Glue interfering with hooksets.

I was having trouble with horney toads balling up on the hook so I got
superglue (tried several, locktite gel is best IMO) But I notice that
my hook rate percentage has decreased. I think the bait being glued to
the hook interferes with the hook setting power. Also I had a line
break where some glue had dried. It seems like it weakened the line.
Whats your experience?

avid wrote:
I was having trouble with horney toads balling up on the hook so I got
superglue (tried several, locktite gel is best IMO) But I notice that
my hook rate percentage has decreased. I think the bait being glued to
the hook interferes with the hook setting power. Also I had a line
break where some glue had dried. It seems like it weakened the line.
Whats your experience?


superglue and its ilk do not harm monofilament, fluorocarbon or the
superlines (dyneema or spectra based fused or braided lines). I glue
almost every knot and haven't any breakoff due to it. In know a lot of
SW fly fishermen who fish for everything from stripers to tarpon and
glue every blood knot in their hand tied tapered leaders with no ill
effects.

As far as interfering with hooksets, it shouldn't. Then again, the toad
is notoriously tough to set the hook with to start with. Are you doing
the "texposed & tucked" routine, or actually burying the hook point in
the thick body?

Rich is right about hooksets on the Horny Toad, thick bodied rubber bait
will require a stiff rod and a solid hookset, MH if not a heavy rod, braided
line will also help, Try different hooks until you find one that works well.
I like the Matzuo sickle hooks or J bend hooks
Slid the frog up and down the the hook after you poke it through, this will
make it easier to get through the bait when you set the hook
"RichZ" wrote in message
...
avid wrote:
I was having trouble with horney toads balling up on the hook so I got
superglue (tried several, locktite gel is best IMO) But I notice that
my hook rate percentage has decreased. I think the bait being glued to
the hook interferes with the hook setting power. Also I had a line
break where some glue had dried. It seems like it weakened the line.
Whats your experience?


superglue and its ilk do not harm monofilament, fluorocarbon or the
superlines (dyneema or spectra based fused or braided lines). I glue
almost every knot and haven't any breakoff due to it. In know a lot of SW
fly fishermen who fish for everything from stripers to tarpon and glue
every blood knot in their hand tied tapered leaders with no ill effects.

As far as interfering with hooksets, it shouldn't. Then again, the toad is
notoriously tough to set the hook with to start with. Are you doing the
"texposed & tucked" routine, or actually burying the hook point in the
thick body?

Glad to hear that the line breakage had nothing to do with the glue. I
do find that it comes in handy at times. I only missed a couple of
fish with the h-toad glued, so I can't say that it is a pattern, but
even though it felt solid, the bait did not budge and the hook was
barely exposed. I use a texpose with the point lightly "tucked" back
into the body. I mentioned it because I usually have an excellent
hookup ratio with this bait. I use a St.Croix avid 6'6" heavy casting
rod spooled with 50lb power pro, I use an owner 5/0 zbend hook. This
combination has proven very effective, even on long casts. I'm sure
I'll get the hookups corrected, I'm just really glad to hear the glue
doesn't weaken the line.
Thanks for the feedback.

"avid" wrote in message
oups.com...
Glad to hear that the line breakage had nothing to do with the glue. I
do find that it comes in handy at times. I only missed a couple of
fish with the h-toad glued, so I can't say that it is a pattern, but
even though it felt solid, the bait did not budge and the hook was
barely exposed. I use a texpose with the point lightly "tucked" back
into the body. I mentioned it because I usually have an excellent
hookup ratio with this bait. I use a St.Croix avid 6'6" heavy casting
rod spooled with 50lb power pro, I use an owner 5/0 zbend hook. This
combination has proven very effective, even on long casts. I'm sure
I'll get the hookups corrected, I'm just really glad to hear the glue
doesn't weakn the line.
Thanks for the feedback.

I recently started using offset worm hooks for a lot of thinck body baits.
The bait doesn't seem to last as long, but I have been hooking up better
with it. A wide gap offset hook would probably be better, but most wide
gaps are not offset.
--
Bob La Londe

Win a Spinnerbait Tackle Kit

Spinnerbait Tips & Tricks Contest
Through the Month of September 2005

http://www.YumaBassMan.com

Bob La Londe wrote:
A wide gap offset hook would probably be better, but most wide
gaps are not offset.

I use wide gap offset Gamakatsu hooks - easy to find around here.

alwaysfishking wrote:
Rich is right about hooksets on the Horny Toad, thick bodied rubber bait
will require a stiff rod and a solid hookset, MH if not a heavy rod, braided
line will also help, Try different hooks until you find one that works well.
I like the Matzuo sickle hooks or J bend hooks
Slid the frog up and down the the hook after you poke it through, this will
make it easier to get through the bait when you set the hook
"RichZ" wrote in message
...

avid wrote:

I was having trouble with horney toads balling up on the hook so I got
superglue (tried several, locktite gel is best IMO) But I notice that
my hook rate percentage has decreased. I think the bait being glued to
the hook interferes with the hook setting power. Also I had a line
break where some glue had dried. It seems like it weakened the line.
Whats your experience?


superglue and its ilk do not harm monofilament, fluorocarbon or the
superlines (dyneema or spectra based fused or braided lines). I glue
almost every knot and haven't any breakoff due to it. In know a lot of SW
fly fishermen who fish for everything from stripers to tarpon and glue
every blood knot in their hand tied tapered leaders with no ill effects.

As far as interfering with hooksets, it shouldn't. Then again, the toad is
notoriously tough to set the hook with to start with. Are you doing the
"texposed & tucked" routine, or actually burying the hook point in the
thick body?



Those matzuo hooks are nice aren't they! I pour a ton of tube head
jigs, as well has round head jigs for both bass and steelhead, and use
all matzuo and daiichi hooks, but the matzuo give me a wider gap. Very cool

Chris

"RichZ" wrote in message
...

As far as interfering with hooksets, it shouldn't. Then again, the toad is
notoriously tough to set the hook with to start with. Are you doing the
"texposed & tucked" routine, or actually burying the hook point in the
thick body?

Jeez Rich, don't you read Bassmaster? Quoting Tommy Martin, "Hold your rod
tip high; let him explode on it. Then lower your rod tip, and let him pull
the slack out of your line. Let him run 2 to 3 feet on it before you set the
hook; you will never miss one. They won't turn it loose."

How about that: the first lure with a 100% catch-to-strike ratio.

Or maybe Tommy was sniffing some of avid's glue?

Bill


"Marty" wrote in message
...

"RichZ" wrote in message
...

As far as interfering with hooksets, it shouldn't. Then again, the toad
is notoriously tough to set the hook with to start with. Are you doing
the "texposed & tucked" routine, or actually burying the hook point in
the thick body?

Jeez Rich, don't you read Bassmaster? Quoting Tommy Martin, "Hold your rod
tip high; let him explode on it. Then lower your rod tip, and let him pull
the slack out of your line. Let him run 2 to 3 feet on it before you set
the hook; you will never miss one. They won't turn it loose."

How about that: the first lure with a 100% catch-to-strike ratio.