Saving antique silk line

I'd be astounded if this hasn't been hashed out here before, but in the
spirit of laziness and convenience, I'll just jump in with it.

A friend gave me an old Medalist reel with a bunch of line on it a couple of
years back. Its old silk line, probably from the 40s based on a thread last
year for dating old Plueger reels. The line is pretty gummy and brittle; a
small piece of the tippet broke off when I tried to unwind it a little, so I
don't want to just destroy it getting it off the reel, which I might never
use anyway. However, it might be interesting to save and restore the silk
line if there is a way to do it. Does anyone have any insights on how I
might soften and loosen the silk line, then restore it to use?

--riverman

Purchasing, Cleaning, Restoring, and Care of Old Silk Fly Lines
By Reed F. Curry
Purchasing Old Silk Fly Lines
The usual hunting grounds for the elusive silk line are flea markets,
antique shops, and the Internet. I have found restorable lines at all of
these places... and I have found lines that fell apart on the stream after
five casts.
When you find a used line you suspect is silk, look for the following:
1. White spots -- This indicates a fungal growth (read- "rot") and, while it
means that the line is silk, it also means that it is too weak to suffer
use.
2. A fine taper -- Most used lines will only have a good taper on one end.
This is still acceptable, and a shortened taper is an indication of a silk
line - nylon wouldn't require cutting back.
3. The ends - If you find a hardened knob at the end of the line, this is
melted nylon, pass on it. If the dealer is a generous soul, he may permit
you to hold a match to the end of the line. Nylon melts with a sweet odor,
silk gives off the smell of burning hair and leaves only an ash.
4. Color - Darkened spots may only be dirt. Most silk lines made prior to
1950 seem to be either a dark mahogany, or a dark green; perhaps because the
same line might be used for both wetfly and dryfly fishing, and angling
writers advised their readers to use a dark colored line when fishing wets
or streamers. Most old "silk" lines that are light colored are usually
nylon, but I have been fortunate enough to get some lines still in the box
from the sixties that were a light amber, so color is not a certain
identifier.
5.Texture - Avoid extremely dry lines. Sticky lines are fine, they can be
cleaned. Check for frayed areas and worn patches.
Pricing a line is easy. If it has passed all the aforementioned tests, and
assuming an average amount of wear, I would price it according to the
following:
Taper - If it is level an offer of five to ten dollars would be appropriate.
A double taper would rate twenty dollars, and if new (never out of the
ribbons), fifty to seventy dollars. A weight forward taper would be forty
dollars, and if new, fifty to ninety dollars.
Need - If I have a rod crying out for just this line, all reason is cast
aside.


Cleaning A Sticky Silk Fly Line
Try the following simple method:
Prepare a bucket (1+gallon) of warm (not hot) water with 1/3 box of baking
soda dissolved in it.
Put your line in loose loops in the bucket for 20 minutes.
Pull the line through a wet cloth held tightly and pass it into a bucket of
cold clear water.
The dirt and varnish will peel right off the line.
Repeat if necessary.
Applying new Finish
This is the easy way. It works quite well, really.
1. Clean line thoroughly (as above) and allow to dry.
2. Get two paper grocery bags and place them open on the floor before you.
3. Place line, loose, in Bag A.
4. Sitting comfortably in a chair with the bags before you, draw the line
from Bag A through a clean rag soaked in Tung oil/varnish mixture (I use
Formby's straight from the bottle), letting it fall loosely into Bag B.
5. Wait 2 - 4 hours, or until Tung oil is dry.
6. Rub line briskly through your hands (polishing it) as you draw it from
Bag B back to Bag A.
7. Repeat steps 4 - 6 above until a glossy coat has formed on the line. Do
not expect the line to be perfectly smooth, if the braid is the loose type
it may not be possible to get a smooth finish.
8. You may wish to remove any rough spots in the finish. This can be done by
pulling the line through some 0000 steel wool held with slight pressure in
your left hand. A safer method is to use a pad and talcim paowder. I usually
just let the action of casting wear the line smooth of varnish bumps.
Caring for a Restored Silk Line
The resins and modern plastics that comprised the Tung Oil/Varnish mix
should ensure that the line will not become sticky in the future. However,
certain conditions of care are still necessary for your silk line.
? Dry the line well after every use. Use a line drier or spool the line
loosely onto some newspapers, or the back seat of your car. A line drier is
optimum: it is quick, takes up little space, holds at least two lines, and,
most importantly doesn't put kinks in your line.
? Don't leave the line in great heat for long periods; e.g., the dashboard
of your car.
? Clean the line once a year. Use a mild dishwashing detergent in a large
bucket of warm, not hot, water. Run it through your hands as you pass it
into a bucket of clean water. Allow it to dry thoroughly.
? Grease the line properly before heading to the stream. Apply a thorough
application of Mucilin, then remove any excess as you wind it back onto the
reel. Too much Mucilin will gum up the guides, you only need a very thin
film.
? Never grease a wet line. This will trap water inside and invite mold.
? Carry a 6"x6" square of chamois. If you think your WF line is starting to
sink a little (after perhaps 6 hours of steady fishing) draw the line
through the chamois, then drape it over a bush to dry, put your feet in the
water, lean back on the grassy bank... and just relax. The fish will still
be there in half an hour.
? Put a large loop in your backing. Then, if your DT line starts to sink,
you can swap it end-for-end by just dropping the reel through the backing
loop. This loop also allows you to disconnect your reel from the line drier.
? Store your lines for the winter in a large flat box. Sprinkle liberal
amounts of unscented Talcum powder into the box, or coat each line with
Albolene.
? If you are on a fishing trip and run out of Mucilin, use the candle stub
you carry in your vest for tightening ferrules. Pull the line through the
wax. You will find the line floats fine, but is a bit stiff.
? If you want the line to sink, don't dress it with Mucilin, it will be an
excellent intermediate line.
? Most of all, enjoy the experience of a silk line. The bits of care I have
mentioned may seem tedious, but are no more than you would give any other
element of your kit.
© 1998 Reed F. Curry




"riverman" wrote in message
...
I'd be astounded if this hasn't been hashed out here before, but in the
spirit of laziness and convenience, I'll just jump in with it.

A friend gave me an old Medalist reel with a bunch of line on it a couple
of
years back. Its old silk line, probably from the 40s based on a thread
last
year for dating old Plueger reels. The line is pretty gummy and brittle; a
small piece of the tippet broke off when I tried to unwind it a little, so
I
don't want to just destroy it getting it off the reel, which I might never
use anyway. However, it might be interesting to save and restore the silk
line if there is a way to do it. Does anyone have any insights on how I
might soften and loosen the silk line, then restore it to use?

--riverman