Bass will always try running for cover, snags,
branches, weeds, etc.

Within a second, or two, a bass that is side-hooked in the mouth (Which
is a thin papery area) can sometimes acquire a hole in the side of its
Jaw, the size of a .38 Caliber bullet. With the hook just hanging on in
a hole this large, without keeping the pressure on, and horsing the fish
to the boat/shore, you'll stand a good chance of losing him.

The art is many times, fighting a fish, not "playing him". By playing
large game fish, you'll give him too much opportunity to show you "his
bag of tricks". Yes, understand though certainly one cannot "horse" a
45 lb Musky to a boat when he is not "ready". The bottom line is
experience will always be the best teacher for any species you are
persuing. Mark

  #4  
Old July 30th, 2005, 04:11 PM
Ben S.
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Posts: n/a
Default

Excellent info, thank you!

-ben

Mark D wrote:
Hi, As the Previous poster has noted, a Dremel Tool would be good, and
probably the tools you mention also.

I've used a regular very fine Hook File over the years, and it will
sharpen virtually any Hook with just a few swipes. With a small manual
tool like this, you'll be able to always keep it handy in your Tackle
Box if needed, and won't ever have to worry about dead
batteries-electricity when you need it

What I recommend, is spend an hour, or two with all your favorite lures,
and sit down, and sharpen all of them. Any bum Treble hooks, replace
them with high quality hooks such as Eagle Claw-Gamatsu of similar size.

What is most important, is not so much the type, or brand of hook
Sharpener you use, but your own skill at attaining a sharp Hook.
Test them by lightly dragging-skimming the Hook's point across your
fingernail, or thumbnail. An ultra sharp hook will grab easily, and
immediately, regardless of size. A dull hook will skid, and not bite
into your nail.

Sharp Hooks are important for any type fish, but especially important
for freshwater fish like Muskie, Northern Pike, which have very hard,
boney mouths.

Yes, Hookset is very important also. For little fish, or fish that have
paper thin mouths like Crappie, a delicate hookset is needed.

But for larger fish, such as 5 lb+ Bass, large Northerns, and Muskies,
you really need to lay into them very hard, and need to ensure you have
the proper test line that can handle these torturous shock forces.

Many pros use what is called a "reverse Hookset".

This hookset is done with a snap, not just a gradual rearing back on the
rod. This hookset really drives the hooks home hard.

Distances are another consideration. Any line that has considerable
stretch will not be good for hooksets over a longer distance (lets say
50ft as an example) Most high quality Mono lines sold now days have
very little stretch to the monofilaments of old. Don't skimp with cheap
generic no name lines. Stick with the big brands.

Larger fish are generally very smart. They'll try every trick in the
book to get loose. Bass will always try running for cover, snags,
branches, weeds, etc.

Within a second, or two, a bass that is side-hooked in the mouth (Which
is a thin papery area) can sometimes acquire a hole in the side of its
Jaw, the size of a .38 Caliber bullet. With the hook just hanging on in
a hole this large, without keeping the pressure on, and horsing the fish
to the boat/shore, you'll stand a good chance of losing him.

The art is many times, fighting a fish, not "playing him". By playing
large game fish, you'll give him too much opportunity to show you "his
bag of tricks". Yes, understand though certainly one cannot "horse" a
45 lb Musky to a boat when he is not "ready". The bottom line is
experience will always be the best teacher for any species you are
persuing. Mark

 




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