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I just got back into fishing about 1 1/2 ago after a 10 year absence. All
the line back then was pretty well all mono except for a few of the newer lines I seen coming out. Now with mono, super mono, fireline, braid and florocarbons how do you all determine what and when to use them and whether to use them on baitcasters or spinning. I have all xps rods and Shimano reels beside some panfish outfits. I read one article online that this pro hated floro on baitcasters and only uses it on spinning and another was the oposite. I tried fireline and braid on a baitcaster but it would either snap at the knot or come untied. I have P-line floro 12 lb. on a spinning outfit but that stuff coils bad. Any and all info would be greatly appreciated. Mike -- JESUS IS LORD! |
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![]() "Mike" wrote in message ... I just got back into fishing about 1 1/2 ago after a 10 year absence. All the line back then was pretty well all mono except for a few of the newer lines I seen coming out. ***Yes, things sure have changed in the past decade, haven't they? I'm sure that others will have their opinions as to what is the best line to use. But here is my opinion as to how I spool my reels and the basis of theory behind my decisions. Heck, you'll probably even get some conflicting opinions here. Now with mono, super mono, fireline, braid and florocarbons how do you all determine what and when to use them and whether to use them on baitcasters or spinning. ***You can certainly spool all of your outfits with Berkely Trilene XL and it will get the job done. I don't like mono lines because I don't like the amount of stretch in the line and the subsequent loss of feel. With that being said, I prefer to use PowerPro on ALL of my various rods and reels. Rarely if ever do I feel that I'm not catching enough fish because the line can be seen by the fish. They simply don't have the brainpower or reasoning capability to wonder about line visibility. I like PowerPro because it has no stretch, the sensitivity of the line allows me to feel bites that would normally go undetected and on long casts or windy days, I can get tremendous hooksets. I also like to use PowerPro because we have a lot of pike and muskies swimming in the waters of northern Wisconsin. When using mono, I was losing far too many lures to bite-offs from these toothy critters. Since making the change, my lure loss rates have dropped tremendously. Do I still lose lures? Sure, but nowhere near the rate I used to. I have all xps rods and Shimano reels beside some panfish outfits. I read one article online that this pro hated floro on baitcasters and only uses it on spinning and another was the oposite. I tried fireline and braid on a baitcaster but it would either snap at the knot or come untied. I have P-line floro 12 lb. on a spinning outfit but that stuff coils bad. ***I've tried various flourocarbon lines and have not liked them either. They were either too stiff and coiled badly or they broke far too easily. It would be interesting to know what breaking strength line you were using and what knots that the line snapped or became untied. When using spinning gear, I use either 8 or 10 pound test. On my bass baitcasting gear I use 30 or 50 pound and on my muskie tackle, 65, 80 and 100 pound test gets used. It is important to look at line diameter too when choosing your line and to properly put the line on the reel. 30 pound test PowerPro is the same diameter (if I remember correctly) to 10 pound mono. Anything with a smaller diameter will "cut down" into the line beneath it on the spool, causing the lure to stop violently and break the line. That's why I don't use anything less than 30 pound on a baitcaster. In order to properly put the line on the reel, you must either use a Uni-Uni knot to attach the braid to some monofilament backing or after you tie the line to the spool, secure it with a small piece of electrical tape in order to keep the line from slipping on the spool Braids are very hard and slippery and unless mono backing is used or the line secured to the spool, it will rotate on the spool leaving you wondering what's wrong with your reel's drag. This same hardness and slipperiness means that the knots you use to attach the lure must be tied somewhat differently than with mono. The Palomar knot is a great one to use with smaller lures and hooks. I use the Improved Clinch knot with seven wraps of the tag end around the mainline for the majority of my fishing. Neither of these knots have slipped, even when putting pressure on a good bass or a heavy muskie. Also, when you do spool your reels with braid, make sure that there is a LOT of tension on the line as it's spooled. You have to insure that the line is well packed on the spool or that "cut down" that I talked about earlier will occur on a fairly regular basis. Periodically, about twice a season I will tie on a large lipped, deep diving crankbait and cast it as far as I can. Then, I'll get on the trolling motor or start the outboard and drive, letting all the line on the spool run out. Then, while the boat is still idling forward, I'll crank the lure back in to the boat. This respools and repacks the line on the reel quite nicely and occasionally I pick up a nice fish in the process. Does this help? -- Steve @ OutdoorFrontiers http://www.outdoorfrontiers.com G & S Guide Service and Custom Rods http://www.herefishyfishy.com Any and all info would be greatly appreciated. Mike -- JESUS IS LORD! |
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