Your nuts are in the mail

Chestnuts were placed in the tender care of the U.S. postal service
this morning. Should be arriving at their intended new homes in a
coupleathree days.

Each recipient was sent about twenty seeds, approximately half of
which are already sprouted. They should be planted as soon as is
possible. Plant in 8 inch pots if weather is still on the wintry side
or if you wish to delay placing in what will become their permanent
homes. They must, at all costs, be protected from late season frost.
They MUST also be COMPLETELY protected from the depradations of
squirrels, deer, and other rodents. Ask anyone who got some last
year.

COMPLETELY means that there remains absolutely no possibility that
squirrels, in particular, can get at them for at least one full year,
as the seed is remarkably persistent; it will remain as an
irresistible attractant to rodents throughout the first growing season
and beyond.

American chestnut seeds vaguely resemble a sort of flattened acorn. A
typical burr will contain three seeds aligned in a row. The two
outside seeds will be flattened on one side, the center one on both.
Seeds should be planted as they would lie if tossed onto a tabletop,
which is to say that they should lie in the soil on one of the
flattened faces.....on their sides, as it were. This will seem like
an unnatural act because the root radical actually emerges from the
pointed end. It looks like it ought to be planted with that end
down. But the emerging radical splits into the proto-root and the
proto-stem. Horizontal is the right way. It should be covered by
about an inch of loose rich soil or potting mix and kept well
watered.....the soil should remain very moist to the touch. Treat
unsprouted seeds just like those that have already sprouted.
Germination rates are very high. Odds are that nearly all of them
will eventually sprout.

Full sun is best, though chestnuts will tolerate a good deal of
shade. In either case, the seedlings MUST be watered regularly and
frequently, depending on the nature of the soil and evaporation. Do
not let them get dry for the first two growing seasons. After that
they can be left to their own devices assuming they are not subjected
to especially arid conditions.

The growth rate of American chestnut is, under ideal conditions,
nothing short of phenomenal. A two year old seedling may be two feet
tall and after that it may put on three, four or even five feet per
year for several years.....once again, under ideal conditions. We
have trees here that are six years old and twelve to fifteen feet tall
and 4 inches dbh.

And did I mention that they MUST be protected, far beyond what any
normal person would think is reasonable, from the ****ing squirrels?*

giles
*"hardware cloth", quarter inch mesh steel wire is best, and don't
neglect to close the top.

On May 3, 3:10*pm, Giles wrote:
Chestnuts were placed in the tender care of the U.S. postal service
this morning. *Should be arriving at their intended new homes in a
coupleathree days.

Each recipient was sent about twenty seeds, approximately half of
which are already sprouted. *They should be planted as soon as is
possible. *Plant in 8 inch pots if weather is still on the wintry side
or if you wish to delay placing in what will become their permanent
homes. *They must, at all costs, be protected from late season frost.
They MUST also be COMPLETELY protected from the depradations of
squirrels, deer, and other rodents. *Ask anyone who got some last
year.

COMPLETELY means that there remains absolutely no possibility that
squirrels, in particular, can get at them for at least one full year,
as the seed is remarkably persistent; it will remain as an
irresistible attractant to rodents throughout the first growing season
and beyond.

American chestnut seeds vaguely resemble a sort of flattened acorn. *A
typical burr will contain three seeds aligned in a row. *The two
outside seeds will be flattened on one side, the center one on both.
Seeds should be planted as they would lie if tossed onto a tabletop,
which is to say that they should lie in the soil on one of the
flattened faces.....on their sides, as it were. *This will seem like
an unnatural act because the root radical actually emerges from the
pointed end. *It looks like it ought to be planted with that end
down. *But the emerging radical splits into the proto-root and the
proto-stem. *Horizontal is the right way. *It should be covered by
about an inch of loose rich soil or potting mix and kept well
watered.....the soil should remain very moist to the touch. *Treat
unsprouted seeds just like those that have already sprouted.
Germination rates are very high. *Odds are that nearly all of them
will eventually sprout.

Full sun is best, though chestnuts will tolerate a good deal of
shade. *In either case, the seedlings MUST be watered regularly and
frequently, depending on the nature of the soil and evaporation. *Do
not let them get dry for the first two growing seasons. *After that
they can be left to their own devices assuming they are not subjected
to especially arid conditions.

The growth rate of American chestnut is, under ideal conditions,
nothing short of phenomenal. *A two year old seedling may be two feet
tall and after that it may put on three, four or even five feet per
year for several years.....once again, under ideal conditions. *We
have trees here that are six years old and twelve to fifteen feet tall
and 4 inches dbh.

And did I mention that they MUST be protected, far beyond what any
normal person would think is reasonable, from the ****ing squirrels?*

giles
*"hardware cloth", quarter inch mesh steel wire is best, and don't
neglect to close the top.

Have hardware cloth, snips and 4 of these
http://www.pcworld.com/article/20102...the_dmz.ht ml
Software is geared toward furry critters (keeps them damn hippies out
too).
Frank Reid

On May 3, 3:10*pm, Giles wrote:
Chestnuts were placed in the tender care of the U.S. postal service
this morning. *Should be arriving at their intended new homes in a
coupleathree days.

Each recipient was sent about twenty seeds, approximately half of
which are already sprouted. *They should be planted as soon as is
possible. *Plant in 8 inch pots if weather is still on the wintry side
or if you wish to delay placing in what will become their permanent
homes. *They must, at all costs, be protected from late season frost.
They MUST also be COMPLETELY protected from the depradations of
squirrels, deer, and other rodents. *Ask anyone who got some last
year.

COMPLETELY means that there remains absolutely no possibility that
squirrels, in particular, can get at them for at least one full year,
as the seed is remarkably persistent; it will remain as an
irresistible attractant to rodents throughout the first growing season
and beyond.

American chestnut seeds vaguely resemble a sort of flattened acorn. *A
typical burr will contain three seeds aligned in a row. *The two
outside seeds will be flattened on one side, the center one on both.
Seeds should be planted as they would lie if tossed onto a tabletop,
which is to say that they should lie in the soil on one of the
flattened faces.....on their sides, as it were. *This will seem like
an unnatural act because the root radical actually emerges from the
pointed end. *It looks like it ought to be planted with that end
down. *But the emerging radical splits into the proto-root and the
proto-stem. *Horizontal is the right way. *It should be covered by
about an inch of loose rich soil or potting mix and kept well
watered.....the soil should remain very moist to the touch. *Treat
unsprouted seeds just like those that have already sprouted.
Germination rates are very high. *Odds are that nearly all of them
will eventually sprout.

Full sun is best, though chestnuts will tolerate a good deal of
shade. *In either case, the seedlings MUST be watered regularly and
frequently, depending on the nature of the soil and evaporation. *Do
not let them get dry for the first two growing seasons. *After that
they can be left to their own devices assuming they are not subjected
to especially arid conditions.

The growth rate of American chestnut is, under ideal conditions,
nothing short of phenomenal. *A two year old seedling may be two feet
tall and after that it may put on three, four or even five feet per
year for several years.....once again, under ideal conditions. *We
have trees here that are six years old and twelve to fifteen feet tall
and 4 inches dbh.

And did I mention that they MUST be protected, far beyond what any
normal person would think is reasonable, from the ****ing squirrels?*

giles
*"hardware cloth", quarter inch mesh steel wire is best, and don't
neglect to close the top.

'bout how far apart?
Frank Reid

On May 4, 8:44*pm, Frank Reid © 2010 wrote:

'bout how far apart?
Frank Reid

No more than a hundred feet. Chestnuts rely on insect
pollinators.....plant them too far apart and you get no seed. 50-60
feet is better. Still allows plenty of room for each individual tree
to grow. But keep in mind that not every tree will necessarily
survive to adulthood. Tree farmers usually plant more trees closer
together and then "thin" (cull) to allow the best specimens to
prosper. You've got about twenty seeds coming. Unless you're
planning a large grove you should be able to plant relatively close
and then thin to final specs. And if you ARE planning a large grove
(or a small forest) I can send more seed next year. I can also very
likely get my hands on some Chinese chestnuts.....you can start your
own hybridizing project.

Good luck!

giles

On May 4, 8:58*pm, Giles wrote:
On May 4, 8:44*pm, Frank Reid © 2010 wrote:

'bout how far apart?
Frank Reid

No more than a hundred feet. *Chestnuts rely on insect
pollinators.....plant them too far apart and you get no seed. *50-60
feet is better. *Still allows plenty of room for each individual tree
to grow. *But keep in mind that not every tree will necessarily
survive to adulthood. *Tree farmers usually plant more trees closer
together and then "thin" (cull) to allow the best specimens to
prosper. *You've got about twenty seeds coming. *Unless you're
planning a large grove you should be able to plant relatively close
and then thin to final specs. *And if you ARE planning a large grove
(or a small forest) I can send more seed next year. *I can also very
likely get my hands on some Chinese chestnuts.....you can start your
own hybridizing project.

Good luck!

giles

Got my nuts. Will start sticking them in a bunch of 8" pots.
THANK YOU!
Frank Reid

Frank Reid © 2010 wrote:
On May 4, 8:58 pm, Giles wrote:
On May 4, 8:44 pm, Frank Reid © 2010 wrote:

'bout how far apart?
Frank Reid
No more than a hundred feet. Chestnuts rely on insect
pollinators.....plant them too far apart and you get no seed. 50-60
feet is better. Still allows plenty of room for each individual tree
to grow. But keep in mind that not every tree will necessarily
survive to adulthood. Tree farmers usually plant more trees closer
together and then "thin" (cull) to allow the best specimens to
prosper. You've got about twenty seeds coming. Unless you're
planning a large grove you should be able to plant relatively close
and then thin to final specs. And if you ARE planning a large grove
(or a small forest) I can send more seed next year. I can also very
likely get my hands on some Chinese chestnuts.....you can start your
own hybridizing project.

Good luck!

giles

Got my nuts. Will start sticking them in a bunch of 8" pots.
THANK YOU!
Frank Reid

Got mine! Thanks.

Russell

Who might just make a forest in his backyard.

On 5/5/2011 5:15 PM, Frank Reid © 2010 wrote:

.........
............
...........
...........

Whew. Read the subject line and thought it was an email from an ex.

- JR

On May 11, 12:34*am, JR wrote:
On 5/5/2011 5:15 PM, Frank Reid © 2010 wrote:



.........
............
...........
...........

Whew. *Read the subject line and thought it was an email from an ex.

- JR

I have long felt that getting the audience's attention is the first
priority.

The aftermath.....well, that's the EMTs' reponsibility.

giles

"JR" wrote in message
...
On 5/5/2011 5:15 PM, Frank Reid © 2010 wrote:

.........
............
...........
...........

Whew. Read the subject line and thought it was an email from an ex.

hilarious. and rife with realistic possibility...

yfitons
wayno

Giles wrote in news:81e1d21f-560f-4ee5-a73c-
:

On May 4, 8:44*pm, Frank Reid © 2010 wrote:

'bout how far apart?
Frank Reid

No more than a hundred feet. Chestnuts rely on insect
pollinators.....plant them too far apart and you get no seed. 50-60
feet is better. Still allows plenty of room for each individual tree
to grow. But keep in mind that not every tree will necessarily
survive to adulthood. Tree farmers usually plant more trees closer
together and then "thin" (cull) to allow the best specimens to
prosper. You've got about twenty seeds coming. Unless you're
planning a large grove you should be able to plant relatively close
and then thin to final specs. And if you ARE planning a large grove
(or a small forest) I can send more seed next year. I can also very
likely get my hands on some Chinese chestnuts.....you can start your
own hybridizing project.

Good luck!

giles


Moron!!!