Broken Fly Rod

I broke my Temple Fork this weekend fishing with Bugcaster and his brother
on the North Santiam River. No not a large steelhead, just hung up on the
bottom nymphing. I realize that I broke the rod by not fully seating the
rod piece into the ferrule on this 4 piece rod. These multi-piece rods are
a wonderful development, but make sure you seat them well especially the
smallest piece, as I did not...

Chris Fanning

By the way, I caught a couple nice bows one 16" and fat as a football. Both
Randy and I experienced one the largest caddis hatches we have ever seen a
few weeks back (we floated about 12 miles and it was thick the whole
distance). The North Santiam River appears to be very healthy with lots of
aquatic insects and fat trout.

"Padishar Creel" wrote in message
...
I broke my Temple Fork this weekend fishing with Bugcaster and his brother
on the North Santiam River. No not a large steelhead, just hung up on the
bottom nymphing. I realize that I broke the rod by not fully seating the
rod piece into the ferrule on this 4 piece rod. These multi-piece rods
are
a wonderful development, but make sure you seat them well especially the
smallest piece, as I did not...

Chris Fanning

By the way, I caught a couple nice bows one 16" and fat as a football.
Both
Randy and I experienced one the largest caddis hatches we have ever seen a
few weeks back (we floated about 12 miles and it was thick the whole
distance). The North Santiam River appears to be very healthy with lots
of
aquatic insects and fat trout.

I just broke my Clearwater 4 wt. Saturday. I was stringing it up and the
top eyelet broke off with hardly any pressure whatsoever. I assume it was
barely hanging on, but when I took it to the local fly shop, one of the guys
there tells me that they get an inordinate number of people come in who
broke their rods stringing them up. I had laid the butt section on the
ground, doubled over the fly line and stringing it through the guides,
walking out to the tip...I don't think I was doing anything wrong.

The guy at the shop was simply going to glue the eyelet onto the remaining
section of the rod. In effect I will lose, what, maybe 1/2" or so from the
tip of my rod. I asked about how that might affect the performance of the
rod; first, he tells me that it will likely not be noticeable, but then
proceeds to tell me that Lefty Kreh always takes off the top bit of his rods
and claims they cast better. Anyone have any input on this?

"Tim Carter" wrote:

I just broke my Clearwater 4 wt. Saturday. I was stringing it up and
the
top eyelet broke off with hardly any pressure whatsoever. I assume it
was
barely hanging on, but when I took it to the local fly shop, one of
the guys
there tells me that they get an inordinate number of people come in who
broke their rods stringing them up. I had laid the butt section on the
ground, doubled over the fly line and stringing it through the guides,
walking out to the tip...I don't think I was doing anything wrong.

The guy at the shop was simply going to glue the eyelet onto the
remaining
section of the rod. In effect I will lose, what, maybe 1/2" or so
from the
tip of my rod. I asked about how that might affect the performance of
the
rod; first, he tells me that it will likely not be noticeable, but then
proceeds to tell me that Lefty Kreh always takes off the top bit of
his rods
and claims they cast better. Anyone have any input on this?


I called Loomis about my 10' 10wt when I broke 3 inches off it. When I
suggested a similar fix, they said it just wouldn't be the same and I
should send it in for a replacement. Half an inch doesn't sound like a
problem though. If that's Orvis, I'm sure they'll replace it if you
don't like the "shorter" custom version.

Chas
remove fly fish to reply
http://home.comcast.net/~chas.wade/w...ome.html-.html
San Juan Pictures at:
http://home.comcast.net/~chasepike/wsb/index.html

"Tim Carter" wrote in
:


"Padishar Creel" wrote in message
...
I broke my Temple Fork this weekend fishing with Bugcaster and his
brother on the North Santiam River. No not a large steelhead, just
hung up on the bottom nymphing. I realize that I broke the rod by
not fully seating the rod piece into the ferrule on this 4 piece rod.
These multi-piece rods
are
a wonderful development, but make sure you seat them well especially
the smallest piece, as I did not...

Chris Fanning

By the way, I caught a couple nice bows one 16" and fat as a
football.
Both
Randy and I experienced one the largest caddis hatches we have ever
seen a few weeks back (we floated about 12 miles and it was thick the
whole distance). The North Santiam River appears to be very healthy
with lots
of
aquatic insects and fat trout.

I just broke my Clearwater 4 wt. Saturday. I was stringing it up and
the top eyelet broke off with hardly any pressure whatsoever. I
assume it was barely hanging on, but when I took it to the local fly
shop, one of the guys there tells me that they get an inordinate
number of people come in who broke their rods stringing them up. I
had laid the butt section on the ground, doubled over the fly line and
stringing it through the guides, walking out to the tip...I don't
think I was doing anything wrong.

The guy at the shop was simply going to glue the eyelet onto the
remaining section of the rod. In effect I will lose, what, maybe 1/2"
or so from the tip of my rod. I asked about how that might affect the
performance of the rod; first, he tells me that it will likely not be
noticeable, but then proceeds to tell me that Lefty Kreh always takes
off the top bit of his rods and claims they cast better. Anyone have
any input on this?



If you can do without the rod for a few weeks, I'd work through the 25
year guarantee. Doesn't make a difference whether you did anything wrong
or not. For me, it also doesn't have anything do with whether the
performance was unchanged or not. It would be dissatisfying for me to
know that I was entitled to a warrantee replacement and didn't do it.

A good compromise, if you need the rod, would be to send the rod in for
repair/replace during the off season, and just replace the tiptop for
now.

First, put in a call to Orvis customer service, to make sure that they're
OK with this plan, and verify that the factory repair/replace wouldn't
simply glue on the same tiptop and make you wait 6 weeks for the
privilege. Then, before shipping it in, make sure to measure the tip
section so you can verify that its been replaced with an intact tip.

Scott

"Scott Seidman" wrote in message
. 1.4...
"Tim Carter" wrote in
:


"Padishar Creel" wrote in message
...
I broke my Temple Fork this weekend fishing with Bugcaster and his
brother on the North Santiam River. No not a large steelhead, just
hung up on the bottom nymphing. I realize that I broke the rod by
not fully seating the rod piece into the ferrule on this 4 piece rod.
These multi-piece rods
are
a wonderful development, but make sure you seat them well especially
the smallest piece, as I did not...

Chris Fanning

By the way, I caught a couple nice bows one 16" and fat as a
football.
Both
Randy and I experienced one the largest caddis hatches we have ever
seen a few weeks back (we floated about 12 miles and it was thick the
whole distance). The North Santiam River appears to be very healthy
with lots
of
aquatic insects and fat trout.

I just broke my Clearwater 4 wt. Saturday. I was stringing it up and
the top eyelet broke off with hardly any pressure whatsoever. I
assume it was barely hanging on, but when I took it to the local fly
shop, one of the guys there tells me that they get an inordinate
number of people come in who broke their rods stringing them up. I
had laid the butt section on the ground, doubled over the fly line and
stringing it through the guides, walking out to the tip...I don't
think I was doing anything wrong.

The guy at the shop was simply going to glue the eyelet onto the
remaining section of the rod. In effect I will lose, what, maybe 1/2"
or so from the tip of my rod. I asked about how that might affect the
performance of the rod; first, he tells me that it will likely not be
noticeable, but then proceeds to tell me that Lefty Kreh always takes
off the top bit of his rods and claims they cast better. Anyone have
any input on this?



If you can do without the rod for a few weeks, I'd work through the 25
year guarantee.

With Penn's right around the corner!?!?!?

Doesn't make a difference whether you did anything wrong
or not. For me, it also doesn't have anything do with whether the
performance was unchanged or not. It would be dissatisfying for me to
know that I was entitled to a warrantee replacement and didn't do it.

I see your point, especially since I paid for the warranty, but it would
also be dissatisfying to me to waste 6 weeks without the rod, waste time
shipping, etc. for negligible benefit.


A good compromise, if you need the rod, would be to send the rod in for
repair/replace during the off season, and just replace the tiptop for
now.

First, put in a call to Orvis customer service, to make sure that they're
OK with this plan, and verify that the factory repair/replace wouldn't
simply glue on the same tiptop and make you wait 6 weeks for the
privilege. Then, before shipping it in, make sure to measure the tip
section so you can verify that its been replaced with an intact tip.

Not a bad idea. Thanks Scott and all who replied.


Scott

The store (River City Fly Shop in Beaverton Oregon) where my wife bought the
Temple Fork rod offered to replace the rod with another new one while I
await for my replacement. When the replacement comes back I will give it to
him for his inventory. You can't beat that for service.

Chris

...

"Scott Seidman" wrote in message
. 1.4...
"Tim Carter" wrote in
:


"Padishar Creel" wrote in message
...
I broke my Temple Fork this weekend fishing with Bugcaster and his
brother on the North Santiam River. No not a large steelhead, just
hung up on the bottom nymphing. I realize that I broke the rod by
not fully seating the rod piece into the ferrule on this 4 piece rod.
These multi-piece rods
are
a wonderful development, but make sure you seat them well especially
the smallest piece, as I did not...

Chris Fanning

By the way, I caught a couple nice bows one 16" and fat as a
football.
Both
Randy and I experienced one the largest caddis hatches we have ever
seen a few weeks back (we floated about 12 miles and it was thick the
whole distance). The North Santiam River appears to be very healthy
with lots
of
aquatic insects and fat trout.

I just broke my Clearwater 4 wt. Saturday. I was stringing it up and
the top eyelet broke off with hardly any pressure whatsoever. I
assume it was barely hanging on, but when I took it to the local fly
shop, one of the guys there tells me that they get an inordinate
number of people come in who broke their rods stringing them up. I
had laid the butt section on the ground, doubled over the fly line and
stringing it through the guides, walking out to the tip...I don't
think I was doing anything wrong.

The guy at the shop was simply going to glue the eyelet onto the
remaining section of the rod. In effect I will lose, what, maybe 1/2"
or so from the tip of my rod. I asked about how that might affect the
performance of the rod; first, he tells me that it will likely not be
noticeable, but then proceeds to tell me that Lefty Kreh always takes
off the top bit of his rods and claims they cast better. Anyone have
any input on this?



If you can do without the rod for a few weeks, I'd work through the 25
year guarantee.

With Penn's right around the corner!?!?!?

Doesn't make a difference whether you did anything wrong
or not. For me, it also doesn't have anything do with whether the
performance was unchanged or not. It would be dissatisfying for me to
know that I was entitled to a warrantee replacement and didn't do it.

I see your point, especially since I paid for the warranty, but it would
also be dissatisfying to me to waste 6 weeks without the rod, waste time
shipping, etc. for negligible benefit.


A good compromise, if you need the rod, would be to send the rod in for
repair/replace during the off season, and just replace the tiptop for
now.

First, put in a call to Orvis customer service, to make sure that
they're
OK with this plan, and verify that the factory repair/replace wouldn't
simply glue on the same tiptop and make you wait 6 weeks for the
privilege. Then, before shipping it in, make sure to measure the tip
section so you can verify that its been replaced with an intact tip.

Not a bad idea. Thanks Scott and all who replied.


Scott

Padishar Creel wrote:
The store (River City Fly Shop in Beaverton Oregon) where my wife
bought the
Temple Fork rod offered to replace the rod with another new one while I
await for my replacement. When the replacement comes back I will
give it to
him for his inventory. You can't beat that for service.

Chris


Great store! With the competition out there it takes service like that
to stay in the game.

Willi

I have had like experience with River City. One of. if not the best shop
I have ever dealt with.
"Padishar Creel" wrote in message
...
The store (River City Fly Shop in Beaverton Oregon) where my wife bought
the
Temple Fork rod offered to replace the rod with another new one while I
await for my replacement. When the replacement comes back I will give it
to
him for his inventory. You can't beat that for service.

Chris

..

"Scott Seidman" wrote in message
. 1.4...
"Tim Carter" wrote in
:


"Padishar Creel" wrote in message
...
I broke my Temple Fork this weekend fishing with Bugcaster and his
brother on the North Santiam River. No not a large steelhead, just
hung up on the bottom nymphing. I realize that I broke the rod by
not fully seating the rod piece into the ferrule on this 4 piece
rod.
These multi-piece rods
are
a wonderful development, but make sure you seat them well
especially
the smallest piece, as I did not...

Chris Fanning

By the way, I caught a couple nice bows one 16" and fat as a
football.
Both
Randy and I experienced one the largest caddis hatches we have ever
seen a few weeks back (we floated about 12 miles and it was thick
the
whole distance). The North Santiam River appears to be very
healthy
with lots
of
aquatic insects and fat trout.

I just broke my Clearwater 4 wt. Saturday. I was stringing it up
and
the top eyelet broke off with hardly any pressure whatsoever. I
assume it was barely hanging on, but when I took it to the local fly
shop, one of the guys there tells me that they get an inordinate
number of people come in who broke their rods stringing them up. I
had laid the butt section on the ground, doubled over the fly line
and
stringing it through the guides, walking out to the tip...I don't
think I was doing anything wrong.

The guy at the shop was simply going to glue the eyelet onto the
remaining section of the rod. In effect I will lose, what, maybe
1/2"
or so from the tip of my rod. I asked about how that might affect
the
performance of the rod; first, he tells me that it will likely not
be
noticeable, but then proceeds to tell me that Lefty Kreh always
takes
off the top bit of his rods and claims they cast better. Anyone
have
any input on this?



If you can do without the rod for a few weeks, I'd work through the 25
year guarantee.

With Penn's right around the corner!?!?!?

Doesn't make a difference whether you did anything wrong
or not. For me, it also doesn't have anything do with whether the
performance was unchanged or not. It would be dissatisfying for me to
know that I was entitled to a warrantee replacement and didn't do it.

I see your point, especially since I paid for the warranty, but it would
also be dissatisfying to me to waste 6 weeks without the rod, waste time
shipping, etc. for negligible benefit.


A good compromise, if you need the rod, would be to send the rod in
for
repair/replace during the off season, and just replace the tiptop for
now.

First, put in a call to Orvis customer service, to make sure that
they're
OK with this plan, and verify that the factory repair/replace wouldn't
simply glue on the same tiptop and make you wait 6 weeks for the
privilege. Then, before shipping it in, make sure to measure the tip
section so you can verify that its been replaced with an intact tip.

Not a bad idea. Thanks Scott and all who replied.


Scott

I broke a rod around 10 years ago and talked to my Grandfather about
and he gave me a kinda mold. I put the rod parts in it put a laquer
like stuff. if filled in all the cracks and after few days made the 2
one again. It worked great and I still use the rod. Try a few repaire
shops I also know of people wraping 4/0 thread around the brakes and
then glue but it may not feel the same.