Attaching crankbaits

I am still looking for the ultimate way to change crankbaits quickly.

I have tried Duo-Lok snaps(they aren't centered that well and make the bait
run to the side) and Normans Speed Clips(I lost a spinnerbait because it
came off the clip). I now ALL my spinnerbaits directly but I was wondering
about crankbait changing.

Thanks

I have been using Duo- Lock snaps for years without a problem..Laker
makes a small simple snap that works well with crankbaits, they take
some getting use to, but they are secure and crankbaits run pretty
straight.. I found them in Wal Mart..





I fish therefore I lie

"SHRED©" wrote in message
news:migHb.31489$gN.9387@fed1read05...
I am still looking for the ultimate way to change crankbaits quickly.

I have tried Duo-Lok snaps(they aren't centered that well and make the
bait
run to the side) and Normans Speed Clips(I lost a spinnerbait because it
came off the clip). I now ALL my spinnerbaits directly but I was wondering
about crankbait changing.

I use the duo-lock snaps as well, but I tend to modify them ever so
slightly. I've put a pic over on ABPF. In a nutshell, the manufacturing
process is a little loose on the smaller snaps. The area where the snap
closes is usually at an angle, when it should be more perpendicular to the
flat of the body (creating a flat for the snap process). The stress caused
when you clip it shut on thta angle seems to make them less flat. By bending
this a little you can make the profile flatter. I also clamp down on the
bend where the snap is doubled back over the wire itself to create a loop.
This holds a little better, and also helps flatten the profile. The picture
might help a little...

When you get ready to put it on, over spread the wire a little. This
creates a better tension in the closed position, and makes it more difficult
to snap. This makes the snap less likely to spring open. To get it to
close, push upward on the bottom of the curve (where the split ring will
rest) as you're closing it, or close with your pliers.

Finally, *always* have the opening of the snap facing the rear of the bait.
That way, when you bump across things, the snap is much less likely to be
opened.

Using these little tricks, I've had good success with the snap. They only
take a couple seconds, and seem to make a difference. I use it on all of my
cranks and hard bodied topwaters...
--
Andrew Kidd
http://www.amiasoft.com/ - Software for the rest of us!
http://www.rofb.net/ - ROFB Newsgroup Home

Thanks for the help and pic Andrew!



Andrew Kidd wrote:
"SHRED©" wrote in message
news:migHb.31489$gN.9387@fed1read05...
I am still looking for the ultimate way to change crankbaits quickly.

I have tried Duo-Lok snaps(they aren't centered that well and make
the bait run to the side) and Normans Speed Clips(I lost a
spinnerbait because it came off the clip). I now ALL my spinnerbaits
directly but I was wondering about crankbait changing.

I use the duo-lock snaps as well, but I tend to modify them ever so
slightly. I've put a pic over on ABPF. In a nutshell, the
manufacturing process is a little loose on the smaller snaps. The
area where the snap closes is usually at an angle, when it should be
more perpendicular to the flat of the body (creating a flat for the
snap process). The stress caused when you clip it shut on thta angle
seems to make them less flat. By bending this a little you can make
the profile flatter. I also clamp down on the bend where the snap is
doubled back over the wire itself to create a loop. This holds a
little better, and also helps flatten the profile. The picture might
help a little...

When you get ready to put it on, over spread the wire a little. This
creates a better tension in the closed position, and makes it more
difficult to snap. This makes the snap less likely to spring open.
To get it to close, push upward on the bottom of the curve (where the
split ring will rest) as you're closing it, or close with your pliers.

Finally, *always* have the opening of the snap facing the rear of
the bait. That way, when you bump across things, the snap is much
less likely to be opened.

Using these little tricks, I've had good success with the snap. They
only take a couple seconds, and seem to make a difference. I use it
on all of my cranks and hard bodied topwaters...

Shred, just how long does it take you to change a bait?

I can do it in 10 seconds.

As far as I know adding a cliup or snap of any type can detract from a
crankbait's intended action.

Warren
--
http://www.fishingworld.com/MesaTackleSupply/
http://www.outdoorfrontiers.com http://www.secretweaponlures.com
http://www.warrenwolk.com/ http://www.tri-statebassmasters.com/

"SHRED©" wrote in message
news:_gpHb.31549$gN.8931@fed1read05...
Thanks for the help and pic Andrew!



Andrew Kidd wrote:
"SHRED©" wrote in message
news:migHb.31489$gN.9387@fed1read05...
I am still looking for the ultimate way to change crankbaits quickly.

I have tried Duo-Lok snaps(they aren't centered that well and make
the bait run to the side) and Normans Speed Clips(I lost a
spinnerbait because it came off the clip). I now ALL my spinnerbaits
directly but I was wondering about crankbait changing.

I use the duo-lock snaps as well, but I tend to modify them ever so
slightly. I've put a pic over on ABPF. In a nutshell, the
manufacturing process is a little loose on the smaller snaps. The
area where the snap closes is usually at an angle, when it should be
more perpendicular to the flat of the body (creating a flat for the
snap process). The stress caused when you clip it shut on thta angle
seems to make them less flat. By bending this a little you can make
the profile flatter. I also clamp down on the bend where the snap is
doubled back over the wire itself to create a loop. This holds a
little better, and also helps flatten the profile. The picture might
help a little...

When you get ready to put it on, over spread the wire a little. This
creates a better tension in the closed position, and makes it more
difficult to snap. This makes the snap less likely to spring open.
To get it to close, push upward on the bottom of the curve (where the
split ring will rest) as you're closing it, or close with your pliers.

Finally, *always* have the opening of the snap facing the rear of
the bait. That way, when you bump across things, the snap is much
less likely to be opened.

Using these little tricks, I've had good success with the snap. They
only take a couple seconds, and seem to make a difference. I use it
on all of my cranks and hard bodied topwaters...

Warren wrote: "As far as I know adding a cliup or snap of any type can
detract from a crankbait's intended action."

If the clip or snap replaces the original snap ring, in most cases it will
enhance or allow the crankbait to achieve its max action. A snap swivel
will kill a lures action.


--
Craig Baugher

go-bassn wrote:
Shred, just how long does it take you to change a bait?

I can do it in 10 seconds.

As far as I know adding a cliup or snap of any type can detract from a
crankbait's intended action.

Warren

Do you remove the split ring(if it has one) and tie a "Rapala" type knot to
allow movement of the bait or do you tie it tight?

I thought that removing the ring and tying directly, with a standard knot,
would inhibit the side to side movement.

FYI: I have removed the split rings and use a Duo-Lock. I was just looking
for a better snap because I use the small Duo-Lock snaps and they seem to
get out of shape and affect the lure's tracking.





"SHRED©" wrote in message
news:_gpHb.31549$gN.8931@fed1read05...
Thanks for the help and pic Andrew!



Andrew Kidd wrote:
"SHRED©" wrote in message
news:migHb.31489$gN.9387@fed1read05...
I am still looking for the ultimate way to change crankbaits
quickly.

I have tried Duo-Lok snaps(they aren't centered that well and make
the bait run to the side) and Normans Speed Clips(I lost a
spinnerbait because it came off the clip). I now ALL my
spinnerbaits directly but I was wondering about crankbait changing.

I use the duo-lock snaps as well, but I tend to modify them ever so
slightly. I've put a pic over on ABPF. In a nutshell, the
manufacturing process is a little loose on the smaller snaps. The
area where the snap closes is usually at an angle, when it should be
more perpendicular to the flat of the body (creating a flat for the
snap process). The stress caused when you clip it shut on thta
angle seems to make them less flat. By bending this a little you
can make the profile flatter. I also clamp down on the bend where
the snap is doubled back over the wire itself to create a loop.
This holds a little better, and also helps flatten the profile.
The picture might help a little...

When you get ready to put it on, over spread the wire a little.
This creates a better tension in the closed position, and makes it
more difficult to snap. This makes the snap less likely to spring
open. To get it to close, push upward on the bottom of the curve
(where the split ring will rest) as you're closing it, or close
with your pliers.

Finally, *always* have the opening of the snap facing the rear of
the bait. That way, when you bump across things, the snap is much
less likely to be opened.

Using these little tricks, I've had good success with the snap.
They only take a couple seconds, and seem to make a difference. I
use it on all of my cranks and hard bodied topwaters...

I get rid of the snap ring on all my crankbaits and use Norman Speed clips.
I have landed bass to 13lbs on them and drum to 30+.

They work great.

Carlos

I retie when changing crank baits. The knot would be less likely to slip under
this process. I suppose if i used snaps i may tend to change lures more often.
Is it necessary to use snaps?

SHRED© wrote in message
news:migHb.31489$gN.9387@fed1read05...

I have tried Duo-Lok snaps(they aren't centered that well and make the
bait
run to the side)

I've been using small duolocks for years and have never noticed any
problems.