Replacing Bunker Boards

I need to replace mine...

I have the carpet, but am wondering what kind of wood to buy. Pressure
treated - vs - Marine Grade? I figure that since most of the time they'll be
dry, that pressure treated would be better than marine... but, I've been
wrong once so I'll ask for your advice.

Also, is there a way to replace them with the boat still on the trailer?

Charles, bunk boards, or guide rails?

Ghide rails are often attached with carriage bolts, and unless you have
enough clearance for the bolts to back out far enough to clear the metal
supports, you'll have to remove the boat before you take the guide rails
off. It would be pretty difficult to replace bunk boards with the boat in
place.

Terry just replaced the guide rails on his trailer, and he put on a couple
coats of oil-based paint on the wood before wrapping it in carpet, which
might help retard rotting. When I replaced the guide rails on the ODF, I
just removed the carpet, replaced the 2x4s with regular pressure-treated
pine, wrapped them with the same carpet fastened in place with aluminum
staples.

Most treated lumber resists mold, mildew, rot and termites. Look around and
see if you can find a pre-treated wood product known as Thompsonized®
Wood -- yellow pine that has been specially pressurized to drive
waterproofing deep into the wood so that it ends up waterproof on the sides,
ends and all the way through.

The rubber backing on marine carpet traps moisture against the wood, and
eventually that promotes a recurrance of fungus and mildew. Since I replaced
only the wood core with conventional pressure-treated pine and reused the
original carpet, I treated the ODF's guide rail carpet liberally with bleach
(you might consider some other fungicide) to discourage further mildew.

Of course, the easiest thing to do would be to just drop the boat off at my
house for a week or two, and the job will be done while you're at work.

Joe
--------------------
"Charles Summers" wrote in message
. ..
I need to replace mine...

I have the carpet, but am wondering what kind of wood to buy. Pressure
treated - vs - Marine Grade? I figure that since most of the time they'll be
dry, that pressure treated would be better than marine... but, I've been
wrong once so I'll ask for your advice.

Also, is there a way to replace them with the boat still on the trailer?

Always thought they were called bunk boards?? Is this not right?

Very generous offer... I may take you up on it! LOL


"Joe Haubenreich" wrote in
message . ..
Charles, bunk boards, or guide rails?

Ghide rails are often attached with carriage bolts, and unless you have
enough clearance for the bolts to back out far enough to clear the metal
supports, you'll have to remove the boat before you take the guide rails
off. It would be pretty difficult to replace bunk boards with the boat in
place.

Terry just replaced the guide rails on his trailer, and he put on a couple
coats of oil-based paint on the wood before wrapping it in carpet, which
might help retard rotting. When I replaced the guide rails on the ODF, I
just removed the carpet, replaced the 2x4s with regular pressure-treated
pine, wrapped them with the same carpet fastened in place with aluminum
staples.

Most treated lumber resists mold, mildew, rot and termites. Look around
and
see if you can find a pre-treated wood product known as Thompsonized®
Wood -- yellow pine that has been specially pressurized to drive
waterproofing deep into the wood so that it ends up waterproof on the
sides,
ends and all the way through.

The rubber backing on marine carpet traps moisture against the wood, and
eventually that promotes a recurrance of fungus and mildew. Since I
replaced
only the wood core with conventional pressure-treated pine and reused the
original carpet, I treated the ODF's guide rail carpet liberally with
bleach
(you might consider some other fungicide) to discourage further mildew.

Of course, the easiest thing to do would be to just drop the boat off at
my
house for a week or two, and the job will be done while you're at work.

Joe
--------------------
"Charles Summers" wrote in message
. ..
I need to replace mine...

I have the carpet, but am wondering what kind of wood to buy. Pressure
treated - vs - Marine Grade? I figure that since most of the time they'll
be
dry, that pressure treated would be better than marine... but, I've been
wrong once so I'll ask for your advice.

Also, is there a way to replace them with the boat still on the trailer?

I've always referred to the boards along the bottom that supports the boat
as "bunk boards," and the side boards that help get the boat on the trailer
straight as "guide rails." That may not be technically correct, but so far
no one has beat me up for using the wrong terms.

Ever think about switching to plastic or fiberglass boards for the guide
rails?

Joe
-------------------------
"Charles B. Summers" wrote in message
. ..
Always thought they were called bunk boards?? Is this not right?

Very generous offer... I may take you up on it! LOL


"Joe Haubenreich" wrote in
message . ..
Charles, bunk boards, or guide rails?

Ghide rails are often attached with carriage bolts, and unless you have
enough clearance for the bolts to back out far enough to clear the metal
supports, you'll have to remove the boat before you take the guide rails
off. It would be pretty difficult to replace bunk boards with the boat in
place.

Terry just replaced the guide rails on his trailer, and he put on a couple
coats of oil-based paint on the wood before wrapping it in carpet, which
might help retard rotting. When I replaced the guide rails on the ODF, I
just removed the carpet, replaced the 2x4s with regular pressure-treated
pine, wrapped them with the same carpet fastened in place with aluminum
staples.

Most treated lumber resists mold, mildew, rot and termites. Look around
and
see if you can find a pre-treated wood product known as Thompsonized®
Wood -- yellow pine that has been specially pressurized to drive
waterproofing deep into the wood so that it ends up waterproof on the
sides,
ends and all the way through.

The rubber backing on marine carpet traps moisture against the wood, and
eventually that promotes a recurrance of fungus and mildew. Since I
replaced
only the wood core with conventional pressure-treated pine and reused the
original carpet, I treated the ODF's guide rail carpet liberally with
bleach
(you might consider some other fungicide) to discourage further mildew.

Of course, the easiest thing to do would be to just drop the boat off at
my
house for a week or two, and the job will be done while you're at work.

Joe
--------------------
"Charles Summers" wrote in message
. ..
I need to replace mine...

I have the carpet, but am wondering what kind of wood to buy. Pressure
treated - vs - Marine Grade? I figure that since most of the time they'll
be
dry, that pressure treated would be better than marine... but, I've been
wrong once so I'll ask for your advice.

Also, is there a way to replace them with the boat still on the trailer?

http://www.ultimatebunkboards.com/index.html
.....d'ja mean like this?

"Joe Haubenreich" wrote in
message . ..
I've always referred to the boards along the bottom that supports the boat
as "bunk boards," and the side boards that help get the boat on the
trailer
straight as "guide rails." That may not be technically correct, but so far
no one has beat me up for using the wrong terms.

Ever think about switching to plastic or fiberglass boards for the guide
rails?

Joe
-------------------------
"Charles B. Summers" wrote in message
. ..
Always thought they were called bunk boards?? Is this not right?

Very generous offer... I may take you up on it! LOL


"Joe Haubenreich" wrote in
message . ..
Charles, bunk boards, or guide rails?

Ghide rails are often attached with carriage bolts, and unless you have
enough clearance for the bolts to back out far enough to clear the metal
supports, you'll have to remove the boat before you take the guide rails
off. It would be pretty difficult to replace bunk boards with the boat in
place.

Terry just replaced the guide rails on his trailer, and he put on a
couple
coats of oil-based paint on the wood before wrapping it in carpet, which
might help retard rotting. When I replaced the guide rails on the ODF, I
just removed the carpet, replaced the 2x4s with regular pressure-treated
pine, wrapped them with the same carpet fastened in place with aluminum
staples.

Most treated lumber resists mold, mildew, rot and termites. Look around
and
see if you can find a pre-treated wood product known as Thompsonized®
Wood -- yellow pine that has been specially pressurized to drive
waterproofing deep into the wood so that it ends up waterproof on the
sides,
ends and all the way through.

The rubber backing on marine carpet traps moisture against the wood, and
eventually that promotes a recurrance of fungus and mildew. Since I
replaced
only the wood core with conventional pressure-treated pine and reused the
original carpet, I treated the ODF's guide rail carpet liberally with
bleach
(you might consider some other fungicide) to discourage further mildew.

Of course, the easiest thing to do would be to just drop the boat off at
my
house for a week or two, and the job will be done while you're at work.

Joe
--------------------
"Charles Summers" wrote in message
. ..
I need to replace mine...

I have the carpet, but am wondering what kind of wood to buy. Pressure
treated - vs - Marine Grade? I figure that since most of the time they'll
be
dry, that pressure treated would be better than marine... but, I've been
wrong once so I'll ask for your advice.

Also, is there a way to replace them with the boat still on the trailer?

Hey, Charles... there's your Nitro!

Joe

"Huck Palmatier" wrote in message
news:jP4rg.154348$k%3.88422@dukeread12...
http://www.ultimatebunkboards.com/index.html
.....d'ja mean like this?

Yeah... I saw that! That one is actually a little older than mine, but the
trailer is the same. Did you check out those prices??? $77 and $44 for what
I need. Is that $121.00??? Wish I would have seen these before ordering
carpet.


"Joe Haubenreich" wrote in
message . ..
Hey, Charles... there's your Nitro!

Joe

"Huck Palmatier" wrote in message
news:jP4rg.154348$k%3.88422@dukeread12...
http://www.ultimatebunkboards.com/index.html
....d'ja mean like this?

"Huck Palmatier" wrote in message
news:jP4rg.154348$k%3.88422@dukeread12...
http://www.ultimatebunkboards.com/index.html
....d'ja mean like this?

Sounds scary.

ALWAYS ... ALWAYS HAVE YOUR BOAT AT THE DESIRED DEPTH OF WATER BEFORE
UNHOOKING IT FROM THE WINCH. NEVER UNHOOK THE WINCH ON THE BOAT RAMP BEFORE
BACKING DOWN. THIS COULD LEAD TO YOUR BOAT SLIDING OFF THE TRAILER
PREMATURELY. ALWAYS HOOK YOUR BOAT TO THE WINCH BEFORE PULLING OUT OF THE
WATER.


--
Bob La Londe
Fishing Arizona & The Colorado River
Fishing Forums & Contests
http://www.YumaBassMan.com



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
.. .
"Huck Palmatier" wrote in message
news:jP4rg.154348$k%3.88422@dukeread12...
http://www.ultimatebunkboards.com/index.html
....d'ja mean like this?

Sounds scary.

ALWAYS ... ALWAYS HAVE YOUR BOAT AT THE DESIRED DEPTH OF WATER BEFORE
UNHOOKING IT FROM THE WINCH. NEVER UNHOOK THE WINCH ON THE BOAT RAMP
BEFORE BACKING DOWN. THIS COULD LEAD TO YOUR BOAT SLIDING OFF THE TRAILER
PREMATURELY. ALWAYS HOOK YOUR BOAT TO THE WINCH BEFORE PULLING OUT OF THE
WATER.

That's good advice for any boat on a trailer. I've seen it happen too many
times over the years.

A couple of years ago, two guys (looked to be in their low-20's), were
taking Daddy's inboard, fiberglass ski boat out of the water. I was waiting
in line as one drove the boat onto the trailer. The driver of the tow
vehicle never got out of the SUV and when he started the engine, I cautioned
both that the bow eye still wasn't hooked. They both rolled their eyes at
me as they pulled out and the boat driver said "We KNOW what we're doing."

The sound a 20' fiberglass ski boat makes as the prop punches through the
hull is truly an interesting one. As I backed my trailer around the
wreckage down to the landing, I saw the SUV driver on a cell phone,
explaining what just happened, evidently to Daddy. The other now
pasty-faced, no longer smart-a$$ed young man wandered around in a daze. As
I got my boat on the trailer and hooked the bow eye, I looked at him and
said, "I guess you meant to do that, huh?"

It takes less than 20 seconds to unhook or hook the bow eye with the boat in
the water. It's time well spent!
--
Steve @ OutdoorFrontiers
http://www.outdoorfrontiers.com
G & S Guide Service and Custom Rods
http://www.herefishyfishy.com